bignev

Yes indeed. My subaru outback gearbox does have a drain plug. And a spin on type fluid filter, just like an oil filter. But that's located in the wing behind the battery..... pros and cons hey! But it is a doddle to do the whole job. Not like the transmission pan on my GV, got it a bit more controlled the 2nd time I did it by leaving several bolts in so it could only pop off a little, and in the direction I wanted!

Hi there. If it's been unused and flat battery for 2 years it's going to be a sod to get sorted. The start then stop on my Grand Voyager is a condition of the immobiliser key nit being recognised. If it won't crank at all now is it that the battery is flat? And - always bether to post in the vehicle assistance sections as not all our members check all the areas of the site !

Hi there and welcome! It's usually better to post in the vehicle assistance sections as not all our members check all the areas! However, in my own opinion, due to the large amount of stuff I'm hearing about in the last few years, on all manner of cars, I would personally be sorting out a way to keep 12volts on while the batteries are swapped, to avoid "spiking" any electronics. I've not had a problem yet on my Grand Voyager or my 2005 Subaru outback, but it seems it's becoming far more common and likely!

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

Hi there and welcome! However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area! Good Luck! Nev

On the air con, depending if you have the auto or manual control type, if the airflow is directed to the windscreen the AC will switch on to aid demisting, need it or not. Not just when it's all the way to the screen either, a couple of notches away from all the way round and it;s still on. If you have an owners handbook it's in there somewhere. However, mine does it in any position now, unless I pull the relay like you. So of course because it's not used much it's lost gas again from having it sorted last year, when will I learn My folding mirrors decide where they park, not at all in the right spot, usually way too far forward, so now they are held in the correct position with black insulation tape, I gave up on them!

Well then, it's on the options list, as I've just measured ours and it's 3 ft 1.5 inches!!

@@simonguvna I've just read your other post, so now I know its an electric chair for your wife! If she travels in it I don't think the standard Voyager is suitable as there aren't the tie points for securing the chair for travelling. But if she is able to transfer over to the car seat it could be, standard or stow n go, either of the able bodied adults can get into the back row comfortably! If she doesn't travel in it, then the stow n go would probably be the answer, 5 good seats and big flat store at the back for the chair and ramp, will need some sort of adapter to attach the ramp when loading up though!! Mum did have an electric scooter for a while and it fitted in ours a doddle, but I was strong enough to lift it in there! Also my wife just reminded me that the seats were quite high for mum too, so that is a factor for you to consider. As she got less able it became a struggle for her to get in, even with help. On mine the maximum clear sliding door width is 700mm.

It depends on what the wheelchair design is. We had 2 of us, my twin girls, and my mother in law with folding wheelchair. If it's a motorised chair then you'll need a proper adapted one, we had a Sedona for a while to get 4 seats plus the chair to travel in. But before that the Voyager worked well with a folding chair, on the stow n go the back bench is split so there's a good load area plus seat for one of the adults.

You don't need to take the panel off, just gently but firmly pull the carpet out from under it, after removing the back edge trim. That takes a very firm tug as it's fixed with push in clips, but check the centre in case I forgot about any screws next to the latch!

If it's a stow n go version lift the carpet on the right hand side of the rear well and find the washer tube, apparently fairly common for the tube connector to come apart there - mine had - so no fluid to the screen but the motor worked and the carpet got wet !! Of course there may be a joint there on the normal version too, but I don't know about that!

Ah, so it was NOT working. The dealer merely said it was, and clearly couldn't have been as your garage found the fault. It however now does as they have tested it. So, now you do need the auto locksmith to code it to your car!! Yes that's the same as my keys / fobs - separate items.

Hi there! So a few questions rather than answers: Has it ever worked? If not then you need an auto locksmith to make it talk to the car. Even a second hand one can be matched, I had it done. Do you have another fob that does work? If so, back to the comment above. But - you say it doesn't work the central locking - does it operate the sliding doors and boot? Have you tried disconnecting the battery for half an hour to give the ECU and BCM (Body Control Module) a reset? My fobs do have the panic button, and it works, but I've got pattern cases and they came with the button, I can't remember if the original didn't it was 4 years ago I swapped them after the markings wore off the 1st ones. So I got a couple of extras from China, cheap as you like as it didn't matter they took 6 weeks to get here.

Sounds like you may have averted a potential disaster with that gearbox !! Yet another owner who never checked under the bonnet hey! Sadly all too much the norm nowadays, if there isn't something digital electronic to tell them about it then it isn't happening! I'll stay off my soap box regarding modern "driving aids"........

Cracking job! The ones I got ( and several others for various other cars) came with the info that if they didn't work, turn them round in the holder. They are polarity sensitive! It's 50 50 if they work first time. But you tried that and it didn't work until you connected it directly. Very wierd!! Bet they're nice and bright hey!

Hi Richard! No, there's never been any problems with the LED's for side lights, or the cheap aftermarket HID Xenons I swapped in for the headlight low beams. The light switch on the earlier models 2001 up to 2005 were indeed backlit illuminated, I had 2 of them, but not our later ones. It annoyed me enough in the early months of ownership of this one that I sourced the older version with the fittings and bulbs and figured out which wire it needed to link across to light it up. The previous model also had 2 lights on each of the vanity mirrors in the sun visor, that were dimmable. I changed them too.

Hi there! Well, if you check how active the vehicle assistance section is for Generation 4, it'll give you a clue on the potential expense and mither of ownership if you don't get a good one!

I've done mine a couple of times, replaced with LED's now, and if I remember correctly it's a small twist then pull, the W5W type.

Hi there! You've got to be on a wind up with that dealer name....... Anyhow, I've not yet had to do a stat on any of the 3 - 3.3 models we've had, so don't have personal experience on this. As you say, a quick ebay search results in stats that give a 46mm diameter, not smaller. But if you check on rockauto.com in the USA they are listed at 1.89", which is 48mm, just to add to the confusion. On here they do show a very specific looking metal gasket with a rubber inner. I am quite concerned at the curve on that plate too, did you have to scrape any amount of sealant off when you removed it? Just a thought, in case it was previously damaged and had been made up with RTV stuff. In which case that could be what will have to happen again, unless you get a new one, rockauto again from around £8 with that gasket, plus lots of carriage to France of course! Or - was there a rubber ring around the original thermostat, I've seen that on a few cars, that then does the sealing to both sides of the housings? And it's better to post in the "Vehicle assistance" sections, not all members look in all of the areas! Keep us informed! Cheers Nev

Hi there! Yep those gas struts have a hard job holding that rear lid open on these things hey! From my experience on a Ford Galaxy, and there are a LOT more of them about than Voyagers aren't there, I had 2 sets of them from the interweb that had firstly the wrong end connections, then secondly were the wrong length. So I took one off and went into my local autofactors, "here you go mate" in 2 minutes, cost a tenner more but I actually got them sorted. My suggestion in this instance would be local autofactors, and if it's wrong it's nice and easy to chuck it back over the counter. Lots of stuff I've bought from all over, including Rockauto in the USA, but sometimes it's just not worth the mither! The door window switch is weird though, sounds like a dodgy connection disturbed when you put the cover back on. Mine doesn't have a number plate holder, so sorry no input on that from me!

True, it's not nice working outside at all right now! I got mine (twice) direct from an ebay supplier, just had a quick search on ebay and the fluid is available from various places in the UK. But not the filter at the minute. But it is expensive yes, I think after a few weeks of searching I paid in the mid 50's with a filter. I only did it the following year as well because it had never been done and we were up to about 110,000 miles. I believe that some "individual order" European supplies are being slapped with "admin fees" by a few couriers for automated payments to our tax office for the UK VAT, and it can add a LOT to the price. I got an idler bearing for my Subaru Outback a couple of years ago from outside of the EU and the carrier, DHL, charged around £15 fee (plus vat!) to pay the VAT, the bearing was less than that!! It turned out I could buy the whole tensioner (to take the pulley and bearing off as it's the same pulley as the idler) in the UK for less than I paid for the bearing, delivery, and the DHL fee, very naffed off at that.

And the level is best final checked when it's hot. The cold reading is approximate.

Please only use Mopar ATF+4 genuine stuff. You've had it from new so that's definitely what's in there, DO NOT use anything else. If you can at this point I would do a filter change too, which is in the transmission pan, a little bit of a pain to drop off but worth it. Have a big bowl under it to catch the fluid when the pan pops off, mine came out with a bit of a surprise rate when it let go! Carefully use a liquid gasket not the rubber the filter will come with.