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  1. Hi Richard, Welcome! Others will probably stop by and help, hopefully my memory of these beasts will help, sadly I no longer have my own. So this is one that has cropped up from time to time quite often. It's also a problem I had on my old CGV (The second one I owned). Same thing, it's a warm start problem and it's very repeatable as you describe. My suspicion though is it was mechanical. When hot there is expansion in most components, and in my thinking it's down to poor compression why it won't start. It just turns over and over, it occasionally tries to catch but then dies (If you listen carefully to the engine you can hear it almost catch then immediately fail and back to starter motor just spinning the engine). If I still had mine I'd be starting to look at the cylinder head gasket or even cylinder rings getting worn and loosing compression when hot. Once engine is running it sort of self-heals as it's not as noticeable but when starting that's when you need it most. BUT after all that, sensors also deteriorate when hot so your thinking of swapping sensors is logical. My first thoughts would be the PRV on end of the diesel rail, the crank and speed sensors too, one by one is sensible here. All of those can affect the startup and are also sensors very prone to temperature related failures. On the radio/CD you should be fine fitting. You'll need the code from the old one though. The codes are normally stored in the ECU and 'pair' when they connect up, fitting a different unit I suspect will trigger the need to enter the code, which if you don't have the original manual/code doc for the donor car might not work, but I'd say give it a go. I recall that relay you mention but cannot for the life of me remember it's function. I'll see if I can find out! Cheers, Andy
    2 points
  2. Sentech

    Limp Mode

    Long story, 2.8 CRD 2007, New head gasket (correct size and properly torqued), eight valve lifters, new top end gasket set, new water pump, timing belt and pulleys, fitted at 90 degrees after TDC using camshaft and crankshaft locking pins. Now the sad part: First start ok ....... will not accelerate beyond 2500 rpm. Stripped it it all down again (except the head gasket), reassembled ............. same story The damn thing is in "Limp Mode" PNDR123 all have little green squares indicating this fact. The engine work was done in situ and I didn't touch the gearbox. ANY IDEAS ????
    1 point
  3. ben

    Forum Upgrade

    I know it's been a while (a very long while) - but I got hold of the latest software version, so here you all go!
    1 point
  4. Hi everyone. I'm a lifetime fan of American cars and owned many. For me, the GV is the best MPV even though it's an 04, I've owned it from new and it has served me well. JollyJack (JJ)
    1 point
  5. ferrysider

    'o7 Crossfire Roadster

    Hello Everyone, As of yesterday, the proud owner of a Crossfire! Desperate to get the top down but it hasn't stopped raining all day! :-( Happy to be part of the forum - have waited years to get this car! Bodywork is lovely for its age, but I hope it is as good under the bonnet! Got a three month warranty, but guarantee something will go wrong after three months and one day. :-) Ferrysider.
    1 point
  6. RichardM

    Alternator Help

    Just an update on that £80.00 alternator I bought from ebay. It's great. Waited till now 'cause I wanted to make sure it lasted more than a couple of days. It works great, charges at 14.2 when the battery's down at 12.2 volts before starting ( I do leave her for a few days sometimes), then goes down as the battery charges. (I do not have the temp mod). The advert says 160Amp which concerned me originally but it certainly does the job and doesn't appear to be overcharging the battery (Optima Redtop [AGM]). Just an adjunct on the battery. When I bought the car the battery wasn't charging properly so bought a new (as above) battery. With the poor starting also bought one of these magic chargers that repairs duff batteries. Plugged it into the old battery and after a couple of days and a couple of repair mode attempts Voila! battery was back up to charge and holding charge. -> It now sits in the old girl with the new one powering the bought for spares one until I get around to changing them back.
    1 point
  7. RichardM

    Limp Mode

    Assuming there are no knocks on running this is probably an electrical fault.Check for shorts or o/c. There's an awful lot of cables that go across the head, including the accelerator sensor cable. Suggest check if any cables have been caught during the strip, rebuild. I had an intermittent short on this particular cable and it caused all PNDR123 to light up. A short on cable can cause strange things to happen on this vehicle& prove a bugger to track down.
    1 point
  8. Thanks or the reply Andy, the Pressure Relief Valve was changed some months ago before finding the original cold or warm no go was caused by the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing had a split diaphragm. Any idea how accessible the crank and speed sensors are AND.. why does it kick off straight away when wafted with some Quick-Start ? dur...............
    1 point
  9. Unfortunately I'm no draughtsman, and it's in inches as I think, being American, it was done in inches (mm readings were a bit odd) Hope it helps https://ibb.co/TkY8BGq Not bothered with the short leg sizes, as I never used them. Probably used to get a start then changed to the longer ones.
    1 point
  10. If there is any wear in the suspension setup at all the tracking will only be based on where the car has settled. for instance a worn track rod will give different reading depending on how it's at rest. Obviously a respectable/honest outfit would say to you that there was wear, and that they couldn't guarantee the setting, but in my experience such places are nowadays few and far between, and if the name starts with 'Kwik anything' be very beware..........
    1 point
  11. It will be the spindles that connect the actuator motors to the direction and heat flaps. They get brittle over time and snap, about £8 each but quire a lot of dismantling to get to. Same as a Fiat Bravo and there are some YouTube videos, much worse if LHD though. Replace as many as you can while it's in bits. HTH
    1 point
  12. Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on
    1 point
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