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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Solved this problem on my 2005 GV. After a massive exchange and cleanup of sensors, filters, fuel filter housing etc. the remaining cause had to be the fuel pump itself. Handed it over to a mechanic who confirmed that two out of three return valves were stuck. This led to a drop in fuel pressure or lack of fuel to the injectors as only 1/3 of the diesel could pass. Replaced the small steel balls of the right size and problem fixed. These balls came in a small bag and was easily fitted. These balls get worn out over the years. I see a lot of frustrated GV owners out there, like myself. Great car except for all that needs fixing all the time A lot of interesting ideas in this forum, but don't get carried away. Engine cutting out at acceleration must be fuel starvation. Take it from there. Check the moving parts first....they always wear out first...

Mine is also odd. Whenever I open the door to get in it says: 'You will regret buying this car. Wait until you see how soon the battery will go flat'' Then when getting out it says: "Phew, we made it. THIS time!".

I recently purchased two 2012 Ypsilon twinair with dualogic, one each for wifey and me. One had gearbox issues just two weeks after purchase, this was repaired under the used car warranty - apparently requiring the replacement of the gearbox actuator. After a year of ownership, the second car started having the same problems. As it is out of warranty and the cost of the repair on the other car was about £1500 I thought I would see if I could repair it. Success (details below), I know there are not many dualogic Ypsilons in the UK, but if this post helps one other owner it will of been worth it. :-) Symptoms: Gears unavailable message when stationary and stuck in neutral, randomly getting stuck in gear under braking with no throttle and then gears unavailable message and stuck in neutral when stopped. This mostly happened from a cold start and when the car had been running for less than 30 minutes, dependent on outside temperature. DTCs: P060A, P2917, P2916, P1742 in various combinations. Cause: There is a small aluminium piston in a bore behind the black cover at the back of the actuator (near the bulkhead). It needs to be able to move backwards and forwards freely as this motion is the same as moving the gearstick in a manual car from side to side to align to 1st or 2nd, 3rd or 4th, 5th or reverse. If there is dirt in the bore, movement is not free resulting in incorrect location of the piston and hence the failure. Solution: I flushed it out with a can of brake cleaner and then regreased the pins before closing it up again. I also removed the solenoid from the side of the bore and cleaned that, if you do this be careful not to lose the little spring from inside. Considerations: My car is almost 5 years old and started having this problem a couple of months ago. My wife has the same car and had the same issue just after she purchased it at just over 3 years old and 13,000 miles. The actuator on my wife's car was replaced under warranty, but it probably just needed cleaning. I don't believe a drop of oil in the bore would cause an issue, but there was a lot of aluminium sludge caused by wear from the back and forth movement. It is a simple job to do and so for me, I will just check / clean / regrease as required once a year. Hope this helps others with dualogic issues. :-)

Great review!!!!

No Mikey, I heard that from a, ahem, 'friend'

I'm still on the original battery too. My S/S has ceased working but thats OK with me and no other issues so................... I have disconnected before though for service work. No real issues although you may get some initial lights and errors and may need to move the steering wheel from lock to lock to remove any Steering errors. You might also need to reset the Auto-down windows function by fully depressing each then holding for 5 seconds.

Deltamike - I honestly think the Delta's lights are really good - and that's with Halogen Dipped beam.............. you should try driving a Fiat Coupe at night!

First thing i would be looking at is if you have a amp in the back of boot area for the stereo have been known to play up and drain the battery as i have had one go on me and as for the battery i would only fit a 800CCA or higher in a grand hope this might help m8.

Hi Nico, and welcome to the club! The Navi unit will require the loom as the connections will be different. Unfortunately most used units don't come with any wiring, so you'll find it difficult to install. My advice would be to go for a good quality branded aftermarket unit instead as it will be much more straight forward to fit.

Before taking the plunge, I decided to take the old knob off and check the fixings / dimensions. As you can see from the pic below. Fitting the Renegade knob would have meant filing a flat on to the gear stick. So I decided against that, and went down the refurb route. Clean and flat with 1200 grit, 2 coats of aluminium paint 4 of clear lacquer later. Job done. Total cost; zero as I'd the paint left over from another job. I still might look for an alternative, but I don't dislike the original. I'll see how this turns out.

Trials and tribulations of the MOT. New left front abs sensor and a rear brake pipe and she passed, I had to get the garage to bleed the car as it wouldn’t for me, but I was told I had put the pipe on the wrong way!!!!! Will look when it stops raining but it’s all done and no warning lights but now I have a strange sound like a graunching from the left rear wheel, something else to look at.

Enjoy the car, it looks an absolute belter. I'm not keen on white cars, but the Delta just seems to suit it, especially with the black roof.

Have you tried the earth lead connection to the starter motor? That was the trouble with mine with similar symptoms a year or so back IIRC. A quick wiggle and it magically sprang back to life. Replaced the spade connector with a new one after and it's not done it again. Good luck!

Hopefully found the fault, looks like its the header tank cap, I have the overflow into a small bottle with a little coolant in , as soon as the slightest pressure starts to build it escapes into the bottle , had a new 13 lbs cap so changed it for the original - no more bubbles in the bottle , took the car out for a decent drive today, heater worked fine all the time, temp stayed at 1/2, as soon as I pulled up at home I popped the bonnet, the coolant was bang on level no bubbles in the bottle have ordered a correct 16 lbs cap + I will flush and refill with the correct coolant Mine has the aux heater so I will remove the pipe under the car to drain just to make sure I get all the old coolant out Thanks Dave

Well everybody finally sorted the oil pressurs out it was a new faulty oil switch put on oil gauge and a new switch oil is running at 2 bays hot and 5 bar hot so it is all good. So now for led head lights trying some new ones out there called slimline leds they gave the same pattern as the original but brighter and it goes on.

Yes I just got one from eBay works a dream doing mine tomorrow will get oil over me if there is oil it loves me .

Oh just a bit of info chaps, the body of the diesel steering pump is the same - I've had both on my bench - but with a different pulley and inlet pipe connection. The pipe is easy enough to get off and swap, but the pulley is a completely different matter - ruddy impossible without the correct tools. Rock Auto USA will sell you the body for a lot less than we can get them over here!!

Done! :-) http://i63.tinypic.com/b533o0.jpg

Welcome Drew! You can't beat the feeling of removing that dreadful Chrysler badge! Looks waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better now!

Hi there, welcome to the club fantastic cars when they're not acting up! My previous gv had the same problem with the door locks, quick 'fix' pop the bonnet, go to the fuse box and take the Iod fuse out for a few seconds. Back in and they'll start working. I think it's caused by a sticky lock actuator, so if you feel like it, take door cards off and clean them up, lube them up and it might sort it. (mine was because the rear doors had their popup locks removed as it was used as a taxi, and I suspect this was causing jamming problems)

Yeah I know Herts well as I used to work in Hatfield and commute from Cheshire lol. Veloces are good guys to be fair, but mainly a sales enterprise with a service bay for car prep... Autolusso are your best bet. They're well regarded in the Alfa community and know their stuff. I'd give them a call or drop in rather than email. They're usually a busy service and parts centre so you'll get a better response talking to them. As for Glyn Hopkins...I'd rather cut my head off and sh*t down the hole than give them any money!!!

I'll put 1st dibs on it, and if my mate can fix it, I can hold it as 'community spares' :-D

Took me ages trying to get these pictures up,I'm in bury...only seen one white near me once..not many around.had a few people ask me about it since it was rebadged...kind of like the exclusivity it brings for the money it cost.. Don't know weather to go the hole Hogg and get the airbag, It's been a great help reading all you guys posts to ,,thanks..

The part number would seem to be YY23BD1AA. Try a main dealer, they should be about £6 to £8 each. Or if a few of you got together we could get them from moparwholsaleparts.com in the States, just had a quick work out and even with delivery they would be around £8 each based on 4.

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

Hi, Sounds like neither garage knew what they were doing to be honest! Compete twonks as it takes about two minutes to reset both counters!! I use Nigel Snape for all my personal and stock cars. He's a Master mechanic, factory trained and ex dealer network so knows his way around anything Italian. He can reset both the oil degradation and mileage lights for you in minutes! All of his details can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/Master-Tech-Vehicle-Services-1503549283203097/

The blue smoke is from burning engine oil. Could be worn Turbo spindle bearing and seals causing oil to be pumped into the exhaust. Worn piston rings general engine wear. Worst case is dieseling on your lubricating oil when the turbo spindle is worn and lubricating oil is being pumped into the compressed air scroll and into the combustion chamber. Eventually all of the lubricating oil is consumed as fuel and the engine siezes. White smoke could be unburnt diesel or coolant. Could be a damaged fuel injector, fault with injector timing or DPF (if you have one). Knowing how most people don't know how to look after a VM diesel engine, I reckon it is probably a coolant problem, cracked head or failed head gasket. A VM turbo diesel needs at least 30 seconds of idling after starting to ensure good oil pressure is on the turbo spindle bearings before driving. It also needs at least a minute of idling before switching off to allow the turbo to slow down and cool down with oil pressure on the spindle bearing. If the car has just done a high speed journey or been driven hard to get high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) it will need longer idling to cool down, 3 minutes or more. Today you won't find any manufacturer say this is necessary, but if you do this from new with any turbo diesel engine you are likely to have fewer problems with cracked heads, failed gaskets, failed turbos or dieseling on your lubricating oil.

Hi Folks, It's my first day here today and before I post my own plea for help - I can help with this one! I've just fixed my window motor. I had the same problem with my previous Grand Voyager. Banging the motor might work for a short while but the problem is that the carbon brushes that touch the commutator of the electric motor have worn down. (The driver's window is usually the one that gets the most use, so it makes sense that this will wear first.) I'm sure that a dealer would charge an arm and a leg to replace the whole motor, but the worn brushes will probably cost a couple of quid. I'm not sure of the price because there's a way to squeeze more life out of them! Take the door panel off as forster81 has described . The next thing to do is to remove the tie wrap from the window motor - it holds one of the cable runs to the motor. It's fairly easy to release the tie wrap with a small screwdriver to lift the little locking flap where the tie-wrap is poked through itself - that way it can be re-used. Next you need to use a suitable Torx (if that's how to spell it?!) bit with a socket set to undo the 3 bolts holding the motor to the door. You might need to use some WD-40 and a Mole-grip to hold the back of the nuts. It's a little bit fiddly to get a good grip if the nuts are tight. Once you've removed the motor, there are a couple of brass coloured bolts that you can undo with a screwdriver. These hold the motor together. Then the housing of the motor armature (the heavy bit with lots of wires wound around it) can be taken off. It will feel weird as it has some powerful magnets built into it. The top of the armature has a screw thread on it. As the screw thread comes out of the top housing, the brushes - which are spring loaded - will fill the gap a little. It's actually this movement that is not enough as the brushes will have worn. This squeezing together of the brushes will be stopped by the little wire cables that are embedded in the carbon. Before we deal with this, pick up the armature and clean the part that the brushes rub against. Personally, I use a small screwdriver and clean the carbon deposits out from between the little copper rectangles. Then I use a small piece of wet&dry or an emery board to gently rub the copper plates until they're nice and shiny. Now, back to the brushes. You will see that they have little springy pieces of wire that push them in. Take a photo of them - to help remind you how they fit, and then remove them and put them somewhere safe. To get more life from the brushes, gently flatten the little cables and carefully push the brushes into the centre so that they move further than they did - and the little cables lie flat under the housing. Then screw the armature back into the top. Move the brushes aside first. Then refit the little springs for each of the 2 brushes which should hold them against the copper bits that you cleaned. Replace the armature housing - and don't be surprised when the magnet makes it jump into place. Replace the 3 Torx bolts. Refit the tie-wrap. Then refit the door panel. Eventually they'll wear more, and I'll have to find someone to provide replacement brushes, but at the moment, I can open my window with confidence!