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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on

I recently purchased two 2012 Ypsilon twinair with dualogic, one each for wifey and me. One had gearbox issues just two weeks after purchase, this was repaired under the used car warranty - apparently requiring the replacement of the gearbox actuator. After a year of ownership, the second car started having the same problems. As it is out of warranty and the cost of the repair on the other car was about £1500 I thought I would see if I could repair it. Success (details below), I know there are not many dualogic Ypsilons in the UK, but if this post helps one other owner it will of been worth it. :-) Symptoms: Gears unavailable message when stationary and stuck in neutral, randomly getting stuck in gear under braking with no throttle and then gears unavailable message and stuck in neutral when stopped. This mostly happened from a cold start and when the car had been running for less than 30 minutes, dependent on outside temperature. DTCs: P060A, P2917, P2916, P1742 in various combinations. Cause: There is a small aluminium piston in a bore behind the black cover at the back of the actuator (near the bulkhead). It needs to be able to move backwards and forwards freely as this motion is the same as moving the gearstick in a manual car from side to side to align to 1st or 2nd, 3rd or 4th, 5th or reverse. If there is dirt in the bore, movement is not free resulting in incorrect location of the piston and hence the failure. Solution: I flushed it out with a can of brake cleaner and then regreased the pins before closing it up again. I also removed the solenoid from the side of the bore and cleaned that, if you do this be careful not to lose the little spring from inside. Considerations: My car is almost 5 years old and started having this problem a couple of months ago. My wife has the same car and had the same issue just after she purchased it at just over 3 years old and 13,000 miles. The actuator on my wife's car was replaced under warranty, but it probably just needed cleaning. I don't believe a drop of oil in the bore would cause an issue, but there was a lot of aluminium sludge caused by wear from the back and forth movement. It is a simple job to do and so for me, I will just check / clean / regrease as required once a year. Hope this helps others with dualogic issues. :-)

Great review above by Forzalancia. I would only emphasise the aspect 'space'. The car has enormous inside space, comparable to (or even bigger than) cars of larger category. Especially the space for back seat passengers is shocking. In terms of performance, engines are very good. I have the 1.4 MA and although fuel consumption is a bit high, the engine has good responsiveness and surprisingly good acceleration, even when you are on 6th gear cruising leisurely on the motorway. Road feedback of course is light years back in comparison to an Alfa Romeo, steering feels imprecise and gear change less smooth, so coming from an Alfa GT I feel a bit "out of my waters", as it actually feels like a boat in comparison to the GT, although they have almost the same dimensions. But let us not forget that it is a completely different car, addressing different public. In terms of design, the car beats hands down any 2020 model and the Platino version with the 18" wheels is just astonishingly beautiful. The car that you sent on the link is the 'argento' basic version (not sure how it is called in the UK), I would wait to get a higher spec version. Don't bother with the navi-radio, it is useless by modern standards. An important aspect to take into consideration is who is going to service it, in continental Europe FIAT network is extensive, not sure how it is in the UK.

Hi just going to check for these spark plugs fitted between the banks that mike reports. I've a 2003 2.5 CRD so ok ok ok don't rush me, wrong year, you's talking 2007/8. Been one of those days, weeks. Amazing what you find on engines as you get old and decrepit.. Oops white coats coming must go..

Starter batteries are simply a purse, a reserve of starting power, the bigger the purse the bigger the reserve, and the longer it takes to refill the purse. At 800CCA and 85aH it takes a long unspecified time with a 160/180a alternator to replace just the one half turn start. Agreed should be ± 25mA, I'd accept a frack either way but not +10. The IPM [fusebox] is often a culprit for leaks but then the whole car function is a PCI BUS just like your computer. What battery ? Standard factory fit radio ? No tow bar or other third party rewire ? Mind you Tim, I've suffered all the 10 years I've had it, but mine is deffo a lifestyle issue. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Best of luck.

I'm not (new to Italian cars) so ask away, rather than to chance making a balls up :-D

The exhaust is now on; so a few pics. Nello is right they are bloomin' heavy. The old one put up a bit of a fight but eventually came off quite cleanly. The new one went on with no issues, other than one of the hangers seemed to have been bent in transit, but it straightened out OK. I've only driven about 10 miles since fitting and as far as the sound goes, it really isn't that different; perhaps a bit deeper note but no nasty booming, which was my big concern. I've also ordered a new rear rubber hanger, as mine is looking pretty tired.

Plus 1 :-( On the bright side, theres no leaks!!! And I found a place who do a back box for 45 quid, delivered! EBay number 163697187013

Quaife Diff NEW stored in original box for three years... unfitted..... code QDF9V1 These are £1100 new, this is for sale at, £500 + postage.

Just had a quick look and a pair of brand new headlights can be had from rockauto.com from under £100 delivered in 4 to 5 days.

Yeah that's all normal Tim. Doesn't it make a massive difference having a Lancia badge in front of you! I stopped after all exterior badges, sill plates and airbag. I meant to do the engine cover and headrests but never got round to it. I even tried to find the setting in Examiner to change the the start up file to Lancia on the info display. But for some reason couldn't find it.

Good buy take it before it vanishes. Job down for 4 hours whoever does it. So from your average garage they will be wanting about £70/hr, mine cost £450 back in 2013 without pump (seems to have not needed it). Chrysler garage £125/hr minimum, quoted £750 for job. Belt and wheels should be about £150. Add water pump here as its driven by same belt. So Labour about £280 + Parts around £150 = total £430 not far away. Your choice but its a tight working space.

yes I bet its the camber setting is out and it is important to put the spring assemblies back the same way they came off as I found out.

It was the dimmer control thanks a lot Andy.

Hi Just joined hello to all just got a Grand voyager 2.8 crd on a 57 plate going going through all the sensors and filters oils etc big thanks to Andy for is youtube videos and chat with him. Just done the Map sensor manifold you could not see the tip makes you wonder how they ran like that it definitely pays to check the things well let you know now things go.

Oh just a bit of info chaps, the body of the diesel steering pump is the same - I've had both on my bench - but with a different pulley and inlet pipe connection. The pipe is easy enough to get off and swap, but the pulley is a completely different matter - ruddy impossible without the correct tools. Rock Auto USA will sell you the body for a lot less than we can get them over here!!

I've not seen a Delta for over 6 months now... See Delta's really are a cheap way into exclusivity!

Well.the omens are good. Started first turn of the key last evening when I collected her from the garage and, even more significantly, first turn this morning even though it is cold outside (well, as cold as it gets here!). I took her straight to "Cut Out" roundabout and no problems whatsoever and she seemed to running more smoothly and evenly but, of course, we have to allow here for auto-sugguestion on my part! So, cautious optimism, I'll take her for another run later on and I'll keep you all informed.

The dreaded seat! I really wish it was sliding like the other versions

PF 12 MHY should be enough to use as a template reg number

Hi Lindzy and welcome along ! If there's 84k miles on the pump and you have no evidence that it has been changed in the cars lifetime, I would take the opportunity to do it now, as it would be at least 5 years old now ???? The reason that most garages recommend a pump change is because most are ran by the timing belt now and most timing belts are now in kit form and include new guide bearings, belt stretcher and some include the pump and gasket, when the new belt is fitted the new stretcher puts a different tension on the belt (because it is new) and this may be more than the old belt, which is a different push or pull on the old water pump (if it hasn't been replaced) what often happens is, that 3 or 4 months after you replace the timing belt and don't renew the pump, the pump begins to leak because of the different tension Apologies for the rambling response, your eyes have probably glazed over

I've got access to 3 different up to date snap-on within 3 minutes of here and several other brands, none of which were to my satisfaction because they don't do what my existing old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2016 edition does. The old v1 x431 does do everything on my 05 2.8 CRD, but that doesn't mean that it or any specific scanner does all things across the whole range . . none of them do . . . ask anyone who knows these things and has to use them all day long every day. Most small garages have two for a reason, bigger places also have dual trace scopes in conjunction with a diagnostic scanner and diagnostic equipment is useless without experience & expensive training or for the novice even more expensive a scanner with guided diagnostics / the HGS. No one diagnostic scanner does all parts of all cars. My observation is that the GV/Town & Country does not have a CRD as far as the Americans are concerned, so from the cheap Haynes manuals to expensive diagnostic scanners there's no diesel powertrain module even if it does read your VIN number properly and many don't.

Yes I have constantly bleated that gordy .. .. and one main reason for my conclusion ! As a lifelong self-maintainer I would have fought anyone accusing me of less than 'super diligent' maintenance yet when I did a complete [oil] [water] [brake fluid] [autobox] change of all wets I was mortified to find a lumpy carrots and tatties in the coolant. Unless you yourself have maintained it from brand new, and none of us will have always assume all three are well knackered. The brake fluid is hydroscopic, the wrong cheepo oil / filters and coolant is always used by both garages and pet fitters. Do your car a favour, this trilogy of fluids are your lifeblood. Never backflush a RAD, always use HOAT, it will self bleed from the expansion bottle, always open the heater to full belt and change the fluid in the matrix. Best of luck. HOAT only coolant ATF+4 only Mopar Spec AutoBox oil

Ah good thinking @@bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above. On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate. I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)

Just wanted to thank Nello for his instructions on how to replace the front grill and yes, I know this post is getting quite old now. We've got two Delta's - a Volcanic Black Momo 'S' model and my white SR, both 1.6TD. I found a grill on eBay Italy but the guy wouldn't ship it to the UK for some reason. (He also ignored the messages that I sent him), so I got it shipped to a friend in Germany who kindly shipped it to us. Yesterday we took the front bumper off the S and replaced it with the Lancia grill, then moved the Momo grill to my SR. The grill wasn't cheap, it was 199 Euro. Also the back Lancia badge was another 22 Euro. The right hand side, underneath the car is a total pain in the arse because its got plastic screws which hold a cover in place. The rest of it was fairly simple. The first bumper took about an hour and a half as we were learning on the job, where as we did my SR in about half that time. I'm not convinced yet by the black grill on my SR, but it does look good on the S. Here's some pics of before and after.

How's the temperature gauge sitting? I've had 2 now that sat about 1/4 even when driving for a while. The original thermostat was seized open, but fitting a second thermostat in the top radiator hose solved the problem. Have a look at the video by Andyb2000. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1425-25-crd-thermostat-sealed-unit-or-not/

The blue smoke is from burning engine oil. Could be worn Turbo spindle bearing and seals causing oil to be pumped into the exhaust. Worn piston rings general engine wear. Worst case is dieseling on your lubricating oil when the turbo spindle is worn and lubricating oil is being pumped into the compressed air scroll and into the combustion chamber. Eventually all of the lubricating oil is consumed as fuel and the engine siezes. White smoke could be unburnt diesel or coolant. Could be a damaged fuel injector, fault with injector timing or DPF (if you have one). Knowing how most people don't know how to look after a VM diesel engine, I reckon it is probably a coolant problem, cracked head or failed head gasket. A VM turbo diesel needs at least 30 seconds of idling after starting to ensure good oil pressure is on the turbo spindle bearings before driving. It also needs at least a minute of idling before switching off to allow the turbo to slow down and cool down with oil pressure on the spindle bearing. If the car has just done a high speed journey or been driven hard to get high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) it will need longer idling to cool down, 3 minutes or more. Today you won't find any manufacturer say this is necessary, but if you do this from new with any turbo diesel engine you are likely to have fewer problems with cracked heads, failed gaskets, failed turbos or dieseling on your lubricating oil.

Take the key out properly ........................ http://i.imgur.com/ECjjUgE.png Key all the way anti-clockwise, then one forward to the LOCK position.

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM. 5w 30 fully synthetic oil is recommended for your 2.8. Alan

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM Sorry to hear that someone has damaged your Grand! Unfortunately the lens is not replaceable on its own, and you will need to replace the whole unit. Fortunately this is a very straight forward job and you should be able to save yourself some money by doing it yourself. In order to remove the rear light, raise the tailgate (boot). You will see 2 x 10mm bolts at the boot side of the light unit. Undo these two bolts. Then, pull the whole light unit straight back towards you. There are two rubber locating lugs that hold the light into the rear quarter panel and these will "un pop" as you pull the light straight back. Then simply disconnect the wiring multi-plugs and remove the unit, Hope that helps, Alan