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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on

Okay, carried on and prised out the Bush, it had to come out one way or another, and with that out the sub frame was lowered and the Arm came out. Old Bush off, new one on, well on once I spent a long time cleaning the inside of it out of over-rubberisation (note to self - do not but cheap eBay replacement parts), and now all back together . Now to address the other thing it failed on, smoky engine bay .

Sorry, should have posted this in the problems page. Next time I will...promise Anyway, if anyone was wondering what the solution was to code U140E....it was indeed down to a long term flat battery. Took the car to 'D.Salmon' in Colchester today & they sorted it out within an hour. They re-flashed the PCM, took it for a test drive & all sorted. I've got to admit that I have always been a bit wary of main dealers, but 'D.Salmon' were the only place in Essex that I could find that were still servicing Chryslers & still had Starscan/Wi-Tech & the knowhow to use it. They have now changed my opinion of main dealers. They were absolutely fantastic & the guy doing the job really did know what he was doing, he was a real pro & so much more knowledgeable than every local garage/mechanic that looked at it & said.."it's the ABS pump mate ! " The price was £99 (inc VAT) & I suppose that also includes the one off £35 pass to Techauthority for access to the Chrysler database, so that's not a bad price. After four months of owning a Chrysler 300C with no ABS, ESP, Cruise control etc & not having the software to fix it (I thought I did when I bought it, but I was wrong), it's nice to finally find a main dealer (open after the lockdown has lifted) that still has the tech to service Chryslers.

Hi all Had these made by Vistaprint, well chuffed!!

Yeh true. Sorry to give bad news to a fellow traveller. If your north east England, in the do-da and stuck (after coVid or we will get bobbies) I'll give you 2 free reads+clear's. So you need to be somewhere twixt Leeds/Newcastle, I'll meet you half way my friend. Best of luck.

I just took mine to Halfords where they charged me a minimal amount to install. It took five mins, they took care of the old battery too. Once fitted all the dash warning lights came on but disappeared after 20 secs & I was good to go- just had to change the date/time settings which was simple enough even for me. Paul.

Definitely not condensation in my case - pool of water under the plastic insert when removed You'd want to be dogging all night, every night to generate that much moisture

Definitely buy it mate. Get rid of that granddad Rover 75 that's costing you money. When was the last time a ten year old kid turned his head at that old thing? Go on, treat yourself to the 300c, you'll be the boss cruising in that and you'll have to get used to the attention it gets. Now, I'm not gonna tell you it's super reliable. But you're throwing cash at that old 75. Get rid and spend the cash on the 300c. You say it's up for less than three grand? That's no money mate. But don't buy the first car you see. There are plenty around, a quick internet search will bring up loads. In my opinion, a 300c has to have 20 inch alloys at least, 22s would be better. 18s look too small on such a big car. Treat yourself Jamie, you owe it to yourself. Dooo it, dooo it, dooo it

Did all 3 mods on my previous 2.5 also on current 2.8. Never a problem with either, I have lurked the forum for many years and followed the advice and suggestions from QuinteQ, AndyB, Big Nev etc, to whome I am most gratefull.

Hi Nico, and welcome to the club! The Navi unit will require the loom as the connections will be different. Unfortunately most used units don't come with any wiring, so you'll find it difficult to install. My advice would be to go for a good quality branded aftermarket unit instead as it will be much more straight forward to fit.

Enjoy the car, it looks an absolute belter. I'm not keen on white cars, but the Delta just seems to suit it, especially with the black roof.

Quaife Diff NEW stored in original box for three years... unfitted..... code QDF9V1 These are £1100 new, this is for sale at, £500 + postage.

Hi guys. A cautionary tale that I hope will be of use. In a nutshell we discovered that our mechanic and very likely he had followed what previously had been done, had fitted the pad retaining spring ends in the wrong place. This resulted in the whole caliper feeling loose/floating about and wearing the pads at an angle overheating and cracking a piston. Very useful photos came up on google in next to no time. Cheers.

Big shoe Horn between underside of light and top of bumper will do the trick.

yes I bet its the camber setting is out and it is important to put the spring assemblies back the same way they came off as I found out.

Oh just a bit of info chaps, the body of the diesel steering pump is the same - I've had both on my bench - but with a different pulley and inlet pipe connection. The pipe is easy enough to get off and swap, but the pulley is a completely different matter - ruddy impossible without the correct tools. Rock Auto USA will sell you the body for a lot less than we can get them over here!!

Done! :-) http://i63.tinypic.com/b533o0.jpg

Great, glad to hear it @@Expoman That adds up to my thinking that this has a large list of problems that cause the same/similar symptoms hence being so tricky to pin down. I'm still getting bad starts so think there is more to be done so I'll get on with that in warmer weather. Did a lot of driving today, snow and -2 temperatures and no problems though. The non-return-valve idea was talked about, QinteQ mentioned it to me a few weeks back when we were having a catch up in his lads garage and sounds a sensible idea if you think that's the issue, though it's more of a sticking-plaster solution than finding the root cause. Also, anyone in the UK know where to source the fuel filter (rear edition beside tank) assembly so I can order one as thinking it's worth doing at some point.

I've not seen a Delta for over 6 months now... See Delta's really are a cheap way into exclusivity!

Welcome Drew! You can't beat the feeling of removing that dreadful Chrysler badge! Looks waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better now!

PF 12 MHY should be enough to use as a template reg number

Hi, I got through the local main dealer, it moved from Chrysler Westover...to Jeep Westover( they changed name and location). I am waiting for a price from him as the system wasn't loading fast enough. If you wish to contact them, you have to say it is a right hand side driver, they will ask that along with a number plate or chassis number(don't use the chassis number as it comes up left hand drive..if anyone that reads this message could post their number plate would be easier for the guy to find the right part...it should be only one part coming up but the guy at the phone said it comes up with more models. I'll let you know what the price is soon as he contacts me.

Hi Lindzy and welcome along ! If there's 84k miles on the pump and you have no evidence that it has been changed in the cars lifetime, I would take the opportunity to do it now, as it would be at least 5 years old now ???? The reason that most garages recommend a pump change is because most are ran by the timing belt now and most timing belts are now in kit form and include new guide bearings, belt stretcher and some include the pump and gasket, when the new belt is fitted the new stretcher puts a different tension on the belt (because it is new) and this may be more than the old belt, which is a different push or pull on the old water pump (if it hasn't been replaced) what often happens is, that 3 or 4 months after you replace the timing belt and don't renew the pump, the pump begins to leak because of the different tension Apologies for the rambling response, your eyes have probably glazed over

You need multiecuscan software and then need to clear both service and oil degradation counters. If you are going to keep the car a while and do your own servicing and diagnostics is well worth buying as it will soon pay for itself. You need to run it on a laptop and get a set of connectors for the OBD2 socket.

Welcome to the site! Yes the pricing especially from dealers can be vastly ranging, seen some for ridiculous money because they had "low" mileage. We've had 3 and not seen any rot, but ours are all 2002 / 2005. All our we're petrol, on LPG, so not had many of the running problems of the diesels. I changed the wheels on 2 of ours, porous on one and scabby on the other!! Try the PCD checker website as a backup. Yep the central locking motors can be a problem, bu they cost pennies to fix. If your family is growing and you are using buggies - you WILL notice the difference to the Grand, our twins buggy wouldn't fit in the shorter Voyager with the rear seats slid to the back. Handbrake not holding - yes got that, so I park it in "Park" it clunks when i comes out on hills, other than that not a worry for me. In 12 months and 11,000 miles a set of new 18" Accelera 245 50 PHI R wore by 1mm on the back from 8mm centre 7mm outers. No they are not the same depth all the way across I measured brand new ones.The fronts were down to 2mm so I replaced them, for more Accelera's. Top front suspension mounts - yep fairly common, but is that because we talk about it and other car sites don't as it's an easier / less expensive fix so just gets done? Wiper stalk problems, I've had the indicator not self cancelling on one of our cars. Got a brand new pattern unit recently for £28.00, and 20 minute to replace it. No problems as yet! with the lights. They are super things to drive, we also now have a 2007 Ford Galaxy Ghia with loads of toys, panoramic roof etc, but the Grand Voyager is a much nicer "posher" car (and in petrol / LPG silky smooth), and he Ford is far from fault free!!!!

How's the temperature gauge sitting? I've had 2 now that sat about 1/4 even when driving for a while. The original thermostat was seized open, but fitting a second thermostat in the top radiator hose solved the problem. Have a look at the video by Andyb2000. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1425-25-crd-thermostat-sealed-unit-or-not/

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

Can we have a tab for lpg converted grand voyagers. To discuss problems, tips etc

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM As above, if you look at the end of your fob where the key ring part is, you can pull out a conventional key, and then if you go to the passenger side front door (uk spec vehicle) you can insert the key in the lock and manually unlock the door. Once you have jump started the car you can then unlock all the doors with the remote fob. Hope that helps, Alan