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Problem now sorted hopefully... Before I go into details, I would like to quote the old saying 'buy cheap, buy twice, buy thrice' as all brake pads are not equal & all brake pads do not fit as properly as OEM pads....especially if they are produced in China for the EU. My problem was brake knock/rattle over bumpy roads at low speed & it was indeed the pads. It wasn't the height of the pads that was the problem (183.4 mm), it was the width of the pad ears. The pad ears on cheap pads are not wide enough, hence they rock back & forth, which causes a clunk/rattle on rough ground which goes away when you apply the brakes. I bought some NAPA 'proformer' pads & they have ears that are (and I've measured them with a micrometer) 0.9mm wider, which pushes into the caliper clips alot tighter, thus stopping them rocking back & forth and preventing the brake pad from rattling....at last I'm a happy 300C driver

Hiya there! I have the same situation, same car, nothing in the UK. So either one of the stainless steel make one on the car companies, or a fortune from the States. Yep. I've carried on bodging it so far!!

I will answer myself if someone should have similar problems: The case is solved. Its not easy to find a wiring diagram for the 2.8 diesel but at last I found one. The three pins on the alternator stands for Dummy-LIN-Dummy so only the "LIN" should be connected. According to the wiring diagram there should be a wire between ECM pin #93 and the LIN connections with white/orange. Found the cable by the ECM but the other end is impossible to find if i dont remove a lot of things. Cut the wire and made a new cable to the alternator and works perfect!

Few things there. What engine & transmission do you have? Jerky take up of drive could be worn engine or gearbox mounts causing those items to move excessively and transmit the movement through the car. Or could be a worn clutch or flywheel. Can you rock the engine back & forth by hand? How many miles has it done, do you know if it's ever had a clutch? Car should slow down when you take your foot off the throttle due to engine braking, be pretty dangerous if it didn't so not sure what to say about that. Stop & start failure is very likely battery voltage related so you might have a weak battery, in which case you could try disconnecting it & giving it a proper charge overnight, or maybe the alternator isn't fully charging it so either way be worth checking the battery. With the car off it should be 12-13V, with the engine running around 14V. These cars are of course Lancias made by Fiat, nothing to do with Chrysler, so if you have a look on the Fiat forum there's quite a bit about S&S failure messages.

Hi Big Nev my oil pressure sensor was also the fault thanks for your input Regards Dave

I know it's a bit late but here's a solution. If like myself you have AlfaOBD and an OBDLink sx you can read the steering angle sensor and see if it's in the right position. If it's not in the right position (0.00 at the straightest position) the the ABS/SRS/ESC won't work. I found mine had been messed with so I found no harm in trying to centre it myself while the new sensor was on the way (eBay btw). first start with the wheels straight ahead then remove the steering wheel (Not easy) then with alfaobd reading the angle sensor I removed the centre clock spring box (DO NOT OPEN, It'll jump out at you and you will never get it all back in), then I moved the gears/cogs until it read 0.00 and replaced the box. If like me you notice alfaobd jump the angle to something other than 0.00 then you'll have to do it again. when it is at 0.00 or near enough to it (I think 0.50 or -0.50) then you are good to go and replace it all, clear the steering codes that'll be in the system and go for a test drive. I recommend when putting the nut that holds the steering wheel on you use some loctite an make sure the bolt is tight, be careful when removing anything and put all the wiring back as it came off, charge the battery while doing this as it may take quite a while and if you can't do it I really recommend taking a break and trying to set it differently. As I found out I needed to set the angle to +9.00 because alfaobd reported it being -18.00 once I put the box back in, this solved the problem and read +0.50 when replaced. One last thing, if the ESC light comes up and brakes for you on one side of the vehicle (Thinking you are turning while accelerating over 20mph) then you need to do it again, as you can see it is very trial and error and I would recommend replacing the whole steering angle sensor/clock spring to avoid this issue, I only did this myself because I have immeasurable patience when it comes to stuff like this and I didn't want to pay £300/400 for the whole assembly when I can look and see if I can fix it. Lastly, it really might be worth it to get the assembly and fit from new because of the issues ahead but also because if you have any hair left after replacing just the clock spring and not the angle sensor (I suspect the sensor has become unplugged if alfaobd just says 0.00 at any angle) then you will certainly have less than when you started.

I think you have answered it yourself - water over electrics. Not at all good. Dry it and then move onward. You hopefully know that the transmission fluid is checked with the engine running and hot? Oh and post in the correct section, the forum is nearly dead anyway!

Hi there! Fuel filter is located right in front of the engine on the left side. You can see it from the underneath of the car and cant miss it. Check, if it is not leaking on the sensor socket. It can be fuel pressure control valve as well. Thanks,

Did you get this sorted i have the same issue. Thanks

Water ingress on the brake pads makes the problem worse, so obviously a washout issue with how the pad ears & clips are greased. Copper grease of now seems to be different of copper grease of old & doesn't seem to be up the job anymore. Tried lithium grease... no better. Tried ceramic grease...no better. Tried CV joint grease...PERFECT !! CV joint grease....that black stinky stuff that smells like hydraulic fluid is perfect for brake pad ears & clips. Super lubricating & doesn't wash out. No more creaking & clunking when braking for 3 months now, even after driving through numerous deep puddles.

Hi there, I think it's just a bit of a coincidence, sadly, as the gearbox has input and output speed sensors on the 41TE auto on ours, and to my knowledge that's how it gets the feed for the speedometer. However, I stand to be corrected!! The wheel sensors are for the abs system. So it's very odd your speedo is now out of sync. Perhaps the old trick of disconnecting the battery for half an hour might help the electronic brains to reset? @gordy may have an idea on it? Hey pal!!?

Morning all, I have been looking for a decent spec Chrysler Ypsilon for a couple of months and either haven't found the right specs, or the cars I'm interested in go within a few hours. Specifically I am looking for a model with the 0.9 twinair engine. Spec wise, I am looking for either Limited, S-Series, Gold or Platinum. An automatic would be amazing but not a deal breaker. Ideally mileage would be no more than 70k. I have a budget of no more than £5k. I have been watching all the usual car selling sites but thought I'd post on here to see if anyone knows of anyone selling what I am looking for Thanks alot in advance

Not aware of any previous details - there are three cables from the parking brake lever, lever to intermediate bracket, n/s cable to bracket and o/s cable these are extracts from w/s manual hope they help

If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston. But other than that standard knowledge, unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

Fiats part system is called EPER, do a Google search to find an open source version and have your chassis number at hand

For what it's worth I'm a friend of Rich and I've seen how he cares for and babies his car. £1000 for this is a barg considering what he's done to it. Also I know he's selling it for aa legit reason to upgrade to a full EV, not because of any faults. He does love this car. Obvs I've only popped up here to say that, so I'm not expecting your to take it on faith, but I'm not blowing smoke up your asses

Hey, thanks for getting back to me even tho it's been a long time, I just abandoned my Chrysler for now, I'm focusing on other things, I should get a second injector return test this weekend and we'll see from there... I'm more and more thinking about my fuel pump, seems like air into fuel causing my weird idle + cutting out, I will keep you guys updated in the future

Torque converter is weak chain link on these transmissions. You will be taking it off together with the gearbox anyway. Besides, there could be inside some debris and metal particles too. If you don't want to take off transmission in near future again, I would strongly recommend to do torque converter as well. This is normal practice. You cant open it yourself. You need to take it off and send to someone, who can professionally cut it, restore everything inside, weld it back and balance. I have contacts here in UK (cost me 250 GBP), but in Norway there must be some companies too. Yes, you need to wash somehow your cooler as well. You obviously cant use the water. I don't actually know how you can flush it properly. Maybe with diesel fuel, but it is messy job. Theoretically, filter should have been keeping all the metal particles, but you never know. There could be aluminium dust as well. Personally, I have replaced my original cooler with Chinese aftermarket one, which I bought on e-bay for 40GBP. I have attached it to the original cooler with clips, there is enough space. Have done about 10 th. miles and it is working very well, oil temperature was never higher than 80C. Had to modify pipes connections though.

If metal particles are in the tray, this is not a good sign. Need to take gearbox off and look inside. You most probably have 41TE, A604 gearbox. Very popular gearbox in USA and Chrysler have stopped producing them only recently, 5 years ago or so. Plenty of second hand gearboxes available on e-bay, but I would recommend to put properly checked and reconditioned one. Another option is to buy second hand and repair kit with friction discs and to make one out of two. This is what I did. Also Torque converter need to be opened and reconditioned, if you want to do this job properly. I have been through this process myself twice. Second time was my own fault as I haven't noticed faulty needle bearing. Gearbox itself is very simple, if you can follow simple procedures, there are plenty of information on You tube and in general with instructions and manuals. A lot of circlips to take out and put back. I'm in the process of reconditioning another gearbox unit for my Chrysler now, so, next time gearbox is broken, I have ready unit to put in. Good question regarding using gearbox from petrol engine. I'm confident that gearbox from petrol 3.3 engine is the same as on 2.8 diesel, except gear ratios. It means that gearbox from petrol engine will work, but gears will change at different speeds (higher rpms). The only thing you need to check is electric connection on plug and pipe connections for oil cooler. All the fittings and everything else is the same. I have seen the post (possibly on this website) that guy did it on his diesel voyager and it worked well and he was very happy. Good luck with your project!

OBD scanner to be ordered tomorrow.

Thanks a lot, my friend! New filter has been ordered. Also correct ATF oil will be refilled. I'ĺl keep you informed of any progress in fixing this problem.

It's a British company, found them through a google search

Thanks Richard, will look out for it.

Did this a couple of years ago on mine, try this, cheapest I could find that had a good reputation. Works well

Fiat bravo front springs fit perfect 1.6 diesel

dave62pb, Not touched the vehicle since Wednesday last, we went to the beach for the weekend The job is a pig if like me, you do the water pump as well, the work area is so limited, TBH it's probably easier with the engine out That idea with the clothes pegs is pretty nifty, I'm gonna try that before I do anything else Update to follow

I'm in the middle of this job (in situ), timing is set, pins are in but getting the water pump out was a nightmare. Gonna reassemble tomorrow Does anyone have any inputs on an easy way to get the pump, in with the five 10mm bolts and that damn 8mm bolt for water pipe bracket ??? Talk about a tight squeeze, I'm dreading trying to put the rear timing cover back on. I tried watching the Russian guy on youtube but he doesn't show the pump change. Looking for useful hints.

A bit late with reply as been very busy, Not sure If pump timing is critical as its just high pressure pump , but when I did my belt and water pump I had a few attempts to get the pump marks to line up , in the end I clamped the belt to cam pulleys with wooden clothes pegs removed the idler near pump so I could turn pump a tooth just past marker , and put idler back on, then when I set belt tension all lined up When I first stripped it all down I checked markings and pump was 1 tooth out but car ran fine I too struggled with water pump bolts but found it best to put the bolt in pipe bracket and pump first , line up and screw in part way before other 4 bolts TBH the whole job was a pig so many bolts difficult to get to

Actually I have a bit of a dilemma. I changed the water pump and the timing belt and the engine ran. Should mention here that I did it using the cambelt locking pins. Sadly the gasket on the water pump leaked, guess I wasn't careful enough when I installed it. To cut a long story short I set the engine with the timing marks, locked the camshafts again, then removed the timing belt AGAIN, removed the pump, reassembled the rubber gasket adding a splodge of Hylomar Gasket sealant, refitted the pump and belt .................. I haven't done anything different to the first time BUT the engine won't fire up, she just spins on the starter motor. No nasty noises coming from the engine, she just refuses to start. Suggestions, bearing in mind the engine ran first time and I used the same timing marks second time round Is the position of fuel pump critical ???................... I didn't think it was being a CRD Chris

Okay, a bit late as I only look in occasionally, but when I did mine I didn't change the pump because there was no play in the shaft whatsoever. That said I was glad as getting to it looked difficult, and you might have to undo the engine mounts to get the engine moved enough to get good access. Presumably by now you've done the job, so hopefully it all went back together okay

Okay, carried on and prised out the Bush, it had to come out one way or another, and with that out the sub frame was lowered and the Arm came out. Old Bush off, new one on, well on once I spent a long time cleaning the inside of it out of over-rubberisation (note to self - do not but cheap eBay replacement parts), and now all back together . Now to address the other thing it failed on, smoky engine bay .

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time.

Thanks mate I will give them a go, yes not much response on this site bit of a waste of time really !