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  1. BarryScott

    Dash warning chimes

    Mine is also odd. Whenever I open the door to get in it says: 'You will regret buying this car. Wait until you see how soon the battery will go flat'' Then when getting out it says: "Phew, we made it. THIS time!".
    2 points
  2. RichardM

    Hand Brake...maybe

    So, as usual the manual for the 'Export Model' is BS. Hardly surprising considering my (limited) experience working on the old girl, I usually ship it off to my friendly garage as I have neither the enthusiasm, motivation or tool set to deal with her. I guess I'm lucky having a local garage that I trust, they are honest even to the point of telling me to get rid of the bus and buy something more reliable, but I'm 6'5" and it's the only car I've driven that doesn't require double jointed knees. It's also great to just drop the seats when I need a van rather than the hernia inducing removal of other vehicles.......
    2 points
  3. Thank you for al your help I have hopefully now fixed the transmission relay problem code p0888 fingers crossed
    2 points
  4. Hi Richard, Welcome! Others will probably stop by and help, hopefully my memory of these beasts will help, sadly I no longer have my own. So this is one that has cropped up from time to time quite often. It's also a problem I had on my old CGV (The second one I owned). Same thing, it's a warm start problem and it's very repeatable as you describe. My suspicion though is it was mechanical. When hot there is expansion in most components, and in my thinking it's down to poor compression why it won't start. It just turns over and over, it occasionally tries to catch but then dies (If you listen carefully to the engine you can hear it almost catch then immediately fail and back to starter motor just spinning the engine). If I still had mine I'd be starting to look at the cylinder head gasket or even cylinder rings getting worn and loosing compression when hot. Once engine is running it sort of self-heals as it's not as noticeable but when starting that's when you need it most. BUT after all that, sensors also deteriorate when hot so your thinking of swapping sensors is logical. My first thoughts would be the PRV on end of the diesel rail, the crank and speed sensors too, one by one is sensible here. All of those can affect the startup and are also sensors very prone to temperature related failures. On the radio/CD you should be fine fitting. You'll need the code from the old one though. The codes are normally stored in the ECU and 'pair' when they connect up, fitting a different unit I suspect will trigger the need to enter the code, which if you don't have the original manual/code doc for the donor car might not work, but I'd say give it a go. I recall that relay you mention but cannot for the life of me remember it's function. I'll see if I can find out! Cheers, Andy
    2 points
  5. andyb2000

    2.8 Crd Fuel Filter

    @@Sentech There are actually two locations for the 2.8CRD (and 2.5CRD) fuel filter on 4th gen. On every 2004/2005 model I've owned they are underneath to the rear by the fuel tank. None in the engine bay, but I've worked on ones with the filter (with the small rubber manual primer on the top) in the engine bay as you describe also. There seemed to be several variations on the design and so you need to physically check as I've yet to find a way of finding which edition matches which location for fuel filter and lift pump!
    2 points
  6. Taking the opportunity to get a few things done whilst I took a few days off work (yes I am officially retired but...) I bought a replacement fuel filter assembly (old one split diaphragm - running on BMW in line filter), fuel pressure sensor (hence the need to replace fuel filter assembly for easy bleed), fuel regulator solenoid and crankshaft sensor (has always been difficult to start when warm), camshaft sensor already replaced) Fuel filter assembly - pipe broke during replacement... currently having new one fabricated. Fuel pressure sensor - replaced no problem. Crankshaft sensor - ho hum... I can find no reference to the 2.8 CRD details in any of the manuals; (I have the following downloaded] - 2005-RG-Diesel-SM,RG-Body,RG-Chassis,RG-Diesel-Powertrain,RG-SM,RG-Transmission). Searched on google only found reference to uTube - spent around an hour searching by browsing many different videos, the UTub search is useless - how can Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD Crankshaft sensor find Seebring camshafts, et al...... anyway found what appears to be a Russian (Eastern European anyway) one that lead me completely astray in assuming just fourish bolts and away you go. Yes you have to drop the crossmember (those above bolts), which then reveals the ABS unit and steering gear which are both apparently in the way (I'm relaying my friendly mechanic's telephone report, which was interspersed with sobs and whimpers, plus comments on cut fingers and bruised thumb nails - oh even the easy bits, those bolts again, was not that easy as the two main bolts were both seized and required the subtle application of very large hammers and an oxy-acetylene torch). So, after a short (30 minute) telephone conversation, the crankshaft sensor replacement has been abandoned, apparently the ABS pump would need disconnecting which means bleeding the brakes etc. and a half day job has swallowed most of his week. Oh and the new Bosch fuel regulator when fitted and alternator, belts etc. refitted, leaked diesel through the electrical plug so the old one had to be refitted. Joy oh Joy. So no CV until next week, a weekend of wondering how much lighter my bank account will be and thinking I should have left well alone (Eaststart is only a couple of pounds a can after all!). Now to the point of this ramble, does anyone have details and hopefully images of the procedures normally used to replace the C/shaft sensor on aMK4 2007 (2006 type) 2.8CRD ?????? I think I'll buy a new bicycle instead.
    1 point
  7. Fairly sure the radio isn't the main failure as it stopped working about 4 years ago, the same time as the GPS, and long before my recent woes started. To conclude the weird instrument cycling I can live with, the lack of central locking is inconvenient but liveable, and the uncertainty whether it all might suddenly stop has been mitigated by the fact its still running 2 weeks later. So unless it gets significantly worse I'll keep it running until something else goes wrong
    1 point
  8. . Wow, a bit like comparing scars and bullet wounds . The biggest problem for me is that A, they don't make them any more, and B that there isn't anything similar on the market to replace it. In this day and age I struggle to understand why if you have something which was successfully marketed around the world, then why did they (FIAT Chrysler) stop making it ?, seems totally dumb to me. But hey in the words of many, what do I know .
    1 point
  9. Well yep that's a pain in the posterior! I've warned mine a few times too, behave or else. The AC no longer works, and I am NOT replacing that front to rear pipe run, I did it about 6 years ago with a new Chrysler part, very reasonable at the time, all 4 (2 cool 2 heat) pipes for about £150. The rear heater coil leaks so its capped off. It uses (don't know how or where!!) coolant - just regularly top it up. Folding mirrors cocked up years ago. Electric sliding door drivers side cable track has broken a wire, it also had a new one about 5 years ago. No - my electrical soldering isn't any good, I've tried it. Handbrake is predictably garbage. Built in DVD player has a mind of its own, but my girls are a bit older now have other devices to keep them entertained, thankfully. 3 water pumps, 2 power steering pumps, 2 ignition coils, radiator, rear calipers stick then get replaced (possibly another on the cards now!), a couple of door lock actuators, 2 complete front suspension struts (springs / dampers / top mounts), at least 2 sets of front suspension drop links, anti roll bar bushes, front wheel bearings, and I'm sure lots of others I'm blanking from memory! All minor, but still slightly annoying, given how much effort and parts I put into it when we bought it 8 years ago to make it pretty mint. Like you, though, we think it is still a great car when it's behaving for family !
    1 point
  10. Well many thanks chaps, however....... It's not the IOD fuse cos I took that out many moons ago. It's not rebooting the system cos that happens every morning when I reconnect the Battery. It's not Fuses Nos 5 and 20, cos they're now both out, and its not better. It's not (as someone else said to me) a dicky battery, as I changed that, and it's exactly the same. What I have discovered is :- that to lock it (noting the key fob now doesn't do anything) you have to sit in it with all doors closed and Ignition on. Then Lock it by pushing the switch on the door panel down, and it all locks. Turn ignition off, use the inside door handle to unlock the drivers door, and then get out. then lock the drivers door manually outside, and it's all then locked. A right pain...... Anyway, all the time it's running it's useable, even though this latest scene of events is somewhat annoying. I did read the riot act to it a couple of years ago after when I replaced the Thermostat and Radiator, with the threat that it would be going to meet the great recycler in the sky if it went wrong again, and in fairness it has behaved itself until very recently. I'm just optimistic that there's something silly that has failed, and that I can easily/cheaply sort it out, otherwise I can see my patience wearing thin if it continues to mess about.
    1 point
  11. Well, I found a £115 Alternator on fleabay, fitted it, and it works fine. Which is what I hoped for other than some silly wiring/electrical fault. So, the old girl soldiers on .
    1 point
  12. Cheers Nev, I'm fairly sure that a new Alternator will fix it, but it's just the buy an Alternator, buy a wiring loom, buy a fuse/relay box, buy something else, etc, etc, pathway, that I don't want to go down. I put a few feelers out to folk who know more than me, but I can see an Alternator on order by the end of the weekend .
    1 point
  13. Keith

    Battery Flat

    Reading this about the amp in the back i'd thought I better take a look. found a power lead about 8 foot long going to some sort of USB plug that was rusty and bloated, scotch blocked to the amp power lead, so that could be a lot of the drain (no fuse to be found anywhere). Next the towing socket....all scotch blocked again so this might be another source of the drain. Had enough for today so I ordered Tow bar bypass relay for Cambus vehicles. I'll see if I can do another test in the morning. ( I've also ordered the Car Battery Switch Isolator Terminal Quick Cut-off) Belt and Bracers
    1 point
  14. And rather unfortunately any advice is a little late, as this thread is over 7 years old........ From my experiences on the Subaru Outback forum, I believe in the USA you can run "carfax" checks which seem to quite often have service histories if the workshops have uploaded them. As you say @maxcaddy that doesn't exist in the UK!
    1 point
  15. ForzaLancia

    Delta anti roll bar bushes

    Powerflex do poly bushes too, limk below https://www.powerflex-shop.com/Powerflex-Polyurethane-PU-bushes-for-FIAT-BRAVO-II-198 HTH
    1 point
  16. Deltamike

    Delta anti roll bar bushes

    Yes they are the same. Numerous suppliers - Autodoc, ECP, ebay, dealer / independent etc. Online like here: Anti-roll Bar Bush Frt Fiat Bravo, Lancia Delta (07>) (shop4parts.co.uk) Whole new set up here: Front Anti Roll Bar Kit Inc Bushes Fits Lancia Delta FIAT Bravo Van Febi 38587 | eBay
    1 point
  17. RichardM

    Battery Flat

    Thought I'd drop this in from the manual... IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty-five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty-one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty-one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: ² Electrical items left on. ² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. ² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. ² An internally shorted generator. ² Intermittent shorts in the wiring. If the IOD is over twenty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected. (1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to twenty minutes. (2) Disconnect the battery negative cable. (3) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. (4) After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or non existent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or non existent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete Integrated Power Module fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or non existent, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low amperage IOD. CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged. (5) Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required;
    1 point
  18. If the stereo itself is not working when you switch it on, then it is most likely that the unit fuse (fitted in the back of the unit) has blown, replace it and test it. As regards reading files, Blue and Me is a separate system, as is the lighting and so forth
    1 point
  19. Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on
    1 point
  20. maxcaddy

    Aircon pump & Lights

    The 'track rod ends' ordered from Jeepchryslerparts midday Friday arrived the next day (saturday), that's phenomenal delivery performance and well worth praising. Anyway fitted them fairly easily, and put it in for a retest this afternoon. Lo and behold I now have a 12 month MoT on her, so she lives for another year . 4 tyres are going on Saturday, and then a re-tracking, and that should be good enough for another 12 mts/10,000 miles. For those old/interested enough to remember Faulty Towers, I have similar relationship with my GV to what Basil had with his 1100 whereby it's been threatened and clearly knows that if it seriously misbehaves, it'll be send to the big scrapyard in the sky .
    1 point
  21. maxcaddy

    Aircon pump & Lights

    Well after thinking that I had seized/stuffed Alternator bearings, the weather cleared today and I had a delve under the bonnet to discover that the Alternator was in fact fine, but the Aircon pump was seized solid. Haven't yet worked out why its solid as the drive to it is via a magnetic coupling, but seized solid it is. So, it looked like the easy fix was to bypass the pump and the idler wheel, and use a shorter drive belt running just the crank, tensioner, and Alternator. Shorter belt now ordered, and hopefully ready for collection tomorrow, fingers crossed. At the same time as the belt issue above happened, the offside Headlight unit also completely stopped working. A quick look in the fuse box next to the battery didn't seem to have any fuses or relays for the lights ?, so there must be a secondary fuse box hidden somewhere ? (answers gratefully received). Hopefully the old girl isn't dead yet, but certainly under very critical assessment.
    1 point
  22. maxcaddy

    Aircon pump & Lights

    Well not surprisingly it failed, but only on the N/S track rod end. I wouldn't mind but I changed them about 3 years/25,000 miles ago, and at the time didn't buy cheap and nasty eBay items, more like average cost ones . Anyway fail one did, so a pair from Jeepchryslerparts are on order. There were a few advisories especially with the tyres, but hey for 130,000 miles and 15 years, it could have been far worse Enthused with the potential success, I'll put 4 tyres on it, retest, and maybe get another year of life out of the old girl .
    1 point
  23. maxcaddy

    Aircon pump & Lights

    Okay half the problem fixed . The standard Aux drive belt is a 6PK1420. If you bypass the Aircon Compressor and the idler pulley above it, a 6PK1290 belt works but there is only 6mm clearance between the run of the belts, and at tickover they just kiss together. Using a 6PK1275 belt gives 22mm clearance between the runs, and other than being tight to squeeze on works fine. So instead of having to buy another compressor just to be 'in circuit' for £40 I have a working solution, which if I had been more luckier/accurate would have only been £20. If I had to do it again or if someone else has the problem, then I would suggest using a 6PK1280 belt which will give adequate clearance. and be a shade easier to fit. The hardest part of the job is taking off (& putting on) the 'elasticated' power steering belt which when working in the drive, in January, wasn't the easiest of tasks, but competed satisfactorily all the same . Now to look at why the lights pack up...............
    1 point
  24. RichardM

    Aircon pump & Lights

    FCU is on the n/s in front of the IPM (the thing that house the fuses and relays), it's an aluminium box. I don't think you'll have hit it but you nay have caught a cable.(see image)
    1 point
  25. RichardM

    Alarm when unlocked.

    I believe the horn lives behind the n/s headlamp assembly and you are right it is a separate unit (VSS). For the time being the alarm is behaving itself and it's too friggin cold to start investigating at present. As for auto electricians they believe Grand Voyagers are the Devil's work and would prefer to stick their hands in pre heated frying pan and I can understand why. (Page 1257 of the RG-Body.pdf manual shows the location of the alarm horn)
    1 point
  26. maxcaddy

    Alarm when unlocked.

    I believe the alarm horn is a separate unit to the main horns ?. If so, and if you can find where it is, simply cut the wires to it. The flashers keeping going isn't such a pain. If you do find exactly where it is please post on here, as I get that now and then and will happily cut mine. I don't care if it makes it more stealable, or that the insurance might not like it. What self respecting toe rag is going to steal a 15 year old V'ger ? Other than that perhaps there's an alarm fault code that could be read ?, or visit an auto electrician, or live with it. Even with the elevated 2nd hand value of cars at the moment, an old V'ger with issues isn't worth very much at all .
    1 point
  27. maxcaddy

    2nd gear slipping

    Unfortunately you don't say how many miles it's done, which would be a good indicator as to whether or not it's even worth the cost of changing the oil . If say we're talking 150 - 175K, then maybe an oil change and filter will save the box. If it's more than say 200K you'll be very lucky IMHO. If you only bought it 2 weeks ago it is unbelievable that the previous owner didn't know there was a problem, and as such sold you a dud. A few words need to be exchanged.
    1 point
  28. Sentech

    Limp Mode

    Long story, 2.8 CRD 2007, New head gasket (correct size and properly torqued), eight valve lifters, new top end gasket set, new water pump, timing belt and pulleys, fitted at 90 degrees after TDC using camshaft and crankshaft locking pins. Now the sad part: First start ok ....... will not accelerate beyond 2500 rpm. Stripped it it all down again (except the head gasket), reassembled ............. same story The damn thing is in "Limp Mode" PNDR123 all have little green squares indicating this fact. The engine work was done in situ and I didn't touch the gearbox. ANY IDEAS ????
    1 point
  29. ben

    Forum Upgrade

    I know it's been a while (a very long while) - but I got hold of the latest software version, so here you all go!
    1 point
  30. Hi everyone. I'm a lifetime fan of American cars and owned many. For me, the GV is the best MPV even though it's an 04, I've owned it from new and it has served me well. JollyJack (JJ)
    1 point
  31. ferrysider

    'o7 Crossfire Roadster

    Hello Everyone, As of yesterday, the proud owner of a Crossfire! Desperate to get the top down but it hasn't stopped raining all day! :-( Happy to be part of the forum - have waited years to get this car! Bodywork is lovely for its age, but I hope it is as good under the bonnet! Got a three month warranty, but guarantee something will go wrong after three months and one day. :-) Ferrysider.
    1 point
  32. RichardM

    Alternator Help

    Just an update on that £80.00 alternator I bought from ebay. It's great. Waited till now 'cause I wanted to make sure it lasted more than a couple of days. It works great, charges at 14.2 when the battery's down at 12.2 volts before starting ( I do leave her for a few days sometimes), then goes down as the battery charges. (I do not have the temp mod). The advert says 160Amp which concerned me originally but it certainly does the job and doesn't appear to be overcharging the battery (Optima Redtop [AGM]). Just an adjunct on the battery. When I bought the car the battery wasn't charging properly so bought a new (as above) battery. With the poor starting also bought one of these magic chargers that repairs duff batteries. Plugged it into the old battery and after a couple of days and a couple of repair mode attempts Voila! battery was back up to charge and holding charge. -> It now sits in the old girl with the new one powering the bought for spares one until I get around to changing them back.
    1 point
  33. RichardM

    Limp Mode

    Assuming there are no knocks on running this is probably an electrical fault.Check for shorts or o/c. There's an awful lot of cables that go across the head, including the accelerator sensor cable. Suggest check if any cables have been caught during the strip, rebuild. I had an intermittent short on this particular cable and it caused all PNDR123 to light up. A short on cable can cause strange things to happen on this vehicle& prove a bugger to track down.
    1 point
  34. Thanks or the reply Andy, the Pressure Relief Valve was changed some months ago before finding the original cold or warm no go was caused by the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing had a split diaphragm. Any idea how accessible the crank and speed sensors are AND.. why does it kick off straight away when wafted with some Quick-Start ? dur...............
    1 point
  35. Just had mine out to do the head gasket. A liberal soak in WD 40 overnight and a couple of gentle taps with a plastic hammer and they came out easy.
    1 point
  36. Just read another one of your posts, you're in Spain. I'll get you some measurements
    1 point
  37. HI if it's like our 2013 Black/red it didn't come with a spare wheel but a 12v inflator + a can of puncture seal to fit onto a nozzle on the pump. Which was no use at all when a tyre side wall got slashed and car had to be recovered. Thought about getting a spare but figured recovery is still a good option as getting to old for roadside maintenance...
    1 point
  38. Sentech

    2.8 Crd Cutting Out

    Sounds Like dirt in the fuel tank to me
    1 point
  39. If there is any wear in the suspension setup at all the tracking will only be based on where the car has settled. for instance a worn track rod will give different reading depending on how it's at rest. Obviously a respectable/honest outfit would say to you that there was wear, and that they couldn't guarantee the setting, but in my experience such places are nowadays few and far between, and if the name starts with 'Kwik anything' be very beware..........
    1 point
  40. maxcaddy

    Braking Problem

    Excluding issues with the brake servo, which I (fortunately) haven't had to touch, so consequently I have no knowledge of what's what in that department. In my case having the ABS warning light on and TRAC off were specifically associated with the ABS wheel sensor(s). ABS issues are not always straightforward, but are usually associated with a few typical failures, and crap discs, crap/clogged relucters, and front brake sensors are the most likely. That said, the rear sensors, and a shed load of other problems are not impossible. Again in my case, I had a ABS failure light about 4 years ago, I replaced one tatty looking front sensor which made no difference, then replace a perfectly good looking sensor to have the problem magically resolve itself. This year a light came on I immediately order both front sensors (about £30 off of eBay) and the lights gone out. Okay maybe overkill, but you don't need yer GV in the garage for too long to have a bill far greater than what its worth.
    1 point
  41. It will be the spindles that connect the actuator motors to the direction and heat flaps. They get brittle over time and snap, about £8 each but quire a lot of dismantling to get to. Same as a Fiat Bravo and there are some YouTube videos, much worse if LHD though. Replace as many as you can while it's in bits. HTH
    1 point
  42. Wuvz

    Instrument Cluster Removal

    I've recently bought an Ypsilon SE Twin Air and the centre display in the gauges is flickering - the display itself works but the lighting is intermittent so it's not always legible. I'm assuming this is a dodgy contact somewhere but I'm not sure how to get the instrument cluster out of the dash without damaging it - I can't see any screws so assume it clips into place but given the quality of the plastics in that area I don't want to just attack it with a screwdriver or it'll probably never go back in. Does anybody know the "proper" way of doing it?
    1 point
  43. RichardM

    Alternator Help

    We seem to have moved away from alternators (problem solved with £80 ish alternator) and onto what appears to be the major problem with the GVs or this 2.8 CRD engine in particular i.e. fuel related issues. I have had problems ever since buying the old girl (Dec 2019), I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a new pump, problem is I am not 100% convinced it is the pump, if it was I would expect a more consistent fault ? I think I'll open a new (repeat) thread on this issue.
    1 point
  44. maxcaddy

    Alternator Help

    Okay, not whishing to hijack this post as my knowledge of Alternators is next to zero other than many years ago I had a doggy Alternator tested in a 'Lucas' test shop to say it was the 'Diode' ? which was only a 1/3rd of the cost of a new one. Which I then bought and fitted (2 wires) for it then not to work and the shop say that something else was wrong, which couldn't have been diagnosed until the Diode fault had been cleared. Consequently from that day on, whenever it arose I have simply replace a dodgy one with a new/rebuilt one, and while I haven't change my GV one, it looks to be a very straightforward job. That said, my GV does have an Alternator fault whereby the battery drains after about 3 days which I think is a 'leak' through the Alternator. My solution was to buy a Battery terminal isolator for a few £s off of eBay, which other than the slight inconvenience has worked well for nearly 2 years So onto RichardM's issue, when I say pump's output, it's the 'Injection System I'm talking about, inasmuch as it's common rail diesel CRD implying that the 'injection system' is always pressurised ready for each injector to fire. If the system is not pressurising it's either the common rail (high) pressure pump letting by or the lift pump letting by (could be same pump) (I'm not that knowledgeable). Or, it's allowing/letting in air when at rest, which then needs purging on starting from such as a fuel rail leak, or leaky (perished) feedbacks from the Injectors, or leaky filter, etc. There is also a bizarre fault mode (on some cars) whereby it messes about starting depending on whether you have the car facing uphill or downhill . Other indications of fuel delivery issues are how well its running and (especially) for starting how much and what smoke comes out the back, although in your case the easystart will make that diagnosis difficult .
    1 point
  45. maxcaddy

    Alternator Help

    £1000 ouch, ouch, ouch, that would be enough to have mine be on it's way to the great scrappy in the sky Surely as they are a popular engine for many models, especially campervans, there will be some local 'diesel' expert who can check your pumps output as a first step .
    1 point
  46. Sentech

    Engine Removal

    I've got my 2.8 stripped down right now. I don't believe the engine would come out thru the from the front there just isn't he space. What are you planning to do ? In situ I have the head off, exhaust manifold and Turbo.
    1 point
  47. Parcel

    My Chunky Mpv.

    Hi, havin had a Kia Sedona for nearly 8 years last March (until the gearbox went). So finally when lockdown ended last Aug, started lookin around for something similar. I found this. Everything I want in an large MPV, and more. I'm loving it, been on few long distance trips, already...
    1 point
  48. You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.
    1 point
  49. bignev

    Side Light Bulb

    Hi Richard! No, there's never been any problems with the LED's for side lights, or the cheap aftermarket HID Xenons I swapped in for the headlight low beams. The light switch on the earlier models 2001 up to 2005 were indeed backlit illuminated, I had 2 of them, but not our later ones. It annoyed me enough in the early months of ownership of this one that I sourced the older version with the fittings and bulbs and figured out which wire it needed to link across to light it up. The previous model also had 2 lights on each of the vanity mirrors in the sun visor, that were dimmable. I changed them too.
    1 point
  50. Mikey

    Dualogic Gearbox Issues

    I recently purchased two 2012 Ypsilon twinair with dualogic, one each for wifey and me. One had gearbox issues just two weeks after purchase, this was repaired under the used car warranty - apparently requiring the replacement of the gearbox actuator. After a year of ownership, the second car started having the same problems. As it is out of warranty and the cost of the repair on the other car was about £1500 I thought I would see if I could repair it. Success (details below), I know there are not many dualogic Ypsilons in the UK, but if this post helps one other owner it will of been worth it. :-) Symptoms: Gears unavailable message when stationary and stuck in neutral, randomly getting stuck in gear under braking with no throttle and then gears unavailable message and stuck in neutral when stopped. This mostly happened from a cold start and when the car had been running for less than 30 minutes, dependent on outside temperature. DTCs: P060A, P2917, P2916, P1742 in various combinations. Cause: There is a small aluminium piston in a bore behind the black cover at the back of the actuator (near the bulkhead). It needs to be able to move backwards and forwards freely as this motion is the same as moving the gearstick in a manual car from side to side to align to 1st or 2nd, 3rd or 4th, 5th or reverse. If there is dirt in the bore, movement is not free resulting in incorrect location of the piston and hence the failure. Solution: I flushed it out with a can of brake cleaner and then regreased the pins before closing it up again. I also removed the solenoid from the side of the bore and cleaned that, if you do this be careful not to lose the little spring from inside. Considerations: My car is almost 5 years old and started having this problem a couple of months ago. My wife has the same car and had the same issue just after she purchased it at just over 3 years old and 13,000 miles. The actuator on my wife's car was replaced under warranty, but it probably just needed cleaning. I don't believe a drop of oil in the bore would cause an issue, but there was a lot of aluminium sludge caused by wear from the back and forth movement. It is a simple job to do and so for me, I will just check / clean / regrease as required once a year. Hope this helps others with dualogic issues. :-)
    1 point
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