bignev

Aha you should be alright then!! No there isn't an actual technical section, it's all the posts in the particular vehicle assistance sections, and yes there is somewhere a downloadable technical manual but I can't remember where it might be. Somewhere in those posts a cracking bloke Qinteq used to link to them, if I come across it I'll ping it to you! Fingers crossed you got a good one!

Try a search on wheelfitment.eu but be wary of the offset too!

Hi there! Yes - are you any good at car maintenance? Read the vehicle assistance section of the forum to get an idea of the little foibles it will quite likely present you! Cheers! Nev

And rather unfortunately any advice is a little late, as this thread is over 7 years old........ From my experiences on the Subaru Outback forum, I believe in the USA you can run "carfax" checks which seem to quite often have service histories if the workshops have uploaded them. As you say @maxcaddy that doesn't exist in the UK!

Cracking result Richard! The reason I could think of, is an engineering one, for a shoulder larger than the thread, is for a tight fit to the base of wheel hole that the tread passes through, to give more resistance to the (very small) chance of rotational movement. As the studs are not a "fixed" position, pressed in from the back, when lazy tyre fitters chuck the wheel on and whizz it up with the air gun, if it's slightly out it could also disturb the stud. Yes, I agree that's what happens all the time and ALMOST never a problem, but often enough those studs get loose and then the garage or tyre shop need the engineering shop to fit a new stud! And ultimately, above any other reasons or discussion, the originals had them. Many cars don't, these did.

I'm not at home so can't get under the bonnet to check mine, but have you read the lid of the relay and fuse box? Next tk the battery? But it might not be that, could be the Powertrain Control Module not doing its bit. Try a general tinterweb search, I just turned up a bit of info on an American site. The unit on the gearbox is the solenoid pack, which is a different animal.

Yep at only a few months old ot shouldn't have died...... Bur as qinteq used to say - its a lifestyle and usage type result. Too many starts and not enough run time will take it right down, and as you say if it's git that drain as well its got a problem!

I got a pair from those guys and the studs had no shoulders at all on the base of the threads, so I returned them, no problem for a refund I'll give them that.

Hello again! Well as I said on the other section, mine is petrol, but I had a Kia Sedona with a "wind over but not start" problem, and fine with a sniff of easy start, or other such spray! Mine was ultimately the injectors, but that seems to be a rarity on the Voyager. More possible to be the fuel filter housing cracking, or the fuel pressure non return valve. But hopefully the diesel guys will be along soon to chip in with actual Chrysler experience! Cheers, Nev

You're in the wrong section of the forum, repost in the Vehicle assistance section fir help! But - wild guess lith limited info, NO ignition could be the coil or its connection failing when hot, certainly if it sits over the exhaust manifold like mine does. I've had 3 coils, but it only failed on 2 cylinders at a time!

Hi Paul and welcome! Posting queries for help in the vehicle assistance section, generation 4 or 5 in your case, depends on your exact model, would be the way to get the attention of the guys with diesel experience, mines petrol!

I don't know how easy it will be, but I reckon the studs should be swappable. When I did mine I had real trouble getting ones that had shouldered bottoms on the studs for the wheel, I surrendered eventually and just went with the best I could get. Got lucky and came across a Mopar one but not the other. Been a few years and not been a big deal as far as I can tell.

Well done for finding that write up instructions pal!! But yes the Lion is a eurocarparts cheapo. Had one on my Subaru Outback when I bought it, 55ah, 480 cold cranking amps. In fairness to it, it lasted nearly 3 years before it gave a problem, but the Subaru is petrol. Anyhow, the new one is 65ah, 580 cca, and you can't half tell the difference on starting up!

I presume you figured out the rotary switch on the headlamp panel? Puts the courtesy lights to: Off Auto with doors alters brightness And puts on the rear 6 lights but not the ones on the centre front overhead Then if I remember right, the brightness of the front dash and clocks But be wary, you can then inadvertently leave them on, not ignition switched. I'm not at home so can't double check that sequence!

Yep Richard has the correct approach there, don't do it!! Andy B I think was the guy, electronics seem to be his passion, and I don't think that ultimately he sorted it!! Chuffin yanks..... Or get a replacement head unit that used to appear on ebay, and if it doesn't do what it said - fire it back!

Just putting out my old experience on our 2002, started throwing in the abs when coming up to a junction, even though it was gentle braking. I think it didn't actually put on the abs light, but it's 6 years ago so I can't be totally sure. Anyhow, I used my garden hose to take off some crud on the reluctor rings [abs sensor rings] and it behaved for a bit. Then when it came back I pulled the abs relay (not the fuse or the car wouldn't start!) till I got the stub axles and reluctor rings replaced. So - maybe the tyre fitter has inadvertently disturbed some crud as they wallop the wheel on and off, and its got on one of the ridges and looks iffy to the computer??

Hi there! Possibly www.moparwholesale.com could be a help? If yours is pre 2004, then 5019219AD could be it, there are pictures on the site, but that is discontinued as a new part.

Not bad at all!!! I did our track rod ends, twice, and like you paid more than a pound! Still didn't last. Nor did the front drop links, or anti roll bar bushes. And the new pair of complete struts on the front are getting noticeably tired again, the front end gently scrapes a couple of the speed bumps on the way to our house if you don't remember to crawl over them.

I second Richards request to the moderators - please remove these very unwelcome posts!!

I forgot to pass comment on your offside sliding door not unlocking. It is quite likely the lock actuator, easy enough to test if a bit time consuming, swap the actuator from the nearside door, you won't need to actually fit it into the door to prove the point, simply plug it into the connector and see if it works when on the offside door. If it does you need a new one! But if it will already lock and unlock with the other controls, get in the fusebox in the engine bay and pull out the IOD fuse for half an hour to reset the electronic brains.

I wish I had the remotest idea on this!!! On ours that led goes out when it recognises the key transponder.

If the fob won't work at all, if you can find an AUTO LOCKSMITH, they will be able to pair the fob and car. Even if they were never paired before. I had a second hand 5 button remote added to ours. The one to lock / unlock, and also control the boot and both sliding doors remotely. Oh ours is a 2006 Ltd XS, the earlier models I had only had 2 button remotes, so it'll depend what year yours is as to which remote it should have.

On the car locking the doors while driving, it is settable on the overhead console. But if its just started doing it that's weird!! I set ours to do it for security years ago, locks at approx 20mph, if you unlock them it will re-lock when you set off again. Without looking I can't be sure, but I seem to remember that there's also a setting for "unlock one" or "unlock all" , and I guess you don't have access to an owners manual? I'll try to remember to have a look at ours when home later. But otherwise yes it's the black magic that is Chrysler Voyager electrics, even Harry Potter can't figure that out!!!!

Well, it's a nuisance, but unless you have a nice friendly MOT station, the process would be similar to what we used to do with "free flowing" motorcycle exhausts. Put the legal one on for the MOT day, and run the other 364 days with the one you like. If you have somewhere undercover and lit it's not a problem, or if your test is in the spring or summer then the weather while you do the swap stands a chance of being nicer!!