bignev

Nope - "Vehicle assistance" then "Chrysler Delta" section

You're very welcome, and good luck!

Hi @@jhr, try posting in the vehicle assistance section for your car, not all members check all the areas! There are a couple of guys who really seem to know their stuff on the Delta, and I think one is in Ireland.

I'm so sorry that it's ended up this way for you pal. And I agree with you on modern electronics, ok when they're new (mostly - but that's a whole other story) but garbage on a lot of stuff after only a few years. Never mind, the manufacturer made their big money and it met all the lovely environmental requirements hey.

Hi there and welcome aboard! If we start with a very simple, not positively a cure but it's simple so let's give it a go thing. As you said sliding doors - both - aren't locking it probably isn't just one of the locking actuators. So - remove the fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay marked IOD, Ignition Off Draw, for a good 30 minutes, and it just might possibly reset the Body Control Module. It may not but it's worth a go. Or pull the negative lead off the battery. And it's better to post questions in the vehicle assistance sections as not all of us bother looking in all the sections!

Good end result mate! Slightly confused as to why there would be a deposit on a new injector, but hey who cares. I can understand if they were refurbished so the company then still have stock. Thankfully as we all thought that is NOT where it's come to!! Well I don't put too much faith in most MOT tests sadly, can go one way or the other. My van had "severely" worn rear pads in July 2018, it's still on them 11,000 miles later. I did check them at that time, and were only worn down by 1mm from new..........

Ah yes changing the stereo unit is also jolly blooming challenging. I think there's been a couple of threads discussing it previously, not at all an easy job. I've seen head units claiming to be compatible but not come across anyone who can verify that for fact!

Yep unfortunately it seems that the vast majority need the remote to turn the dvd screen on, and luminova11 is definitely an exception. Could you tell us which button you use to bring the screen on? Mine needs the headphone button pressing on the remote, every time, even if the dvd is playing and I start the car - screen goes off - press button to get it back on. Mine is the multi dvd / cd type, with sat nav screen. Sadly can't help with any cheap options, but they come up on ebay.

OK good info above! On mine if the revs are increased just a little the rattle goes away. It will be interesting to see if a fresh oil change has any impact on yours.

Ah yes quite cold! I wouldn't know how much having injectors done would cost for yours, but a quick search on ebay came up with a few "refurbished" (to what extent is anyones guess) at £230 EACH!!! New ones were coming in at over £400 EACH.......!!!!!!! That buys a heck of a lot of fuel! But I believe the Webasto heater runs on diesel so yes that will be a factor, but not all year, only operates under certain temperature conditions. Some of the guys more knowledgeable on the operation of it will help on that I'm sure!

Trying to be positive about it, even down in Portugal the ambient temperature will have dropped a bit over the last few months, which will affect the fuel consumption, more so on short journeys. A colder engine uses more fuel. And winter diesel is different too - but I have NO idea if you get that, probably not, but I don't know if you're North or South and ever see freezing conditions. Just my opinion, but if it runs well without excess smoke, starts fine, and no problems at any running conditions then it's not over likely to have damaged injectors. Of course you may have had it years, I don't know that level of detail, and the fuel use has not been this low before at this time of year. But if you have had it a while have you always filled the tank? If not then there's no comparison to be had sadly. And at 2 to 3 mpg worse yes it's costing you money, but at low miles per year (guessing again here because of the 10km journey, but you could do it many times a day.....) then that actual cost may not be that high? And it's relative cost compared to a set of refurbished or new injectors?

Hi again @@thomassen7 , just been idling away a few minutes this morning and had a thought. On mine I did also change the auxiliary pulleys and tensioner, one was a very tiny bit whistly, not much but even I could hear it and I've got dodgy hearing. Do you know if they've ever been changed, given its age not mileage? Also has the cambelt and pulleys been done? The 2.4 has them, mine is chain driven with tensioners.

I'm not an oil expert, but I'd check what temperatures the oil grades say they are suitable for, the bottom end being the most important one in your situation for cold engine starts. A very quick search reckons the 5w is good down to -30C. However I guess that even 10w 60 possibly covers it if your local warehouse are selling it!??? Maybe summer only though hey! But from my experience it's unnecessarily thick at the hot range end. I had no change in the noise on 10w40, none at all.

Not ideal but not too horrendous at that. Every 2.5 or 2.9 (no Chryslers by the way) diesel I've owned has been around the 25 to 26 mark, or under, unless it has been on a good run. How up to date is it on service stuff, namely the air filter? And have you got any sticking brakes? Are tyre pressures good?

Hi there! My current 3.3 does that, but the previous 2 models didn't do it. It's on 5w30, but I've tried 10w40 as I was also concerned when I first got it. But a lot milder in the UK than where you are!!! I wouldn't worry too much, mines been at it for 40,000 miles now, up at 129,000. I can only guess but on mine it could be the valve mechanisms, ancient tech - overhead valve - not cam - and pushrods. Or it could be the chain drive for the cam, I'm not remotely tempted to tackle that. However definitely give it an oil and filter change, or if it's cheap enough and the old stuff has been in for a while, and looks horribly black, or hasn't been done too often in its life, do it twice within a small number of miles. But don't use an oil flush additive, because if it's never been done before you can disturb gloopy crud that you don't want to shift too quickly, better to dilute it slowly over a few oil changes.

This is the current one with 18" wheels, 245 45 tyres

AHA! Got it, but had to faf around to get it to a lesser quality to be small enough to be able to attach it. Flippin heck! Those are 17" wheels with 225 55 tyres by the way.

Yeah that's as bad as my petrol 3.3, pretty rubbish! But fuel on it is 57 pence a litre.......... I wouldn't have thought that - if as you say - it's running fine, the injectors have been damaged. You say "a bit off" what did you used to get?

Hi there! As you say it looks high at the back, somehow! The roof line is quite sloped from the back isn't it. But from an old picture of my 2002 3.3 it doesn't particularly look low at the front, at the wheel arch, just angled a bit more so the bumper is nearer to the deck than mine was. I'm trying to remind myself and figure out after all these years how to post that picture! Has it possibly had replacement dampers at the back that are longer than standard? Leaf springs are not so likely to have been messed with I'd hope! What tyre size are on it? Probably right but they just look a little low profile. Standard are 215 x 65 16" if I remember rightly.

Yep stuck EGR = too much exhaust recirc through engine = lots of smoke = big black smoke if gunned on set off Difficult to see when driving but easy when sat idle, You've blanked it before what do you have to lose as an experiment!! Just because the egr valve has been changed doesn't mean it can't soot up and stick. Generally injectors would mean various characteristics - difficulty starting, poor fuel economy, overfueling at various parameters giving engine management light, amongst many others as you infer, but you say it drives great.

Ruddy hell pal you are being dealt a pile of poo to deal with!! I thought we had some crap over a few years! That company are coincidentally just a few miles up the road from me! Don't know them or ever heard of them, but the pictures seem to show an independent outlet. I got an alternator for my petrol 3.3 from West Lancs auto electrics in Preston around 4 1/2 years ago, so far so good! Their website may not give you a price, I've just tried with my reg, but they have a lovely old fashioned phone number type thing too - I remember that's how I ordered mine.

Hiya Roy, I'm very pleased to hear the news on the treatment for your daughter, I sincerely hope it works for her!

The ones I saw when I checked earlier were new, around £45, and the drivers side was available !

I changed ours a couple of years ago, also drivers side, got the whole assembly, a bit fiddly but not as much of a nightmare as I thought it was going to be. Folding the thing to get it out / back in was wierd for me as I'd never done one before, but once I figured which way it would work in it was pretty ok. As per usual they are still on ebay for not bad money! As they are not Mopar the motor probably wouldn't swap over if you tried to make it a smaller job, most likely end up a bigger effort than doing the whole thing.!!

Hiya @@gordy - yes you're quite right with the comment on the clearance, make sure it's the correct brand of fags or it'll go tits up Metric? Bah humbug, I'm still in BTU's for heat, old bugger.