bignev

Too right matey!! Thin aluminium sheet rolled round it, and black high temperature sealant from my local Autofactors. Marvellous. I think I'm due under there again soon sadly...... It's just had its FOURTH water pump too! One when I got it 9 years ago, about 80,000 miles, one done by me - never again, one done by my mate just under a year ago, and one a month ago. I've bought cheap, and I've bought dear, doesn't make a jot of difference to this thing!! Some radweld too, let's see how long it doesn't use coolant for this time. Have you got a stop watch?

Sadly, Richard is probably right. But, give it a go - disconnect the battery for half an hour, as a few of those circuits will reset this way. I would say pull the IOD fuse, but in this case go the whole hog. There are also the fuses under the steering wheel as well as the box under the bonnet, just check them all and hope something has done its job and protected things!

Hiya there! I have the same situation, same car, nothing in the UK. So either one of the stainless steel make one on the car companies, or a fortune from the States. Yep. I've carried on bodging it so far!!

Well, it's 8 years on, but the above still stands! Good luck with it!

Hi there, try mopar.com Good Luck

Hi Dave, I wish I could, but absolutely no idea on yours. Ours is at the front of the engine, but it bears no resemblance to yours sadly!

I had a similar one on the Grand Voyager. The light stayed on at very low revs, bring them up a little and it went off. When the engine is running, dip the oil, if it's NOT on the dipstick then the pump is at least sending it round the engine. My knowledge of oil pumps doesn't extend to if they "wear out" and give poor pressure or circulation volume, but my problem was the oil pressure sensor.

I've got my fingers crossed that a fluid change helps you! As, from my own experience, even with NO communication to the Transmission Control Module, I still had 2nd and reverse gears.

On Chrysler part numbers I have found that superceded, or newer, numbers go from say AB to AC to AF, you should get the idea.

Not unlocked properly via the motor? And the internal handle then moves the mechanism far enough so the motor can engage?

Ah, I'm at a loss there, very odd. I reckon you need a proper auto locksmith, and they could cut you a second key at the same time. If you have the one fob, get a second hand one off ebay or wherever and they can code it to the car at the same time, I had one done for ours years ago. They will need a code from Fiat Chrysler, so they have to be a good company.

Super! Yep, the vehicle assistance section, although as I said there isn't a lot of active members anymore!

From what I guess from your post, remove the IOD fuse for half an hour and have your fingers crossed. And put it in the technical help section.

I think you have answered it yourself - water over electrics. Not at all good. Dry it and then move onward. You hopefully know that the transmission fluid is checked with the engine running and hot? Oh and post in the correct section, the forum is nearly dead anyway!

Hi Chris! If you've been lucky it will have stopped being an arse an started talking again, but if not, I was going to suggest removing the IOD Ignition Off Draw fuse, but on thinking about it, that has effectively been done by taking the battery off...... Let us know please!

And PLEASE DO let us know if it works, that's how forums develop. This one is nearly dead already.

Who knows. It was 4 years ago and he was never heard from again.

A world of mither. Search long threads from long ago, AndyB tried, he's an electronics engineer, it's a world of mither. Amplifier can be located anywhere they felt like on the day it was made. Just don't. Sorry!

Hi there, I think it's just a bit of a coincidence, sadly, as the gearbox has input and output speed sensors on the 41TE auto on ours, and to my knowledge that's how it gets the feed for the speedometer. However, I stand to be corrected!! The wheel sensors are for the abs system. So it's very odd your speedo is now out of sync. Perhaps the old trick of disconnecting the battery for half an hour might help the electronic brains to reset? @gordy may have an idea on it? Hey pal!!?

Yeah..... I don't know if you are using your phone or not, but if you look at the forum on a laptop, you'll see the dates on replies and sections. The 5th generation is a very inactive section. I used to think it was because they were more reliable than the 4th Gen, which are ruddy awful, but maybe it's because there are so few of them. Anyway, good luck with it!

Hi there! I thought they were for the rad fans, but that's just from reading on here, mine's a petrol model. So, you've had the cheek to fix something on it, now the car clearly wants more attention. Mine always does. However, try the easy, quite often successful, trick of removing the IOD fuse for around 30 minutes, and it resets the Body Control Module. Let us know how you go on!

look at www.rockauto.com and it's the Town & Country model

Glad you got that one sorted! Yes, it really is one thing leading to another non these ungrateful toads of cars. Certainly mine is.

If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston. But other than that standard knowledge, unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

Hi there! Yes, try looking at rockauto.com they will easily ship from the US to the UK, just had a look and for a 2001 Voyager, not Town & Country that's the Grand Voyager, they have several different suppliers available. Quite often you need to play around with the site, as some things are MUCH less carriage than others, same item from a different supplier. The one I came up with was a UAC part number CN4957PFC, and with all carriage and duties paid you could have it in 3 days on FedEx for a total of £136.29. Some of the others may be even cheaper!! Good Luck