bignev

Great stuff! Well done!

DOUBLE POST!

Hi there! From the photo, not the diagram, I think that part is at the back left of the engine when looking into the engine bay, as it looks like it's near the brake master cylinder. In which case, it's at the back of the water pump. I have had at least 3 on mine, in 8 years. The rubber cap however, I sorted out with a silicone hoses cap, I'm sorry but I can't remember the size. I do remember trying to put a clamp on the original and made it leak faster!! I had to take off the original, measure it - not easy - then order up the new one. I may have got the other sizes close to what I thought, as they weren't expensive, to know once I got under it again I'd be able to do it. Good luck!

Hi there! I presume that you mean the boot / tailgate lift motor? Nope, not common, I don't recall ever hearing of that failure on here. I'd get one from a breaker as you say, if lasts a few years then it might outlast the rest of the car! Or if you're definitely in it to keep it going for the long term, get 2! BUT - my tailgate will open by hand, and stay open, nothing to do with the motor, so maybe what you actually need is the gas struts that support it when it's open.

Have you tried Rockauto in the USA?

I would have thought that an ABS fault code should be readable by any good OBD2 reader? You could risk a tenner on one of the wifi items on ebay, I did, works on my Subaru, but I haven't had the need to try it on my Voyager, which isn't the same as yours so the result wouldn't be relevant sadly.

If it's a petrol, just get the scuttle panel off and get stuck in. I've done ours twice. not too hard, but a bugger to get the belt back on!!

I thought my van took a lot at 8 litres!!! But that gets 10w40 semi synthetic, buy it in 20 litre drums and changed way too often, and flushed. Get that horrible soot contaminated oil out! I've had it 17 years, from new, and it's had a great many oil changes, so it's not a risky thing to do, I'm not going to dislodge any massive built up sludge! As there isn't any! The inside of my engine is nice and clean!! I also buy the 5w30s from my local autofactors in 20 litre drums, it's still dear even that way at £80 recently. It was £66 start of last year. It's not a big name brand, however it does meet all current specs, and it doesn't stay in either of my cars for more than 5000 miles, that's just my choice. I've had something similar on the oil warning light, with oil getting too thin when really hot, but at lower revs, a few years ago on a Subaru Impreza WRX. An oil and filter change sorted it, but that was a very high performance turbo engine, I had used an everyday synthetic oil of the correct grade that was not up to the job. I went back to Mobil 1 Motorsport, can't remember the grade but quite thick, maybe 15w50. It went 11 years ago to make way for our first GV when our twins were on the way. Half the horsepower, and twice the weight.... Our petrol Grand Voyager did the opposite when the pressure switch was failing, on at low revs but fine at higher rpm. I deduced it wasn't the oil pump as there was no oil on the dipstick while the engine was running so it was clearly pumping it around at idle!

On my petrol engine, that has an oil pressure switch, not sensor, so it's either happy or not, it doesn't read the pressure it just makes the circuit if it reaches the pre set value. Till it fails!! And of course it did. Got more likely to put the light on over a few weeks, but I knew the oil pump was working, as the oil level on the dipstick dropped lots when the engine was running, so I didn't panic! I don't know where it is on the diesel, sadly. Easy ish on mine, front of block behind rad.

You could well be unlucky and yes the transmission has given up, but maybe not. Possibly start with clutching at straws, a fluid change, and maybe Lucas transmission additive, it's supposed to help with older boxes and the clutch parts. On the OBD reading, there are now very cheap little boxes on ebay that work, plug in to the port and it sets up a local wifi field. Load the app and you're good to go! It will read loads of parameters and the codes, not sure on a GV if it would read transmission codes, it did on my Subaru of the same year, but that doesn't mean a thing with Chrysler! Obviously it won't do some stuff, but they are CHEAP, so well worth a try. I paid around £10, yes that's not a typo, TEN POUNDS.

Marvellous!!

Hi guys! In answer to the question, does anyone have a perfect GV? We had one close to it, a 2002 3.3 petrol. Bought it at 10 years old, 66,000 miles, one owner, proper full service records. The LX low spec model.... So, for 3 years, mint!! Then it had a little electronic fall out with the TCM and BCM. In short, never bottomed it. Had second gear, reverse, neutral and park. Then ot went for parts. On this subject, is the turbo inlet pipe rubber? Or any on the inlet side? If so , check it hasn't de-laminated and on full boost - read suction - is collapsing in on itself. I've heard of it a couple of times on other cars. This will obviously not give any fault codes as nothing electronic has gone tits up. There is usually a MAF sensor (air flow rate) on the inlet side, a MAP sensor for the positive side (Manifold Absolute Presuure), and boost pressure sensors. But not usually anything to sense the suction side negative pressure......

Hi there @majicmanda! By sheer chance I spotted your post, in the 300C section! Anyway, if you find this reply, I would either try your local autofactors, or ebay -probably easier and cheaper now there are not many of these around at all!

If you look inside the lid, on mine, it has a printed layout to ID them all. Hopefully the diesel does too.

Or perhaps easier to take a feed from the cigar lighter supply that's on with the ignition? Not the other that's permanently live!

Hidden behind the glove box?

Aha! In that case, definitely don't waste money on the fluid before you swap the solenoid pack! Let us know how things go!

Ok then, if it was doing the hard shifts prior to the transmission fluid change, (sorry, yes I missed that on your first post!) then maybe it has something to do with the solenoid pack getting too hot - but that really is a blind guess without any basis. They're not a total nightmare to change, but are awkward. It sits on top of the gearbox, at the front. I don't know what's in the way on a diesel, my petrol wasn't too camouflaged. Or if the fluid was never changed before, perhaps try another fluid and filter change first??

It's a "Mrs" obviously, flipping heck Richard! We are getting some VERY odd and obscure titled questions aren't we? I'm mostly tempted to ignore them, as they almost seem like a joke, because somebody just couldn't be bothered to think of an appropriate title. Anyway, my rather rude answer would be with sockets, spanners, and skinned knuckles. But remove the wiper scuttle first it gives LOADS more room for any access from the top.

Have you had the car long? Any documented detailed history of service? Did you use Mopar ATF+4 fluid - the specific type for the transmission on these? If not, that could be part of the problem. Or naff all to do with it. These are very sensitive little souls, on all manner of things....

Hi there! Mine doesn't have them, but my educated guess would be the sensor battery has gone.

That seems fair enough then!! It'll definitely provide fuel for your thirst for a challenge !! But unplugging the module for the door opener would seem like a start. Maybe it has something to do with the pinch sensors in the rubbers all round the door, but thinking on it, that wouldn't allow it to actually stay shut at all, as it would think there is a blockage and the safety system would immediately reverse and open up. Possibly a fault on the front overhead switch? I had all the gear indicators stay on, on our first GV, it was a precursor to the Transmission Control Module losing communication with the Body Control Module. I never got it sorted. Initially it was a low battery and dodgy earth connections causing it, then it all went tits up. It would do it after starting, then shortly sort its self out. I wish you good luck, I'll help with whatever I can! And I'm sure @RichardM will be more helpful for wiring diagrams!

Hello there! Take it back, you're in for a world of pain on Voyager electrics. No, never come across anyone else with that particular fault.

Can't help with that, but you might want to post it in the vehicle help section for the generation 5!! Has he tried doing a hard reset, battery disconnect??

Good result! Is yours diesel or petrol?