bignev

Hi Paul and welcome! Posting queries for help in the vehicle assistance section, generation 4 or 5 in your case, depends on your exact model, would be the way to get the attention of the guys with diesel experience, mines petrol!

I don't know how easy it will be, but I reckon the studs should be swappable. When I did mine I had real trouble getting ones that had shouldered bottoms on the studs for the wheel, I surrendered eventually and just went with the best I could get. Got lucky and came across a Mopar one but not the other. Been a few years and not been a big deal as far as I can tell.

Well done for finding that write up instructions pal!! But yes the Lion is a eurocarparts cheapo. Had one on my Subaru Outback when I bought it, 55ah, 480 cold cranking amps. In fairness to it, it lasted nearly 3 years before it gave a problem, but the Subaru is petrol. Anyhow, the new one is 65ah, 580 cca, and you can't half tell the difference on starting up!

I presume you figured out the rotary switch on the headlamp panel? Puts the courtesy lights to: Off Auto with doors alters brightness And puts on the rear 6 lights but not the ones on the centre front overhead Then if I remember right, the brightness of the front dash and clocks But be wary, you can then inadvertently leave them on, not ignition switched. I'm not at home so can't double check that sequence!

Yep Richard has the correct approach there, don't do it!! Andy B I think was the guy, electronics seem to be his passion, and I don't think that ultimately he sorted it!! Chuffin yanks..... Or get a replacement head unit that used to appear on ebay, and if it doesn't do what it said - fire it back!

Just putting out my old experience on our 2002, started throwing in the abs when coming up to a junction, even though it was gentle braking. I think it didn't actually put on the abs light, but it's 6 years ago so I can't be totally sure. Anyhow, I used my garden hose to take off some crud on the reluctor rings [abs sensor rings] and it behaved for a bit. Then when it came back I pulled the abs relay (not the fuse or the car wouldn't start!) till I got the stub axles and reluctor rings replaced. So - maybe the tyre fitter has inadvertently disturbed some crud as they wallop the wheel on and off, and its got on one of the ridges and looks iffy to the computer??

Hi there! Possibly www.moparwholesale.com could be a help? If yours is pre 2004, then 5019219AD could be it, there are pictures on the site, but that is discontinued as a new part.

Not bad at all!!! I did our track rod ends, twice, and like you paid more than a pound! Still didn't last. Nor did the front drop links, or anti roll bar bushes. And the new pair of complete struts on the front are getting noticeably tired again, the front end gently scrapes a couple of the speed bumps on the way to our house if you don't remember to crawl over them.

I second Richards request to the moderators - please remove these very unwelcome posts!!

I forgot to pass comment on your offside sliding door not unlocking. It is quite likely the lock actuator, easy enough to test if a bit time consuming, swap the actuator from the nearside door, you won't need to actually fit it into the door to prove the point, simply plug it into the connector and see if it works when on the offside door. If it does you need a new one! But if it will already lock and unlock with the other controls, get in the fusebox in the engine bay and pull out the IOD fuse for half an hour to reset the electronic brains.

I wish I had the remotest idea on this!!! On ours that led goes out when it recognises the key transponder.

If the fob won't work at all, if you can find an AUTO LOCKSMITH, they will be able to pair the fob and car. Even if they were never paired before. I had a second hand 5 button remote added to ours. The one to lock / unlock, and also control the boot and both sliding doors remotely. Oh ours is a 2006 Ltd XS, the earlier models I had only had 2 button remotes, so it'll depend what year yours is as to which remote it should have.

On the car locking the doors while driving, it is settable on the overhead console. But if its just started doing it that's weird!! I set ours to do it for security years ago, locks at approx 20mph, if you unlock them it will re-lock when you set off again. Without looking I can't be sure, but I seem to remember that there's also a setting for "unlock one" or "unlock all" , and I guess you don't have access to an owners manual? I'll try to remember to have a look at ours when home later. But otherwise yes it's the black magic that is Chrysler Voyager electrics, even Harry Potter can't figure that out!!!!

Well, it's a nuisance, but unless you have a nice friendly MOT station, the process would be similar to what we used to do with "free flowing" motorcycle exhausts. Put the legal one on for the MOT day, and run the other 364 days with the one you like. If you have somewhere undercover and lit it's not a problem, or if your test is in the spring or summer then the weather while you do the swap stands a chance of being nicer!!

Hiya and welcome! Sadly, no, the check engine light isn't related to the service interval setting. You may have already found out is adjustable by you, at varying distances! For the technical problems, start a post in the vehicle assistance sections for more likely responses!

Or a second hand gearbox from the likes of ebay? I believe the petrol actually uses the same box, 4TE. But you've still got labour costs on top of course.

Blooming cracking! Amazing isn't it that supposedly clever stuff is confused by something so simple. And ours aren't latest technology, Lord help us when that gets a few years old hey!!

As Richard says, do check for any wiring that could have had a nick or any damage at all, and that the battery terminals are clean and getting a good ground on the negative lead. I have had that symptom in the past with a low battery voltage, along with the dial sweep when you turn it on. Wonderful stuff is modern car electronics!!

Hi Mike! On our previous 2002, and current 2005, our large Thule roof box, indeed with a flat but corrugated underside, goes on and clamps up no problem. And yes they are both the original Chrysler cross bars. Obviously can't vouch for other makes!

How are the tyres? Wear and pressure? Our first GV drove with the steering wheel slighty off centre, and had a minor pull, but geometry was fine. It was worn tyres. They did not look that bad and were nowhere near the wesar limit. When we got it the wheels were scabby so wheels were on the shopping list, so when it got new wheels and tyres it was sweet thereafter!!

Well, as it was 6 years ago I'm struggling to remember the trauma precisely, but I've a thought I may have chickened out and given up and got my friendly local garage man to do it!

For main brain I meant the ECU of course!

Hi there and welcome! Usually use the vehicle assistance sections for help, not everyone bothers to read all the sections! I can't specifically vouch for yours, but most cars for quite a while now keep the vehicle mileage stored in the main brain, as it avoids any easy mileage fraud, old style clocking, on high mileage cars. And of course nowadays MOT test mileage is available to any one on several Internet car check sites. I had what I thought was a faulty clockset on an older voyager and when I swapped them the miles were correct for my car.

Hi there, yes the non stow n go is a totally different exhaust, and I also didn't think the 2.5 had stow option, as it was an earlier model, and I think it was a manual not auto. I've never found an aftermarket exhaust for my 3.3 petrol stow n go, in this country anyway. They are available from the US but not for a diesel, sadly you could quite possibly be into having one made. Or is it so bad it can't be patched up? I've bandaged and pasted ours a couple of times now!

Have you checked for crud build up on the radiator affecting airflow? Or it could be that the rad is clogged up internally, despite the flushing.