bignev

Hiya and welcome! Sadly, no, the check engine light isn't related to the service interval setting. You may have already found out is adjustable by you, at varying distances! For the technical problems, start a post in the vehicle assistance sections for more likely responses!

Or a second hand gearbox from the likes of ebay? I believe the petrol actually uses the same box, 4TE. But you've still got labour costs on top of course.

Blooming cracking! Amazing isn't it that supposedly clever stuff is confused by something so simple. And ours aren't latest technology, Lord help us when that gets a few years old hey!!

As Richard says, do check for any wiring that could have had a nick or any damage at all, and that the battery terminals are clean and getting a good ground on the negative lead. I have had that symptom in the past with a low battery voltage, along with the dial sweep when you turn it on. Wonderful stuff is modern car electronics!!

Hi Mike! On our previous 2002, and current 2005, our large Thule roof box, indeed with a flat but corrugated underside, goes on and clamps up no problem. And yes they are both the original Chrysler cross bars. Obviously can't vouch for other makes!

How are the tyres? Wear and pressure? Our first GV drove with the steering wheel slighty off centre, and had a minor pull, but geometry was fine. It was worn tyres. They did not look that bad and were nowhere near the wesar limit. When we got it the wheels were scabby so wheels were on the shopping list, so when it got new wheels and tyres it was sweet thereafter!!

Well, as it was 6 years ago I'm struggling to remember the trauma precisely, but I've a thought I may have chickened out and given up and got my friendly local garage man to do it!

For main brain I meant the ECU of course!

Hi there and welcome! Usually use the vehicle assistance sections for help, not everyone bothers to read all the sections! I can't specifically vouch for yours, but most cars for quite a while now keep the vehicle mileage stored in the main brain, as it avoids any easy mileage fraud, old style clocking, on high mileage cars. And of course nowadays MOT test mileage is available to any one on several Internet car check sites. I had what I thought was a faulty clockset on an older voyager and when I swapped them the miles were correct for my car.

Hi there, yes the non stow n go is a totally different exhaust, and I also didn't think the 2.5 had stow option, as it was an earlier model, and I think it was a manual not auto. I've never found an aftermarket exhaust for my 3.3 petrol stow n go, in this country anyway. They are available from the US but not for a diesel, sadly you could quite possibly be into having one made. Or is it so bad it can't be patched up? I've bandaged and pasted ours a couple of times now!

Have you checked for crud build up on the radiator affecting airflow? Or it could be that the rad is clogged up internally, despite the flushing.

Yep!! Mostly use the Vehicle assistance section for questions, this is just a kind of hello area! It's not happened to me, well not yet! But - if it's £150 to fit a used compressor, then there's nowt else other than a re-gas to get it running again, on any car, making the assumption it worked before of course. So do you have any options for a second opinion? With more AC experience? Of course right now the car won't go far without that auxiliary belt. If it didn't then who knows, if it's a 3.3 it could have leaks on the pipes to the back, or the rear coil is duff (guess how I know this....) or on either version all sorts of other stuff. If you put your car details in the section on your profile it helps nail down what we're talking about!

Hiya Richard, do you get it to start by proving the fuel pressure manually? On another vehicle my problem was caused by the fuel non return device failing so it drained back to the tank. And the pump can't pull if there's air in the line! New non return on, sweet as you like!

Hi there! How and where is the pressure being measured? Having had problems in the past, if the AC is off, and the reading is taken at the port where a DIY can of refrigerant gas would be connected, then it could be around 5 bar. When I checked this against my other car and van, that's correct. The fans are cleverly controlled, and it would appear will only go to high speed if necessary, I hardly ever hear my Subaru fans go high, they must move plenty of air on low or medium!

Hi there @@Gtiracer , is your model one of the "Executive" ones? Silver trim panels at the side of the centre console? When we were looking around for another a few years ago I remember seeing a few, and they didn't have quite all the trim that others did, so maybe that could be it. But maybe not. The LTD versions don't all have the DVD, but it seems the XS mostly do. I wouldn't dare to guess if Chrysler fitted the same wiring loom in them all. But they did on our 2002 base model - I swapped cloth seats out and fitted leather, and the wiring for the motor and heaters was there! Got a set of switches for the dash and it all worked great!! Easiest job would be as @@Madmax says, either headrest of roof mount aftermarket. Clearly not as nice as having the original kit of course, but if you like a bit of a challenge!!

Hi there, I've had a tuning box of one type or another on all of the diesels I've had in the last 16 years, Ford Galaxy 1.8 x 2, Kia Sedona 2.9, Mazda 6 2.0 Sport - this made a huge difference, and my van - a Renault Master 2.5, 2006, had it from new, just turned 110,000 miles and had a box on from about 2000 miles. So no the box itself won't hurt the car as long as the car is good to start with. The Kia had dodgy injectors and that made it awful, good when they were replaced.

Edit - see vehicle assistance section

Well no one ever said there's anything strange about chrysler electrics. ..... Oh er actually they might have done!!!?

Hi there! Now, this is a bit of a guess based on the other electrical stuff going off before the engine, but there's a small chance it could be an electrical ground wire not doing its job fully. I don't know why that would be related to being cold though.... My other car is a 2005 Subaru, and on that forum it's quite usual for all manner of electrical gremlins to be caused by loose or corroded earth straps. So it's a cheap and simple place to start. I'm assuming it doesn't bring on the engine management light, so no fault codes to give you a possible starting place?

Ah yes quite possibly, I don't recall any of ours feeling particularly heavy to get open so maybe the gas lifters are getting a bit tired! Any other guys got an opinion?

Hi there! If yours doesn't already have the electric tailgate then it could probably be a bit of a task, as the original has pinch sensors for closing and resistance sensors for opening, a motorised latch to pull it shut that last bit, probably other stuff, and it's own electronic control module too. Our 2nd GV had an intermittent attitude to opening with it - occasionally it would!! I tried a new motor and gear assembly, and a control module. Then gave up on a fruitless game. This one, our 3rd, currently works electrically, with the buttons on the overhead or the remote, or with the key in the latch, but mostly won't release the latch by hand. But of course there may be a more straightforward way to stick an opener on it!!

I think possibly what you are referring to is the IOD fuse, which is actually "Ignition Off Draw", which MIGHT help reset the Body Control Module if it's had a bit of a hiccup with various things. But if I have read that warning I can't remember, and have clearly chosen to ignore its advice

On the 3.3 or 3.8 petrols, they are over head VALVE, pushrod engines, not overhead CAM, seriously old technology hey. That's why the oil changes are so frequent, it's a ruddy old engine, just like the stuff from the early days of my driving in the early 80's. From my owners handbook written by Chrysler, under "normal" operating conditions, the oil and filter changes on the 2.5 diesel engine are at 20,000 kilometres, 12,500 miles. It doesn't cover the 2.8 which I believe is quite a different unit. And I don't really get why we have an area on the forum titled "newbie" it's kind of a non area really, as I've advised many people lots of members do not check here if they're on to help others out in the "vehicle assistance" sections.

Hi there! That info will depend on what make of plug you are fitting, then I'd look for it on the manufacturers website! Big tip - remove the wiper scuttle to get at the rear plugs, it is not difficult at all and WAY quicker than struggling with it fitted!

Yep. Lovely old tech engines, I presume you mean the petrol cos that's what my book says.