bignev

Hi again @@thomassen7 , just been idling away a few minutes this morning and had a thought. On mine I did also change the auxiliary pulleys and tensioner, one was a very tiny bit whistly, not much but even I could hear it and I've got dodgy hearing. Do you know if they've ever been changed, given its age not mileage? Also has the cambelt and pulleys been done? The 2.4 has them, mine is chain driven with tensioners.

I'm not an oil expert, but I'd check what temperatures the oil grades say they are suitable for, the bottom end being the most important one in your situation for cold engine starts. A very quick search reckons the 5w is good down to -30C. However I guess that even 10w 60 possibly covers it if your local warehouse are selling it!??? Maybe summer only though hey! But from my experience it's unnecessarily thick at the hot range end. I had no change in the noise on 10w40, none at all.

Not ideal but not too horrendous at that. Every 2.5 or 2.9 (no Chryslers by the way) diesel I've owned has been around the 25 to 26 mark, or under, unless it has been on a good run. How up to date is it on service stuff, namely the air filter? And have you got any sticking brakes? Are tyre pressures good?

Hi there! My current 3.3 does that, but the previous 2 models didn't do it. It's on 5w30, but I've tried 10w40 as I was also concerned when I first got it. But a lot milder in the UK than where you are!!! I wouldn't worry too much, mines been at it for 40,000 miles now, up at 129,000. I can only guess but on mine it could be the valve mechanisms, ancient tech - overhead valve - not cam - and pushrods. Or it could be the chain drive for the cam, I'm not remotely tempted to tackle that. However definitely give it an oil and filter change, or if it's cheap enough and the old stuff has been in for a while, and looks horribly black, or hasn't been done too often in its life, do it twice within a small number of miles. But don't use an oil flush additive, because if it's never been done before you can disturb gloopy crud that you don't want to shift too quickly, better to dilute it slowly over a few oil changes.

This is the current one with 18" wheels, 245 45 tyres

AHA! Got it, but had to faf around to get it to a lesser quality to be small enough to be able to attach it. Flippin heck! Those are 17" wheels with 225 55 tyres by the way.

Yeah that's as bad as my petrol 3.3, pretty rubbish! But fuel on it is 57 pence a litre.......... I wouldn't have thought that - if as you say - it's running fine, the injectors have been damaged. You say "a bit off" what did you used to get?

Hi there! As you say it looks high at the back, somehow! The roof line is quite sloped from the back isn't it. But from an old picture of my 2002 3.3 it doesn't particularly look low at the front, at the wheel arch, just angled a bit more so the bumper is nearer to the deck than mine was. I'm trying to remind myself and figure out after all these years how to post that picture! Has it possibly had replacement dampers at the back that are longer than standard? Leaf springs are not so likely to have been messed with I'd hope! What tyre size are on it? Probably right but they just look a little low profile. Standard are 215 x 65 16" if I remember rightly.

Yep stuck EGR = too much exhaust recirc through engine = lots of smoke = big black smoke if gunned on set off Difficult to see when driving but easy when sat idle, You've blanked it before what do you have to lose as an experiment!! Just because the egr valve has been changed doesn't mean it can't soot up and stick. Generally injectors would mean various characteristics - difficulty starting, poor fuel economy, overfueling at various parameters giving engine management light, amongst many others as you infer, but you say it drives great.

Ruddy hell pal you are being dealt a pile of poo to deal with!! I thought we had some crap over a few years! That company are coincidentally just a few miles up the road from me! Don't know them or ever heard of them, but the pictures seem to show an independent outlet. I got an alternator for my petrol 3.3 from West Lancs auto electrics in Preston around 4 1/2 years ago, so far so good! Their website may not give you a price, I've just tried with my reg, but they have a lovely old fashioned phone number type thing too - I remember that's how I ordered mine.

Hiya Roy, I'm very pleased to hear the news on the treatment for your daughter, I sincerely hope it works for her!

The ones I saw when I checked earlier were new, around £45, and the drivers side was available !

I changed ours a couple of years ago, also drivers side, got the whole assembly, a bit fiddly but not as much of a nightmare as I thought it was going to be. Folding the thing to get it out / back in was wierd for me as I'd never done one before, but once I figured which way it would work in it was pretty ok. As per usual they are still on ebay for not bad money! As they are not Mopar the motor probably wouldn't swap over if you tried to make it a smaller job, most likely end up a bigger effort than doing the whole thing.!!

Hiya @@gordy - yes you're quite right with the comment on the clearance, make sure it's the correct brand of fags or it'll go tits up Metric? Bah humbug, I'm still in BTU's for heat, old bugger.

Hi Gareth, I know you are selling it and that's the main point, but I'm just asking if the condition of the teeth on the shaft that the sensor looks for was checked? Our first 2002 GV had that. Not getting the right readings. But you stated NO signal so more likely cabling fault.

It used to be a wonderful institution didn't it, doing what it was created to do. Then money, and then greed, take over, gits. I have the softening blow that my losses were spread over a few years, still makes my blood boil though. 3 years ago I have to say I was uplifted by the Christie cancer care in Manchester, their care for my mother in law was superb. Even though we knew the prognosis, after the radio therapy, (not chemo as she wasn't strong enough for it) she had a fall, giving a spiral fracture to her tibia, the NHS fixed that and also did a half hip replacement as it was going to be beneficial for her. That unfortunately is VERY much the exception nowadays as we know all too well I haven't (yet) come across the air con frying the ecu. However on our first GV it may possibly have been a factor. It was a 3.3 petrol, but ended up refusing to change gear, many many hours of tests and investigation never sorted it. It went for breaking up for parts. So it could have been in the ecu as everything else tested good including the TCM and solenoid pack. Ah well never mind.

@@oldginger Aww crap mate I am so sorry to hear that, I know you said your wifes condition was terminal but it's still a completely ruddy pooe time. I cannot, and in the politest way and with utmost empathy, I hope I won't have to, comprehend what you are going through emotionally now with the news of your daughter. And sadly I agree with your comments regarding the state of our once wonderful NHS. One of our local hospitals has regretfully got a tag from a few of us slightly older ones, Stepping Hill is its actual name - "step in ill come out dead", both my mum, closest aunt, and father in law did just that. If the CEO's and managers didn't take so much bloody money as "salary" then there would be WAY more available to look after and employ plenty more front line foot soldiers - nurses.

If it's a diesel check the temp gauge gets up to the half way mark, if not then it's not getting up to full temp, costing you fuel, and you need the inline thermostat mod, and at this time of year the grille blanking mod, both readily found in posts on here

Hi there, the cable is housed in what is commonly referred to as a caterpiller track. Or door track, several on ebay right now. Very common for the wires to break, not so much the track itself. moparwholesaleparts.com may be able to help with a new one, but it may be the complete bit, I bought one for ours a few years ago! Good luck!

Hiya, sadly no I have no idea whether Chrysler make the chassis the same for the US and Europe, but probably one of the manufacturers on the internet would, as they make them!

Hi mate we've got crossed wires, I haven't got a fault, I was talking in the past tense about the problem I had 18 months ago! I was putting in for information and reference to @@oldginger and @@RichardM with the same happening on their cars - turning over but not trying to start. You guys all know the usual suspects, but it was a situation I had on a diesel engine, so hence the question about the 2.8 non return valve.

I'm going to resist touching it, it's not much over 18 months old my primer! And while it starts almost instantly I'm not fixing what ain't broke lazy sod

Ah, ok, I reckon the non return's part of that primer button assembly diaphragm. I'm thinking that if @@RichardM is priming his frequently, then as you say something is causing it to "break the vacuum" in my plumbing terms to enable it to leak fuel back to the tank. As a matter of interest, the rubber primer bulb (inc the new one) on my van isn't hard, I though I'd check it to see if it's any different to other times I have in years past, I can pump it probably 4 times before it feels properly firm, but it doesn't hesitate to start up without touching it. So on my van, the fuel pressure from the primer, up into the filter housing, then out and down to the high pressure pump inlet on the engine isn't actually under pressure as such, but is completely full of fluid - diesel mostly - that is then under suction when the engine is running. I think it was you @@QinteQ who has pointed out before that the primer should and needs to go firm when it's used, or otherwise there's very likely a problem in the fuel system.

Ah, ok, I saw the picture on the other post, I reckon it's part of that primer button assembly diaphragm. I'm thinking that if @@RichardM is priming his frequently, then as you say something is causing it to "break the vacuum" in my plumbing terms to enable it to leak fuel back to the tank. As a matter of interest, the rubber primer bulb (inc the new one) on my van isn't hard, I though I'd check it to see if it's any different to other times I have in years past, I can pump it probably 4 times before it feels properly firm, but it doesn't hesitate to start up without touching it.

Hiya chaps! Do the Voyagers have a non return valve on the low pressure system on the way to the fuel filter? I ask as last year my Renault van decided to be a bit of a naughty thing, and would wind over and not start on a couple of occasions. Giving it throttle made no difference. Called my breakdown service and they popped out and read no faults at all. Because it wasn't a problem with the electronics as it turns out. Next time thankfully my brain quickly put together lots of the bits from this forum on some of the problems, came up with a fuel situation, and pumped the primer bulb on the inlet to the filter in the engine bay - quite high up I might add, well above the top of the engine by about 7" I reckon, took a couple of goes but then it chugged into life, got itself going and was fine while running. I got to my job, after 5 minutes went to move the van and it told me to bog off. After a few failed attempts we hit on this - with the aid of my mate, I pumped the primer bulb while he cranked it over, and it eventually chimed into life. Drove fine on the way home. New in line primer bulb / non return valve later and it was back to usual. I didn't touch anything else at all, so I can absolutely rule out any air leaks etc.