bignev

I know you say the fluid level is spot on, but is it at the top? The warning light is also for low fluid, so if it's intermittent it may be moving fluid, just my thought but if it isn't already bring it up to max, and if the light coming on is "repeatable" under circumstances you know, then maybe fix the float up and drive it to see if it comes on at that. Or is it the handbrake switch become loose? And moving and coming on when the lever is fully down?

Have you been under the bonnet and checked the brake fluid level?

Slip doesn't sound good, maybe some new fluid to drop out some of the dirty contaminated crud that might be getting in the way of the friction plates will help. A change of fluid certainly shouldn't make it worse! Be aware though that even at somewhere between 4 and 5 litres of the ATF+4 you will only change about half of its capacity. Loads of fluid is retained in the torque converter, but you do NOT want to empty that - a whole world of mither will follow. So if it helps a bit, and your wallet can stand it, do the change again a while later, after the new dilutes the old nicely, and of course the new filter cleans it up too. And a word of advice if you're doing it yourself, it's not difficult, but when you undo the transmission sump bolts, leave the corners in place but unscrewed say a quarter of the way, so when the seal pops it won't totally bladder all over the place. Personal experience that is. A large washing up bowl strategically positioned will be a good idea. As the cars are quite sensitive souls, and mine is a rather ungrateful sod, I personally wouldn't risk anything other than the Mopar fluid on this.

Hi there, sounds like a right nightmare this one. I don't suppose you bought it from a garage / dealer by any wonderful chance????? Because if you did just fire it straight back at them! If you've never looked at an engine you are not going to sort this one out sadly. However - if you search and post in the Vehicle assistance section, you will find some pointers, but you will actually need to know what your car is. Boxy shape front is the 5th generation, mostly they came in from 2008 though so you most likely have a 4th gen model, IF it's 2007 - check your vehicle registration document. Doesn't help with your problems but I'd guess it's more likely to be a diesel?? And where in the country are you? Someone may know a friendly garage near you.

Hi there! Yes it would seem that you can fit the 3 seat bench in the middle row, but not both captains seats in the back - or even on the correct side for the seat belt as you have described. I didn't try removing the arm rests, as I was only curious, I didn't need to do it.

Hi there! I connected into the feed for power socket at the front, "cigar lighter" one, but if you wanted it permanently powered you could use the other one that's always live.

Yep at 11.8 volts it's as flat as a pancake! Have you got a charger for it to try?

Have you tried doing the key dance to access a code if there is one?

Hi there, Just to point something out - you say yours is a 2006, but the AA report says it's a 5 speed auto box, I thought they came in with the newer squarer shape? So so a 5th generation not 4th ?

Hi there, could possibly be the coil, I've had a couple die on me. There is a thread on here probably earlier this year, but are you able to test stuff? You will need a spare spark plug, pull one HT lead off at a time and push in the spare plug, rest it on the metal cross member, start the engine, and see how the spark looks. Work your way through all the plugs, if one is particularly less bright than the others it's probably the coil, but try swapping the leads over on a couple of connections on the coil to check it's not them. The coil can be had off ebay, or rockauto.com in the USA, I actually (as daft as it sounds) bought 2 from them for the price of 1 in the UK, shipped over in 5 days. Or it could be a HT lead, but from what you describe it is just like mine when it chucked its hand in. Oh I should have started with the "key dance" suggestion - key in, at "off" position, and in fairly quick order, go to ignition on (but NOT cranking position) then back to "off" then igntion - the third time you get to the ignition position stop, and the trip meter should show us some info, P codes, if you get P0301 to P0306 then that's a misfire detected. P0300 is multiple misfires, the second time the coil went on mine it had killed 2 circuits.

Have you checked your coolant level?

Cracking! One happy little fella I would think!!

Hiya! My girls are 7 and the headphones have a good range of adjustment, but they are a stock item so you could try before you buy of course!! I am quite sure it doesn't run through the amp, as it's an infra red signal and volume is altered on the headset. And of course the radio or cd then plays to the speakers if you wish. Worst case scenario - return them for a refund!

Hi There @@dmal4ev ! From my personal experience my rear wiper was the motor, second hand unit and sorted. The washer was the hose on the boot (stow n go version) under the carpet, right hand side, a coupling had come loose, I have a fellow member to thank for the pointer on that one.

I recently (August) got some infra red head phones from Halfords at £15, as I wanted them at short ish notice - due to a late thought about it on my part! They have been great so far! I did look on ebay, and there were some cheaper, but didn't want to risk them not arriving before we set off for Cormwall!

Hi there! I recently bought the infra red head phones from Halfords, as I needed (well wanted) them at short notice for a drive from Manchester to Cornwall. They were retailed at £15 but I got discount with my Subaru owners club card (Outback 3.0 2005). They worked instantly, and the AAA batteries lasted all week on holiday, and are still good. The 2.8 has a cam belt - others with a diesel can comment further! Do you not have a remote at all to turn the DVD on? Mine doesn't work without the remote to turn the screen on!!!

Hi guys, obviously I don't own a Delta, but I read most of the forum cos I'm sad! Just a couple of questions to help it along - have you had it any amount of time - and therefore has it always done this or is it a new development? When you get it into 3rd gear and higher does it then have good power - this would eliminate turbo and lots of other stuff, but point possibly towards clever electronics on a sort of traction control limiting torque and power to avoid wheel spin.

Do you have a digital multimeter to check the voltage of the battery just before you try to start it? This will confirm the above suggestions if it's less than 12.7 to 12.8 volts which is a fully charged unit (I think - please correct me if I'm out on that number) If I'm right less than 12.3 is a fairly low battery. And the 2.8 diesel doesn't appear to like that, especially when it gets cooler.

Hi there, Small point but the post is in the wrong section, yours is a 4th generation, 56 plate is 2006 / 2007. I would reckon the battery, I read you said it's been tested but it sounds like a battery. Try it with a jump start from another vehicle with its engine running. What voltage did you get on the test? 13 volts or over is ok. Also is it petrol or diesel?

Nice one mate! They must have revised some of the layout on mine as it wasn't TOO bad with the extra access! Certainly didn't have to faff the the alternator.

Yep a mobile AUTO locksmith should be able to do you a spare key no problem and code it in. Or not necessarily mobile, we have a company near us who can cut one and code it in. They did me a key for one of ours but said they couldn't do the remote unit - dealer only. However on our current car we had a spare key done by a recommended mobile guy, and we also had a spare second hand remote coded in - which apparently couldn't be done except by a Chrysler dealer.......... well it's still working so I guess they were wrong.

My Renault Master van works in the same way, primer (rubber bulb in my case) just before the filter, with a non return valve built in. And no pump in the tank. When it went tits up a couple of months ago I recalled all I had read on here, and with the aid of a glamorous assistant, (he isn't really!) turning the engine over with me pumping the bulb it started, and stayed running while it was pulling fuel through. After turning it off and leaving for a few minutes it wouldn't start again. New primer bulb and it's been good since.

Treble check on that fault diagnosis - I don't recall of ever reading of a high pressure pump failure on here, I could of course be wrong.

Hi there! I'm sure you are probably aware the diesel / lpg never really took off due to the difficulties of making a compression ignition engine work on a fuel that need a spark to burn, so would always run a mix, the burning diesel ignites the lpg. Also I don't think there is an official classification for that as dual fuel, to get the massive £10 reduction on road tax. But the diesel engine can be remapped, or use a "plug and play module" for around £70 for good and immediate results. I have used them on my Renault Master 2.5 van, a Mazda6 2.0 sport - huge increase it was a totally different car, 2 Ford 1.8 Galaxys, and a Kia Sedona 2.9.

My suggestion would be a new radiator from ebay, £60 to £75 at a very quick look just now. It's not a horrendous job to swap the rad out. If using the cabin heater brings the temperature down then I reckon the evidence says the water pump is doing its job.