bignev

Hi think I need back up from @@QinteQ but I thought 2nd and reverse were selected essentially manually with the lever, so much so that I am fairy sure my 02 3.3 would select them with the TCM disconnected

If you can't quite reach it - long nose angle tip pliers - gently does it with the glass bulb, but if you break it, it will probably shake out.

Oh dear that doesn't sound good at all. Try the "key dance, switch to ON but not start, back to off - 3rd time in the ON position stop, and observe to odometer, have a pen & paper, and maybe it might give us a clue. Should list any codes, usually in order I think, and end with "done". But it sounds mechanical in the gearbox to me - if you can't push it in neutral when it's running, that's definitely not my usual experience! And no reverse. As well as limited revs! Certainly hope something pops up on the display. Or it could be one or more of the solenoids, and the PCM is doing something as it recognises an error - but why there's no warning light is rather odd, hey @@QinteQ & @@andyb2000!?

hi again! On our original petrol 3.3 the TCM failed to talk to the PCM, and it had 2nd gear, reverse, park and neutral.

I don't know on yours, have you got the rest of that picture? Only half the box on there. I'm on petrol so didn't spot if I've got a "Transmission" shut down, but got an EATX one?? Not got time to check right now sorry. Can you see "TCM" anywhere? But it could be a combined unit on yours with the Power Control Module relay..... so the one you mention may be it - swap another one that you know works out of another component.

OOH yep that's rather obviously not good, yeah I'd agree if it's under warranty get it back to them and they can have the mither!! Was the original problem overheating - guessing but just re-read the start of the post? Yes it sounds like it's certainly clogged somewhere, a couple of the other guys, @@andyb2000 and @@QinteQ would know far more on the diesels!

Hi Pal, take a read of the previous thread - " Does a Grand Voyager 2005 have an in tank lift pump", hopefully should help a bit. But there will be more questions soon - is it diesel or petrol to start with?

Hiya pal not seen you for a while! Double check the coolant level - you probably already have! The gauge can go to normal (halfway as you say) or high if it's low on water, then the temp sensor for the gas doesn't get hot enough to do the changeover! We have a whole lot of coolant on the 3.3 - about 12 litres - so you can lose quite a lot and still sort of ok - May Bank Holiday I lost 3.5 litres on the way to Blackpool but it was still normal temp! Water pump fault / leak!!

Hi pal, where does the temperature gauge get to? If it's not very nearly halfway then the stat is not doing it's job. Whether it's had a new one or not. And I presume you mean driving, not just idling on the drive. The good news is your diesel versions are self air bleeding I believe, I know my petrol is. DO NOT back flush on these, alloy engines and other reasons, QinteQ has better info. Read a very recent topic on "New Radiator Needed" he has detailed the flush procedure - if indeed you need it. But check your temp gauge first.

No worries, and excellent that you have a good guy you can tryust!! On mine to turn the screen on you press the button with the picture of the headphones on, top left.

Hi and welcome! The lock actuator isn't a particularly difficult job, and the item certainly isn't usually expensive from a certain auction / "buy it now" site. But of course the "difficulty" level depends on your mechanical abilities! If you don't mind waiting, this one under £12 from China: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Left-Right-Power-Sliding-Door-Lock-Actuator-For-Chrysler-Town-Country-Dodge/401478999912?epid=7011748448&hash=item5d7a035f68:g:1VUAAOSwUH5aYOC- Have you got the remote control for the DVD? The screen won't come on for most models without it. For a spare key your best option is a mobile auto locksmith, who can cut and code one easily. If you get a second hand remote he should be able to code that in too for you. It can be done - I've had it done for mine.

Oh bummer pal that's not fair at all. After the time and effort you've given it too. Really sorry to hear it. And holy pooe yep those bearings are a little bit more than normal wear. I must have done really well with mine, the 2002 3.3 I had, I put it on Gumtree and a dismantler, not scrapper, contacted me and gave me £250. Are there any remotely near you?

Yep that's a problem then pal. Either, or both, of the means of escape for the water, to get as much of any sediment out of the system. I suppose you could get a bucket and keep refilling with a jug but not nearly as quickly effective.

Hiya pal, Just use the tap water for the flushing as it's coming out again. Follow our fellow member QinteQ's list in #7, not "fill run drain fill" steps it'll keep contaminating whatever goes in for absolutely ages. Start off I suppose if you're worried with the bottom hose loose, with water coming out, and put a garden hose in the expansion bottle and keep it flowing through. If it gets fairly clear then run the engine briefly to circulate, then repeat. Then try to follow QinteQ's list. It will work loads better.

Excellent!

HI there and welcome! I can answer the first one - as I don't lock ours behind doors in the car port - nope it won't go off, opening doors or anything.

Yep - you will need a good auto locksmith who will sort that in no time - with no damage to the car. And you will then have a spare key if you get him to do it while he's getting you in!!!!

I'd suggest your local tyre depots for advice on it - doesn't seem anyone has experience of this sadly.

Oil filler cap on my 3.3 petrol says 5w20!!!!!!! I do have the handbook and it can be almost anything in this country with our temperatures. So I use 5w30 because I can buy that anywhere, I've used my local autofactors standard stock fully synthetic stuff, Granville oils last 2 times at around 3000 to 4000 miles, as it has been doing way too many - way too short journeys with my Mrs, to her mums and hospital appointments. It had also been using a bit more too recently, which I am GUESSING is down to the clearances being larger in the engine when it's cold.

I assume you're talking about a diesel, I've not got one on a Chrysler, but got one on my 2.5 Renault Master, been on for 12 years, Had one on a Mazda 6 2.0 sport - massive difference, Ford Galaxy 1.8 - slight improvement, Kia Sedona 2.9 - good improvement. I all except the van I barely had any difference in the fuel consumption, but lots more torque, the van is slightly better with it on.

Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?! Got to comply for the world's markets hey!! Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Oil is less mither, & cheaper, than repairs, probably anyway! Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though.

Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?! Got to comply for the world's markets hey!! Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though.

Hi there and welcome! A mate of mine runs TVM motors, service and MOT station, behind Meadow Mill, just behind the Tesco at Portwood. When my girls were small he did what I couldn't find time for, and does the stuff I can't do, or don't have the kit for, now. Tony isn't a Chrysler specialist but is ruddy good, he is dead genuine, we've only known him for 18 years!! And his code reader kit will read everything on my 2005, including the transmission.

Well I'll join you in being confused - I thought I would just take a look for a tank fuel pump for the 2007 1.8 galaxy, and there are some supposedly for sale too on ebay!!!!! Yet there was no buzzing or whirring noise on ignition, my mate who worked for Ford didn't reckon they had one, and it would never, ever, ever pump fuel back up to the filter. It took a lot of suction on the fuel rail to get it to pull through and run again after a filter change. The Kia was a ruddy doddle, pump back up with the primer and off it would go. So yours then - yes, you do have a high pressure fuel pump, it's located on the engine and driven by belt while the engine is running. On the relay - buggered if I know hee hee But did you see how they tested the leak off?? How much fuel was going out of the "return" connection on the injectors? Check the new fuel filter housing for any tiny air leaks, to enable it to drain fuel back to the tank which is what we don't want. If the button primer is soft when you start it does seem to point to something in that area. The Kia went soft too, but the injectors were totally trashed, and it needed a whiff of something to get it to fire up. A push bike would be less of a headache than these ruddy things Might struggle with the wife, kids & luggage though.

Not to criticize too much your mechanics, but my Galaxy 2007 and Sedona 2005 manage it with just the fuel pump on the engine............ And these guys have sorted out a good many problems with starting and running on diesel Grand Voyagers (mines a lovely clean burning LPG model, not a sooty diesel :-)). However - I just had a look on ebay and also saw an add for an "in tank fuel pump for a 2.8 TDI". Did you see the result of the leak off tests?