bignev

Hmm if it's driving fine on gears then it's not too probable to be gearbox. I wonder if it had gone to "limp" mode which is low (2nd I believe) gear. Which might have been why it was revving it's tatties off, only maybe, but surely that would have caused a fault code..... So how did the RAC man come up with his low presssure fuel fault with no codes??????....... In fairness my Sedona had no codes for the bad starting but failed miserably a leak off test. Does yours have a fuel primer bulb in the engine bay? If so try pumping that up to hard immediately before trying to start it. Will it go hard? If not then it's got an air leak somewhere or fuel leak back problem

As the posts at the start, it's supposed to be always on unless you use the rocker switch. Or there is a problem. I wonder if he ever got it sorted.... Yet another lack of information and feedback if it did or didn't get fixed! Any warning lamps on the dash lit? Try the key dance - turn to "on" 3 times in rapid succession not starting it, 3rd time leave in that position then it should hopefully give some code on the trip display to start us with.

Yep that's right for the Sachs, they are a bit less on Rockauto but not a hundred quid a pair! :- ) Many trinkets have appeared in my garage too over the years - some she knows about ha ha! Keep us posted how they perform pal!

Oh dear this is very much going to need a lot of further investigation, I'll start the questions rolling - Once it's started will it drive? Does the transmission fluid smell burnt? Is it correct level? I know my fault code reading with a similar wording was on a Kia, but that turned out to be the injectors, not starting without easy start. Our diesel GV chaps are more expert and will also help soon I'm sure!

Hey up guys yes you're both correct, Sachs self levelling - Nivomat - and replacements are available but bloody expensive. Those are a load bigger diameter body than usual hey Andy!! I got a set of 4 bushes from Jeep Chrysler parts last year for £40, plus I invested in new tool for the garage - a 12 ton press for £90 off ebay hee hee - the Mrs took the piss something rotten - again. Probably a 6 ton would have been fine, but hardly any price difference so lets go large!!! Or there are some KYB options on Rockauto at £163 each, 2 mopar ones left at £154 each. Plus carriage and import duty of course. Better than last year when I could only find them about £200 each - making the press plus bushes a bargain investment. It's not that bad a job with a press - press out the centre piece, use a junior hacksaw so I could get the blade in the middle, cut the rubber out, cut 2 slots in the outer metal of (whats left in my case) the bush, belt that bit out, clean it up and press the new ones in. Doddle..... So then as you say the shocks look like they are not long for this world, if the KYB you have are the same overall length, and only a tiny bit shorter on the shaft for suspension travel, so hopefully shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop, and they were cheap enough, it would in my world be worth a "suck it and see" experiment. And you could then have a look at those originals at your leisure!!

Yep too right unfortunately! Sadly even some older guys seem to have lost the ability to figure out problems by working through. I bloke I know has worked for main stealers for too many years and can't remember how to actually fix stuff, simply doing what the technical bulletin or flow chart says. He wasn't aware of the AC pressures, thought it was the sensor, on my Galaxy, but didn't think to put the gauge on the cars next to it - to get the same "high" reading when not running. Thankfully I did.

Hi There! Try www.wheelfitment.eu for the information!! Cheers!

Hi @@sak12345 pal see my response in the technical help forum! And now I've read this my comment on the battery is far more important!!

Hi @@sak12345, have you checked the battery is charged? Has it started since you lost the remote? Or was it armed then you lost it? But - not sure - I think once the key has been in the ignition in the ON position a few seconds the immobiliser ring recognises it, and the red LED lamp should go out, then should turn over. And as I was typing that my memory recalled that it will turn over and start even with the wrong key - yes it will I had 2 GV's and did this - but will only run for a couple of seconds then cut out. Worried the poop out of me till I took a proper look at the key then had a laugh how daft I was. You can get a second hand remote, and have it coded into the car by a good AUTO LOCKSMITH, not just auto electrician, although they may well be able to do that. Again I have had this done. Memory is faded but certainly under £100 including the fee he had to pay for a code number for my ECU. Plus obviously the remote itself which I supplied.

Excellent!! We can eliminate that horrible option from the possible faults, marvelous! I can only pass on what I have learned and experienced and hope it helps out others! And, like the rest of us on here, I also hope it avoids some of us getting ripped off by parties who would be quite happy to play expensive "parts darts" games with these things, as they're not as predictable as some makes of car. Or just take the P. Sometimes if it's cheap enough and results in having followed a logical path a part is worth a "punt", but if possible test stuff first. As pointed out in the other post a coil is an example of that, it can test out ok, but still not perform on load. Did you mean leads and coil by the way? Having already done the plugs!

No pal not sounding thick at all - you can obviously think about the function well! Good one you tested for the plugs, also engine temp will affect how wet they will be, as it will be running rich on a cool engine. Yes it is right if the spark timing is out it could have a huge loss of power - going back to the good old days of distributors and points / condensers, if the points were out a bit, they would really struggle. I know my bikes did!! I don't have the knowledge of modern computer engine management to figure or know how it can be adjusted, it's supposed to be clever and sort itself out when it has the information from the sensors........ Weak sparks also don't do well under compression. Maybe a coil section is breaking down, mine spotted a misfire and gave up a code, P0304. But it was a very noticeable misfire in my case. I got a coil from fleabay for £35, possibly worth a gamble? Maybe a set of leads for £15 to £18? Can you get / borrow a compression tester?

Hmm right ok..... The revs topping out at 3000 to 3500 would be the rev limiter - try it in neutral (or park) to see that confirmed. Relating to another problem I've just had & posted on, knackered coil, "3.3 misfire" have a read of that and try for good sparks on all the cylinders, use an old plug on the end of the detached HT lead, I rested mine on the metal front cross panel, and see how they are doing. If you have 2 duff ones on opposing side of the coil it could be the electrical signal in to the coil, or the coil itself. While you're in there perhaps check the plugs - any wet ones indicate crap ignition. Leading on from that if you can get a compression tester then it's an ideal time to do it while the plugs are out. A lack of a code from your initial post hopefully means that there's not an injector problem!! I'm presuming that the car feels like it's driving through the transmission ok - not like it's got a "slipping clutch", has the fluid been checked? Give it a sniff to see if it's burnt or dark red / black - dead.

Hi there, Just to try to get a handle on it, is it revving its thingies off but not driving forward? Leading to transmission problems suspicion. Don't be concerned by the red hot manifold, not too much anyway, if they had it fast idling I'd not be too surprised it got ruddy hot. Diesels won't do that, and most modern stuff will be hidden by engine covers etc so they can't see it anyhow. And it must have been low light level to see that too. I had a four stroke off road bike that would routinely make its exhaust header red hot, but you could only see it at very dull or night conditions.

Ah yes of course, our current one is a face lift 2005, and as you say they seem to have combined the Transmission Control Module TCM and PCM, as the older TCM used to live in this wheel arch. Now you jog my memory I remember being disappointed I couldn't pinch a good TCM off this to try on the older one. Well simple enough I suppose, try it and see, but quite possibly it won't play. On the older one it lit up all manner of lights, and wouldn't turn the engine over at all. Swapped back to the original and all good again. Well apart from the original TCM problem I was trying to rectify anyway. Same deal when I tried the BCM - but I expected that, as I understand that holds the security data for the alarm and key transponders. But then the newer version may be less fussy..........

Hi pal it could be, but might not of course! If you can get an old plug, try one lead off the engine at a time with the spare plug in the end, I let mine rest on the front metal cross member, and check for any of them not sparking or a poor spark. If only one is down it might be what you've got. With the 2 on ours it was quite a significant stutter / judder, bizarre going on the same day though, very odd.

Hi there, If that's the unit in front of the fuse box, then when I tried it on our 2002 3.3 for a TCM problem then it wouldn't recognise it, so I didn't go any further with getting it re-programmed / coded to the car.

Hey there @@thedogss and @@jimmyybob hope yours stayed sorted!!?? Well mine decided it wanted more attention last Monday (Sat today), came up with lumpy running and shaking as the Mrs and kids put it. So here we go again with it, key dance gives P0304 so misfire on cylinder 4. Turn the gas off to eliminate that. Swap plugs for cyl 6, same stuff, plugs look ok, apart from no 4 being wet with fuel, so as the ends of the HT leads came off on the plugs thought - try them. New set of leads - well no of course not was it chuff. So right then get an old plug and see what's got a good spark - 4 AND 2 don't, bugger. As they aren't fired from the same part of the 3 section coil (wasted spark type operation) I'm going for dodgy coil. SO - 3 days later on a next day delivery from fleabay - fitted today and fired up ok. I will however now also replace the plugs, even though all the ignition parts are just 2 years and around at most 20,000 miles old. Watch this space hey guys!!!

Aha yes that's the stow n go version, as our current one. And then sadly again - nope they don't adjust.

Hi there! Assuming you got the standard seats, not stow n go, then sadly I don't think the base adjusts. I felt the same about our previous one. It felt a bit better if I angled the back rest backwards a notch, but still a little "reclined" from a comfortable position for me. Our first one however didn't seem quite so angled, so maybe I missed something, or didn't lean on something hard enough

Yep - definitely as you say get the coolant changed to start with, if it's a crappy colour it may be sludgy as well so won't circulate properly. There is a post referring to it recently in the techeart help section for version 4 Grand Voyager

Yep I had the rear washer hose problem too when I first got it, one of the guys on here pointed me in the right direction!

It could be the clutch master or slave cylinders, clutch isn't being released fully so binding a bit, hence the drag on the gears when trying to shift, but would have thought it would be the same for all. Does it crawl when in first on the flat? Try it from all gears when stationary - it may possibly be easier on the higher gears when moving.

Good stuff mate!

Yep that's the spot in the loom where that connection I mentioned is located!!

Hi there! I had the problem with all the gears being indicated on the display, I hope you sort yours, mine never did, it went to the dismantlers (rather than scrap at least). Mine however would not use any other forward gears than 2nd, shifted into reverse park and neutral all OK. The engine light came on mine too, and may be related to the not shifting, as emissions would be affected. The inside of the Transmission Control Module (you are correct) is kind of jellified substance so is very unlikely to be wet in there, but worth a look. It's probable that there is a lack of communication TCM to BCM (Body) that's causing that problem, and is very likely to be connected with the water in wiring / bad earth somewhere The "key dance" MIGHT give you the code for that, mine did at first, then later it couldn't be bothered, ruddy rude thing. When I was searching to sort mine I found reference to a common bad wire connection in the main wiring loom in front and below the auto box, but mine sadly wasn't the problem. I didn't have any of your other electrical problems, but maybe that was just a fluke hey!!