bignev

It could be the clutch master or slave cylinders, clutch isn't being released fully so binding a bit, hence the drag on the gears when trying to shift, but would have thought it would be the same for all. Does it crawl when in first on the flat? Try it from all gears when stationary - it may possibly be easier on the higher gears when moving.

Good stuff mate!

Yep that's the spot in the loom where that connection I mentioned is located!!

Hi there! I had the problem with all the gears being indicated on the display, I hope you sort yours, mine never did, it went to the dismantlers (rather than scrap at least). Mine however would not use any other forward gears than 2nd, shifted into reverse park and neutral all OK. The engine light came on mine too, and may be related to the not shifting, as emissions would be affected. The inside of the Transmission Control Module (you are correct) is kind of jellified substance so is very unlikely to be wet in there, but worth a look. It's probable that there is a lack of communication TCM to BCM (Body) that's causing that problem, and is very likely to be connected with the water in wiring / bad earth somewhere The "key dance" MIGHT give you the code for that, mine did at first, then later it couldn't be bothered, ruddy rude thing. When I was searching to sort mine I found reference to a common bad wire connection in the main wiring loom in front and below the auto box, but mine sadly wasn't the problem. I didn't have any of your other electrical problems, but maybe that was just a fluke hey!!

Hi mate what car is it? I'd suggest also pop it in the technical help section for more chance of one of your fellow owners to spot it!

No not wheel bearings, the top mount has a bearing in it - well it's supposed to - for when the wheel / strut is turned, so you will have done them, I hope! It's not at all unreasonable to assume the springs should have been the same, I'm just weird and having had it happen to me on other stuff over my life I gave up trusting companies to get it right, just because it's what they do. Sorry if this sounds rude but you knew complete shocks are handed I presume! I do not mean to offend!! The mounting orientation comment was made a few months ago but I can't find it either, I'll search a bit more later for you. And I would reckon you're more than likely right on duff discs!

Hi there! From your other post I deduce you've got a diesel, so yes indeed a diesel fuel filter is right at 20,000 KILOMETERS, 12,500 miles, according to my Chrysler owners manual. It's just that on modern vehicles, which these aren't really (definitely not the petrol push rod engine!!) garages tend not to do that kind of thing - "oh they'll be ok" attitude. If you think that's bad, the oil & filter intervals for the petrol engine model, with town work stop start driving, is 3000 miles!!!! It goes to the heady heights of 7500 miles if driven more "normally". Obviously I stick religiously to that ha ha. The diesel owner guys will assist on this I'm sure, and warn of the potential follow on problems if it's not done correctly. There also appears to be a couple of locations the fuel filter may be - from memory underneath next to the tank, or in the engine bay, and you may or may not have a hand primer bulb on yours. If you don't have the hand primer it could be best to get a garage to do it for you. On my diesel 07 Galaxy it was a complete and utter git of a job to get it running again, including the help of my neighbour who has a fuel vacuum hand pump, a proper one, (he works for Ford). Like not changing brake fluid on a many years old "full" service, never heard of it being done, in fairness it's not even in the Chrysler book.

Did you replace the top mounts / bearings too? That could be a source of the noise. And the shocks have got to be fitted in the correct orientation, as pointed out by another member recently. If the springs aren't fitted into the shock seats correctly they will probably also then give a slightly different "loaded" height. And could result in a pull to one side if the spring coils are under a wound tension. A huge difference in ride height could cause a pull, but I would have thought it would pull to the lower side, not the high side as in your case. Did anyone check the new springs, and shocks, were the same length - as each other?

Hello there! Well you've done them - but I was going to suggest the injectors, but it is much rarer in petrols for them to cock up, I would guess because of the lower levels of soot in the combustion chambers. You've obviously done all the usual ignition parts I would have gone for myself. Getting worse when hot used to be a plug fault symptom. Missing under load was too, and for the HT leads, but they're all new. So I'm stumped, but will continue to mull it over and see if I can think of anything obscure!

Sorry to be off tangent and even worse it's not even Chrysler, but my Sedona is (at the least) the condenser coil at the front, bubbling beautifully with some leak detection spray on it and won't hold any pressure for any time at all. So sadly the wonderful kit found by Honda43 won't help me :-(

Hello there! I'd suggest that because of the regretable variation on all of the GV's that you'd need to take a really good look at the one fitted, connections, mounts, everything, and dimensions, then having had a quick shufty on ebay there are a selection from under £60 - NEW !!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-CONDENSER-AIR-CON-RADIATOR-CHRYSLER-GRAND-VOYAGER-VOYAGER-CRD-DIESEL/292266028499?hash=item440c69add3:g:30oAAOSwVlVaO93L I seem to think these are the guys I got radiator from about 3 years ago.

Yep found them! I shall be getting under the Kia in the next few days, and put some pressure into the AC system somehow to try to locate the leak. I know it has one because I tried to re gas it, and it didn't take long to figure it wasn't going to take any pressure.

I did find some from the States, only came in a set, but at the money it would be more sensible to buy the set of 4 pipes on the GV!! And the Kia ones are cheaper again, well at first they appear to be But you're dead right - a ruddy site easier than replacing those on the GV!!! However I am now about to research that particular company! Cheers @@Honda43

Never too late for a fix it tip @@Honda43! And welcome! Especially for me personally just now! I have a Kia Sedona that quite possibly has the same problem my GV had, so this could be a money saver for me, I've already located the set of rear pipes on ebay, but if I can fix it this way I'll be vary please! Do you have a picture of the "splice lok" fittings as I've not come across those? And any chance of a link to the part? I will do a seach now though! Cheers!!

Do definitely do the leak off test first, it's not that difficult.

On the Kia 3 were fairly easy - ish to get out, 2 of them did require an injector removal kit (usual auction / buy it now site - £45) with a slide hammer though, but 3 out in one evening. They are Delphi, with an M14 thread on the top of them so a doddle to get the adaptor on. The 4th one however, the one with the ton of leak off naturally, took many attempts to eventually get it out, and going back downwards a little (which I really did not want to do given how much effort it took to get it up the first 25mm) and soaking it with WD40 hoping some would get down the sides. And i managed to strip the thread on the adaptor of the kit! I'm stronger than I thought but they sent a replacement bit PDQ so Friday evening I got at it, up, down a bit, got frustrated and angry gave it everything I had and it started to finally come up a bit more. So after a breather more welly and out it came, at last. One of my neighbours is a mechanic (not too generous with his time though - disappointing after I've fixed his boiler a couple of times) and lent me a little wire brush device to clean up the bore for the injector body. It has a rod with a brass ferule on the end that fits in the nozzle hole to stop crud ending in the bores. So far so good, it keeps starting up really easily at the minute, but I'm never too sure I'm out of the woods till a while later! Doesn't spew black smoke like a Klingon cloaking device now either

Hi there! Try wheelfitment.eu this should help you!

FINALLY got the last injector to come out, oh my word it was stuck, I actually wrecked the thread on the ball joint of the slide hammer so that delayed it a couple of day but they sent me a new one no quibble. So 2nd hand ones fitted tonight and test drive and possibly hopefully maybe (supersticious me? oh yes!) it's got it sorted, I hope the bugger still co-operates in the morning!

The reason I ask about easy start is related to the injectors. Following on from the comments I made in #2 on 3rd June, our Kia Sedona 2.9 got worse, after it started 1st time in the day it would be a sod to start again without a whiff of help. After I did a leak off test it identified 3 knackered injectors, but it ran really well when it was running, apart from lots of black smoke..... All of them peed through fuel, so much in less than a minute so I had to stop the test! So tonight I have finally finished the job of 4 2nd hand injectors, and it's seeming to be sorted - we'll recheck that in the morning!!

Will it start if you use easy start

I should have proof read mine a bit more, laughed at it just now, "not a typo" then the words and figures are different ? But it was 120 ml. Got 3 out, 2 with the slide hammer 1 easy peasy. Away for weekend so will keep you guys in the laughing loop next week.

Absolutely excellent matey!!

Hi pal, from what I read of most of the guys who've tried it - NOPE not easy, but I'm sure they'll always be an exception, hopefully you're going to be it!! And hopefully those connector adaptors work well. Do your speakers have "Infinity" on them? If so then pretty sure you've got the Chrysler amp hidden in the back somewhere, could be either side, they couldn't make their minds up. That'll make it interesting, one I'll stay away from - I'm not that good with that kind of thing usually!

On our Kia Sedona we have developed a similar problem, but I can at least get it going by a quick squirt of easy start / brake cleaner into the air inlet duct at the from grille. I did a leak off test and in less than ONE minute I got quite a lot from 3 injectors. I switched it off as one was around 120ml. Yes seriously @@andyb2000 one hundred and fifty it's not a typo!!!!! Second hand set on the way, along with an injector extractor kit, here's hoping!! So the suggestion from the above is try easy start or similar.

Don't know on that one, unless it's so brief it didn't register on the meter.