bignev

Hi @@sak12345, have you checked the battery is charged? Has it started since you lost the remote? Or was it armed then you lost it? But - not sure - I think once the key has been in the ignition in the ON position a few seconds the immobiliser ring recognises it, and the red LED lamp should go out, then should turn over. And as I was typing that my memory recalled that it will turn over and start even with the wrong key - yes it will I had 2 GV's and did this - but will only run for a couple of seconds then cut out. Worried the poop out of me till I took a proper look at the key then had a laugh how daft I was. You can get a second hand remote, and have it coded into the car by a good AUTO LOCKSMITH, not just auto electrician, although they may well be able to do that. Again I have had this done. Memory is faded but certainly under £100 including the fee he had to pay for a code number for my ECU. Plus obviously the remote itself which I supplied.

Excellent!! We can eliminate that horrible option from the possible faults, marvelous! I can only pass on what I have learned and experienced and hope it helps out others! And, like the rest of us on here, I also hope it avoids some of us getting ripped off by parties who would be quite happy to play expensive "parts darts" games with these things, as they're not as predictable as some makes of car. Or just take the P. Sometimes if it's cheap enough and results in having followed a logical path a part is worth a "punt", but if possible test stuff first. As pointed out in the other post a coil is an example of that, it can test out ok, but still not perform on load. Did you mean leads and coil by the way? Having already done the plugs!

No pal not sounding thick at all - you can obviously think about the function well! Good one you tested for the plugs, also engine temp will affect how wet they will be, as it will be running rich on a cool engine. Yes it is right if the spark timing is out it could have a huge loss of power - going back to the good old days of distributors and points / condensers, if the points were out a bit, they would really struggle. I know my bikes did!! I don't have the knowledge of modern computer engine management to figure or know how it can be adjusted, it's supposed to be clever and sort itself out when it has the information from the sensors........ Weak sparks also don't do well under compression. Maybe a coil section is breaking down, mine spotted a misfire and gave up a code, P0304. But it was a very noticeable misfire in my case. I got a coil from fleabay for £35, possibly worth a gamble? Maybe a set of leads for £15 to £18? Can you get / borrow a compression tester?

Hmm right ok..... The revs topping out at 3000 to 3500 would be the rev limiter - try it in neutral (or park) to see that confirmed. Relating to another problem I've just had & posted on, knackered coil, "3.3 misfire" have a read of that and try for good sparks on all the cylinders, use an old plug on the end of the detached HT lead, I rested mine on the metal front cross panel, and see how they are doing. If you have 2 duff ones on opposing side of the coil it could be the electrical signal in to the coil, or the coil itself. While you're in there perhaps check the plugs - any wet ones indicate crap ignition. Leading on from that if you can get a compression tester then it's an ideal time to do it while the plugs are out. A lack of a code from your initial post hopefully means that there's not an injector problem!! I'm presuming that the car feels like it's driving through the transmission ok - not like it's got a "slipping clutch", has the fluid been checked? Give it a sniff to see if it's burnt or dark red / black - dead.

Hi there, Just to try to get a handle on it, is it revving its thingies off but not driving forward? Leading to transmission problems suspicion. Don't be concerned by the red hot manifold, not too much anyway, if they had it fast idling I'd not be too surprised it got ruddy hot. Diesels won't do that, and most modern stuff will be hidden by engine covers etc so they can't see it anyhow. And it must have been low light level to see that too. I had a four stroke off road bike that would routinely make its exhaust header red hot, but you could only see it at very dull or night conditions.

Ah yes of course, our current one is a face lift 2005, and as you say they seem to have combined the Transmission Control Module TCM and PCM, as the older TCM used to live in this wheel arch. Now you jog my memory I remember being disappointed I couldn't pinch a good TCM off this to try on the older one. Well simple enough I suppose, try it and see, but quite possibly it won't play. On the older one it lit up all manner of lights, and wouldn't turn the engine over at all. Swapped back to the original and all good again. Well apart from the original TCM problem I was trying to rectify anyway. Same deal when I tried the BCM - but I expected that, as I understand that holds the security data for the alarm and key transponders. But then the newer version may be less fussy..........

Hi pal it could be, but might not of course! If you can get an old plug, try one lead off the engine at a time with the spare plug in the end, I let mine rest on the front metal cross member, and check for any of them not sparking or a poor spark. If only one is down it might be what you've got. With the 2 on ours it was quite a significant stutter / judder, bizarre going on the same day though, very odd.

Hi there, If that's the unit in front of the fuse box, then when I tried it on our 2002 3.3 for a TCM problem then it wouldn't recognise it, so I didn't go any further with getting it re-programmed / coded to the car.

Hey there @@thedogss and @@jimmyybob hope yours stayed sorted!!?? Well mine decided it wanted more attention last Monday (Sat today), came up with lumpy running and shaking as the Mrs and kids put it. So here we go again with it, key dance gives P0304 so misfire on cylinder 4. Turn the gas off to eliminate that. Swap plugs for cyl 6, same stuff, plugs look ok, apart from no 4 being wet with fuel, so as the ends of the HT leads came off on the plugs thought - try them. New set of leads - well no of course not was it chuff. So right then get an old plug and see what's got a good spark - 4 AND 2 don't, bugger. As they aren't fired from the same part of the 3 section coil (wasted spark type operation) I'm going for dodgy coil. SO - 3 days later on a next day delivery from fleabay - fitted today and fired up ok. I will however now also replace the plugs, even though all the ignition parts are just 2 years and around at most 20,000 miles old. Watch this space hey guys!!!

Aha yes that's the stow n go version, as our current one. And then sadly again - nope they don't adjust.

Hi there! Assuming you got the standard seats, not stow n go, then sadly I don't think the base adjusts. I felt the same about our previous one. It felt a bit better if I angled the back rest backwards a notch, but still a little "reclined" from a comfortable position for me. Our first one however didn't seem quite so angled, so maybe I missed something, or didn't lean on something hard enough

Yep - definitely as you say get the coolant changed to start with, if it's a crappy colour it may be sludgy as well so won't circulate properly. There is a post referring to it recently in the techeart help section for version 4 Grand Voyager

Yep I had the rear washer hose problem too when I first got it, one of the guys on here pointed me in the right direction!

It could be the clutch master or slave cylinders, clutch isn't being released fully so binding a bit, hence the drag on the gears when trying to shift, but would have thought it would be the same for all. Does it crawl when in first on the flat? Try it from all gears when stationary - it may possibly be easier on the higher gears when moving.

Good stuff mate!

Yep that's the spot in the loom where that connection I mentioned is located!!

Hi there! I had the problem with all the gears being indicated on the display, I hope you sort yours, mine never did, it went to the dismantlers (rather than scrap at least). Mine however would not use any other forward gears than 2nd, shifted into reverse park and neutral all OK. The engine light came on mine too, and may be related to the not shifting, as emissions would be affected. The inside of the Transmission Control Module (you are correct) is kind of jellified substance so is very unlikely to be wet in there, but worth a look. It's probable that there is a lack of communication TCM to BCM (Body) that's causing that problem, and is very likely to be connected with the water in wiring / bad earth somewhere The "key dance" MIGHT give you the code for that, mine did at first, then later it couldn't be bothered, ruddy rude thing. When I was searching to sort mine I found reference to a common bad wire connection in the main wiring loom in front and below the auto box, but mine sadly wasn't the problem. I didn't have any of your other electrical problems, but maybe that was just a fluke hey!!

Hi mate what car is it? I'd suggest also pop it in the technical help section for more chance of one of your fellow owners to spot it!

No not wheel bearings, the top mount has a bearing in it - well it's supposed to - for when the wheel / strut is turned, so you will have done them, I hope! It's not at all unreasonable to assume the springs should have been the same, I'm just weird and having had it happen to me on other stuff over my life I gave up trusting companies to get it right, just because it's what they do. Sorry if this sounds rude but you knew complete shocks are handed I presume! I do not mean to offend!! The mounting orientation comment was made a few months ago but I can't find it either, I'll search a bit more later for you. And I would reckon you're more than likely right on duff discs!

Hi there! From your other post I deduce you've got a diesel, so yes indeed a diesel fuel filter is right at 20,000 KILOMETERS, 12,500 miles, according to my Chrysler owners manual. It's just that on modern vehicles, which these aren't really (definitely not the petrol push rod engine!!) garages tend not to do that kind of thing - "oh they'll be ok" attitude. If you think that's bad, the oil & filter intervals for the petrol engine model, with town work stop start driving, is 3000 miles!!!! It goes to the heady heights of 7500 miles if driven more "normally". Obviously I stick religiously to that ha ha. The diesel owner guys will assist on this I'm sure, and warn of the potential follow on problems if it's not done correctly. There also appears to be a couple of locations the fuel filter may be - from memory underneath next to the tank, or in the engine bay, and you may or may not have a hand primer bulb on yours. If you don't have the hand primer it could be best to get a garage to do it for you. On my diesel 07 Galaxy it was a complete and utter git of a job to get it running again, including the help of my neighbour who has a fuel vacuum hand pump, a proper one, (he works for Ford). Like not changing brake fluid on a many years old "full" service, never heard of it being done, in fairness it's not even in the Chrysler book.

Did you replace the top mounts / bearings too? That could be a source of the noise. And the shocks have got to be fitted in the correct orientation, as pointed out by another member recently. If the springs aren't fitted into the shock seats correctly they will probably also then give a slightly different "loaded" height. And could result in a pull to one side if the spring coils are under a wound tension. A huge difference in ride height could cause a pull, but I would have thought it would pull to the lower side, not the high side as in your case. Did anyone check the new springs, and shocks, were the same length - as each other?

Hello there! Well you've done them - but I was going to suggest the injectors, but it is much rarer in petrols for them to cock up, I would guess because of the lower levels of soot in the combustion chambers. You've obviously done all the usual ignition parts I would have gone for myself. Getting worse when hot used to be a plug fault symptom. Missing under load was too, and for the HT leads, but they're all new. So I'm stumped, but will continue to mull it over and see if I can think of anything obscure!

Sorry to be off tangent and even worse it's not even Chrysler, but my Sedona is (at the least) the condenser coil at the front, bubbling beautifully with some leak detection spray on it and won't hold any pressure for any time at all. So sadly the wonderful kit found by Honda43 won't help me :-(

Hello there! I'd suggest that because of the regretable variation on all of the GV's that you'd need to take a really good look at the one fitted, connections, mounts, everything, and dimensions, then having had a quick shufty on ebay there are a selection from under £60 - NEW !!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-CONDENSER-AIR-CON-RADIATOR-CHRYSLER-GRAND-VOYAGER-VOYAGER-CRD-DIESEL/292266028499?hash=item440c69add3:g:30oAAOSwVlVaO93L I seem to think these are the guys I got radiator from about 3 years ago.

Yep found them! I shall be getting under the Kia in the next few days, and put some pressure into the AC system somehow to try to locate the leak. I know it has one because I tried to re gas it, and it didn't take long to figure it wasn't going to take any pressure.