bignev

Yes that's odd, I also thought the symbol was supposed to warn us of not charging!

Hi there! And welcome! Posting in the technical help area for better replies mate. And also is it petrol or diesel!

Hi there, It could still possibly be a broken wire inside the insulation, sometimes difficult to feel. Especially if the lock / unlock still work. When testing with a multimeter you might just have the cable in a position that gives enough "touch" to make a continuity test work. I'm not sure, but I think the wiring plugs would be different for left / right or you could try swapping that over too.

Hi robbie ! Can you do the key dance to get code numbers?

Ah ok, I presume it is a petrol then as ours had a similar but less severe leak from that steel section of pipe, running down from the bulkhead where they split to feed the cabin front heater then go under to head to the back heater coil. Good luck with them locating the new piece, i got lucky and found it on ebay!!

Are they the set of 4 pipes that go to the rear heater and also the air con coil on a 3.3 petrol? If so they are aluminium on mine, and I can only guess that as soupstone suggests liquid metal with a wrap of some kind might get you home.

As an experiment do you have a partner / wife or other significant other / life sharer (you have to be so careful these days!) that could take it for a drive with you sat in the back row? For you to try to gauge if there if is actually a problem with the car. Or is it that the kids have reached an age that they get travel sick? My Mrs says she was fine on their yearly drive down to Weymouth / Geurnsey from Stockport until she hit about 11, then suffered travel sickness really badly in the back of a car.

Hiya pal! If I remember rightly, yours is a petrol like mine so should have the rear climate system, are you using to maintain fresh air when they're in the back row? But having sat in the 3rd row of hours on occasion with the Mrs driving, it isn't as comfortable as the front or middle, I definitely felt bounced about over bumps as you're sat on the axle. Then again ours are only 6, and quite happy in the back as a novelty on occasion.

Hi there! Yep if it's the usual culprit it will be one of the wires in the caterpillar track at the bottom, had enough and broken. Gets to a certain point then stops, had it on the drivers side on one of mine, but as my electrical soldering isn't up to my pipe soldering abilities it failed again, twice!! So I surrendered and got a new one from the States, shame I'm rubbish or it would have saved me over a hundred quid!! Mine has the side crash sensor, without it there were several 2nd hand on ebay. Does it still use the cinch motor to pull the door closed the last tiny bit?

Hi there! Welcome! The best area is the Voyager technical help section, but if it's a 2001 onwards model there are 4 studs through the floor with nuts on the underside, and mine were jolly tight as you may expect!! And obviously the wire connections under the seat!

Damn fine result!

Another possibility - have you got the availability of a multimeter? To check battery voltage? From my own experience on a previous GV 3.3 if the battery popped its clogs even a jump start won't do it. 12.7 volts or more after a good period of charge and 15 minutes off the charger I believe.

Excellent stuff mate well sorted! More importantly as QinteQ says thanks for coming back with a resolution! If only I could have been so successful with my old 2002 3.3 TCM to PCM signal fault. I did try second hand units at least.

Hi there. I got one for a 3.3 petrol from a company in Chorley Lancashire, around £130 new including the return carriage for the old one. I did contemplate just changing the pulley on it but decided against it as I'd have to buy the tool as well.

You can buy a second hand one from anywhere, ebay etc, but it will need coding in to your car. Mobile auto locksmiths can do this for you. So would a new one.

That's where mine came from, "wecarmats" I seem to remember the seller was. It was a couple of years ago though!!

Aww bugger I'm not special!!!!! The wife laughed when I showed her the message! Cheeky.

Good idea if you're over there! Sadly most of us aren't, so shipping is a no choice situation - wherever in the US, or world even, it's from. For a fair few parts I've had it was still well under UK prices. Like 2 ignition coils for £50. £70 each at motor factors. And having had a Blueprint one fail after a year I thought I'd get a standby for the £16.75 they were. I'm sure it wouldn't work out for bigger / heavier items, a mid section silencer for my 3.3 stow n go was £250 carriage, strangely I didn't go for it !! Moparwholesale are another one I've looked at, but rockauto had more choice than just OEM obviously.

They are listed as an option on the rockauto site so should be fine. On a mechanical point, as long as the plug thread doesn't protrude in past the head they shouldn't be a problem. If it does then after a while, when there is carbon build up on the tread, removing the plugs could damage the thread in the head.

First off it's worth a try at removing the "IOD" fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay, left side wing (drivers side on LHD - of yours is of course!). Leave it out for 20 to 30 minutes and it might just reset things for you! Or disconnect the battery instead, or afterwards if the first doesn't work!

I've double checked mine and the revs drop only slightly, maintaining some level of engine braking. As well as keeping the engine / gearbox speeds close so when you get back on the pedal there isn't a physical impact as the drive takes up again. Fairly sure all 3 of my petrols have done the same. And it's the same 41TE gearbox as yours.

There we are then - see I wasn't totally sure as I said!!

Hi there! You need to do the "key dance" to get any available codes if there are any. Put key in the ignition, from the off position turn to "ON" (NOT the cranking position) back to off then on, then off then on, at the 3rd "on" stop, and observe what the odometer does, it should, if there are any to be had, scroll through fault codes. See if they tie up with what you've already found. And please report back to us!And we'll do what we can to assist.

Hi there and welcome! Yes I have noticed that some years ago when I was looking for them, and also on autotrader. Differences are as QinteQ says, plus: The rear panel at low level, between the rear wheel and sliding door, is only just about 2", not 9". So your pictures look like Grand Voyager, Voyager, Grand Voyager. Although it says it on the boot of the car, the last picture is not that clear so not totally sure. Wheel bases are 113" for Voyager and 119" for the Grand Voyager. Not completely sure but I didn't think the Voyagers had electric sliding doors - but that is NOT definite, there could always be exceptions for factory orders from new I reckon.

Yes pal very good chance lots of stuff will interchange! Depends what you're after achieving, but take a look on moparwholesaleparts.com and rockauto.com for some info.