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maxcaddy

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maxcaddy last won the day on January 22

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About maxcaddy

  • Birthday 04/18/1952

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  1. The 'track rod ends' ordered from Jeepchryslerparts midday Friday arrived the next day (saturday), that's phenomenal delivery performance and well worth praising. Anyway fitted them fairly easily, and put it in for a retest this afternoon. Lo and behold I now have a 12 month MoT on her, so she lives for another year . 4 tyres are going on Saturday, and then a re-tracking, and that should be good enough for another 12 mts/10,000 miles. For those old/interested enough to remember Faulty Towers, I have similar relationship with my GV to what Basil had with his 1100 whereby it's been threatened and clearly knows that if it seriously misbehaves, it'll be send to the big scrapyard in the sky .
  2. Well not surprisingly it failed, but only on the N/S track rod end. I wouldn't mind but I changed them about 3 years/25,000 miles ago, and at the time didn't buy cheap and nasty eBay items, more like average cost ones . Anyway fail one did, so a pair from Jeepchryslerparts are on order. There were a few advisories especially with the tyres, but hey for 130,000 miles and 15 years, it could have been far worse Enthused with the potential success, I'll put 4 tyres on it, retest, and maybe get another year of life out of the old girl .
  3. In lieu of any response on here, it could be worth trying one of the 'Jeep' sites as one of their models uses the same engine, and being a jeep, it's possible that someone has changed theirs and knows how to do it. Okay the engine's turned 90 deg but surely the Crank sensor is in the same place?
  4. Another fine day today, and another problem solved . The offside light unit which not been working ended up being solely because the connector at the back of it wasn't pushed fully home . I've had the light out before, last time about 3 years ago when replacing the Radiator, but amazingly the light has worked since then until now. Anyway a splash of electrical contact cleaner, and it's all back in place and working fine. Next step is to renew the MoT which actually isn't due until March, but as the old girl needs a set of boots, I need to know that there's nothing else of serious note going to go wrong before investing in a new set. Who knows, perhaps it'll end up living for another year
  5. Okay half the problem fixed . The standard Aux drive belt is a 6PK1420. If you bypass the Aircon Compressor and the idler pulley above it, a 6PK1290 belt works but there is only 6mm clearance between the run of the belts, and at tickover they just kiss together. Using a 6PK1275 belt gives 22mm clearance between the runs, and other than being tight to squeeze on works fine. So instead of having to buy another compressor just to be 'in circuit' for £40 I have a working solution, which if I had been more luckier/accurate would have only been £20. If I had to do it again or if someone else has the problem, then I would suggest using a 6PK1280 belt which will give adequate clearance. and be a shade easier to fit. The hardest part of the job is taking off (& putting on) the 'elasticated' power steering belt which when working in the drive, in January, wasn't the easiest of tasks, but competed satisfactorily all the same . Now to look at why the lights pack up...............
  6. Many thanks for that . Can I assume that the FCU is hidden behind the Headlight ?, if not, how do you get to it ? I'm thinking that maybe a bit off of the Aircon pulley could have hit it . Got my shortened belt (6PK1290) only to find that it's just a gnats too long, whereby it travels too close to the return side, and at tickover the two parts of the belt just kiss together. A few revs and its fine, but it will eat itself away in traffic so a shorter belt (1280) is required. These things a year or so ago were £12-15, now they're £20-25 .
  7. Well after thinking that I had seized/stuffed Alternator bearings, the weather cleared today and I had a delve under the bonnet to discover that the Alternator was in fact fine, but the Aircon pump was seized solid. Haven't yet worked out why its solid as the drive to it is via a magnetic coupling, but seized solid it is. So, it looked like the easy fix was to bypass the pump and the idler wheel, and use a shorter drive belt running just the crank, tensioner, and Alternator. Shorter belt now ordered, and hopefully ready for collection tomorrow, fingers crossed. At the same time as the belt issue above happened, the offside Headlight unit also completely stopped working. A quick look in the fuse box next to the battery didn't seem to have any fuses or relays for the lights ?, so there must be a secondary fuse box hidden somewhere ? (answers gratefully received). Hopefully the old girl isn't dead yet, but certainly under very critical assessment.
  8. Not meeting the spec, and your local MoT man failing it, can be two different things. For example, the test requirement for being able to lower your headlamp beams (levelling devices) when you have a load on (4.1.5), was also introduced, but my local place certainly never tested it this year as one of my car has a seized adjuster. In any case on reading the requirement it says it's only to be tested if you have such a function. In other words they would have to know that the bulbs were the wrong ones before failing it, and as long as they work and the dip pattern is alright, they might not look any further. Not sure what bulbs you're using, but there is a big difference between cheap eBay bulbs and genuine Osrams in both pattern and strength. Cleaning and polishing the lens with lens cleaner may also show an improvement.
  9. I cured my battery drain problem by fitting a small ebay device on the battery terminal whereby you unscrew a little handwheel on it to break the circuit. Remember to leave the drivers door open when you 'lock' the doors, and when you've unscrewed the terminal then shut the (already locked) driver's door otherwise it can set the alarm off as soon as the battery is unscrewed. It's a pain to do everytime you stop for the night and start the next day or so, but, it does stop the battery drain . Re the Alarm, sorry but can't add anything else. Similarly mines had a hissy fit going up to Manchester for Xmas and is making such a noise from the engine (like having no meat left on the pads when braking) that it might not get home in the New Year on its own. Added to the Radio started working (after 3 years of turning itself off after 5 mins) which was short lived as the whole drivers side light cluster is now not working at all. MoT due February, needs 4 tyres, 99% certain it's going to be scrapped . Just annoying that used prices are at a premium at the moment, and 2nd hand cars going for more than they cost 2 years ago, with 2 years more wear and tear on them . So far not a happy Xmas
  10. I believe the alarm horn is a separate unit to the main horns ?. If so, and if you can find where it is, simply cut the wires to it. The flashers keeping going isn't such a pain. If you do find exactly where it is please post on here, as I get that now and then and will happily cut mine. I don't care if it makes it more stealable, or that the insurance might not like it. What self respecting toe rag is going to steal a 15 year old V'ger ? Other than that perhaps there's an alarm fault code that could be read ?, or visit an auto electrician, or live with it. Even with the elevated 2nd hand value of cars at the moment, an old V'ger with issues isn't worth very much at all .
  11. First of all I have to ask what does "no one can find the cause" actually mean ?. If the full resources of a competent Garage with expertise on GVs can't tell you what's gone wrong, then the chances of someone on here offering a workable solution, will be very remote. Conversely if the guy next door whose only ever owned new Nissans hasn't got a clue, then here's a thought or two . If you have a code reader, then the onboard diagnosis system should tell you what's wrong, but you'll need to use a reader that has the optional ABS program (or a garage which has one), as well as the standard diagnosis. That said, a very common failure mode is one of the front ABS sensors. They've failed twice on mine (in 8 years) and I found that it was easier to order both off of eBay ~ £30-40, than to guess which one it was. If it's not one of those, it could be the rear sensors or a more indepth ABS module issue, which on a 2006 V'ger is probably the death knell .
  12. Most likely sounds like an internal Gearbox problem. Key question is how many miles has it done and how good has the servicing been i.e has the Gear oil ever been changed ?.
  13. Guess you put this in the wrong section However, with a stuffed g/Box (especially after 240K) it most certainly isn't worth more than its scrap value . Which may be very unpalatable, but is a fact. A recon box nowadays has to be £2K+ fitted, and rebuilding your own will cost you £££s in heartache, labour, parts, and skinned knuckles. On the other hand you'd be lucky to (actually) get more than £500 selling privately, with that age and mileage. All very sad really, but there you go........
  14. That's got to be the easy fix, otherwise it could anything, and in the worse case maybe something in the ABS system .
  15. Unfortunately you don't say how many miles it's done, which would be a good indicator as to whether or not it's even worth the cost of changing the oil . If say we're talking 150 - 175K, then maybe an oil change and filter will save the box. If it's more than say 200K you'll be very lucky IMHO. If you only bought it 2 weeks ago it is unbelievable that the previous owner didn't know there was a problem, and as such sold you a dud. A few words need to be exchanged.
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