maxcaddy

As some of you may know my V'ger's gearbox went funny last month, and I've held out for a few weeks with the view that I might have a go at fixing it etc, but have come to the conclusion that I would be fighting a losing battle. Time had come the Walrus said, and consequently off it went this afternoon to the scrappers . After 8 years and 70,000 miles I was sorry to see it go, but it had served its purpose and that was that. Not sure what I'll replace it with, but i'm thinking maybe a large 4x4 plus a trailer for what won't fit inside. I've had an interesting time on here, and wish you all well in keeping your V'gers on the road. Adios.

Gone up you say !!!. I bought a tin of matching spray paint for my Cub Cadet from a dealer here, and was charged $29.22 . On the GV front, got to say I'm of the mind that repairing it even if its only the Solenoid Pack, is just a few weeks grace from the next thing going wrong, and it's looking like it's more trouble than it's worth to want to invest any more .

Seemed a good idea, but they're not exactly giving them away. I could have saved $10 on a cheaper one, but the $40 surcharge until I took my old one back could have been expensive .

Having booked a holiday which started last Sunday, it all went wrong at the wrong time. When I get back I may have a little go at it, but it's been warned that any serious misbehaving would be the end, and that's what its doing . Sad really as I'm in the US and there's still a shed load of them running around even quite old ones. Probably cos they've got the V6, and not an old oil burner .

Cheers Nev, There's a gentle buzzing when you listen carefully under the bonnet, but without stripping lots out its very difficult to be exact as to where its coming from. Unfortunately without the full diagnostic its going to be difficult to confirm what's wrong, there are no local places that want to touch it (neighbour had a similar problem with his Chrysler PT and couldn't find anyone to help, ended up scrapping it), and I'm very wary of pursuing a lost cause. After 9 years ownership (it's a 2007) and 133,000 (70,000 by me), with a few dents and scratches its value is at best £500, hence diminishing returns. A further test this morning gives drive after a few revs, so I might keep it for a while for emergency as living on an island (IOW) there's only 20 miles max and then your in the sea . I did swap the Autobox relay, but that didn't do anything. Only hope is for someone on here who has had exactly the same issue, to confirm what was needed to cure it (i.e. Solenoid pack). Otherwise, time has come, the Walrus said................

I think mine's now going to join Gingers down the scrappy . After this year's motoring whereby for the cost of 4 tyres and an Alternator, I've managed to do about 5,000 and 7 months use, including a 2 month/ 2,000 mile holiday in France, the Autobox is now throwing a wobbly. It started yesterday whereby after a jaunt up to London the return trip to Southsea resulted in 2 or 3 times when there was no drive when pulling away from a junction. The usual little thump when engaging drive isn't there anymore, and it needed a bootfull of revs to get it to engage a gear. Today it struggled to do anything in 'D' but did move after revving it a few times, but then struggled to do anything in 'R' to get it back onto the drive. Checked the Autobox oil which was fine, and other than some mysterious easily curable gearbox fault, it's now unfortunately finished its useful life. Any meaningful suggestions to fix the Autobox and give it a few miles would be welcomed, otherwise any call for parts that would leave it still towable will be considered. Thoughts ?

Presumably none of these would fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=set+of+grandvoyager+parking+brake+cables&_blrs=spell_check In the past a garage would make cables to suit, not sure if that goes on any more.

The question remains it only fails to start when hot. Fuel supply problems would surely be the same hot or cold ? Back onto sensors etc, what if the key/ignition switch got hot and failed to function until it cooled down ?

Seem to remember that Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning, Araldite, and something to hold it in place while it was setting fixed mine many moons ago.

Well done, any pointers you would like to share on here such as what was exactly done to silence it ?

The traditional problem with starting after leaving it for some time was to do with the fuel system loosing pressure and needing repressuring. This isn't your case which you say is only when its hot, and once it's cold it's okay, consequently the question is what can affect the engine not to start when its hot ?. That then gives you at least 2 likely routes, the first route is that there is a mechanical issue whereby for instance something gets hot like the cylinder head, and it fails to maintain compression. However if that were the case, I would expect a number of other symptoms like loss of water, overheating, lack of power, to show up long before it wouldn't start again. Most of any kind of that problem can be seen, smelt or heard, so it doesn't seem at all likely that route 1 is applicable. Route 2 is that a sensor or electrical gismo is overheating and not working once it's been turned off. I.e something like a fuel pump relay that overheats and won't re-initialise again until the engine bay has cooled down. If possible, if you could track the location of such gismos i.e. crank sensor, injection cpu, some odd fuel related sensor, etc, it could be possible to identify a part that is very hot, and which could be the source of your problems. Noting that some electronic devices generate more than enough heat on their own, which a hot engine simply exacerbates. All that said, what if after stopping when hot and failing to start, you poured/hosed cold water over the engine to see if by quickly reducing the temperate it provided an instant solution, and if so, then do it in a pattern of areas to pinpoint where the issue was ???

The simple answer is to disable the Alarm which (I think) is hidden underneath the battery tray area. Disable it by opening it up and making sure it doesn't make any noise, cos if you try something simple like just cutting the wires or pulling the fuse/relay, you could have all manner of weird peripheral issues happen. If anyone says that it will invalidate your insurance if it were stolen, then the answer is A, you didn't know it didn't work, and B no self respecting or infact self loathing toerag, is going to steal a 17 year old V'ger. If mine were to start playing up then that would be the first thing I would try.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_nkw=chrysler+grand+voyager+steering+rack&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=chrysler+voyager+rack

See who's breaking what on eBay if you're after a pump or rack. Any local hydraulic hose company should be able to repair hose failures by swaging a new section in. I used to use a company called Pirtex many moons ago, not cheap but excellent quality.

Well done . I suspect many on here are at the stage (like me) whereby if you can keep it rolling you're winning, and if the repair is too much or too difficult its scrap yard time. Obviously faults that can be fixed should be, and that's what you've done. However I think that we're all coming to the end of the line, and things that are difficult (like my instrument panel) will be a death knell come MoT time .