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maxcaddy

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Everything posted by maxcaddy

  1. The traditional problem with starting after leaving it for some time was to do with the fuel system loosing pressure and needing repressuring. This isn't your case which you say is only when its hot, and once it's cold it's okay, consequently the question is what can affect the engine not to start when its hot ?. That then gives you at least 2 likely routes, the first route is that there is a mechanical issue whereby for instance something gets hot like the cylinder head, and it fails to maintain compression. However if that were the case, I would expect a number of other symptoms like loss of water, overheating, lack of power, to show up long before it wouldn't start again. Most of any kind of that problem can be seen, smelt or heard, so it doesn't seem at all likely that route 1 is applicable. Route 2 is that a sensor or electrical gismo is overheating and not working once it's been turned off. I.e something like a fuel pump relay that overheats and won't re-initialise again until the engine bay has cooled down. If possible, if you could track the location of such gismos i.e. crank sensor, injection cpu, some odd fuel related sensor, etc, it could be possible to identify a part that is very hot, and which could be the source of your problems. Noting that some electronic devices generate more than enough heat on their own, which a hot engine simply exacerbates. All that said, what if after stopping when hot and failing to start, you poured/hosed cold water over the engine to see if by quickly reducing the temperate it provided an instant solution, and if so, then do it in a pattern of areas to pinpoint where the issue was ???
  2. The simple answer is to disable the Alarm which (I think) is hidden underneath the battery tray area. Disable it by opening it up and making sure it doesn't make any noise, cos if you try something simple like just cutting the wires or pulling the fuse/relay, you could have all manner of weird peripheral issues happen. If anyone says that it will invalidate your insurance if it were stolen, then the answer is A, you didn't know it didn't work, and B no self respecting or infact self loathing toerag, is going to steal a 17 year old V'ger. If mine were to start playing up then that would be the first thing I would try.
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_nkw=chrysler+grand+voyager+steering+rack&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=chrysler+voyager+rack
  4. See who's breaking what on eBay if you're after a pump or rack. Any local hydraulic hose company should be able to repair hose failures by swaging a new section in. I used to use a company called Pirtex many moons ago, not cheap but excellent quality.
  5. Well done . I suspect many on here are at the stage (like me) whereby if you can keep it rolling you're winning, and if the repair is too much or too difficult its scrap yard time. Obviously faults that can be fixed should be, and that's what you've done. However I think that we're all coming to the end of the line, and things that are difficult (like my instrument panel) will be a death knell come MoT time .
  6. Well, discovered another little foible, the door mirrors won't fold in unless the engine is running . There's probably some other oddities as well, but that was the last thing of note. Of course having to start the engine again on a busy Ferry with a tradition belch of smoke, wasn't what everyone else wanted . Now the good news, it's made it to the Pyrenees (again), but I did treat her very gently on the Motorways .
  7. Fairly sure the radio isn't the main failure as it stopped working about 4 years ago, the same time as the GPS, and long before my recent woes started. To conclude the weird instrument cycling I can live with, the lack of central locking is inconvenient but liveable, and the uncertainty whether it all might suddenly stop has been mitigated by the fact its still running 2 weeks later. So unless it gets significantly worse I'll keep it running until something else goes wrong
  8. Which beggars the question as to why ?, what's so special about the CD/DVD that it has to come on before other things ? In my case with my dodgy radio that switches itself off after 10 mins, there's some fault in there and I suspect its powering something or creating a draw which flattens the battery after awhile. Hence, then why is it 'unswitched' ?, and is there a fuse protecting it that can come out ? Okay, I could fire it up and take the fuses in and out to see if any of them stopped powering the unit, but as the old girl is on borrowed time, and that I don't want anything further to go wrong with it, I'm wary of touching too much. At the moment it's liveable, and the faff of manually locking the doors, and have to have the engine running to open the tailgate is an inconvenience I can bare.
  9. Well I've poked and probed inside and out, and whatever oddity is going on is lost on me. That said apart from the 'weirdness' of it, it's actually running fine, it's just the 'what's going to happen next' is unnerving. One thing that is curious is that whenever the Battery is reconnected, the CD player does a cycle through the CDs with the CD lights flashing even though the ignition is off. Obviously then there's some connection to make it happen, and logically some fuse to protect it, which could be where the problems are ?
  10. . Wow, a bit like comparing scars and bullet wounds . The biggest problem for me is that A, they don't make them any more, and B that there isn't anything similar on the market to replace it. In this day and age I struggle to understand why if you have something which was successfully marketed around the world, then why did they (FIAT Chrysler) stop making it ?, seems totally dumb to me. But hey in the words of many, what do I know .
  11. Well many thanks chaps, however....... It's not the IOD fuse cos I took that out many moons ago. It's not rebooting the system cos that happens every morning when I reconnect the Battery. It's not Fuses Nos 5 and 20, cos they're now both out, and its not better. It's not (as someone else said to me) a dicky battery, as I changed that, and it's exactly the same. What I have discovered is :- that to lock it (noting the key fob now doesn't do anything) you have to sit in it with all doors closed and Ignition on. Then Lock it by pushing the switch on the door panel down, and it all locks. Turn ignition off, use the inside door handle to unlock the drivers door, and then get out. then lock the drivers door manually outside, and it's all then locked. A right pain...... Anyway, all the time it's running it's useable, even though this latest scene of events is somewhat annoying. I did read the riot act to it a couple of years ago after when I replaced the Thermostat and Radiator, with the threat that it would be going to meet the great recycler in the sky if it went wrong again, and in fairness it has behaved itself until very recently. I'm just optimistic that there's something silly that has failed, and that I can easily/cheaply sort it out, otherwise I can see my patience wearing thin if it continues to mess about.
  12. In the past whenever I've gone to start it and the battery was too low, the gauges (water/fuel/revs/speed) all did a full sweep and back to stop. At that point I knew it wasn't going to turn over, but always tried just in case. Sometimes after disconnecting and charging the battery, it did a 'full sweep' when it was back on, but then always started. As I've had a 'battery drain' for the last 3 years I always disconnect the earth when its to be left overnight. Now, after fitting the replacement Alternator and charging the battery, the first thing is that the remote locking doesn't work. Key on to Ignition, and the gauges do a full sweep each time its turned on and off (battery always connected). None of the internal door switches now work without the key onto ignition setting. The central locking tries to unlock the already unlocked doors when flicking the switch on the door card, but it won't lock them. Internal top of windscreen switches open/close rear doors and lift tailgate only when the Ignition is on, whereas before they would work without even having the key in. Back to the dashboard its also doing a wobbly whereby turning it on gives no dash warning lights at all, but turning it off makes the oil warning light come on even with the key out. So, some fault associated with odd dashboard sequencing and door locking - does that mean anything to anyone ? Lastly, worn batteries in the remote could be causing the remote locking to fail, but shouldn't affect the car controls for it ?. Have to say that I really don't want to play about too much with the alarm bits, as doing it wrong and having the alarm go off and bringing the neighborhood out to see what's going on (done that too many times) is somewhat embarrassing.
  13. Many thanks indeed for the answers, which cures my curiosity. Unfortunately in fitting the alternator and poking the fuse box, another interesting anomaly has started, which I'll check again this morning, and suspect I'll be seeking advice later on .
  14. While poking around in the fuse box in the faint hope it was something other than the Alternator, I spotted a curiosity. No6 Fuse can be inserted either of two ways middle to IGN or middle to Bat, on mine its towards the IGN side. Without delving into the history of whys and wherefores, could some kind soul tell me what this fuse covers, why its on mid/IGN, and what would happen if I changed it to mid/BAT. Okay, it's been like that for over 8 years but now I've spotted it, I'm curious. Cheers
  15. Well, I found a £115 Alternator on fleabay, fitted it, and it works fine. Which is what I hoped for other than some silly wiring/electrical fault. So, the old girl soldiers on .
  16. Cheers Nev, I'm fairly sure that a new Alternator will fix it, but it's just the buy an Alternator, buy a wiring loom, buy a fuse/relay box, buy something else, etc, etc, pathway, that I don't want to go down. I put a few feelers out to folk who know more than me, but I can see an Alternator on order by the end of the weekend .
  17. Just as the old girl was running fine, the battery loses charge. A quick test shows it down to 9 Volts with nothing changing when you rev it telling me its not charging. After 15 years and 130,000 miles, culprit is 98% most likely the Alternator. However mice chewing the wiring, and a shed load of other possibilities could exist. Any other time/year I would of simply ordered another one for £100 ish, and it most likely would be the answer. Now I see prices are more like £200, and I made a decision a while ago that I was not going to keep spending money if it starts to regularly fail. So, other than a knackered Alternator has anyone had another issue in the 'charging line' whereby buying a new Alternator didn't cure it ? Ta (PS its not the battery)
  18. Okay, taking it from the top, The pads have absolutely nothing to do with the handbrake. However the discs actually are part of the handbrake assembly, because the handbrake shoes run within the disc. I.e its a rear brake with pads that clamp either side of the disc in order for the rear brake to work, while for the handbrake to work, the handbrake shoes expand within the disc. That being the case, while the outside of the discs and pads could look and work fine, the inside drum part of the disc could wear oval and make the handbrake fail, as could having worn shoes within the disc. Both wear on the disc and wear on the shoes on the inside drum part of the disc cannot be seen when changing the pads. (Note I'm not saying yours are worn, just that they could be). Hence the MoT man telling you that the handbrake works off of the rear wheel drums, as they have pads and shoes sounds confusing but is actually is exactly right, although they would be better described as rear disc/drums. However he is wrong in saying that the pads need to be changed, and you are right in that there are shoes for the handbrake. It's exactly the same setup as I had on my Ford Explorer 15 years ago which was quite easy to do, whereas when they needed doing on my V'ger 5 years ago was a pig as there is very little room inside to work with. In fact the easiest way of changing the shoes is to take off the rear hubs to give you some access . Hopefully that's shed some light not the shoes wear meaning new shoes and discs would be needed.
  19. As long as it starts and runs, keep yer fingers crossed and just use it till it breaks . The lack of warning chimes is likely to be the least of your worries .
  20. Yo my man, Where do you suggest that you can run a 'vehicle history report' for a car in the UK, and secondly, where can you buy cars in the UK that are 18 years old without any damage or defects ? Curious minds need to know .
  21. Good luck. It's actually not too much of a job to do yourself. Once the wheels are off, it's just a case of getting to the electrical connector under the wing liner and undoing a 6mm (?) bolt on the housing. Assuming the bolt isn't seized/stuck, it's off with the old and on with the new. For the cost, it's worth doing them both as while I was told there was a failure when my light came on, my garage couldn't tell if it were left or right (that was the first time the light came on ~2017, the next time 2021 I just changed the pair straight off). If that doesn't cure it, it could be the rear sensor(s) or an ABS control/pump problem, in which case the repair cost is likely to exceed the value.
  22. Not sure why shouldered studs would be essential ?, as it's the centre of the hub that's used for wheel alignment/perturbation. Unless it's having a shoulder on the rear of the stud to stop it unscrewing when the wheel is undone ?. The only advantage I would have thought for shouldered studs was as a production aid/cost reducer.
  23. Absolutely, you'll need that wonga to buy all the other tools/test gear that you'll need to keep it running .
  24. Or, get a modern car with it all fitted which then should/will work. Messing about with an old decrepit GV is not the best way to spend yer spare time
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