maxcaddy

Cheers Nev, I'm fairly sure that a new Alternator will fix it, but it's just the buy an Alternator, buy a wiring loom, buy a fuse/relay box, buy something else, etc, etc, pathway, that I don't want to go down. I put a few feelers out to folk who know more than me, but I can see an Alternator on order by the end of the weekend .

Just as the old girl was running fine, the battery loses charge. A quick test shows it down to 9 Volts with nothing changing when you rev it telling me its not charging. After 15 years and 130,000 miles, culprit is 98% most likely the Alternator. However mice chewing the wiring, and a shed load of other possibilities could exist. Any other time/year I would of simply ordered another one for £100 ish, and it most likely would be the answer. Now I see prices are more like £200, and I made a decision a while ago that I was not going to keep spending money if it starts to regularly fail. So, other than a knackered Alternator has anyone had another issue in the 'charging line' whereby buying a new Alternator didn't cure it ? Ta (PS its not the battery)

Okay, taking it from the top, The pads have absolutely nothing to do with the handbrake. However the discs actually are part of the handbrake assembly, because the handbrake shoes run within the disc. I.e its a rear brake with pads that clamp either side of the disc in order for the rear brake to work, while for the handbrake to work, the handbrake shoes expand within the disc. That being the case, while the outside of the discs and pads could look and work fine, the inside drum part of the disc could wear oval and make the handbrake fail, as could having worn shoes within the disc. Both wear on the disc and wear on the shoes on the inside drum part of the disc cannot be seen when changing the pads. (Note I'm not saying yours are worn, just that they could be). Hence the MoT man telling you that the handbrake works off of the rear wheel drums, as they have pads and shoes sounds confusing but is actually is exactly right, although they would be better described as rear disc/drums. However he is wrong in saying that the pads need to be changed, and you are right in that there are shoes for the handbrake. It's exactly the same setup as I had on my Ford Explorer 15 years ago which was quite easy to do, whereas when they needed doing on my V'ger 5 years ago was a pig as there is very little room inside to work with. In fact the easiest way of changing the shoes is to take off the rear hubs to give you some access . Hopefully that's shed some light not the shoes wear meaning new shoes and discs would be needed.

As long as it starts and runs, keep yer fingers crossed and just use it till it breaks . The lack of warning chimes is likely to be the least of your worries .

Yo my man, Where do you suggest that you can run a 'vehicle history report' for a car in the UK, and secondly, where can you buy cars in the UK that are 18 years old without any damage or defects ? Curious minds need to know .

Good luck. It's actually not too much of a job to do yourself. Once the wheels are off, it's just a case of getting to the electrical connector under the wing liner and undoing a 6mm (?) bolt on the housing. Assuming the bolt isn't seized/stuck, it's off with the old and on with the new. For the cost, it's worth doing them both as while I was told there was a failure when my light came on, my garage couldn't tell if it were left or right (that was the first time the light came on ~2017, the next time 2021 I just changed the pair straight off). If that doesn't cure it, it could be the rear sensor(s) or an ABS control/pump problem, in which case the repair cost is likely to exceed the value.

Not sure why shouldered studs would be essential ?, as it's the centre of the hub that's used for wheel alignment/perturbation. Unless it's having a shoulder on the rear of the stud to stop it unscrewing when the wheel is undone ?. The only advantage I would have thought for shouldered studs was as a production aid/cost reducer.

Absolutely, you'll need that wonga to buy all the other tools/test gear that you'll need to keep it running .

Or, get a modern car with it all fitted which then should/will work. Messing about with an old decrepit GV is not the best way to spend yer spare time

Seem to remember that the Transmission Relay is located within the Auto box (not certain though).

And there's no faster way of draining yer battery

Okay, I've not looked/done my homework, but, surely you could have bought the right hubs without having to 'mess about' with swapping studs etc ? Considering someone liked Jeepchryslerparts stock them FRONT HUB & WHEEL BEARING FOR CHRYSLER GRAND / VOYAGER 01-07 FWD | eBay wouldn't that be an easier solution ?

Maybe someone on here can transcribe P0888 into an actual fault, but alas not me. If you've just bought it, it's most likely it's exactly the reason why the previous owner sold it to you

Richard, Nev, spot on with your answers, but even a cheapo battery with some charge will/should turn it over. Most likely there's a drain issue going on which the previous owner tried to address by fitting a new battery, clearly without success. On a 15+ year old vehicle, I would suggest simply fitting a 'battery isolator' like this Car Battery Switch Isolator Terminal Quick Cut-off Disconnect Master 12V 24V New | eBay which should solve his problem

It would be interesting to know how many miles your GV has done. In any case I would advise caution, as by asking the question I would guess that you haven't changed one before, and it's not a job for the faint hearted. That said, it's situated about a third of the way down the back of the engine. Good luck

First thing would be to see what others have had with a similar issue, and how they fixed it. For example ....

Curious as I didn't think Diesel GVs were that popular in the states, unless that EGR solenoid fits other models ?, and if so, knowing what those other models were might make it easier to find one in the UK .

Cheers , clearly a design feature then . Got to be honest I was worried until I found out what it was, and then cos the EGR has never been off or been cleaned in 15 years, it wasn't a surprise if it were gunged up. As this could be its last year, I'll leave it alone to next year depending on how regularly it comes on. You're totally right re the EWL going out, as irrespective of who says what, on some cars it will only go out only when reset, whereas on others it can clear itself on start up .

Well magically for no reason at all the engine warning light came on and stayed on over a few hours despite stopping, parking, etc, although other than that it ran as usual. By the time I got home, and had a coffee, opened the garage, found the code reader, and started it again, the light was off and stayed off . There was only one code P0402 EGR flow, which I cleared and the light hasn't come back. Over the last 8 years/70,000ml ( 15 years/130,000 in all) I've never had the code or issue before, so the question is ....Is this a one off or will it come back again ?, and do I need to change/clean the EGR or maybe take it for a good trash/diesel additive ? Answers welcomed

What's the history ??? I.e have you just bought the car, or you've had it 'n' years, it's done what miles, it's had issues before etc etc.

It's really quite a straightforward job to do as long as the 6mm retaining bolt doesn't snap off. Cos if it does you're in a world of hurt . in any case, best to replace with a stainless socket head as it'll be easier next time.

A couple of thoughts from last year..............

First comment is that had you put your problem in more understandable terms you might have had a bigger response Anyway, a simple solution is that usually it's one of the front wheel sensors failing which can be bought for about £30 each, and buying the 2 is a wise move. If that doesn't solve it and let the light go out, you have a more in depth problem which most likely will need a garage with full ABS code reading ability to solve

The 'track rod ends' ordered from Jeepchryslerparts midday Friday arrived the next day (saturday), that's phenomenal delivery performance and well worth praising. Anyway fitted them fairly easily, and put it in for a retest this afternoon. Lo and behold I now have a 12 month MoT on her, so she lives for another year . 4 tyres are going on Saturday, and then a re-tracking, and that should be good enough for another 12 mts/10,000 miles. For those old/interested enough to remember Faulty Towers, I have similar relationship with my GV to what Basil had with his 1100 whereby it's been threatened and clearly knows that if it seriously misbehaves, it'll be send to the big scrapyard in the sky .