bignev

Nice work fella - well done and thanks for putting results on here - should be appreciated by all! Not too relevant to me as I've got 2 LPG ones, but useful all the same.

Hiya Daz how are you? I am going to do mine in the near future, start of summer service time. Could you let me know how you get on after changing the transmission fluid as I've read sometimes you get hard shifting for a bit after the job until it setles down again. Hope you are well!

I know what you mean, just how can they make profit? The one from the states looked almost identical, but it had colour coded fitting on the arms for left or right!!! Keep us informed!

I got a central loocking motor from the US last year for around £23, delivered, from ebay. The same motor from these guys fits both doors using a different adaptor arm. Easy enough to try, but a pain in the bum, taking the inner door card off you can get at the motors, then see if they move with the arm removed, and also try it on the opposite side door - not fitted just plug it to the wiring loom. Just had a quick shufty on ebay on the "similar items"search and came up with this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Rear-Sliding-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-For-Chrysler-Town-Country-Voyager-/281979353479?hash=item41a7477987 looks exactly like mine, only even cheaper!!!

Bit of a guess but could be the drain tube from the wiper linkage / air intake scuttle in front of the windscreen. From under the bonnet see if you can spot one plugged up on the opposite side of the car.

Yep chuffing huge pal!! As penguin says the only real problem would be insurers inspectors being jobsworths if you have an accident. My foot as yours only really uses the right side of the pedal (well with the size of yours you'll use more of it hee hee) so in reality it would not be at all unsafe, but if they want to wriggle that won't be the point.

Couple of questions: How ruddy big ARE your ruddy feet!!!!!! I guess you have long legs too, I don't but do tend to drive with the seat a lot further back than leg length would dictate. My foot fits nicely just in the indent at the side of the console. Try getting the seat as far back as you possibly can maybe? I tried my mates new Mondeo recently, bloody crap driving position in comparison, wheel too low (at highest) and too close, crap. And how far does your pedal travel, mine moves only around an inch. I guess its a typo from Penguin, left foot braking possibly you meant!

I've had the dubious pleasure of travelling in the rear row myself, and I swear my missus nails it over speed bumps to upset me!! It does feel very harsh in the back of mine over them, at a normal pace. But fine on normal roads. As you say, you are sat over the back axle, not a great place to be.

hee hee hee! But some good info in it, like how far they won't go between oil changes when used round town all the time - 3000 miles!! Pushing it too far will damage the chain - search Vauxhall 2.2 petrol engine forums. Bloody good price that gas!!! Yes mpg should go up hey, and I guess that funny smell won't bother you anymore, less drag wear on the rear tyres too!!

The petrol engines don't have rubber cam belts, they are chain driven. I've had 3 of them, 2 on gas like you! Technically it's not a camchain, it's a timing chain as it doesn't do it in the same way as "modern" engine designs do. Check your handbook for suggested intervals - there aren't any. Feel slightly smug that we don't have to do that job. And feel slightly more smug that on gas ours work out less pence per mile than diesel. Recently got the heady level of 26 mpg on a run, at 44p per litre - 101 for diesel, divide 44 for LPG, gives 2.295, multiply this by 26mpg makes an equivilent of 59.68 mpg - fecking awesome!

Result!! Good to know information!

Hiya, I had a local key "specialist" to cut a key and code in the new transponder in it for £60. But I have since found a mobile guy who could have done it as well, he programmed in the spare second hand remote for it.

I read it somewhere on here, when one of the other guys was doing it, and they did mention the location of the amp, as most of them have the infinity speaker system, which is supposedly rather good (all of mine certainly have been).

Oh mine will come out with it running, no problem! At least you could force a stall on the engine in a manual, mine would ahve to run oput of fuel.

From what I've read it's a blooming nightmare to do that. Even experts struggle apparently. I use an ear piece, same in my van, and my Mrs has a bluetooth enabled satnav in the car.

My 2002 has always been the same as that, had it just under 4 years. Quite useful to leave the radio on for the kids when filling up actually. Try an experiment, have it in neutral not park, switch it off, and try taking the key out then - mine won't bizarely. The key won't even turn to the actual off position!

Bloody bargain!! i was quoted a fortune - around £400 - for the newer 5 button double push type. So I bought a second hand one and had a mobile guy code it in for £60. I did buy an older 5 button single push from Chrysler in Barnsley, Yorkshire, for £65 though for a previous car. And a key with transponder was around £60 from an independant, cut and coded in. So all up, for Chrysler, good money hey guys?!

Absolute result then pal!! Very rare to find a company that will keep you that long, makes a nice change!

Nope! Especially for Basildon area post codes! Seems good money, but don't do it without running the internet comparison sites first, I got a pleasant shock last year. For both ours, both GV, on LPG (so adds extra for most insurers, not all) saved 30%!!!!!! But our post code isn't that great, south manchester but stockport code, and not a great section of the area sadly. Moneysupermarket Compare the market Go Compare Confused and others, auto trader have a link from their site

Yep good idea, keep it looked after, they are ancient technology engines after all. Not remotely like the "modern" stuff that will go ages between changes.

lovesmyvoyager - use that 15 / 40 to give your engine a good flush out of all that black cack. And put some flush additive in the old crap oil before you drop it out - plenty hot - and you will see / feel a genuine difference. Yes it will take you a bit longer on the drive, but worth it. My time consuming technique for my vehicles (not every time guys no) 1 - drive the car get it hot, come home put the additive in, idle on the drive for recommended time until fans come in / go off (if they do on your diesels) 2 - drop old crap out. If you can bring yourself to do it swap an extra filter too. 3 - fill engine with your 15 / 40 (or in my case when I'm feeling OCD the flushing oil) 4 - run till hot again, or say 20 mins, with occasional fast idle 5 - drop that cack out and be surprised how black it still is 6 - change filter 7 - put in your lovely new 5W-30 and be surprsed how clean it is, for a bit anyway! So to sum up, in Britain, for diesels, without any silly extreme cold winter days, either 5W-30 or 10W-40 is fine. And basically for petrol the same ultimately, but with preference to 5W-30, semi synthetic. And don't stretch oil change intervals, especially if you do towing, lots of idling, short journeys, my book says 10,000km (6250 miles) in that instance, or twice that if considered "normal" driving routine. Petrols are down to 3000 miles for town work etc!!!!! Or 7500 miles for normal use. Or you choose obviously, it's your engine.

This is the next page refering to the oil for diesel engines. Sorry, just proof read it!!! Will rescan it later just on was out, it say " "Engine Oil requirements - Diesel Engines" the bit it missed. Diesel engine oil.pdf

Managed to scan part of my book, shows that in theory 10w 40 is totally suitable for our climate. But as mine is petrol, I have just read onwards, see this about the diesel oil - sorry to put the cat amongst the pigeons as it were, but Chrysler recommend 10W-40 for diesels, see the second page below. Oil Grades.pdf

If you have the original handbook (of any car) there is an interesting chart which shows the crossover ambient air temps of the oil grades. As Qinteq says we don't exactly have real extremes of cold (2 years around 2008 ish excepting I believe). But as 5w 30 is thinner it helps get round quicker on cold starts, and less drag on running. One of the several reasons almost all stuff uses it now - fuel economy. And people used to warm up engines before driving, a long time ago hey! But as an old school engineer I used t worry how it could do its job when it was like pee when pouring it in, but it does. I did try 10w 40 for a week in my 3.3 petrol as a flush through, didn't sound or feel or start any different. Back to Magnatec after that. On another point, lots don't recommend it, but I've used actual "Flushing Oil" on a few occasions in my 2.5 diesel van. It takes 8 litres! Followed by a sacrificial oil change before putting the proper oil in. It looked like new through the filler for ages, and ran and sounded better too. Just an interesting point, the motor factors tried to sell me 5w 30 full synthetic for it, after 6 years of 10w 40, their data base had changed. So I carried on with the 10w 40 semi it was built with. Had it just short of 10 years, and about 20 oil changes - because it can do lots of short trops some weeks which means repeated cold starts and the usual sooty diesel oil.

Yep, sounds just like my rear discs. Didn't have to take hub off though, managed to back off the adjuster, and get brutal with a lump hammer on the discs.