bignev

Nope nor mine, not getting signal through the system to the latch release

My 2005 is the same, and I have changed the handle electrical switch which is now fine. It should open with the handle yes. I can only guess it's something to do with the tailgate ecu, behind the panel on passenger side high up in boot area. I have swapped one but no joy.

Hi there! Oh dear yours is being very unfriendly hey! I only have a couple of suggestions on your list for you: !) wires under the seat - give them a gentle wiggle - mine did it 2) similarly on this - dodgy wiring 3) sliding door wire track has probably got broken wires that will need soldering, assuming the central locking still works on it - if not it's probably the locking actuator cos if it won't unlock the door won't motor open. 6) check your power steering fluid!! 7 and 8) sticking brake caliper - very very common - all 3 GV's of mine have had replacement rears. If its drags it will use more fuel. Any hot smell when you get out of the car? Do a search to look up the error codes. Cheers Nev

Yes if it's a 4th generation model. But not the 5th gen 2007 onwards

Ruddy good point that is Chrisp. It never occurred top me - as mine have all been petrol (LPG) I've never had the auxilliary heater privilige on cold days! But they get warm quickly I suppose.

Hi guys - it's easy when you know! Use the metal tab of the other buckle to press into the slot on the retained one (I would need my glasses and a torch to see it now) - out it comes!

Now then - if you do try that and it won't activate the starter motor, pull the relay instead. Just had a flash back on it being very clever!

Might sound daft but try a Chrysler main dealer - some parts are good money, I've had a few!!

Yep wierd isn't it?? They're not that rare!

While you checked the voltage at the sensors did you manage to check the condition of the speed sensor rings? One of mine was duff and did the same as yours are doing now. I pulled the fuse till I replaced the shaft with ring, and obvioulsy have full braking, but no anti lock function - way better to have brakes!!!

Very wierd that!!!! I don't know how but maybe it had something to do with the cruise control "cylinder" on the second cable, near the battery??

If that doesn't do it check the wires in the caterpillar track, I've soldered mine 3 times now. Plenty of vids on you tube!

Cheers Argee! Main dealers are not always daft money........not always

Good to hear you are a glutten for punishment pal! But the there is bugger all else that will do what these will, sadly hey!

Do it with 2 of you!! When I did mine and the alternator (noisy bearings) it took me longer to get the belt back on that swap the alternator - about 45 minutes!! I was at it from top and underneath repeatedly as it kept falling off again. I used a 1/2" drive socket strong arm to lever the tensioner. The problem I also had was the idler pulley bearing was wrong from all the auto factors, including the usually sound guys on ebay! Actual part number is 04792581AB. The rest was awkward but not a complete nightmare.

Didn't the proffesional who regassed it say anything??? Are you getting the clunk of the AC compressor clutch pulling in, and / or fans coming on? Did it work when they did it?

On the central locking, you can confirm if it's the locking motor by getting the one off the working side and plugging into the duff side, if it the moves the actuator arm that's all you need. Searched ebay (where mine came from) and found this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Chrysler-Town-Country-Voyager-Rear-Sliding-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-/331859612551?hash=item4d445fd387:g:HVoAAOSwADNXPYOw Mine actually came over from the US, there were no UK sellers last year!!

On the engine light question, don't dismiss the possibily - if it was a private seller, sorry to be suspicious - that they reset the light to get rid of it. When I sold my 2nd GV, AFTER a test drive and getting a deposit, I put it back on the drive and THEN the light came on!!!!!!!!!!!!! Blooming unbelieveable, but it happened. All it was on that was the Lambda sensor heater, so I got him the sensor, agreed a discount, and he arranged to get it fitted as I couldn't sort it in time. Engine code readers are cheap as chips on ebay and will clear engine codes. But it won't clear the problem, which is why the lights come back on.

Welcome Newbie! Or, they were available from Pentagon Chrysler in Barnsley a year or so ago....... I paid about 7 quid each if I remember rightly, I've had a few bits off them, at much less than breakers wanted. Best one was the triple zone fan speed regulator (petrol models), £85 delivered new, or £90 old and used plus postage

No they don't, the LX doesn't have electric sliding doors or tail gate, and various other niceities.

Nope they don't fit because of the width - tried it. Not if you want to use the seat belts anyway......... As in the 2 will not go where the bench is. Looks like it will, with the rails, nearly put my shoulder out rawnging them around to try it.

me too!

It is rather pathetic for a big lump isn't it!!! All 3 of mine have been the same so it's not down to settings or anything

Yep! Blackpool Zoo at weekend in our 05 3.3, way nicer than the Galaxy.

i would try cleaning the egr valve and passage ways first. I presume it is driving differently, down on power or in limp mode? On some older cars blanking off the egr can improve power, but not legally for emissions. Newer ones would probably need reprogramming. If the valve is sooted and sticking it could be giving the ECU a headache. After that amount of time and miles the problem is absolutely NOT related to drillings that are missing.