bignev

Oh yes it's no return once that sanding disc hits the lens! I did it early, before a drive we will be having up to the Scottish borders, so if it went tits up I had plenty of time to get hold of a second hand one. Well worth the effort. The instructions say to mask off the area around them to avoid damage, but I notice you did what I did - take them off as it's only 3 bolts, much safer.

Just done mine - I am a copycat - very pleased and not too difficult at all, just a little tricky to house the box as my cables were fairly short. Ended up bolting them up on the headlamp bolts!

Well I took a gamble on a very cheap H7 HID conversion kit off ebay, £12.99, and it's actually very good (so far). Also changed the high beam H9 bulbs for xenon white, and the side lights for some led's, 13 yes 13 in a tower form and they are ace- very bright, especially after I followed the lead of the member on the headlight restoration kit.

Well as they say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, so I have copied you and am very pleased with the result on my headlight!!! There are still some flaws in it, but not on the lens now. Only really shows up if you stand to the side and look for it. Would also highly recomend, as you and another user has, the (very cheap) HID low beam conversion kit - chuffing brilliant - £12.99 ebay - thought it would be rubbish but took a gamble as I was going to replace all the bulbs for the "xenon" white ones while I had the headlights out. Hope it lasts!

This is one of the youtube videos - search for Chrysler Town & Country 2005 pulley alternator noise Hope it helps anyone else Nev

Hi there, I've pm'd you on the video. If the tensioner wasn't doing its job and the belt was loose I would reckon it would squeek or squeel as it slipped. The interior lamps and headlights flicker on our other one that never made any noise, bizarely, but charge voltage is fine so I don't worry about that personnally. Probably something not quite spot on with the voltager regulator / rectifier.

Hi guys! Well we are on our third! Been working up the spec sheet - 2002 3.3 LX, (still got it - on gas), 2002 3.3 Ltd, changed that for a 2005 3.3 (again) Ltd XS, stow n go - also on gas! Yeah we think they're fairly ok too!!!! Not without faults but not much is hey! And lots can be sorted much more cheaply than you might think.

My handbook said H7 dip and main but mine are actually H7 dip and H9 main beam! 2005, facelift headlights model. So I won't order the H3 then, not till I've seen it hey!

Flipping heck thats a good clear lens!!! Was it "fogging" ? One of mine (drivers) is, and I've been looking for a not too expensive replacement, not found one yet obviously! Cheers, Nev

Hi there, It's fixed. New alternator - blooming lovely now. A lot of American guys have posted video of the Dodge Grand Caravan or Chrysler Town and Country doing exactly what mine did.

Hi there, sorry its been a while, holidays then back to work (self employed) at 300 mph on return. Anyhow, as the decoupler pulley required the removal of the alternator to get it off, I had a change of plan. Do the alternator. So have just done it tonight, not too bad a job really, about an hour - but mine I reckon has been off before - the bolts weren't that tight and the EGR valve bolts came out readily too (that had to come off to get the alternator out of the engine bay!!! If you don't have one then it won't be in the way. The oil dip stick tube is not in the way - some US sites suggest it needs shifting - mine didn't. More of a pain in the bum was trying to get the blooming belt back on all the pulleys, probably spent an extra 45 minutes tarting about with that! On my own though. Probably 5 mins with 2 people. But the really good news is that now it doesn't do that horrible noise anymore. So I hope you haven't spent money on anything in between times! I did manage to get a video with sound this morning as well, if you're interested to check its the same noise as yours. Cheers, Nev

Hi there, Don't know if they are the same, but I got a new central locking actuator motor for our Grand Voyager sliding door from the USA, delivered, for under £23! They are an aftermarket part, and the same unit fits both sides, it came with the 2 different arms, just fit the one you need. Do check you have voltage to them first though hey! Ours was obvious, it tried to move but only "twitched" when taken off the door with power connected. Apparenetly the motors magnets go weak, not uncommon. Cheers, Nev

Hi there, Only a far out shot, but is the key the original? I've had a similar problem but not on my GV, it was a Renault and the transponder had moved in the key, so the reader ring around the ignition didn't always see it. It would crank over like yours, but no ignition. I'm sure the original Chrysler keys won't let that happen though. Does the red secuirity light on the dash go out confirming it's happy with the key? Cheers Nev

The gear oil looks fine on ours too, and good on level, 1st thing I checked on the hunt!!

And also I tried it in gear, foot on brake, revs up by say 200 rpm, and it goes away - not very likely gear box

But if like mine it does it when AC on but not in gear then its not gearbox - good for you and me. Mine is also silent when driving, getting to / from our house we have to drive down a road with cars either side, so with windows open and when revs are up slightly and moving (so torque converter working) it doesn't do it.

Hi there, depends on the exact noise but mine does it too. I have posted one about "noisy engine when in gear", does yours do it when Air Con on but still in park or neutral? Mine does (2005 3.3 stow n go 91,000 miles). But the other we have (3.3 2002 also 90,000) is sweet as anything, and the other 2002 we had didn't do it either. Does it go away if you raise the revs slightly, mine does. I have a weak suspicion it could be the alternator "auto decoupler pulley" bearing, I've ordered one and hope to replace in the next couple of weeks, will keep you informed. I do know its not the belt tensioner or idler pulleys, or water pump, they're new. But the power steering pump isn't, but having had one go on one of the others it sounds nothing like that. Cheers, Nev

I will be very interested in the answer too, all 3 of ours have always kicked down way too early for my liking, nowhere near full throttle on them and it drops down and revs its thingies off. (with or without the lpg - 1 never had it fitted, and the other 2 did it before on petrol too). It would be good to be able to use more throttle to make advantage of the big engine torque - if its got any, never known it ha ha ! Nev

Yep Pentagon Chrysler in Barnsley, a couple of months ago got the pipes from the joint you are talking about to the rear coil, with the heater pipes too, for our 2005 stow and go version, for £165.00!! They were in stock in the UK, took 2 days to get to the dealer, I picked them up to avoid damage in transit!!! Their parts guys were very good, emailed us the picture to confirm they were the right ones. Hope they can help you too, Nev

Hi guys, just wondering what relevance the engine running and applying the foot brake hard has? Due to the foot operating the hydraulic disc calipers and the hand brake operating the shoes in the drum? Other than to stop the car moving while you do it? I didn't think mine (2002 LX in this case) had an auto adjust on the shoes in the drum. If they were the brakes I would expect it as they wear, but not on the hand brake, but could well be wrong!

There is a tiny slot on the inside (of the car) of the handbrake drum on the wheel, which you are supposed to be able to turn the shoe adjuster through!!! It's an absolute sod to try to do. Lots of bits in the way, leaf springs etc. No idea what the jumping lever could be sorry, but I'd suggest if you are capable to take the wheel and drum off to check the attachment of the cable and the returm springs - but I guess you've done that if you know the shoes are good. Cheers Nev

This is possibly not that much use to you, but we had a Mazda 6 2.0 diesel, with the awful DPF (diesel particulate filter) that used to do this. What ours, and others I believe, did was when it thought the filter needed "regenerating" (cleaning) it would squirt more diesel fuel in on the exhaust stroke of the engine to theoretically "wash" the filter in the exhaust. However what did happen was that as the engine got a bit older the fuel would wash past the piston rings and into the sump, diluting the already thin 5/30 oil. It even had a big yellow advice sticker on the engine cover advising that when the "oil" level went UP to the 'X' mark to do an oil / filter change. So if yours has an injection timing problem maybe it's something remotely similar? Or could be nothing like! Cheers Nev

Hope someone can shed some light on this. 2005 3.3 V6 Stow and Go. At idle when I put it in gear (any), OR put the AC on, with both then its worse! We get a deep "ruh ruh ruh" noise. If you increase the revs even very slightly it goes away. A little bit of research reckons it could the "decoupler pulley" on the alternator. Has anyone else had this? This our 3rd GV and the other 2 didn't (or don't - still got 2!!) do this. Only had the AC pipes replaced and regassed recently so up to then put it down to gearbox, but obvioulsy it isn't as the AC will make it do exactly the same noise. Here's hoping guys! Cheers, Nev Brown

I'm sure this is way too late but for future reference on the forum - Pentagon Chrysler in Barnsley, Yorkshire, have a very helpful parts department. I have just had the water and air con pipes from them, which run from under the drivers foot area to the 2 rear coils, heater and AC, supplied in 2 days, all 4 aluminium pipes £165.00!!! Would not suggest a delivery as they are so massively long, one from breakers arrived bent in half, not much good. Complete sod to fit though! And I have also done the pair of coolant pipes from behind engine on the bulkhead running down to meet these new pipes, leaking due to corrosion under the drivers foot area. Also a sod to do!

Sorry also meant to add our engine light did come on too, but when the guys (Panache in Manchester) adjusted the system its stayed off since but it never, ever ran badly, smooth as you like from the off, no different at all from petrol. We've not got the valve saver oil thingy. Car now has 90,000 miles on it.