bignev

According to the workpoo manual fuses 1,2,3 control the front lights
1 - Front Fog Lamps
2 - left parking / turn lamp 
3 right parking/ turn  lamp & rear lamps
( assume the parking lamps are also the front sidelights ?
Headlights are fed directly from the front control module (both high and dip
Bulbs blown ??
Switch dodgy ??
wiring damaged ??
 
let us know how you get on

Hello all,
I'm a newbie here. I would like to say hello to all. I hope everyone here is doing well so far.
Thank you so much!

Thanks for posting a 'solution' reply - helps everyone.

Sorry didn't motice the 6 speed auto bit...Ooops - check fluid level - again mileage / service history. Is it the same hot or cold - the engine / transmission - not the atmosphere. Sounds like luxury to have 6 speed auto but maybe 1 1/2 times the probles of a four speed ?
As far as I am aware there's no workpoo manual available for this model ?? - If it's anything like that for the Mk IV then you are not missing much.
 
Transfer the question to the GV 5 forum and see what happens

Depending on how much you value the vehicle you could try drilling out the threaded section of the camshaft and helicoil it -WARNING  may destroy the engine if not accurately done.
otherwise;
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head cover
(2) Remove camshaft position sensor and camshaft
target magnet 
(3) Remove timing belt 
(4) Remove camshaft sprockets and timing belt rear cover 
(5) Bearing caps are identified for location.
Remove the outside bearing caps first 
(6) Loosen the camshaft bearing cap attaching fasteners 
CAUTION: Camshafts are not interchangeable. The intake cam number 6 thrust bearing face spacing is wider.
(7) Identify the camshafts before removing from the head. The camshafts are not interchangeable.
(8) Remove camshafts from cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Ensure that NONE of the pistons are at top dead center when installing the camshafts.
(1) Lubricate all camshaft bearing journals, rocker arms and camshaft lobes.
(2) Install all rocker arms in original positions, if reused.
(3) Position camshafts on cylinder head bearing journals. Install right and left camshaft bearing caps No. 2 – 5 and right No. 6. Tighten M6 fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 28).
(4) Apply Mopart Gasket Maker to No. 1 and No. 6 bearing caps (Fig. 29). Install bearing caps and tighten M8 fasteners to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Bearing end caps must be installed before seals can be installed.
(5) Install camshaft oil seals (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL(S) - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install camshaft target magnet and camshaft position sensor.
(7) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install timing belt rear cover and camshaft sprockets (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/ TIMING BELT COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION).CYLINDER HEAD COVER
(From the workpoo manual - sorry images are impossible to load due to stupid size restriction imposed on the forum
 

HIya.. yup seems everyone (if there are more than 1) have gone AWOL... spamming, well at least the witch doctors still haunt the site.

I agree pal, but I'm not sure if the site moderators / head guys are around much if at all. I can only go off the spamming that went on for a while and didn't get erased from the forum.

Assuming this is a late registered Mk 4, there is only one relay feeding the mirrors(according to the workpoo manual (no did not spell it wrong), if it's a Mk 5 then don't know.
Possibility the switch is at fault. Tried to upload an image from the manual but 18.iKb doesn't permit !
With respect to the park assist suggestion 1 - remove battery negative lead for 10 minutes... 2- clean each sensor individually with soapy water ?

Again, back to the lurid story of failure to start when the engine is hot (well not hot as in overheating, just hot as in at running temperature, that is to say between 1/4 and 1/2 on the temperature gauge).
Start the car in the morning (today it was -6 Celsius this morning, key in, wait for glow plug light to go off, start (turns over five or six times), fires up and idles perfectly. Drive along, accelerate etc. no problem. 
Drive 10 - 15 miles ( at -4 Celsius) Park up for 5 - 20 minutes, gauge is just off 0) Start up after glow plugs off (1 - 2 sec) away we go.
Park up for 6 hours, same - no problem.
Drive long enough to get engine hot, difficult to do at this time of year! Park up (say 1/2 hour), engine still hot, warm no way it will start without a blast of cold start, then drive, accelerate all tikety-boo.
Only error (repetitive) is P1130 - fuel pressure too high, too low. (Very helpful).
So over the last two years or so, pressure relief valve changed, pressure sensor changed, pressure solenoid changed, injectors checked So what else can it be ?
I read a post on the JEEP SITE , sighting the non return valve (FUEL FLOW BACK VALVE (Yank speak)) as a possibility ?
Has anyone replaced this pipe assembly, if so easy, hard, what am I going to bugger up ? (I have a spare car with a good engine (knackered gear box or associated electronics)
All replies gratefully received but it ain't normal fuel starvation - she accelerates like (expletive).
Doesn't normally stall - did a couple of times in the past but I put that down to me changing things and not bleeding her properly.
Pipe assembly thingumy attached -no it's not fails claiming file size too big (17.1Kb ??) - sorry
 

Happy New Year Richard!
And I concur with all you said!!
Pants to being correct 

oops, bit late but still... from a qualified owner (it's still running & passed the MOT ) a hope a good Xmas was had by one and all and that this year 2023 may prove to eventually be better than 2022. 
God save the King ...
God save Ukraine....
God damn Putin !
 
(Trust I'm not being too political..... at least I left out the swearwords)!

Same here..But Merry Merry Christmus..

I had a similar problem to this with my Delta diesel.
Garage said I was not doing mileage during pandemic ......
Eventually replaced battery with an uprated unit.
Took into garage - put onto computer checker and battery good, but was drying before their eyes 14.71 .... 14.XXX etc
Error code came back to the clutch system!  
Elaboration: I have size big feet. In the intervening weeks when having this problem, I had somehow 'kicked / nudged / moved' a make break switch on the clutch pedal. There is no warning light - but it throws up an error code. Effectively there was a closed circuit draining the battery.
Remedy: Replace the switch* above the clutch pedal and then fabricate a 'box' to prevent it being nudged.
The *switch was ok looking from outside - but refused to open / close on examination. Stupid place for a switch was the mechanics commentary.
Has worked now for 18 months without any further problems.
 
Hope this maybe of use
 
 

anyone here that can help?

Hi, 
David Evans off the Facebook Group.
If the pic was from the back of the car I am sure that broken rubber concertina part is the handbrake cable gaitor!
When was the autobox last calibrated? A long time since my two selespeeds but I imagine they re not that different but it made a big difference.
No sure on the knock, could be anything suspension or steering related.
Low oil pressure could also be from using the wrong oil or from a faulty sensor.
There is AutoLusso in Bournemouth or Rusper Alfa near Haywards Heath who are Alfa specialists and will know the autobox as it is the same a Giulietta. Also Sussex Alfa in BN6. which may be nearer.
 
HTH
 

There is in fact no lift pump at all on the 2.8CRD, all the fuel is delivered by the vacuum created by the main (high pressure) pump, therefore any resistance in the fuel line, or air leakage will screw the fuel delivery completely. Mine has suffered from poor starting when the engine is hot from the day I bought it, never solved the problem except by squirting cold start - seems odd but works. Fuel filter housing is always suspect, replaced mine some time ago when the diaphragm gave up the ghost. 

I concluded that as the SKIM gave an error message only with this problem I would look at the other error codes. I had one which was low pressure at the injection manifold. This got me thinking.
A few weeks ago the engine died when going up a hill as it revved up but restarted. It died again as I accelerated off a roundabout but restarted OK. This was the same fault I have on my old GV when the fuel filters needed changing. I would run fine but die at 2500/3000 revs every time. I decided to leave it for the moment.
Remembering this I put in 20l of diesel and it seemed to start more easily. I then filled up the tank and the problems have gone away. I haven't run the tank down to the level I had the problem but that will be the final test and ill post the result if changing the fuel filters will sort it out. I read somewhere that there is no scavenger pump on the 2.8CRD just a lift pump so I wonder if the fuel flows bank when low and cant get past a clogged filter fast enough to start.

Hi my nick name is Smuggler given to me by workmates years ago
I have joined to find out information I need from time to time time and hope access parts and accessories from new places as I have had trouble getting some parts recently 
Have read forum before thought it would be good to join

Believe me they don't need any change to go pear-shape!

Sad to see you both go! Pop back and let us know what you get next! 
You don't have to own a Voyager to impart your knowledge and experience! Please check in now and again! 
All the best mate, Nev

As mentioned had both sides done maybe 1500 miles ago. The noise was a knock originally so managed to get on a lift. There was little movements hear and there so within the week had both drop links changed, sway buses, tie rods etc etc. Finally I asked mech [he's a friend who's a mechanic for big building co that allows private work after hrs]to drive the thing..'its the bloody shock''.... Thing is they still look new so its not something you expect.
He didnt install them, he suspects it wasnt installed correctly on that side [passenger] I remember viewing the guy taking it out, somehow he was trying to disassemble  ON THE VEHICLE [shock had gone thru the spring sideways and poking into the wheelarch]..the spring shot across the bay missing his head by inches.
Anyway, noise is now extremely loud, right/left turn stationary, forward/reverse move even 3 ft... any movement you can hear it
What I was after was the whole thing including spring for straight swap with no sprng compression involved..Appears not available, you can get the version for petrol...which states petrol only.
Post Script...
Again the abs light comes on after playing down there, did it last I had brakes done, changed the sensors which fixed it, that was 600 miles ago....
These cars are like a hypochondriac, slight changes and they think they're ill

Can not advise with any experience of this procedure but have extracted the procedure from the manual - treat with caution, the manual appears to be a guesstimate with procedures relating to the CRD - from previous experience.... hope it helps
ExhaustManifold.pdf

Thanks for that...Will get on with it.
Luckily I have the twin to the one lost/misplaced. Hopefully that may hold useful info.

The world's gone blooming bananas on everything.  The Baxi boiler I frequently fit has gone from a grand to £1320 in less than 2 years. Disgusting. How the heck can any normal person survive this? 
It's sad on the car, but I also think ours may not be too long for this world. Its got several tinkling clanking noises, and a very rusty suspension top mount under the bonnet. And I'm not very inclined to tackle a oair of front struts. They're only 6 years old anyway, brand new complete units. Humbug. And an exhaust blow, again, and it's still drinking coolant. Hey ho.

Hi there, just wondering if I'm on right car here as I thought all cars only had 2 wheels to a handbrake. Handbrake at front, ha, think I'll pass on this one.