Fiona

Thanks for the advice.

I am now on my 3rd GV. I have a 2007 Stow n Go. I am now facing the engine cut out problem when revving near 3000 rpm that Ive had with my other two GV's which were 2.5CRD. I know these had two filters, the screw on type near the engine and the paper type near the tank. Every time I try to find filters for the 2007 2.8CRD I can only find the screw on type. is this correct? And on another topic, where and what type are the three non-return valves in the fuel line? Thanks in anticipation.

Bang on the money. I tried loads of selant etc. In the end I took it to the garage who cut off the rusty pipes and inserted rubber hose. It took him 7 hours labour. Its fine now. The exhaust was manged but its OK now.

What did you get? After 3 GV's, I'm thinking of going for a Volvo XC90 - I have the trailer already.

I concluded that as the SKIM gave an error message only with this problem I would look at the other error codes. I had one which was low pressure at the injection manifold. This got me thinking. A few weeks ago the engine died when going up a hill as it revved up but restarted. It died again as I accelerated off a roundabout but restarted OK. This was the same fault I have on my old GV when the fuel filters needed changing. I would run fine but die at 2500/3000 revs every time. I decided to leave it for the moment. Remembering this I put in 20l of diesel and it seemed to start more easily. I then filled up the tank and the problems have gone away. I haven't run the tank down to the level I had the problem but that will be the final test and ill post the result if changing the fuel filters will sort it out. I read somewhere that there is no scavenger pump on the 2.8CRD just a lift pump so I wonder if the fuel flows bank when low and cant get past a clogged filter fast enough to start.

Thanks, now that's a very interesting theory. I am also getting a P1130 code and that's pressure at the rail. I cant use an ODB2 reader as the Chrysler is different but I know how to get the codes displayed on the dash. A few weeks ago I had the engine stall twice at around 3000 revs going up a hill. In the previous two voyagers this was a fuel filter being blocked and replacing these sorted it out. So it could be worth looking at the fuel supply.

Chyrsler Grand Voyager, stow and go. 2007 model starts, then dies eventually it works. I put the ignition key, it cranks, gos to start then dies, if I keep on turning the ignition key it eventualy starts and runs fine. If I turn it off and the try to restart again seconds later then I get the same thing. I have removed the 12v battery for several hours and also removed the IOD fuse. That makes no difference. I have tried this with both keys. The internet tells me its a fault in the SKIM module and the fact it runs OK leads me to think its an permanant intermittent fault of the SKIM not seeing the key all the time. Any ideas? I have seen some people talk about a dry joint in the SKIM module and as an electronic engineer that seems feasible. I really dont want to pay a Chrysler dealer £000's of pounds to change every module at my expense so I am looking for an easy answer. I have had three GV's over the last 20 years but never had this issue.

I have a coolant leak underneath the drivers side. Its dripping at a bracket of two black pipes. I cant get to a garage for four weeks but I need my car, Ive looked in the 2.5CRD manual as I have had three GV's but I cannot find what these two black pipes are for. If its the Webasto Ill get under it with axle stands and put in a radiator hose bridge as a temporary repair. So my question is - is it the webasto pipe? Two pipes come down from the engine move to the rear on the drivers side and have a bracket holding them just under the drivers seat.

I have found and solved the problem. I have a CD with all the parts and wiring so I printed out the relevant pages and studied and thought. I took the door lock out that contains all the switches, door lock and latch unlatch motor. I Inspected the wiring, pulling back the sleeving and found one damaged and one cut wire. Repairing them both solved the issue but how they were cut is a mystery, when I bought the car it wasnt working but that door was dented. However, I still can't make out how the wire was cut. It took me quite a while to put back the track at the bottom of the door. Just so you know what the problem was; Press any undo button the door will unlatch, then the module ticks and nothing else happens. Manually slide the door back, press buttons, nothing.

I have the problem where the door unlocks then nothing. I have changed the motor and the control box from one side to another but its still the smae. I have taken the wiring out as everyone said but not only could I not see a break I put a pin in the wires by the door pillar and found the other end in the plug using the beep on a Fluke multimeter. They all seem fine. Any other ideas? I would also like to find a wriring diagram from this area Its a 2007 model with a 2.8 CRD

Hi I am on my second Grand voyager. My first was a Y reg 2.5CRD. It went after failing the MOT but 16 years, 250,000 miles and just needed a new clutch, turbo (had a runaway with loads of smoke), clockspring and a wheel bearing. Not bad really. The faults at the end filled an A4 page but it was so good I bought a 2004 2.5 CRD. The only time I have ever bought the same as the last car I had. This one is a mere youngster with only £110K on the clock. I have just replaced the bumper after an altercation with a small deer on the motorway but I need help as the new bumper has pop up jets. I have added the relay and fuse but nothing so far. I have put 12v on the pin 87 and they work. Do I ned to re=program the ECU? In case you ahvent guessed I am a rare beast, I am an electronic engineer who likes getting her hands dirty.