bignev

Or have you looked on ebay?

I just did and came up with the stuff you need a piece of cake - and having seen the pictures on the USA site they look the same, but listed for the UK 2010 diesel model - for a LOT LESS money.

 

My local autofactors have occasionally been stumped with mine - had 3 (overlapping each time) in the last 6 1/2 years, but always got what I needed from ebay or USA. Sometimes cheaper from 4500 miles away and that's crazy.

No worries mate I will help if I can - but note mine is a 2005!

 

Yep I got it would be diesel, but the yanks don't do parts for diesel variants we have to work round it sadly!! Mostly chasis stuff is the same but not always.

Hence the reference to part numbers. Hope the garage managed to get them from the Chrysler dealer!

 

Mopar are Chrysler original parts, simply.

HI Rob!

If you have been able to get the Mopar Chrysler part numbers you could try Rockauto USA.

 

For their 3.3, or 3.8, or 4.0 petrol the part number for the lower suspension arm (control arm) is 4766910L, prices from £38 to £69.14 for the Mopar one, plus carriage and vat.

 

Rear offside wheel bearing 4721762AK COULD be the whole hub assembly with bearing, assuming you have rear disc brakes, at £144.05 plus vat and carriage. Or down to £83 for an alternative manufacturer.

This includes the ABS cable, shows it on the pictures.

 

I just ran it through with the Mopar parts, and delivered in 3 to 6 DAYS would be a grand total of £309.07.

 

I don't have any secret parts data, I just went on the site, went down to Chrysler - Town & Country - 2009 ( yes you said 2010 but early so used 2009 to be before the change date) then looked for the parts.

 

Cheers

Nev

Updates and photos are very welcome and useful, cheers mate! Quite a few problems topics go unfinished as the original poster never let's us know what resolved it - so our knowledge base doesn't expand!

On the positive side it could well be just a hose gone..........

 

I presume you mean the webasto diesel heater as that's under the car, the cabin heater matrix is inside the car in the centre of the dash layout, kind of behind the ventilation control panel.

No worries!

Assuming it isn't leaking out of the bottom then put more in, don't know what the capacity is on the diesel but my 3.3 petrol is over 12 litres.

Keep filling slowly until engine gets warm and the thermostat opens, when I believe from reading on here it will "burp" the remaining air out into the expansion bottle.

Possibly try with just water first to establish if there is a leak, but then definitely make sure you put the correct coolant in.

 

"New radiator needed, is this one ok" is one topic heading I'd suggest you read.

 

I had a water pump leak around May / June and topped it up with 3.5 litres but it was still fine on temperature!

I'd start with it needing more coolant in there.

Several threads recently on topping up and venting the system.

Hmm no it wouldn't, because if the engine was running the flywheel would be turning and separated from the gearbox and wheels by the clutch being pressed down.

Ha ha yes I did, looks like they had a similar annoyance to me!!

 

So try removing those wires, but you would think the switch being off would do the trick!

Hiya Frogland!

Yep got a reasonable idea - try pulling out the Air Con relay and see if it stops, ours does it, even with the AC switched off, not on AUTO setting, it can decide to pull in the compressor and fans. Easier to hear over the engine noise of the petrol!

 

Left out for a day or two it has settled in the past but I often get fed up of it and leave it out!

I'm psychic!? 

 

I agree I'd rather have the suppliers have a clue what's on my car! But as QinteQ on here agrees their databases are wrong too often on these anyway hey!

 

And as it's a diesel the Rock Auto USA website probably won't help, but there a Moparwholsale site that possibly will but they are US and don't really cater for the diesel variant.

 

Perhaps contacting a supplier on ebay from Finland with your chassis number maybe? not got any other useful suggestion sorry. I will do a weather dance for you for the weekend! I'm outside working on ours but it is at least under a car port!

 

Regards,

Nev

Hi there!

The easiest most definite way is one you may not want to hear, but it won't take that long depending on your mechanical skills.

Take the wheel off and measure them.

I realise you may be a mm or so out, but at least 290 can't be confused with 302 !! 

Hi Keith and welcome!

 

From what you describe I'd suspect the radiator is slightly cacked up, but not massively as you don't say it has a problem at speed on the flat.

Take a look at the recent topics regarding radiators and coolant, it will put you in the right direction I reckon.

 

You are correct that the electronics will adjust the mixture to cope with the altitude.

 

They are VERY comfortable cruisers aren't they! Mine still pees me off with its regular little problems, but it's still a cracking car for the job, not much gets close for any money.

 

Tech help, on version 4, is the better area for getting answers.

 

Cheers!

Nev

What part was it?

Hello there!

Only a chance, but I may have a suggestion on number 6, the seats.

 

A mate of mine had that problem on an old Vauxhall Omega. There MIGHT be a hexagon nut at the back of the seat runners, if so, try turning it with a socket to free it off.

The indicator flasher unit (and I don't actually know if yours has got one) would be the culprit on many older vehicles, cars and bikes.

 

It is related to load through it, which is (only possibly!) why all 4 lamps make it work then it gives up again on indicators.

 

My old bikes would light up but not flash when it gave up.

Hello and welcome!

 

The post needs to go in the technical help section, but if you read the post "Just Thinking Gearbox" another guy has had a VERY similar thing recently.

 

Cheers

Nev

Fair enough, they obviously don't have the kit my local guy did. Not actually too bad a price that anyway.

 

One shop front car locksmiths could cut and code a key for me, but said it was main dealer job for my Grand Voyager 5 button remote - obviously it wasn't.

Hi there!

If it's lost it's communication a mobile auto locksmith should be able to recode it to the car.

 

I had a second hand spare remote coded to my Grand Voyager. There might be a way to do it yourself on the 300C but regretfully I don't know.

Hi again, as I said I don't know if it has them - I have a Grand Voyager.

But firstly give the battery a good charge.

Hello there!

 

Does it wind over at all? If not, try charging the battery! It wouldn't be the first time, radio on while working, interior lights etc.

 

Lights will still work but not enough battery guts to turn it over - especially on a lovely big motor like yours.

 

Or could you have disturbed a crash sensor? If they have them! I don't have a 300, just offering some general thoughts to hopefully set you on the road to recovery!!

Hey not a problem pal!

Yes as you've discovered the water should be up to the top of the rad.

A bit odd that it had any trapped air, the stat should have an air weep hole, which if installed correctly at the top allows a very small flow of water and any air to escape past before it opens up, maybe it's not got one and then when it lowered the coolant it went pear shaped from there . But anyway it's good now and that's what matters!

Heck no it should be chuffing hot! Try - with a big towel under your hand - taking the cap off, sounds like a load of air still in the top of the rad and system

On the 3.3 petrol the hose to the stat also goes to the top connection on the rad, self air venting into the rad, and the rad has a lovely old style rad cap so it's a total piece of cake to fill and vent it.

 

If you don't want to drain it, no worries don't bother, just let the bit out that will weep when you undo the oval 2 bolt flange that holds it, but the stat is a DODDLE to do. Just search the wonderous web for pics - you will see.

 

Filling up so simple it's ridiculous - rad cap off, fill through it, idle engine with heater set to full heat, top up till it starts to come back up as it warms up, put cap back on, job done.

Well nearly - check it a couple of times over the next couple of days. And check the level in the expansion bottle to the passenger side down behind the rad.

Cheers pal - I couldn't find it cos I couldn't think of that name!