bignev

Not many Chrysler owners at all come to it. 

Hi @RichardM

Well it's 2 months in, and so far loving the new motor!

We've not done too many miles, but it is jolly well very, very, nearly as comfortable on a 120 mile run as the Voyager, but smoother, quieter, and more powerful, with very similar handling, and even more spacious!

A new toy for me to buy trinkets for!

I guess the problem with mobile websites is you don't get to see the dates, Sept 2023, or other useful info, like how many posts the OP made, a whole 1.

I'm gonna reckon he's not around, pretty much like anybody on this site anymore 

Don't reckon it helps 18 months after.......

Yes pal, we are the last of the old guard!!

Haha, it took me a year to let go of the one that had a TCM to BCM comms fault, bit less attached to this one, been a pain in the backside!

I will still keep looking on here though!

It had a very fixed deadline of November 23rd, as it's MOT expired that day, and a nice chap took it a week before.

We went to look at a Toyota Vellfire the day after, private seller, did a deal and picked it up last Friday!

We had been talking to the local import dealer, but they mucked us around, first spoke to them in April, and get the feeling they thought they had us "over a barrel" because we had told them about that deadline. We specified we wanted a service history - if I was paying good money I certainly did - but they then lied and said they don't come with records for "privacy", but never said this in the last 6 months!! Some other dealers adverts had history, but not on the spec of car we wanted, so we fired them off!

It's bigger, well taller, but not longer, than the Voyager by quite a bit, do I recall you are a tall bloke, if so you may want to consider one of these, Alphards or Vellfires. They are all Jap imports, 2.4 or 3.0 or 3.5 petrol, and wow it's lovely!

This one has been converted to LPG by the only UK owner, which is something we would have done!

Hi to the very few people who come here!

Our Voyager has finally had enough, and went for parts to a lovely chap last week!

I wish him well, and good luck, he'll need it!

Cheers guys!!

Hi there!

Don't know why the rear doors are playing up, but try removing the IOD fuse for 20 minutes, quite often resets some things.

That protrusion on the door, is linked to the petrol flap, to stop the door opening if the flap is open being filled.

Ebay?

That's a shame mate, but it's not just inconvenient stalling hey, as you say ruddy dangerous!

I thought ours was a gonner last week, flat battery several times, I thought parasitic drain, and I'm REALLY not interested in tracking that down.

However, I had the battery checked at our local battery suppliers, and a day after being on charge for 24 hours it was 10.6 volts, bad enough, but only 130 cranking amps!!!!!!! So it's toast.

The label has gone, but I remember it was from Tayna batteries in Wales, as we were on holiday in Abergele at the time where they were based, most probably one of their "Powerline" model 096R, so should be around 630 cold cranking amps!!

So when we are back from holibobs, I will reluctantly have to stump up for one, humbug!!!

You've done way better than most with these dumb handbrake designs!!!

Nicely done on a horrible job mate! 

A good write up for anyone contemplating the task!

I've only done that job once, on my van, and getting that blighter out required a level of flexibility and dexterity I struggle with now!! Certainly the rear 2 (of 3) bolts, hidden well.

It sat nicely at the front of the engine though, below the egr pipe and above the starter motor, which was another thrutch. Sadly it gummed up again not so long after, but blanking it off presented no problems or lights. When I tried that on my petrol Voyager it didn't like it - chucked a light and a code, harrumph.

It'll be the blending damper doors, nope I've no idea how to fix it.

Blending dampers.

Nope, no idea how to fix that!

Managed to give it a good clean as my Mrs never does!

Obviously, it rained immediately afterwards!!

Too right matey!!

Thin aluminium sheet rolled round it, and black high temperature sealant from my local Autofactors. Marvellous.  I think I'm due under there again soon sadly......

It's just had its FOURTH water pump too! One when I got it 9 years ago, about 80,000 miles, one done by me - never again, one done by my mate just under a year ago, and one a month ago. I've bought cheap, and I've bought dear, doesn't make a jot of difference to this thing!! 

Some radweld too, let's see how long it doesn't use coolant for this time. Have you got a stop watch? 

Sadly, Richard is probably right.

But, give it a go - disconnect the battery for half an hour,  as a few of those circuits will reset this way. I would say pull the IOD fuse, but in this case go the whole hog.

There are also the fuses under the steering wheel as well as the box under the bonnet, just check them all and hope something has done its job and protected things!

Hiya there!

I have the same situation, same car, nothing in the UK.

So either one of the stainless steel make one on the car companies, or a fortune from the States. Yep. I've carried on bodging it so far!!

Well, it's 8 years on, but the above still stands!

Good luck with it!

Hi there, try mopar.com 

Good Luck

Hi Dave, I wish I could, but absolutely no idea on yours. Ours is at the front of the engine, but it bears no resemblance to yours sadly!

I had a similar one on the Grand Voyager. The light stayed on at very low revs, bring them up a little and it went off.

When the engine is running, dip the oil, if it's NOT on the dipstick then the pump is at least sending it round the engine.

My knowledge of oil pumps doesn't extend to if they "wear out" and give poor pressure or circulation volume, but my problem was the oil pressure sensor.

I've got my fingers crossed that a fluid change helps you!

As, from my own experience, even with NO communication to the Transmission Control Module, I still had 2nd and reverse gears.

On Chrysler part numbers I have found that superceded, or newer, numbers go from say AB to AC to AF, you should get the idea.

Not unlocked properly via the motor? And the internal handle then moves the mechanism far enough so the motor can engage?

Ah, I'm at a loss there, very odd.

I reckon you need a proper auto locksmith, and they could cut you a second key at the same time. If you have the one fob, get a second hand one off ebay or wherever and they can code it to the car at the same time, I had one done for ours years ago. They will need a code from Fiat Chrysler, so they have to be a good company.