bignev

Ooh heck that's not at all cheap!!!!!!

They've gone up dramatically since I did mine a few years ago, including shipping from the States, from Rockauto, was around £80 I think I remember.

hi @wherry did you get anywhere with solving this problem?

OOH NOW - how cheaply could you pick up a shift solenoid pack while you're there?????

Part Number - 05015646AB

Ah yes, I just thought of it, yours may have a drive by wire throttle and that would buzz, mines cable.

Its a bit of a gamble, and not so simple on these, but maybe a fluid change? And as massive longevity isn't a consideration use cheaper normal ATF instead of the Mopar expensive stuff? 

Hi pal,

Can you hear any buzz, or indeed anything, from the solenoid pack on top, front, of the gearbox? If it went quite suddenly and the fluid looks and smells good it's a thought....

Yes - to re-programme the key, if it needs it, you will need the services of a good auto locksmith, not a duff one. But if it worked before it should be OK. 

You can also try removing the IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse for 20 to 30 minutes to give it a bit of a wakeup, I've done that too for various things.

I've said this on here a couple of times, I had a second hand 5 button remote coded to ours by a great guy, after the local "shop front" company claimed it was main dealer only and would have to be a NEW remote.

Good stuff!! Good result!

I guess quite a few of us have learned that we have to live with some limited (or none) functionality of certain parts of our "beloved" transports!!

Hi there!

I tried the actual glue for car mirrors to windscreens, lasted many months, then a hot day saw it off. Tried it again, OK for quite a while, then off.

So now I've used superglue the last couple of times, arm gets a bit achy while it goes off sufficiently, but it does last a good while!

Yep it is indeed a dangerous possibility when they cut out with no warning. And yes, aren't modern cars bloody heavy on the steering with no assist!! As, of course, they are geared high to work with the hydraulic assistance, not like when we were boys - no assistance whatsoever, but geared low to be able to turn the bugger!!

My Subaru SOUNDS like a Porsche, well you know kinda, as it's got the same flat 6 engine. But nowt like the exhaust audio tuning sadly. 

Hi mate!

I really wish I could help out on this, but as you know mine' petrol / LPG. But it really is ruddy mysterious!

A few years ago we had a Kia Sedona with the 2.9 diesel engine, and it wouldn't start hot after a while, but it never cut out. Blew black smoke when you booted it like a Klingon cloaking device though!! That turned out to be the injectors, I changed them myself, as the useless toads round here were "too busy" chicken more like.

My van had a non start problem when the non return valve failed, and if I primer pumped it while the Mrs wound it over it would start, but it had to be done at the same time - not prime then go to start it - that wouldn't do it.

However temperature was not relevant at all.

Hi there, sorry I have no idea of anyone down your way!

But- a garage with a code reader SHOULD be able to read ABS codes.

Is the 38 actually a P0038 code, still not related to ABS? Sadly I've no clue what the other stuff means, sorry pal!

Cracking stuff mate!!

I'm sure you've looked it up, but P1790 is a transmission code.

I thought 14.4v was a good charging voltage, but not too far away on what you have anyhow. And if there's no alternator light then I'd GUESS the car thinks it's acceptable. 

So unfortunately you still need to obtain a code read of the ABS fault to move forward or it's all guess work. It won't necessarily tell you what IS up, but may point in a direction. Many code readers will NOT read ABS as Maxcaddy said, which is possibly why the one you've used didn't see it.

Ooh that's blooming rubbish service pal. Sadly all I could suggest would be Mopar wholesale website in the USA.

Hi guys!

Cracking you managed to sort it out mate!

Yep, I'm with you on that, no, they certainly aren't Japanese reliability that's for sure, but when they're working they're a cracking family travelling lounge!

Hi there, there was strong suspicion they are the same, a 41TE 4 speed electronically controlled type. 

However, there surely must be some difference, as the petrol engine revs to 7000 rpm, and while I don't know the actual figure for the diesel, would estimate 4500???

So somewhere somehow there has to be a different gear ratio!

Oh they obviously think they're very special 

Yep sometimes it really is better to not disturb stuff, I absolutely totally agree on not tempting fate!!!

On that radio weird switch off - my Renault van radio can be put ON when there is no key in the ignition, but it will go off after a period, couldn't accurately tell you but my guess would be 15 minutes, when I'm doing oil changes, or whatever it might be, I occasionally do that. So, does your radio come on with the ignition then go off later, or do you have to switch it on manually?

Ours does the same cycle through the CD / DVD multi changer when the battery is reconnected, so my guess on that is it's a normal event.

Well, we have had it 8 years! But only done 50,000 miles, total up to around 136,000 now.

Yeah you've not done too badly there!!!

Oh yep, the interior mirror.... proper mirror glue, then fed up with that and super glued the sod. Then again when it fell off again.

I don't like to temp fate either, but as yet not had the battery drain...... 

Had a few incidents of weird and wonderful behaviours, not locking, strange rear lights not on, etc, cured by the infamous "turn it off" reset (take the IOD fuse out, or battery disconnect).

Driving down the road with the alarm going off? Well why on earth would that raise any concerns??? Spare parts car!! Cracking!

Hi there!

A strange one. I'm having a think!

When you say no ignition, do you mean there is no spark at ANY of the plugs? And how is the fuel pressure being measured?

Seemingly a heat related problem.

Yep, cracking analogy!!

Oh I forgot about the charcoal canister fault that makes it a total pain putting petrol in, doesn't vent properly so takes forever once you get over about 6 litres, put its no big deal as we don't use much petrol, we're on LPG !!

Indeed, the only close things we fancy are Japanese import Toyota Vellfire, but still too pricy for us just yet!

And as for what do we know?? Well, me and my work colleague reckon, compared to the ones who are supposedly in charge of such things - EVERYTHING !!

Well yep that's a pain in the posterior!

I've warned mine a few times too, behave or else.

The AC no longer works, and I am NOT replacing that front to rear pipe run, I did it about 6 years ago with a new Chrysler part, very reasonable at the time, all 4 (2 cool 2 heat) pipes for about £150.

The rear heater coil leaks so its capped off.

It uses (don't know how or where!!) coolant - just regularly top it up.

Folding mirrors cocked up years ago. 

Electric sliding door drivers side cable track has broken a wire, it also had a new one about 5 years ago. No - my electrical soldering isn't any good, I've tried it.

Handbrake is predictably garbage.

Built in DVD player has a mind of its own, but my girls are a bit older now have other devices to keep them entertained, thankfully.

3 water pumps, 2 power steering pumps, 2 ignition coils, radiator, rear calipers stick then get replaced (possibly another on the cards now!), a couple of door lock actuators, 2 complete front suspension struts (springs / dampers / top mounts), at least 2 sets of front suspension drop links, anti roll bar bushes, front wheel bearings, and I'm sure lots of others I'm blanking from memory!

All minor, but still slightly annoying, given how much effort and parts I put into it when we bought it 8 years ago to make it pretty mint.

Like you, though, we think it is still a great car when it's behaving for family !

Hi guys,

I was going to suggest more or less what Richard has, but by pulling the IOD fuse, in the past I have had that reset some very strange behaviour!

Hi there,

I've never had anything other than an alternator be the problem, but as you say our cars are getting a little old now and other cables or earths could be the cause.

I don't personally know how to, but can it be tested at the alternator terminal for output? 

westlancsautoelectrics.co.uk used to be pretty good, but I haven't needed them for a couple of years so can't qualify on recent pricing. Or is it worth considering a second hand unit, one with a warranty, say from a business seller on ebay?

Yeah the guy is clearly full of poop. Like a comment I got once on rear pads - "severely worn" - well with 4mm left I would rather disagree. 

The handbrake as most of us know is garbage. I reckon quite influenced by the fact the hand lever acts through a daft clockspring affair, so lots of the effort is absorbed and not put through the cables.

There have been many posts on it in the past, with a few tips to get it to come up good enough for an MOT pass.

Yes, it is a cable operated set of brake shoes, inside the rear drums, totally independent of the hydraulic main braking system.

I'm completely at a loss as to what the manual is referring to on this section, clearly does not apply to our models, but maybe the American versions had some lovely hybrid system as there's some contradictory statements in the rest of that text excerpt!! 

4 hours ago, RichardM said:

Vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes use a small duo-servo brake assembly mounted to the each rear disc brake calliper adapter as the parking brake.
The inside of the brake rotor (hat section of drum-inhat style brake rotor) is used as the parking brake drum.

Well it either uses a motor on the caliper, which would be an electric parking brake, or it uses the inside of the brake rotor, it can't have both!!!! Or can it??????

And as far as I knew, none up to the end of the 4th Gen had a caliper handbrake. Either electric or manual. Maybe the 5th Gen does / did?

Mine certainly haven't, none of the 3 I had. 

All had cable operated shoes inside the disc, and all were carp.....