bignev

Yes @@Carrotts that's correct, on the third time at ON leave it there, hopefully it will then give some info on the trip display for you @@Victorthevoyager

Now then @@fbson - by the way I don't have a diesel - are you aware that the wiper scuttle comes off, without a lot of effort, for access to the back of the engine - certainly makes the 3.3 V6 WAY easier to get at. Rear plugs, power steering and water pumps.

 

But am I right that @@andyb2000 said even with the wiper scuttle assembly removed it's still a bugger of a job, or was that yet some other component?

Cracking mate!

Good to hear West Lancs Auto are as great a service as they were for me!

Shame the other noises are now audible though hee hee

Hi an welcome!

 

Possibly - rockauto.com - but depends on what they have wether it's good value sometimes!

Excellent result!

 

I've had the more basic plug in tuning box on my Master van, 2.5, for years, and it definitely improves torque quite a bit. It's off at the minute as I had a fault last Friday, and blooming heck it feels flat without it!!!

 

Also used them on a Mazda 6 2.0 diesel sport - MASSIVE improvement on that, 2 different Ford Galaxy 1.8's - good improvement, and a Kia Sedona 2.9, quite a significant result on that.

 

So I can only think that a proper remap would yield even better results!

Hee hee! Yep I'm not at my best at that time either!

As you've done the tensioner and idler it stands a good chance it is the alternator, as said previously you could just do the pulley but you'll need the tool.

I got my alternator from West Lancashire Auto Electrics in Preston, I've just given them a call and they have a rebuilt one for £145 Inc vat. I forgot to ask but that may include delivery, and if it's the same deal as mine you send them your old one back in the box, with a pre paid carrier label.

Or a new one for £190 approx.

Their number is 01772 369119.

Hi Graeme,

the noise on mine got much WORSE in gear or AC on, I'll have a think and reply more tonight.

 

My water pump was actually leaking last year but made no noise!

That non return valve is there on mine as the fluid line rises up above the reservoir on its way across the bulkhead then back down.

Hi there, I've not replied as I don't really know,

However on my Renault Master there is a non return valve in the clutch line.

This would, I reckon, cause you to be unable to push that rod back in.

On the van it's able to be separated, which is a bad move under normal circumstances as it's a total sod to get fluid back through again - from my practical experience! ! Took a while to get a pedal again !

That's the only GUESS I can help with sorry.

Hi there,

Don't touch it with a barge pole unless you're prepared to spend heavy time and money on most likely swapping the solenoids, gearbox, and then hopefully it won't come up with other ECU and comms errors after the battery has been disconnected for a while.

 

I just wouldn't.

 

There's usually a reason why a seller hasn't fixed it so it will sell for the money it's worth.

Hiya scufgp, but how long ago was it you last checked the coolant?

 

Yes, I realise in an ideal world they would not use / lose any, but this a grand voyager we're talking about!!

 

Mine lost about 3.5 litres on the way to Blackpool last year, around 60 miles, but then didn't lose a drop on the way home. Water pump was the guilty party in my case.

I spotted it starting to drip under the car as we we're about to set off, but we were having a bit of a tough time with a terminal family illness then so I thought "I am taking my girls away for the weekend - it can die if it wants and come back on a GreenFlag flat back". But I topped it up at the B&B in the morning, went to the zoo, drove home and it was still full.......

Oh I agree with you that disturbing things on these can upset them, mine definitely is an ungrateful begger rather too often when I fix something......

 

From my very few visits to forum.com there does appear to be a fair number of guys with the 2.8 diesel, including our very good regulars andyb2000 and Qinteq, I've certainly seen several references regarding the thermostat mod, and charging button mod.

Hi maxcaddy!

I haven't come across this problem on this forum that I remember, but the fact the red alarm light comes on, I think could be that it thinks it's lost "ignition on" power..

 

I don't reckon there are any regulars on here that wouldn't help if they'd had the same problem. Unless they are on holiday and not here at the moment of course.

Have you had a search on the american ".com" rather than .co.uk forum?

 

And it's a Grand Voyager! There's a whole big list of stuff that's quite likely to cock up. Sadly. The forum has lots of them! Mostly probably not at all related to a radio head unit though.

 

But I suppose it's not impossible you've got a duff head unit.

 

By way of a blind guess, and nothing to lose by giving it a go, have you tried removing the "IOD" Ignition Off Draw fuse for 15 to 20 minutes?

It resets stuff like door locking, or unlocking, or I had rear lights out, or remote alarm not responding, and other stuff.

 

Or feed wiring to the back of the unit?

 

I've had 3 over the last 7 years, for 3 years in the middle I had 2 at once. Must be daft. But I have avoided the purely diesel problems by not having one.

Hi mate sadly not, mines a petrol, but start a post in the vehicle assistance area, not sure but possibly some of the guys don't check this area too often.

 

Assuming it's not the latest shape then 4th Generation Voyager is where you need.

Yes that's odd, I also thought the symbol was supposed to warn us of not charging!

Hi there!

And welcome!

 

Posting in the technical help area for better replies mate.

 

And also is it petrol or diesel! 

Hi there,

It could still possibly be a broken wire inside the insulation, sometimes difficult to feel.

Especially if the lock / unlock still work.

 

When testing with a multimeter you might just have the cable in a position that gives enough "touch" to make a continuity test work.

 

I'm not sure, but I think the wiring plugs would be different for left / right or you could try swapping that over too.

Hi robbie !

 

Can you do the key dance to get code numbers?

Ah ok, I presume it is a petrol then as ours had a similar but less severe leak from that steel section of pipe, running down from the bulkhead where they split to feed the cabin front heater then go under to head to the back heater coil.

 

Good luck with them locating the new piece, i got lucky and found it on ebay!!

Are they the set of 4 pipes that go to the rear heater and also the air con coil on a 3.3 petrol?

If so they are aluminium on  mine, and I can only guess that as soupstone suggests liquid metal with a wrap of some kind might get you home.

As an experiment do you have a partner / wife or other significant other / life sharer (you have to be so careful these days!) that could take it for a drive with you sat in the back row?

 

For you to try to gauge if there if is actually a problem with the car.

Or is it that the kids have reached an age that they get travel sick?

My Mrs says she was fine on their yearly drive down to Weymouth / Geurnsey from Stockport until she hit about 11, then suffered travel sickness really badly in the back of a car.

Hiya pal!

If I remember rightly, yours is a petrol like mine so should have the rear climate system, are you using to maintain fresh air when they're in the back row?

 

But having sat in the 3rd row of hours on occasion with the Mrs driving, it isn't as comfortable as the front or middle, I definitely felt bounced about over bumps as you're sat on the axle.

 

Then again ours are only 6, and quite happy in the back as a novelty on occasion.

Hi there!

 

Yep if it's the usual culprit it will be one of the wires in the caterpillar track at the bottom, had enough and broken. 

 

Gets to a certain point then stops, had it on the drivers side on one of mine, but as my electrical soldering isn't up to my pipe soldering abilities it failed again, twice!!

 

So I surrendered and got a new one from the States, shame I'm rubbish or it would have saved me over a hundred quid!!

 

Mine has the side crash sensor, without it there were several 2nd hand on ebay.

 

Does it still use the cinch motor to pull the door closed the last tiny bit?

Hi there! Welcome!

 

The best area is the Voyager technical help section, but if it's a 2001 onwards model there are 4 studs through the floor with nuts on the underside, and mine were jolly tight as you may expect!!

 

And obviously the wire connections under the seat! 

Damn fine result!