bignev

I think it was our fellow @@andyb2000 recently discovered that the diesel and petrol actually have the same box, but with a difference on the ring that is between it and the engine. Don't know its proper name sorry.

He did a major repair on his, and knowing him a little I reckon he did a video cos he's a cracker of a bloke who likes to help people.

 

Years 2001 to 2007 I think. 3.3 petrol and 2.8 diesel, but check it's a 4 speed 41TE.

 

HOWEVER - with an assistant do check the shaft on the gearbox at the end of the gear cable moves when it's moved in the car!!! Just popped in my head!

Aha, cheers QinteQ, 

The bad news for you Lee then is it would appear to point even more to a duff gearbox, if reverse can't be selected.

 

So then drop the bottom of the transmission pan off and see what crud and shrapnel and swarf may be in there. There is a little round magnet that attracts some of the cack. Mine had a little mound of stuff when I did it the first time last year.

 

I might hold off ordering new Mopar "ATF+4" fluid - very specific and important - and a filter till you see how bad it is. 

Hmmm, bit of guess work, but yes I agree, if the thermostat is sticking open - in the default "failed" position - then the heater will be poor, and the gas will take a lot longer to changeover.

It's usually around 35 to 40 degrees, but of course if the LPG ecu has gone side ways a bit it could be looking for a higher temperature, my first one took ages to get onto gas when the first winter came, soon had it reset and it was fine.

 

So if the coolant temp is too cool - well as far as the LPG system is concerned, the gas could have been switching back and forth.

 

As I say a bit of guesswork!

 

The good news is the location of the thermostat on ours hey! At the end of the hose right hand side (passenger UK) of the engine under / forward of the ignition coil.

Hiya pal, Welcome!

 

You've got a 4th Generation GV, I'd suggest put the question over there, & do a search in that section, I think this has been mentioned in the last year or so

Hi think I need back up from @@QinteQ but I thought 2nd and reverse were selected essentially manually with the lever, so much so that I am fairy sure my 02 3.3 would select them with the TCM disconnected

If you can't quite reach it - long nose angle tip pliers - gently does it with the glass bulb, but if you break it, it will probably shake out.

Oh dear that doesn't sound good at all.

 

Try the "key dance, switch to ON but not start, back to off - 3rd time in the ON position stop, and observe to odometer, have a pen & paper, and maybe it might give us a clue. Should list any codes, usually in order I think, and end with "done".

 

But it sounds mechanical in the gearbox to me - if you can't push it in neutral when it's running, that's definitely not my usual experience! And no reverse. As well as limited revs! Certainly hope something pops up on the display. Or it could be one or more of the solenoids, and the PCM is doing something as it recognises an error - but why there's no warning light is rather odd, hey @@QinteQ & @@andyb2000!?

hi again!

On our original petrol 3.3 the TCM failed to talk to the PCM, and it had 2nd gear, reverse, park and neutral.

I don't know on yours, have you got the rest of that picture? Only half the box on there.

 

I'm on petrol so didn't spot if I've got a "Transmission" shut down, but got an EATX one?? Not got time to check right now sorry.

 

Can you see "TCM" anywhere? But it could be a combined unit on yours with the Power Control Module relay..... so the one you mention may be it - swap another one that you know works out of another component.

OOH yep that's rather obviously not good, yeah I'd agree if it's under warranty get it back to them and they can have the mither!!

 

Was the original problem overheating - guessing but just re-read the start of the post?

 

Yes it sounds like it's certainly clogged somewhere, a couple of the other guys, @@andyb2000 and @@QinteQ would know far more on the diesels!

Hi Pal, take a read of the previous thread - " Does a Grand Voyager 2005 have an in tank lift pump", hopefully should help a bit.

 

But there will be more questions soon - is it diesel or petrol to start with?

Hiya pal not seen you for a while!

 

Double check the coolant level - you probably already have! The gauge can go to normal (halfway as you say) or high if it's low on water, then the temp sensor for the gas doesn't get hot enough to do the changeover!

 

We have a whole lot of coolant on the 3.3 - about 12 litres - so you can lose quite a lot and still sort of ok - May Bank Holiday I lost 3.5 litres on the way to Blackpool but it was still normal temp! Water pump fault / leak!!

Hi pal, where does the temperature gauge get to? If it's not very nearly halfway then the stat is not doing it's job. Whether it's had a new one or not.

And I presume you mean driving, not just idling on the drive.

 

The good news is your diesel versions are self air bleeding I believe, I know my petrol is.

 

DO NOT back flush on these, alloy engines and other reasons, QinteQ has better info. Read a very recent topic on "New Radiator Needed" he has detailed the flush procedure - if indeed you need it. But check your temp gauge first.

No worries, and excellent that you have a good guy you can tryust!!

 

On mine to turn the screen on you press the button with the picture of the headphones on, top left.

Hi and welcome!

 

The lock actuator isn't a particularly difficult job, and the item certainly isn't usually expensive from a certain auction / "buy it now" site.

But of course the "difficulty" level depends on your mechanical abilities!

If you don't mind waiting, this one under £12 from China:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Left-Right-Power-Sliding-Door-Lock-Actuator-For-Chrysler-Town-Country-Dodge/401478999912?epid=7011748448&hash=item5d7a035f68:g:1VUAAOSwUH5aYOC-

 

Have you got the remote control for the DVD? The screen won't come on for most models without it.

 

For a spare key your best option is a mobile auto locksmith, who can cut and code one easily. If you get a second hand remote he should be able to code that in too for you. It can be done - I've had it done for mine.

Oh bummer pal that's not fair at all. After the time and effort you've given it too. Really sorry to hear it.

 

And holy pooe yep those bearings are a little bit more than normal wear.

 

I must have done really well with mine, the 2002 3.3 I had, I put it on Gumtree and a dismantler, not scrapper, contacted me and gave me £250. Are there any remotely near you?

Yep that's a problem then pal.

 

Either, or both, of the means of escape for the water, to get as much of any sediment out of the system.

 

I suppose you could get a bucket and keep refilling with a jug but not nearly as quickly effective.

Hiya pal, 

Just use the tap water for the flushing as it's coming out again.

 

Follow our fellow member QinteQ's list in #7, not "fill run drain fill" steps it'll keep contaminating whatever goes in for absolutely ages.

 

Start off I suppose if you're worried with the bottom hose loose, with water coming out, and put a garden hose in the expansion bottle and keep it flowing through. If it gets fairly clear then run the engine briefly to circulate, then repeat.

 

Then try to follow QinteQ's list. It will work loads better.

Excellent!

HI there and welcome!

 

I can answer the first one - as I don't lock ours behind doors in the car port - nope it won't go off, opening doors or anything.

Yep - you will need a good auto locksmith who will sort that in no time - with no damage to the car.

 

And you will then have a spare key if you get him to do it while he's getting you in!!!!

I'd suggest your local tyre depots for advice on it - doesn't seem anyone has experience of this sadly.

Oil filler cap on my 3.3 petrol says 5w20!!!!!!!  I do have the handbook and it can be almost anything in this country with our temperatures.

 

So I use 5w30 because I can buy that anywhere, I've used my local autofactors standard stock fully synthetic stuff, Granville oils last 2 times at around 3000 to 4000 miles, as it has been doing way too many - way too short journeys with my Mrs, to her mums and hospital appointments.

 

It had also been using a bit more too recently, which I am GUESSING is down to the clearances being larger in the engine when it's cold.

I assume you're talking about a diesel, I've not got one on a Chrysler, but got one on my 2.5 Renault Master, been on for 12 years, Had one on a Mazda 6 2.0 sport - massive difference, Ford Galaxy 1.8 - slight improvement, Kia Sedona 2.9 - good improvement.

 

I all except the van I barely had any difference in the fuel consumption, but lots more torque, the van is slightly better with it on.

Ah now am I right that this version was built in Europe, like mine, so that would be why they've listed the Euro standard after their preferred API one?!

Got to comply for the world's markets hey!!

 

Either way, I agree, for these, fully synthetic, change it often enough, not on mileage as QinteQ says, keep it sweet! Oil is less mither, & cheaper, than repairs, probably anyway!

 

Condensation forms in engine and exhaust on cold start up that is only evaporated off if it gets hot enough. That's then water in the oil if not - tiny amount each time though.