bignev

Hi there,

 

Just to point something out - you say yours is a 2006, but the AA report says it's a 5 speed auto box, I thought they came in with the newer squarer shape?

So so a 5th generation not 4th ?

Hi there, could possibly be the coil, I've had a couple die on me.

 

There is a thread on here probably earlier this year, but are you able to test stuff? You will need a spare spark plug, pull one HT lead off at a time and push in the spare plug, rest it on the metal cross member, start the engine, and see how the spark looks.

 

Work your way through all  the plugs, if one is particularly less bright than the others it's probably the coil, but try swapping the leads over on a couple of connections on the coil to check it's not them.

 

The coil can be had off ebay, or rockauto.com in the USA, I actually (as daft as it sounds) bought 2 from them for the price of 1 in the UK, shipped over in 5 days.

 

Or it could be a HT lead, but from what you describe it is just like mine when it chucked its hand in.

 

Oh I should have started with the "key dance" suggestion - key in, at "off" position, and in fairly quick order, go to ignition on (but NOT cranking position) then back to "off" then igntion - the third time you get to the ignition position stop, and the trip meter should show us some info, P codes, if you get P0301 to P0306 then that's a misfire detected. P0300 is multiple misfires, the second time the coil went on mine it had killed 2 circuits.

Have you checked your coolant level?

Cracking!

One happy little fella I would think!!

Hiya!

My girls are 7 and the headphones have a good range of adjustment, but they are a stock item so you could try before you buy of course!!

 

I am quite sure it doesn't run through the amp, as it's an infra red signal and volume is altered on the headset. And of course the radio or cd then plays to the speakers if you wish.

 

Worst case scenario - return them for a refund!

Hi There @@dmal4ev !

 

From my personal experience my rear wiper was the motor, second hand unit and sorted.

 

The washer was the hose on the boot (stow n go version) under the carpet, right hand side, a coupling had come loose, I have a fellow member to thank for the pointer on that one.

I recently (August) got some infra red head phones from Halfords at £15, as I wanted them at short ish notice - due to a late thought about it on my part!

 

They have been great so far!

 

I did look on ebay, and there were some cheaper, but didn't want to risk them not arriving before we set off for Cormwall!

Hi there!

I recently bought the infra red head phones from Halfords, as I needed (well wanted) them at short notice for a drive from Manchester to Cornwall. They were retailed at £15 but I got discount with my Subaru owners club card (Outback 3.0 2005).

 

They worked instantly, and the AAA batteries lasted all week on holiday, and are still good.

 

The 2.8 has a cam belt - others with a diesel can comment further!

 

Do you not have a remote at all to turn the DVD on? Mine doesn't work without the remote to turn the screen on!!!

Hi guys, obviously I don't own a Delta, but I read most of the forum cos I'm sad!

 

Just a couple of questions to help it along - have you had it any amount of time - and therefore has it always done this or is it a new development?

 

When you get it into 3rd gear and higher does it then have good power - this would eliminate turbo and lots of other stuff, but point possibly towards clever electronics on a sort of traction control limiting torque and power to avoid wheel spin.

Do you have a digital multimeter to check the voltage of the battery just before you try to start it?

 

This will confirm the above suggestions if it's less than 12.7 to 12.8 volts which is a fully charged unit (I think - please correct me if I'm out on that number)

 

If I'm right less than 12.3 is a fairly low battery. And the 2.8 diesel doesn't appear to like that, especially when it gets cooler.

Hi there, 

Small point but the post is in the wrong section, yours is a 4th generation, 56 plate is 2006 / 2007.

 

I would reckon the battery, I read you said it's been tested but it sounds like a battery. Try it with a jump start from another vehicle with its engine running.

 

What voltage did you get on the test? 13 volts or over is ok.

 

Also is it petrol or diesel?

Nice one mate!

 

They must have revised some of the layout on mine as it wasn't TOO bad with the extra access! Certainly didn't have to faff the the alternator.

Yep a mobile AUTO locksmith should be able to do you a spare key no problem and code it in. Or not necessarily mobile, we have a company near us who can cut one and code it in. They did me a key for one of ours but said they couldn't do the remote unit - dealer only.

 

However on our current car we had a spare key done by a recommended mobile guy, and we also had a spare second hand remote coded in - which apparently couldn't be done except by a Chrysler dealer.......... well it's still working so I guess they were wrong.

My Renault Master van works in the same way, primer (rubber bulb in my case) just before the filter, with a non return valve built in. And no pump in the tank.

 

When it went tits up a couple of months ago I recalled all I had read on here, and with the aid of a glamorous assistant, (he isn't really!) turning the engine over with me pumping the bulb it started, and stayed running while it was pulling fuel through. After turning it off and leaving for a few minutes it wouldn't start again. New primer bulb and it's been good since.

Treble check on that fault diagnosis - I don't recall of ever reading of a high pressure pump failure on here, I could of course be wrong.

Hi there!

I'm sure you are probably aware the diesel / lpg never really took off due to the difficulties of making a compression ignition engine work on a fuel that need a spark to burn, so would always run a mix, the burning diesel ignites the lpg.

 

Also I don't think there is an official classification for that as dual fuel, to get the massive £10 reduction on road tax.

 

But the diesel engine can be remapped, or use a "plug and play module" for around £70 for good and immediate results. I have used them on my Renault Master 2.5 van, a Mazda6 2.0 sport - huge increase it was a totally different car, 2 Ford 1.8 Galaxys, and a Kia Sedona 2.9.

My suggestion would be a new radiator from ebay, £60 to £75 at a very quick look just now. 

 

It's not a horrendous job to swap the rad out.

 

If using the cabin heater brings the temperature down then I reckon the evidence says the water pump is doing its job.

Hi there, check if your wiper scuttle comes off, it does on the 2001 to 2007, much easier to get at those rear plugs, doesn't take too long to remove so it absolutely is an advantage.

Yep - well I have if yours has the rear climate, and you're using the air con.

 

It's probably condensate from the cooling coils.

Marvellous, I must have blanked that part from my mind as I don't recall having to make any more access, do remember dropping a screw inside the door though ? and forgetting to put the polystyrene block back in before I put the door card on..... I left it out for a couple of years till the actuator went noisy and I changed it again.

Hi there, I had the tie rod end replaced on mine. I didn't have the time or I would have had a go myself, I did get under it to have a look and it would need a jolly big spanner!

AHA now that I can help you with!

 

Take a look on ebay for "Voyager lock actuator" and you will find plenty. Depends how quick you want it sorting but under £12 from China in 3 to 4 weeks or under £20 from the UK under a week.

 

It isn't that bad a job, have a search on this forum and you will find it described by a few of us!

 

To definitely confirm that's the culprit you can take the actuator motor from the other door and plug it on, they are the same unit with a different operating arm.

Cheers, Nev

Hiya Tony and welcome!

 

Reading lots of posts on the problem it does seem that basically yes the radiator change is the way to go.

And don't forget to flush it as described in those posts, forward not back flush, and then use the distilled water with the correct coolant, HOAT I think - I know someone will check and correct if I'm wrong.

 

I have changed mine - as it was knackered and leaking - on our 3.3 petrol and it wasn't a difficult job at all.

 

Try ebay for a rad, that's where mine came from, about £60 if I remember correctly.

 

For technical help it's better to post in the vehicle assistance sections by the way!

 

Cheers, Nev

Can't think of any other obvious causes, I'll take a look under tge bonnet of ours later

Hi there!

Are the drainage tubes from the wiper scuttle clear of debris?

 

And is the seal on the front of the scuttle that compresses against the bonnet in place?