bignev

My Renault Master van works in the same way, primer (rubber bulb in my case) just before the filter, with a non return valve built in. And no pump in the tank.

 

When it went tits up a couple of months ago I recalled all I had read on here, and with the aid of a glamorous assistant, (he isn't really!) turning the engine over with me pumping the bulb it started, and stayed running while it was pulling fuel through. After turning it off and leaving for a few minutes it wouldn't start again. New primer bulb and it's been good since.

Treble check on that fault diagnosis - I don't recall of ever reading of a high pressure pump failure on here, I could of course be wrong.

Hi there!

I'm sure you are probably aware the diesel / lpg never really took off due to the difficulties of making a compression ignition engine work on a fuel that need a spark to burn, so would always run a mix, the burning diesel ignites the lpg.

 

Also I don't think there is an official classification for that as dual fuel, to get the massive £10 reduction on road tax.

 

But the diesel engine can be remapped, or use a "plug and play module" for around £70 for good and immediate results. I have used them on my Renault Master 2.5 van, a Mazda6 2.0 sport - huge increase it was a totally different car, 2 Ford 1.8 Galaxys, and a Kia Sedona 2.9.

My suggestion would be a new radiator from ebay, £60 to £75 at a very quick look just now. 

 

It's not a horrendous job to swap the rad out.

 

If using the cabin heater brings the temperature down then I reckon the evidence says the water pump is doing its job.

Hi there, check if your wiper scuttle comes off, it does on the 2001 to 2007, much easier to get at those rear plugs, doesn't take too long to remove so it absolutely is an advantage.

Yep - well I have if yours has the rear climate, and you're using the air con.

 

It's probably condensate from the cooling coils.

Marvellous, I must have blanked that part from my mind as I don't recall having to make any more access, do remember dropping a screw inside the door though ? and forgetting to put the polystyrene block back in before I put the door card on..... I left it out for a couple of years till the actuator went noisy and I changed it again.

Hi there, I had the tie rod end replaced on mine. I didn't have the time or I would have had a go myself, I did get under it to have a look and it would need a jolly big spanner!

AHA now that I can help you with!

 

Take a look on ebay for "Voyager lock actuator" and you will find plenty. Depends how quick you want it sorting but under £12 from China in 3 to 4 weeks or under £20 from the UK under a week.

 

It isn't that bad a job, have a search on this forum and you will find it described by a few of us!

 

To definitely confirm that's the culprit you can take the actuator motor from the other door and plug it on, they are the same unit with a different operating arm.

Cheers, Nev

Hiya Tony and welcome!

 

Reading lots of posts on the problem it does seem that basically yes the radiator change is the way to go.

And don't forget to flush it as described in those posts, forward not back flush, and then use the distilled water with the correct coolant, HOAT I think - I know someone will check and correct if I'm wrong.

 

I have changed mine - as it was knackered and leaking - on our 3.3 petrol and it wasn't a difficult job at all.

 

Try ebay for a rad, that's where mine came from, about £60 if I remember correctly.

 

For technical help it's better to post in the vehicle assistance sections by the way!

 

Cheers, Nev

Can't think of any other obvious causes, I'll take a look under tge bonnet of ours later

Hi there!

Are the drainage tubes from the wiper scuttle clear of debris?

 

And is the seal on the front of the scuttle that compresses against the bonnet in place?

Hiya there! Thick rounded end to the front, thin to the back, like a plane wing!

AHA, well that's even better then pal - no labour charge, just tea and biscuits to keep you happy while you do it - result!!

 

If you have a local auto factors could be worth asking them for a price too, our local one is usually only a little bit over online price, but they're really good guys (and girls actually) and if there's any problem will sort it out PDQ for us.

And personally I would much rather spend it locally if I can. Not always practical if the cost is a big difference.

 

If I had proof read my original reply above I would have corrected it to "warped" discs

I would think that basically the front discs are wared, and you will need new discs & pads.

They are available from the tinterweb (quick ebay search) from £60 full set.

 

Obviously plus a fitting cost. From the tone of the question I guess it doesn't sound like you are going to do this yourself?

For anyone fairly good with cars it's not too difficult a job on these.

Yes @@Carrotts that's correct, on the third time at ON leave it there, hopefully it will then give some info on the trip display for you @@Victorthevoyager

Now then @@fbson - by the way I don't have a diesel - are you aware that the wiper scuttle comes off, without a lot of effort, for access to the back of the engine - certainly makes the 3.3 V6 WAY easier to get at. Rear plugs, power steering and water pumps.

 

But am I right that @@andyb2000 said even with the wiper scuttle assembly removed it's still a bugger of a job, or was that yet some other component?

Cracking mate!

Good to hear West Lancs Auto are as great a service as they were for me!

Shame the other noises are now audible though hee hee

Hi an welcome!

 

Possibly - rockauto.com - but depends on what they have wether it's good value sometimes!

Excellent result!

 

I've had the more basic plug in tuning box on my Master van, 2.5, for years, and it definitely improves torque quite a bit. It's off at the minute as I had a fault last Friday, and blooming heck it feels flat without it!!!

 

Also used them on a Mazda 6 2.0 diesel sport - MASSIVE improvement on that, 2 different Ford Galaxy 1.8's - good improvement, and a Kia Sedona 2.9, quite a significant result on that.

 

So I can only think that a proper remap would yield even better results!

Hee hee! Yep I'm not at my best at that time either!

As you've done the tensioner and idler it stands a good chance it is the alternator, as said previously you could just do the pulley but you'll need the tool.

I got my alternator from West Lancashire Auto Electrics in Preston, I've just given them a call and they have a rebuilt one for £145 Inc vat. I forgot to ask but that may include delivery, and if it's the same deal as mine you send them your old one back in the box, with a pre paid carrier label.

Or a new one for £190 approx.

Their number is 01772 369119.

Hi Graeme,

the noise on mine got much WORSE in gear or AC on, I'll have a think and reply more tonight.

 

My water pump was actually leaking last year but made no noise!

That non return valve is there on mine as the fluid line rises up above the reservoir on its way across the bulkhead then back down.

Hi there, I've not replied as I don't really know,

However on my Renault Master there is a non return valve in the clutch line.

This would, I reckon, cause you to be unable to push that rod back in.

On the van it's able to be separated, which is a bad move under normal circumstances as it's a total sod to get fluid back through again - from my practical experience! ! Took a while to get a pedal again !

That's the only GUESS I can help with sorry.

Hi there,

Don't touch it with a barge pole unless you're prepared to spend heavy time and money on most likely swapping the solenoids, gearbox, and then hopefully it won't come up with other ECU and comms errors after the battery has been disconnected for a while.

 

I just wouldn't.

 

There's usually a reason why a seller hasn't fixed it so it will sell for the money it's worth.