Semmysonic

Thanks for the bad news Nev , I'm in the same situation, been bodging for 7 years , now not much but rust left, had a look underneath just before the MOT and had to cut off all the U clamps cus they were just rattling about and not needed cus it's so badly rusted up.
I've got an idea I might buy the standard system and cut it up to repair the one I have, mine doesn't look too bad after the middle silencer.
I've  had similar issues with the water pump and also stuck radweld in just before Xmas , it's not needed any water since 

You might be on to something there.
Unfortunately my missus won't even entertain driving it (too big she says)
 
Going to swap the kids about, swap the eldest (11) to the middle row, her sister who is 4 is going to try the back row. Other daughter is 7 and she sits in the back row without a problem.

From you pictures the 2 silver one are grand and the blue one is not.
 
They have blacked out rear windows to try to keep temperature down in the back as there are no proper opening windows just the vent windows.
 
They do have their issues, a lot of electrical problems, if you do look at one play with every nob and switch make sure it functions as it should.
 
Issues with suspension and brakes are common due to weight of the car.
My parking brake has to be stripped and rebuilt before every mot.
Front nearside tyre wear is high again due to weight.
They don't have front leaf springs.
Only leaf springs in the rear.
They are a big heavy car so it takes it's toll on many of the running parts, not a problem if maintained regularly.

Thanks for all your help Nev, feel a bit stupid now, turns out it was trapped wind added a bit more water it had a big 'burp' and hey presto the heaters started warming up.

I've never had mine out but at a guess I would say no due to the restrictions on the space under there.

There was some gunk around the old stat, not sure what they used to seal it previously. Seen some very odd repairs on it in the past on other things so who knows.
Anyway going to keep a close eye in it for a while. Might give it a flush out before winter sets in to make sure there's nothing else in the coolant.

Doing a long run (mostly on petrol) almost brought me to tears, scary how fast the fuel gauge moves!

I'd guess looking towards the US for ideas would be the best idea, maybe some sort of airbag system. Would be good as you could then drop it right down for getting in and out, then raise it for comfortable driving

Good news
Yes it's a pressure gauge not a fuel level gauge so it never really gives you an accurate level on how much you have left. Mine can go from full to empty in a matter of a few miles, then other times it will show as almost empty and last quite a while. You'll learn to reset the trip after every fill up, that will give you a better idea on when you'll need to fillup.

Yep mine had the same problem, got actuator same as in nevs link, cheap from China looks exactly the same as genuine. Only problem I had was the small screw access hole was missing in the door frame so I had to drill a new hole. Did the job 2 years ago and still worked

I'd guess looking towards the US for ideas would be the best idea, maybe some sort of airbag system. Would be good as you could then drop it right down for getting in and out, then raise it for comfortable driving

No worries, glad I could help

Same here on my 3.3 lpg. Not the most intelligent autobox in the world

As you say just needs a little planning and a decent app to find cheapest stations.
I certainly wouldn't want to run mine on petrol only!

I think it's just for the auto dim mirror to stop headlight glare

Just a silly one is the ignition key in the correct position when you remove it?
 
I Only ask because the barrels can get sloppy which makes it possible to remove the key whilst on acc position and not off position.
 
Acc is all the way around anticlockwise . Off is one click back clockwise.

Yes it's a fairly straightforward job.
 
Can't quite remember if there is a couple of screws through the door card
Then you just need to pry the door card off, it's held in place with those little plastic clips.
 
The door must be open but not slid back as the actuator is to the rear of the door.
 
It's hidden behind the steel frame of the door. Actuator is only held in place with 1 small screw, there should be a small access hole to get a magnetic Philips screwdriver through (the hole was missing on mine so I had to drill a hole)

I've not known it on any other car, had to ask about it on here when I first noticed it

I had this problem too but it was caused by a bad sensor. Short term you can disconnect one of the sensors, this will deactivate the abs.imo No abs is far safer than abs kicking in when you don't need it!

Can we have a tab for lpg converted grand voyagers. To discuss problems, tips etc

It's connected through the 3 av sockets on the front of the dvd player, player comes with all connections other than the power cable. There is probably other players that will do the job, chose this one because it was cheap :-)
 
can't believe it's taken me almost 12 months to figure out when the answer was so simple and straightforward

Is it the short round bar your after?
 
It's 750 mm from hole center to hole center.

Hi, welcome, I have a standard removable tow bar, it doesn't affect the parking sensors.
However if you have an issue I believe there is a setting on the menu in the overhead computer to switch off the parking sensors, just scroll through the menu

Just had a quote for mine £350 all in, so I'll be getting that sorted soon ☺

Spare a thought for us petrol gv owners, mine gets about 15 mpg :-D