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ryden

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ryden last won the day on August 22 2017

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About ryden

  • Birthday 10/21/1990

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  1. Thanks again for the info Mike, but unfortunately I'm after a Workshop Manual for my model. Many Thanks
  2. Hi Thanks for the links etc. Unfortunately It doesn't have the information I needed. My car is a 2006 Stow and Go 2.8L and a lot has changed due to the slightly different engine and the fact that that seats ( being stored in the floor) have moved around a lot of components. Many Thanks
  3. Hi All, Have the need for a GV 2006 2.8L Workshop Manual. I noticed the link to oskin.ru no longer has any documents within it - can anyone help me out or point me in the right direction? Many Thanks!
  4. Possible issues for your code below : P1651-MIL/DIAG LAMP VIA J1850 BUS IN FRAME RESPONSE ERROR P1651-MIL/DIAG LAMP VIA J1850 BUS STATUS ERROR Seems there's a few possible causes - ECM, Instrument Cluster, wiring, communication issue.
  5. The injectors aren't bespoke/programmed to each cars ecu, if that's what you're implying?
  6. Could you provide the Fault codes currently present on your dash? I've attached an image - On the left is the relay I assume you're referring to ( "front chassis crossbeam") - Then on the right is the location for the transmission control relays position ( which i presume you're possibly referring to as the "PCM relay" ?)
  7. Hi Dr, I presume you've tried the common places - Chrysler ( garages) , auto factors and ebay/ amazon? Also I've inserted a table of all interior bulbs, in case it's needed.
  8. All the info you'll need below: - http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1441-how-much-antifreeze-do-i-need/ https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/hoat-coolant-22894/
  9. That's correct. I managed to purchase a complete turbo and manifold for a price you wouldn't believe ( I still don't to this day!) and use the actuator off of it. I've attached the link to my post regarding the issues I had, but if you want the short story - car ran and started fine, if you tried heavy acceleration the warning light would come on until you slowed back down. After fault finding and discussing with my friend ( a mechanic) turned out to be seized waste gate and actuator starting to fail. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1067-hard-acceleration-causing-eml-to-come-on/
  10. Nope and I managed to do all the work in place ( was an absolute bastard, wont lie) Removed the waste gate actuator, then freed off the waste gate and refitted the replacement actuator - success.
  11. No problem, faults like these can either be obvious or quite time consuming to identify. Possibly. I had the P2035 fault code myself. My issues turned out to be a seized waste gate and my waste gate actuator failing ( but my car ran/started fine, unless you tried to floor it) that component is the EGR solenoid. But I couldn't say if that hissing noise was okay - but I've never heard a noise like the one you have ( not saying whether that's right or wrong)
  12. I presume you have just the one fob simon? Also, another silly one - try the fob and if it doesn't work, give it a little tap then see if it works. ( sometimes the batteries don't sit very well in the holder) Below is an extract from Chrysler manual ( sorry for misinforming anyone) "The recommended battery is Duracell DL 2016 or equivalent, TWO cells are required. Battery life is about three years minimum."
  13. After reading through the post thoroughly and assuming you have no other issues with the car ( no lag, limp mode, hunting, excess smoke or rough running etc.) Plus you cant find any leaks, then its either air getting in or possible blockages ( the rubber hoses with the crimped metal ends aren't the best and injectors can get blocked easily. Also the connector you found unplugged is a bit suspicious) Here's the list Chrysler provide, for hard start checking.
  14. Quick quesiton frog - has your other issues gotten any better ( does it idle fine now?)
  15. Chrysler stipulate using only one battery instead of two ( ill dig it up from the manual when i get home) but I couldn't really comment on why. Not to long back I had a few issues regarding the fob locking/ unlocking and it working at different distances. Turned out to be the battery - well that's all i changed and it fixed my problems. Haha, yeah I've heard about that trick. Apparently there is method to the madness, regarding that trick.
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