bignev

Ok I have remap the engine ECU
And I recommend this to all!
Much more torque and bhp, engine does not go on high revs to get in top speed, and plus gearbox more relax..
Best spent £250 on the car!

Not any info on the suspension apart from I know the springs are humongous and tend not to fit in a spring compressor so advise take it to a garage and pay them
As for the rear window I had problem with like a gritty build up that just seemed to get worse the more I cleaned and polished it
Until I experimented with McGuires clay bar detailing kit
About £20 from Halfords
Squirt on the juice rub over with clay buff off excess juice polish after
Done the whole car and all paint work came up like crystal glass finish
Worth every penny

I’ve recently replaced the front strut. Firstly I got one from eBay for £10 and then £15 postage. Ideal I thought. Took the old assembly out and compressed the spring but the nut tonkerpnthe top hat on was seized. As it had been rattling around for months before I decided to do anything about it I looked at carparts4less and even with my mate who works for them the cheapest for a strut and a bearing was £130. Looked online for parts and found rockauto in the US. New strut, spring and bearing all fully assembled was £100. If I had payed the import duty when I payed for the assembly then I would have saved my self £12. Took 2 weeks as I wasn’t in a rush so paid for economy delivery. Took 25 minutes to fit. Didn’t remove the wipers or scuttle panel like I did the first time around. As I knew where all the bolts were. Even with delivery and import charges most of the stuff on there works out cheaper than here. A new alternator is £160 all in and the cheapest I can find here is close on £250.

OK thank you.
 
The alternator looks like the original as I haven't changed it under my ownership of 8 years and 55k miles, so the bearings might feel a little sorry for themselves.
 
Previously in the topic you mentioned West Lancs Auto and in my post midnight messaging session I filled in their form and they responded at 7:02am this morning (wow), at which point after your message I confirmed I had put in the right information   this was their quote;
 
Option 1 £198.00 Option 2 £144.00 Option 1New Premium Brand Alternator sourced from one of the industry’s leading aftermarket suppliers, which would be compatible with ALL the leading brands in the aftermarket including Lucas, Bosch and Remy (which are in the main rebuilt exchange units).
Option 2Original equipment remanufactured Alternator sourced from one of the industry’s leading aftermarket suppliers, which would be compatible with new.
Both options include VAT and are covered by the same 18 Month Warranty* and in most cases with free delivery to the UK main land.
 
RockAuto's prices range from £81 to £276 + Carriage + VAT for a new one, so bit of a no brainer really.
 
So alternator it is, I'll let you know how I get on.
 
Many thanks
 
Graeme

FWIW, I just swapped to a mk5 from a mk4 GV. I drove it back to Yorkshire from Brighton with no problem, but when I cane to it in the morning, the battery was dead. I swapped it out for the battery from my mk4, which is still sitting on the drive, but that was almost dead, as she's been sat a good while. I tried juno staying the mk5, but it just wouldn't catch.
I was getting pushed due time so I resorted to the old trick of opening up the air filter cover, giving it a quick squirt of WD40, cos the cover and trying it again.
Started first time.
I don't like doing this, as I feel it can't do the paper filter any good, but I've been doing this for 25 years and it's always worked, lol.

Hi there,
Don't touch it with a barge pole unless you're prepared to spend heavy time and money on most likely swapping the solenoids, gearbox, and then hopefully it won't come up with other ECU and comms errors after the battery has been disconnected for a while.
 
I just wouldn't.
 
There's usually a reason why a seller hasn't fixed it so it will sell for the money it's worth.

Have now purchaced a 2007 grand voyager lx signature that seems ok. AC not functioning (just needs a re-gas, yeh right!) Need to go through everything as you do with a new to you vehicle but loving it so far.....

Hiya scufgp, but how long ago was it you last checked the coolant?
 
Yes, I realise in an ideal world they would not use / lose any, but this a grand voyager we're talking about!!
 
Mine lost about 3.5 litres on the way to Blackpool last year, around 60 miles, but then didn't lose a drop on the way home. Water pump was the guilty party in my case.
I spotted it starting to drip under the car as we we're about to set off, but we were having a bit of a tough time with a terminal family illness then so I thought "I am taking my girls away for the weekend - it can die if it wants and come back on a GreenFlag flat back". But I topped it up at the B&B in the morning, went to the zoo, drove home and it was still full.......

Had trouble with both the above.
Did all the usual [take out clean egr, plus flush rad] neither worked. Decided to spend and buy all.
Arranged with my local garage to have it worked on there, and for me to watch.
They exchanged the egr, that code disappeared, but code for the egr solenoid appeared, change that...Both codes came back.
Flushed rad, filthy of course. Took up a 20% hill and over heated immediately. Stripped that out put new rad in [old was so crudded up it was solid, so much so developed a small leak] Thermostat replacement. next
A pig..a real pig. Luckily I had found this thermo has a separate temp sensor attached] used vin to get this as reg gave a different part number..remember this  [most dont, appears late 2007 on for emissions.. for one year it seems] The thermostat with sensor does not stay open as default when busted, it was 2/3rds shut. .So, with new rad it still overheated. New thermo along with the rad and its fine. But heres the thing, without having to check on the egr codes [which prior to thermo replacement were still there] disappeared. 
I called a friend in the USA who tells that the sensore'd thermo makes that part of emissions linked to egr. And without properly functioning thermo/ egr wont function either
This is just a heads up. Having gone around in circles with both problems.forever.
Oh btw. Stuck between the engine and firewall theres a connection thats linked to egr, mechanic traced it back and told me at the time, you would never know its there unless you were in the belly of the beast..behind the engine.  
Moral of the tale. You can cure one or tuther but unless both are dealt with neither function. Caveat tho. This is for the thermo with sensor, without the sensor I have no idea.
ps...Was also told, if thermo without the sensor is used [wrongly] the comp etc has to be re-mapped   

Hi the car is id ot wa and running I made the fatal error of using Dexron III in the auto box!!!!!!!    Gear change was terrible. Sucked out the Dexron and filled with Mopar ATF+4 it is the only fluid that works. Finaly the car is working.
.Having had a 2.4 I had to work out where to go on the stow and go.

I have found and solved the problem. I have a CD with all the parts and wiring so I printed out the relevant pages and studied and thought. I took the door lock out that contains all the switches, door lock and latch unlatch motor. I Inspected the wiring, pulling back the sleeving and found one damaged and one cut wire. Repairing them both solved the issue but how they were cut is a mystery, when I bought the car it wasnt working but that door was dented. However, I still can't make out how the wire was cut. It took me quite a while to put back the track at the bottom of the door.
 
Just so you know what the problem was;
Press any undo button the door will unlatch, then the module ticks and nothing else happens. Manually slide the door back, press buttons, nothing.

Thanks for that
Told guy at my usual mot spot [great place] He had seen it has I had the vehicle it lifted in, [speed bump had the shock rip thru the upper downwards..literally, pop thru the coil and and wedge into the fitting/surround. Made taking it out awkward as the spring isnt fixed. [watched him..it went twang..at which point I left] Called me 40 mins later with both shocks replaced and in place...He said wasnt such a big deal. He said his tools were very old very heavy duty, non of the modern monkey metal stuff. [his plan b was to lower the four poster down to compress but didnt need it]  
Maybe he's pretty good. Took him 90 mins to put 4 new bushes in the rear shocks plus new egr valve and egr solenoid.
However, he couldnt solve overheating on hill's, did a full flush etc etc, still overheats. We've now found the thermostat on that vehicle has a sensor attached, appears they changed for that particular late model year for emission's. Waiting for one being shipped from USA [Chrysler dont make them anymore]
We think its mixed up being with Fiat...What now with Renault deal happening lol   

You might be on to something there.
Unfortunately my missus won't even entertain driving it (too big she says)
 
Going to swap the kids about, swap the eldest (11) to the middle row, her sister who is 4 is going to try the back row. Other daughter is 7 and she sits in the back row without a problem.

Hi I am back again the one thing that has helped is I downloaded a copy of the 2.5/2.8crd, 2.4/3.3 manual.
Without stripping out a lot of engine you need to go from the top and the bottom of the engine. I gradually removed the pipework  until I could see the exhaust manifold heatshield there are 4 x 10 bolts on the top and two  horizontally which are also for the engine lifting bracket. I wish I had an induction heater for loosening them [This is a project I am currently working on an economic induction heater]. When you remove the shield you can see the turbo properly there are 3 studs no 12  horizontally from the exhaust pipe and there are 4studs no 10 vertically from the exhaust mcd anifold you can only get at 2 from the top. There is a jubilee clip that you need to release to remove the silicon hose for the turbo. And there is also a No 13 on the oil pipe on top.
I noticed that there was not a jubilee clip on the air inlet pipe strange? . Now comes the fun to get at the bottom of the turbo last 2 no 10 and also the oil inlet pipe you have to go underneath!
Too remove the steel plate there are 8 x no 21 nut and bolts, 4 x no 15 1x 18 and 3x no 13  you also need to spray some free release on to the  threads of the 2 x 21 Rubber isolated mounts to chassis ,if you crawl underneath and look up above the bolt in the chassis is an access point so you can spray the thread.
My luck one of the bolts snapped so I am going to hacksaw the bolt out and make a new bolt.
 
You can now go up with a long extention and remove the 2 nuts that is my job today.
 
I will try to get some photos up as the next job will be the timing belt.
 
Out of interest has anyone fitted a 4x cam cctv and reversing system? 

Oh; never mind - the trip computer readings came back on their own; but at the same time the compass seems to have disappeared; showing only " - - " next to the outside temp. where the heading use to show. That's certainly a non-issue - just makes me wonder what next..    

Well took it apart,as yes I found three broken wires,and omg how hard they had become.....no wonder they broke

Wrong forum Roger... Stick it in the Delta area and you'll get a warm welcome! 

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

This is my first posting and it is something I should have done a long time ago, Let me introduce myself I am a retired commercial Audio Visual Engineer. But what has that to do with an automobile exactly!
I started life as a lowly Apprentice and the training was on Domestic products as well as TVs and Radios HiFi had just started
Thermionic Valves through to Surface Mount Components Technology. But the relevance was to touch to smell and to use your brain to think round the problem . In otherwords use your senses and keep it simple that is what made a good engineer.
During my childhood my Father instilled the basics of auto engineering he had trained engineers on Rolls Royce Merlins during the war and that groundeing hh e instilled in me.
I started off with Volvos 140 series to the 340's as well as the mini!. The next progression was the Renault Espace a brilliant conception by Matra I cut my teeth on those up until a Mk4. That was when I converted to Chrysler  2 Voyagers and now I am renovating a Grand Voyager 2.8 2007. It is belowing fumes and smoke as well as the usual electrical door problems.
I now have to start writing some articles to help others .
PS my wife drives a 2.4 auto PT Cruiser a mini Voyager.
So Hello from Gordon

Hi there!
Have you got white emulsified oil?
Or oily deposits in the rad?
 
Test the spark with an old lead and plug if you have them, one at a time, sit the plug on top of the cross member and observe the spark.
I had far more severe symptoms on mine, but 3 were crap sparks, and it just went suddenly, ok on the trip out, garbage on start up to come home.
 
If not try a new ignition coil - rockauto.com from the States can be cheaper than the UK!! 
I have just bought TWO coils, as mine went, after only 5 months, delivered in 3 days, for £70.00, all duties paid.
 
Or of course ebay.
 
If you were closer you could borrow one of mine!!
 
Just taken a quick look on ebay and £35.95 from Telford inc delivery, bargain.

I’ve owned my 2009 Grand Voyager 3.8 v6 Swivel n Go for 3 years now. Being honest, she can be a very thirsty girl when doing short trips. I’ve seen on average 18mpg on short trips. However, on long motorway miles driving steady 50-60mph, I’ve got that up to 38-40mpg. On a 430mile trip I often do, I fill up to the brim. This would probably have got me the whole 430miles if I had the balls to risk it. But the coward in me pulls in for fuel.

Damn fine result!

Another possibility - have you got the availability of a multimeter? To check battery voltage?
From my own experience on a previous GV 3.3 if the battery popped its clogs even a jump start won't do it.
12.7 volts or more after a good period of charge and 15 minutes off the charger I believe.

Excellent stuff mate well sorted!
More importantly as QinteQ says thanks for coming back with a resolution!
 
If only I could have been so successful with my old 2002 3.3 TCM to PCM signal fault. I did try second hand units at least.

not a chance lol