RichardM

Hi to the very few people who come here!
Our Voyager has finally had enough, and went for parts to a lovely chap last week!
I wish him well, and good luck, he'll need it!
Cheers guys!!

No need to worry (assuming the radio is standard GV), the radio is hard coded to the vehicle - disconnect away. If you've had this from new and have never flattened the battery or had to disconect it to sort out the electrics then you have a rare beast.

Be, sorry about the slight delay (approx 3120 days) but have been quite busy lately. Notice you were in Taipei when you replied to Penguin.., was in Taipei and Taichung 1984 (ish) - loved the place, loved the people - never learnt the language though.
Anyway, this is to offer my help as an apprentice moderator if the post is still vacant !
 
Regards  Richard

Blending dampers.
Nope, no idea how to fix that!

Managed to give it a good clean as my Mrs never does!
Obviously, it rained immediately afterwards!!

Hiya there!
I have the same situation, same car, nothing in the UK.
So either one of the stainless steel make one on the car companies, or a fortune from the States. Yep. I've carried on bodging it so far!!

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time. 

I think you have answered it yourself - water over electrics. Not at all good. Dry it and then move onward.
You hopefully know that the transmission fluid is checked with the engine running and hot?
Oh and post in the correct section, the forum is nearly dead anyway!
 

If there was little to no resistance, its probably touched valves sadly. And turning an eigth of a turn on the cam shafts then getting resistance could be normal, as in valves getting pushed down and touching a piston.
But other than that standard knowledge,  unfortunately I can't help you further, sorry!

Not aware of any previous details - there are three cables from the parking brake lever, lever to intermediate bracket, n/s cable to bracket and o/s cable these are extracts from w/s manual hope they help

It's a British company, found them through a google search

Did this a couple of years ago on mine, try this, cheapest I could find that had a good reputation. Works well

According to the manual !! 
TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The TRS has an integrated thermistor that the PCM/TCM uses to monitor the transmission’s sump temperature. Since fluid temperature
can affect transmission shift quality and convertor lock up, the PCM/TCM requires this information to determine which shift schedule to operate in. The
PCM also monitors this temperature data so it can energize the vehicle cooling fan(s) when a transmission “overheat” condition exists. If the thermistor circuit
fails, the PCM/TCM will revert to calculated oil temperature usage.
CALCULATED TEMPERATURE
A failure in the temperature sensor or circuit will result in calculated temperature being substituted for actual temperature. Calculated temperature is a predicted
fluid temperature which is calculated from a combination of inputs:
² Battery (ambient) temperature
² Engine coolant temperature
² In-gear run time since start-up
 
so check if fans are cutting in ??
Oil gets less viscous as it warms up .. I imagine this would cause slip rather than not changing up but I may be (and probably are) wrong.
If `the temp is out of range I would imagine you would get a OBD error code,although there is no mention of this in the 41TE section of the worksh*t manual .. check for error with key dance.
Also can find no mention of acceptable temp range - sorry.
Also, good to identify your vehicle as you may not have a 41TE box........

Only too happy to supply diagrams if required... On the battery discharging overnight, this may be due to an old or underrated battery. Also when you've got a few moments check for excessive drain from the battery with every thing switched off. There is a great deal of information on the site regarding parasitic drain (quite often caused by a faulty audio amplifier) - If it is this just pull the fuse and check again. On the subject of the fifth door, there are reports of this on the site but have never heard how (or if) it was resolved. Pity you live so far away as I have a donor GV (2006) with a power rear door that works fine (died of gearbox failure), as bignev said this sounds like a precursor to the TCM providing another challenge. When I bought the donor I spent a bit of time trying to fix the gear problem - resolved the all gears lit  up problem (wiring problem) - thought hey ho but did not resolve the gearbox problem - kept changing gear at will .. but that's another story.
Good luck with your project (don't want to be pessemistic but it's enough of a challenge keeping a normal GV on the road.. (Yes Bignev, I agree, there ain't no such thing as NORMAL with respect to the GV..

Hello there!
Take it back, you're in for a world of pain on Voyager electrics.
No, never come across anyone else with that particular fault.

According to the workpoo manual fuses 1,2,3 control the front lights
1 - Front Fog Lamps
2 - left parking / turn lamp 
3 right parking/ turn  lamp & rear lamps
( assume the parking lamps are also the front sidelights ?
Headlights are fed directly from the front control module (both high and dip
Bulbs blown ??
Switch dodgy ??
wiring damaged ??
 
let us know how you get on

Thanks for posting a 'solution' reply - helps everyone.

Sorry didn't motice the 6 speed auto bit...Ooops - check fluid level - again mileage / service history. Is it the same hot or cold - the engine / transmission - not the atmosphere. Sounds like luxury to have 6 speed auto but maybe 1 1/2 times the probles of a four speed ?
As far as I am aware there's no workpoo manual available for this model ?? - If it's anything like that for the Mk IV then you are not missing much.
 
Transfer the question to the GV 5 forum and see what happens

I still pop in every now and again
By downloads, I assume you meant attachment uploads? This was set at a max total of 5MB before - I've changed that to 50MB now, so you should be good to go!

Depending on how much you value the vehicle you could try drilling out the threaded section of the camshaft and helicoil it -WARNING  may destroy the engine if not accurately done.
otherwise;
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head cover
(2) Remove camshaft position sensor and camshaft
target magnet 
(3) Remove timing belt 
(4) Remove camshaft sprockets and timing belt rear cover 
(5) Bearing caps are identified for location.
Remove the outside bearing caps first 
(6) Loosen the camshaft bearing cap attaching fasteners 
CAUTION: Camshafts are not interchangeable. The intake cam number 6 thrust bearing face spacing is wider.
(7) Identify the camshafts before removing from the head. The camshafts are not interchangeable.
(8) Remove camshafts from cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Ensure that NONE of the pistons are at top dead center when installing the camshafts.
(1) Lubricate all camshaft bearing journals, rocker arms and camshaft lobes.
(2) Install all rocker arms in original positions, if reused.
(3) Position camshafts on cylinder head bearing journals. Install right and left camshaft bearing caps No. 2 – 5 and right No. 6. Tighten M6 fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 28).
(4) Apply Mopart Gasket Maker to No. 1 and No. 6 bearing caps (Fig. 29). Install bearing caps and tighten M8 fasteners to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Bearing end caps must be installed before seals can be installed.
(5) Install camshaft oil seals (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL(S) - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install camshaft target magnet and camshaft position sensor.
(7) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install timing belt rear cover and camshaft sprockets (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/ TIMING BELT COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION).CYLINDER HEAD COVER
(From the workpoo manual - sorry images are impossible to load due to stupid size restriction imposed on the forum
 

HIya.. yup seems everyone (if there are more than 1) have gone AWOL... spamming, well at least the witch doctors still haunt the site.

I agree pal, but I'm not sure if the site moderators / head guys are around much if at all. I can only go off the spamming that went on for a while and didn't get erased from the forum.

Assuming this is a late registered Mk 4, there is only one relay feeding the mirrors(according to the workpoo manual (no did not spell it wrong), if it's a Mk 5 then don't know.
Possibility the switch is at fault. Tried to upload an image from the manual but 18.iKb doesn't permit !
With respect to the park assist suggestion 1 - remove battery negative lead for 10 minutes... 2- clean each sensor individually with soapy water ?

Again, back to the lurid story of failure to start when the engine is hot (well not hot as in overheating, just hot as in at running temperature, that is to say between 1/4 and 1/2 on the temperature gauge).
Start the car in the morning (today it was -6 Celsius this morning, key in, wait for glow plug light to go off, start (turns over five or six times), fires up and idles perfectly. Drive along, accelerate etc. no problem. 
Drive 10 - 15 miles ( at -4 Celsius) Park up for 5 - 20 minutes, gauge is just off 0) Start up after glow plugs off (1 - 2 sec) away we go.
Park up for 6 hours, same - no problem.
Drive long enough to get engine hot, difficult to do at this time of year! Park up (say 1/2 hour), engine still hot, warm no way it will start without a blast of cold start, then drive, accelerate all tikety-boo.
Only error (repetitive) is P1130 - fuel pressure too high, too low. (Very helpful).
So over the last two years or so, pressure relief valve changed, pressure sensor changed, pressure solenoid changed, injectors checked So what else can it be ?
I read a post on the JEEP SITE , sighting the non return valve (FUEL FLOW BACK VALVE (Yank speak)) as a possibility ?
Has anyone replaced this pipe assembly, if so easy, hard, what am I going to bugger up ? (I have a spare car with a good engine (knackered gear box or associated electronics)
All replies gratefully received but it ain't normal fuel starvation - she accelerates like (expletive).
Doesn't normally stall - did a couple of times in the past but I put that down to me changing things and not bleeding her properly.
Pipe assembly thingumy attached -no it's not fails claiming file size too big (17.1Kb ??) - sorry
 

There are websites offering to supply a pin for the vin, tried a couple on your behalf both said they don't recognise the vehicle.. not suprising with a GV...
You could try other (pay for results) sites but I would be wary of spending a fortune on unproven sites.
I believe you would then need the DRB111 tool to reprogram the SKIM ????