BumBle02

Hi there!
Have you got white emulsified oil?
Or oily deposits in the rad?
 
Test the spark with an old lead and plug if you have them, one at a time, sit the plug on top of the cross member and observe the spark.
I had far more severe symptoms on mine, but 3 were crap sparks, and it just went suddenly, ok on the trip out, garbage on start up to come home.
 
If not try a new ignition coil - rockauto.com from the States can be cheaper than the UK!! 
I have just bought TWO coils, as mine went, after only 5 months, delivered in 3 days, for £70.00, all duties paid.
 
Or of course ebay.
 
If you were closer you could borrow one of mine!!
 
Just taken a quick look on ebay and £35.95 from Telford inc delivery, bargain.

As Inspector Cleusau would say, the problem she is sol-ved! Loose spade connector on the starter motor. Crimped up and now starting. Thank you all for your help and advice. 

Have you tried the earth lead connection to the starter motor? That was the trouble with mine with similar symptoms a year or so back IIRC. A quick wiggle and it magically sprang back to life. Replaced the spade connector with a new one after and it's not done it again. Good luck!

Well I got a Fox NT301 works great with my 2007 2.8 crd live data works good as well at around £55.00.

Hi Yes mine does that but when I put my code reader on it comes up clear put the code is in the key dance for quite a while then after some time it  goes do not worry get a code reader I use the Fox NT301 in works well on the Chrysler got it from Ebay good luck. Jeff

Hi It Was a blocked rad some of the veins were totally blocked at the botton of the rad thanks to all for there support. Jeff

To confirm a blocked radiator, get the temp up and try to press the top radiator hose. If it's quite solid, I'd lean towards a blockage. 
The other way would be up to temperature, then jamb the fan so it can't come on without warning. Put fingers through to feel top and bottom of radiator. 
 If cold at the bottom and hot at the top, blocked radiator. 

Drove to Spain in December [maybe 5 weeks after purchasing 2007 gen 4..2.8l] On all hills of note [up to 5k ft] temp gauge touched red. I turned on the blower of course to help dissipate the heat. Nothing in tow, only 1 passenger..me. The guy I purchased from showed me the bill/receipt for new water pump, timing etc. However on checking expansion tank... rusty as can be..Surely new coolant would have been used, maybe not a full flush thru laziness.
I dont have probs with pre heat not working, once up to temp sits all day...Just hates the hills, like the days before variable timing etc. Actually on the decline and with extra speed the temp drops very rapidly.
Another thing I noticed was on the flat, if you give it some juice I was surprised how rapid it is, but the hills, without a fierce kick-down it slows remarkably quickly down to 40mph from say 80...as if no torque.
Maybe Im just new to these and tis how it tis
Thanks for any comments
k

Keep us updated, 
 
This Ground cable (under carpet) I believe is responsible for more than just a door. 

George my mechanic charges a flat fee of £180 plus parts.....that is the cheapest anywhere in the country i beieve.

Just to add another price/job done, I got this done when I got my 2005 2.8CRD earlier this year and actually got it done at a Halfords Autocentre (before you groan, Halfords Autocentres are separately run to their bulb fitting empire!) as it's just beside work.
It's a pig of a job, so took them the majority of the day, but for belt and water pump it came to around £500 including parts.

Cutting out completely and not just to limp mode is usually caused by boost pressure and the sensor. Check sensor first as it can get severely gummed up. Other place to look is turbo actuator for freeness and that it actually works. 

...you took an injector from a 3.3 (petrol) and tried to fit it on a 2.5 (diesel)?!?!
 
You pushed the car around, did you hear any compression, it could be piston rings loosing compression.
If indeed piston banged the injector, you could have a cracked piston.
Try turn it by hand from the crankshaft, if it doesn't spin the piston/s are sized, if it does spin but there is no compression is one or more piston rings.
 
If you have compression and the engine turns by hand OK, it could be that the different injector (not by appearance but by the inside parts set on different values) kicked in the auto shutdown?!
 
Hope it helps.

Photo

On my grand V all the fascia trim around the radio and heater control pops off in one four screws paste this on youtube  ( Chrysler Dodge Grand Voyager Caravan 2004 (2001-2007) Radio Removal )  the top video by Andy Brown will help you a lot it did me hope this helps m8 .

Hi I know this is a old post but I've got some on my roof but stuck which way do the openers go in our out don't want to damage if anybody in Norfolk can have then free.

Your doing it all wrong   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnz65M4OYys , i used 2 clamps recently and it was not enjoyable.

First off it's worth a try at removing the "IOD" fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay, left side wing (drivers side on LHD - of yours is of course!).
 
Leave it out for 20 to 30 minutes and it might just reset things for you!
 
Or disconnect the battery instead, or afterwards if the first doesn't work!

Spray a lot of lube on it and keep moving? 

My parking box was in the rear n/s panel where the jack up bits are stored.

Hi Yes it is normal my friends does it as well both on 07 reg nothing to worry about. Jeff

If it were mine, a lot depends on how many miles its done. If it was say 50,000 then I would guess something drastic had happened to it like a previous owner having a water leak and seriously overheating it, whereby a skimmed head and bolts etc would be wise. Whereas if it had done say 250,000, its more likely that the gaskets worn out or been eaten away by the anti freeze (or lack of)/combustion gases and whilst the head may still need to be skimmed, the rest may be more salvageable.
 
In any case a new belt, idlers and water pump would be a prudent move, and (as said above) you will need cam/crank locks.

From you pictures the 2 silver one are grand and the blue one is not.
 
They have blacked out rear windows to try to keep temperature down in the back as there are no proper opening windows just the vent windows.
 
They do have their issues, a lot of electrical problems, if you do look at one play with every nob and switch make sure it functions as it should.
 
Issues with suspension and brakes are common due to weight of the car.
My parking brake has to be stripped and rebuilt before every mot.
Front nearside tyre wear is high again due to weight.
They don't have front leaf springs.
Only leaf springs in the rear.
They are a big heavy car so it takes it's toll on many of the running parts, not a problem if maintained regularly.

I had a bit of a brainwave - I decided to look on ebay for 2.5CRD gearboxes and found the attached photo.
It shows the orientation of the 3 bolts that need to be undone.
 
From that, I had another look at the diagram. I realised that I had misidentified the 3 bolts - the diagram only shows 2 of the bolts, but if you trace the dotted line down from one of them, it splits into 2 locations. 
 
I think I'll use a length of old exhaust pipe to direct some air from a heat gun onto the bolts and then use another length on my ratchet to get a bit more torque onto the offending bolts.

Another update this weekend...

umm...I'm probably misunderstanding your post....(sorry if I am)...they are just push fit and the cable end can be levered up.