gordy

Was just going to add with these adverts on our screens nowadays, there are some remarkable coloured plastic tapes for sale. You have probably viewed the latest one where the dude pulls the tape of the barrel repair and it spurts out. Then just sort of wipes it back on and it doesn't leak..Would probably do for hoses as well I'm sure...

So coolant pipes no problem, just the getting it in there ..

Here's the inside spagetti if interested. There is a printed circuit board in there as well. In the case of mine the heat transfer chamber was fractured, that's the ribbed chamber.

Was going to say it's the the bearings in the alternator, as it hums when they go dry. But you say the humming comes and goes..Well possible idea.

I'd be likely to slacken Bolt with pins withdrawn in case engine moves slightly. Lock up crank at flywheel end and don't use pin there as well. 

Its the flywheel end seal that causes oil mess. Odd oil drip at front of engine may not bother most of us. 

Here's a picture of the heater thats below and the hoses. So is leak from heater or pipes that go up to engine. If heater its Goosed.

I removed my auxiliary heater and replaced it with a loop of hose. You could do same by cutting out the rotten tube and replacing with hose. Not sure size of hose at mo..

Just a wee thought..Is the ABS light coming on then off when key inserted then started ?!! Dick Dasteredly mensioned this some time ago.

Trigger terminal. We bu**er. Had this loose push on terminal on my girlie. Went on for months. Knew what it was, but but going under bonnet those many times to wiggle it seemed like a new dance. Then it wouldn't start at all, even wi a wiggle. Starter motor was goosed this time. So motor replaced but trigger connection secured with sma machine screw, great, two jobs sorted in one.

Yes picture of your coin holder would be perfect !

It maybe a weak mixture we are looking at so give the MAF sensor a spray clean and check inlet manifolds/tubing for any leaks. Mind report back..

I think somehow you will get fuel pressure coming up.

I'm afraid to say its in the hands of the gearbox company now. So whether its just a relay away or a solenoid thats not going to help keeping the garages business going. So it'll be something like, "we'll strip it down and have a look". So big money then. Some garages will even fit secondand gearboxes but yours is a specialist. All I can say is keep us posted, as you never know.

P1685 is coving up as Key not registering with immobilizer, maybe your too quick in actions. This smoke thing, everyone gets it in their life sometime. Black smoke caused by too much fuel in mixture and not getting its chance to burn. Turbo is mentioned, maybe wastegate is not operating properly due to actuator faulty or tubes too it. Wastegate can be compromised with carbon. Of course we have the dreaded EGR of which it needs to close on booting it.

I'd say needs a carbon clean and Turbo checked out.. 

They say that some EGR's have a life of around 70,000 miles due to the temperatures they have to endure. Well anyway the clue here maybe accelerating, or to some booting it. In this instance, not sure how quickly the EGR works but it should be in closing mode and if it doesn't close it will bring up a fault code. Possibly what you have there.

See if you can get hold of a vacuum gauge and fit it temporarily on a hose near servo. Then start it and while watching gauge listen for leak while fingering about servo/vac pump/turbo actuator solenoid (not sure if one on this car). Magic fingers might bring you luck..

Owner shouldn't have sold car without telling you about those faults. Thinks he would have been free to do so as it was a cash sale but he sold a dangerous car.

Possible two faults with your car then and you've solved one. Down to checking if there is Vacuum now. 

It's this loss of brake assist that you should worry about. As QinteQ says your probably better getting it scanned. I think there's two sides to this fault, either it's just temp vacuum loss and needs sorted. Or the ABS controller is not happy about something. Usually with these cars when brake warning light flashes up its the wheel sensor 90% of the time. Keep us posted..

I'd say to check the Vacuum hoses and pump. Not sure about the 2.8 but on my 2.5 Vac hose comes from pump to brake assist cylinder where it uses it as a supply tank. from there it goes to Turbo actuator via a solenoid valve. Could even be solenoid valve sticking and blowing off (yes should be (suckoff). Remember someone back having probs with this valve.

Oh thought you guys would have filled this thread. Got we bit busy at end here. Three pictures to show what happens with Crank Censor. Hope this comes out ok..

Hi all not too happy about my answer and knowledge on how a crank angle sensor works. Well till now I have just excepted it works if engines running ok. It doesn't work if faults relate to Crank Sensor. Or could it be something else.

So what have we got from Harry, well a hellafa lot to bin the sensor. Difficulty starting, Missfiring and help ma bob P0355 sensor.

Replaced twice, still same so your jaw hits the deck and car shunted to back of garage. Forget it.

Nope Harry plods on with some tests but its a waste of time as you need an Ocilliscope, this is reason I'm back with this thread.

He was right input is 5v and output is 5v but its a square wave formation output with its switching frequency dependent on the crankshaft speed..I'll try get picture on here from pico tomorrow.

Oh Harry you got anything to tell us about your car.

Job done, yes, well sort off. I had changed the bushes prior to MOT not long ago as they were knocking. But one had popped out of its clamp and causing massive knock. So gave up fitting these stiff blue ones today and just refitted the one that popped out. So hopefull it will stay in its bed this time but I have my doubts..

Well all your problems relates to Crank sensor as you predicted. Codes P0355 to P0359 relate. Difficult to start because ECU not getting proper signal from sensor. Misfires/rough running/not going over 2200rpm due to spark timing not being controlled by ECU via sensor signal yet again.

But you have changed it twice, need check wiring or proper Chrysler part. I'm thinking secondhand one to see what happens.

Made a tool, wellsort of tool with house repair plates, get them at Wicks, Screwfix, etc. Galvanised plates with many holes, some shaped ones used to hold floor batons onto wall boards. Made 2 up with 10mm bolt, nuts, like big pliers. Will take picy sometime. The things one gets up too nowadays.

Am I getting old or summit. Yes ok. Got these two bushes from jeep chrysler, blue colour, and, and, how do I hold them open to get them over the anti-roll bar. No finger prising appart here this job. Tried a couple of blunt table knives and prised apart but, tight, spring back so quickly. I take it there's a tool for this, like reverse action pliers with ends to hold bushes open..

Hear your going backwards instead of forwards now. What does crank sensor run off, where does it get its signal. Notch on flywheel, several notches, touth missing on starter ring gear (silly yes). Sticking things in sensor hole, what if, gets broken off. Think you just accept it works (or doesn't) by putting sensor in position. Need to look this up. Is it square wave frequency ?