gordy

Mine went to scrappy with All electricals working too. Engine was a puller. It's just I ain't got the go go with this copd that I've got to repair the MOT faults.

Good Luck is all I can say.. 

Was a 2.5CRD 2003 with about all the toys. Had her 7 years with only service items. Reconned she had been a Birmingham posh taxi, while having 170k miles on her she probably had more. Clutch was a stirring the soup to find low gears over those 7 years. 

She was to sit aside again for MOT repairs so decided to scrap her. Got a bit welding to sill done 2018.

Brake pipes needing replaced. Clutch was a problem. Steering gear leaking. Engine was perfect, didn't need topping up, maybe due to the Redex it got on every fill, (Tesco £2). Always passed the smoke test too. 

She was a good old girl, would buy another if one came up not far away. Half the price of Volvo XC70's I was looking at.

I'm not soo good at mo so might not see another.

Selling her was a problem, had her down for spares and repairs in local facebook, £300 was far to much for most, so scrapy got it for £100 uplifted. 

As to annealing the copper washer, this should have been done after punching it out. Saying that I havn't seen one yet that looked as if it had been annealed just out of its packaging. Easy to do yourself though.

Doing a check over this thread as I had just flew over it in past. Did I just read 1 1/2 miles, one and half miles driving with petrol in the diesel. Can't believe your contemplating doing an injector change. Think it was my son that did this years ago with his injection car and he drove it back home about 6 miles. Didn't hiccup or anything enroute he said. But its up to you of course, garage, AA and RAC would recommend you change them after half a mile.

Naaa its jacked up at back, fronts ok. Same colour as mine was, nice.

When an ECU goes out with a spike, do the new electronics fitted need to be calibrated to let engine bypass key/security start and run. It's a case of, what does the spike do to the ECU.

Do you know if your getting fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Can you hear the fuel pump running, this is a nessessary thing of course which you could just say, "It should be". There is a bleed valve On the fuel pipe I notice near offside of radiator at top.

I have the Fiat plug in system here and it does quite a few things.

Change injectors and you can put new numbers in.

Tempŕatures of oil, coolant and air charged of not.

Pressures of fuel, oil and air charged and not.

MAF outputs. MAP outputs.

Settings of the EGR whan running.

This is etc etc etc.

Great thing plugged into my Laptop. Its not Chrysler oriented though.

I'll put a picture I took with my phone on here to see info but picture fuzzy.

Picture too big I'm afraid.

I take it you'll have got the ECU tied in with the security system etc so they will all party together.

I'm answering your words, "on it's last legs". 108k miles..Or did you get the spelling of "1" wrong and its actually "308 or "408". Sorry to say that mine went to the scrap yard in the quarry a few days ago, not because it was on its last legs after 180k + miles when bought it 8 years ago as it was a screwed back taxi I reconned. Then I did about 50k miles on it. Sorry to see her go but was needing too many repairs for MOT and I'm not up to lying under cars now.

Wonderfall..Great..Well at least we got a return on this fault. Pity that before repairing fuel pump you didn't try the other parts that were also replaced. Rail sensor, MAP, diesel filter housing, rail pressure regulator (was it ?). These have all been found to be culprits..

Teeth on the ABS castle ring should of course be all intact and clean. The sort of important bit here thats often not checked is the clearance between the sensor and the castle ring. Clearance, really technical here, is a fag packet box..Think thats around 0.022in (22 thou). Metric minds can work that one out..

I've never took the hubs off in the 8 years I've had the car. Replaced shoes two times. My old 69 year old fingers don't want to work anymore. Shoes are needing done again for MOT as it wouldn't pass, cos handbrake doesn't work..

Never really found it a problem when replacing the shoes, bit fiddly though. It's the way I build everything up before placing that helps..Did I mention I've a standin Panda, £20 road tax to cover car, as I take that bloody long to repair things.

Any answer to this ?

And and get that coolant system vented properly. Fill header tank. Next go look for highest coolant pipe which is the one coming off thermostat and heading around cylinderhead to radiator up front. Now this is the pipe that holds the air so look for a connection with clips/securements on it. And not the one that goes downwards to radiator. Back of engine is best. Slacken clip and slide a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Hissing maybe heard then wet hands. Secure. Check header tank. Has it went down. Good, topup. Thats air out. Well Most of. Have a beer..

Well the primer button is a good answer as it was: a/like/don't say/please don't/ I will break free here and say "Virus". For about a good few months on here not long back, about every answer was: fuel filter housing cracks where wire goes in.. Or seal at filter letting air in. Or Button not hard when pressed. Or Air getting into button housing, diaghram possibly. Course battery was always easy answer. No answer yet, like one of my diy jobs that goes on and on. Come to think of it my cars MOT is up on the 10th of Sept.

For your starting problem change the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve. Available on flee-bay so can get quick answer or added to tried that list. Mind you there is a sensor on the rail aswell and 4 injectors that might be passing fuel.

Fuel Rail Pressure Relief Valve. Now here's an item that when its on its way out causes problems. People have relented to new batteries to repair fault. Now batteries get old like we all do (bugger) and Captain could write a book on this.

So its speed of turning that engine over that fires it up. As relief valve wears it lets more fuel through that it should so pressure in rail reduces causing not just no start but other faults like engine cutting out on powering.

Dodgy MAP will cause your problems like it did on mine. Your sensor probably looks like a misshapen lump of carbon I bet, as its in the air box where the air coming in and Egr exhaust mix.

Yes swinging needles do point to battery problems like Captain says, but battery is whipping engine over ok. Yes well usually does to confuse you as it wants to live.

Seem to think there's a broken wire there somewhere as there's 4 thinks out of threshold. High voltage. Oil pressure. Boost pressure. 02 Sensor. Are these all atop engine under the cover.

Need to check my info on this one.

As big nev thinks; slack bolts possible.

This loosing power and being fine in 3rd gear obviouly means car has a fault and wants you to keep your speed low. Its pleeding by putting engine light up. See its an auto so hows the autobox oil level. Need to get codes from it somehow.

This vacuum solenoid valve that sits near top of the engine could be the answer, either that or a split vacuum hose in that area. People have reported on it leaking in operation at certain times so might leak/work off and on. Been thinking about the turbo actuator vacuum I said to operate it, but I think I'm wrong as the tapping for the hose comes off the boost side of the turbo, so its a variable air pressure. So does the solenoid supply the EGR with Vacuum and anything else.

Right ok your cars same as mine as I fitted towbar as well. I fitted a relay though, just means you got to get a supply wire from battery up front or from an interior supply. One picture shows the wires at both lights and what they do. Another picture shows all the wires that come down interior spin channel of car. Third picture shows the offside wires with relay behind cover. One of my pictures is too big to transfer onto here, one with rear light wires that's needed. Found out how to do it last year but but..  Thank heavens for that but still in dark on resizing. Had to take pictures on pictures then send them from me to me. Drizzling outside and dogs looking at me. Was going to but maybe someone could draw a better picture of the wires, colors, connections as I'm blogged.

Suspension bushes, is that the antiroll bar bushes. Think I'd get them changed even though look ok and been checked. Then there's the control arm, take it bushes are ok here. Check front bolt of arm is secure, tight, with weight on ground.