gordy
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Posts posted by gordy
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Fuel rail and pressure relief valve was going to say. Here whats the fuel rail, common rail, one that holds the pressure. Why change that !!
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Can't believe you've been driving around with oil pressure light on, just can't. The sump oil has been checked, has it, as no mention on here.
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Are you stow and go, if you are I pass.
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Wellcome. I'm afraid you'll need to guess on this one.
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I'm going for the Turbo actuator, but change MAP sensor first as its probably gummed up.
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Not much wrong with it then. Starts and runs fine when cold. Starts and sort of fine when hot as it needs caught on the spin to keep it going. So what is it a weak mixture when hot But runs ok. EGR maybe needing cleanout. Sensors shouldn't alter with temp.
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Right enough as Captain says not just for the Voyager but many cars have an indent in the strut plate for holding the end of the spring. But why it's causing problems on yours can only be explained by removing again.
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Need more info on model, engine, year, etc. It's not got an odd air suspension added has it. Are they just normal struts.
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Wonder what the flexiplate between engine and gearbox feels like when it progressifly goes out.
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Yes I thought that bignev. Think I would be searching the dismantlers for a recently replaced set, you never know.
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These more likely to lift rear end than keep it level. Is there springs under dust cover of normal Nivomats. Spring assisted dampers come to mind. Good for Motorhome rear ends, non alco chassis that is.
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My Grande Voyager 2.5 CRD is a 2003 but from your pictures showing Turbo Actuator and EGR operating vacuum valves (Saucer round shape) wish mine were there as well as mine must be down back of engine.
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It's this EGR that's getting me now after looking at, not it, but them. Flee-bay of course always liked Pam in that red costume. Had an idea about an electronic one and right enough that comes in at 2012 on. There's one which is just a diaphram in its flying saucer case on a mount, must be a cassing missing surely. Then there's the all singing dancing one, reduced in price, must be, £66. Singing one sports the full housing, diaphram in place with valve inside housing. And there's more, there's another actuator, from the one fitted in my wee Panda it operates the choke plate.
Quiet a buy at £66 if it suits your car.
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Price dosen't seem to be anywhere near £28. Earlier one must be cheaper.
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There's a picture of it somewhere that was on here. I'll have a look tonight..
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Now I've 2 answers here as I'm a little confused at mo. Either turbo wastegate actuator supply vacuum valve (better name somewhere). Or EGR operating supply vacuum valve. I'm sure first one is correct as someone on here said there only £28 from main stealer.
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As you say you've changed the glow plugs and it does need extra turning over before it starts. Have you checked that the plugs are actually working, getting power to them.
Does your engine come with a bleed squeeze bulb on the fuel line to your engine.
What to do before starting your engine is to prime it several times before turning fully to start and see if there is any differance.
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Whistling noise about an engine usually tells you that there is an air leak, or in this case a charge air leak between the turbo and cylinder head inlet port. Some people my tell you otherwise that whistling means turbo is working properly so it whistles, well. A little info on HST power cars, when the driver opens it up for go power, the engine revs increase as does the turbo. At or near top Turbo speed the vanes go through sound barrier which makes the whistle. But the whistle comes up through the big silencer on the roof and out in this case.
So look for the leak in your manifold and hoses.
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Hi just going to check for these spark plugs fitted between the banks that mike reports. I've a 2003 2.5 CRD so ok ok ok don't rush me, wrong year, you's talking 2007/8. Been one of those days, weeks. Amazing what you find on engines as you get old and decrepit..
Oops white coats coming must go..
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This fault relates to a small time when engine starts and is cold.
Possibly might be the EGR sticking and not closed when starting hence not fully oxygenated air.
Also going to too much fuel for air, Do an injector leakoff test and check for fuel dribbling when cold.
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I thought that unknown part was for operating the Turbo via actuator and controlled the Vacuum in them small bore pipes there..
Typewriter
in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
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