gordy

I take it the fans are not working. Check temp switch by bridging over the plug contacts and if fans run its the switch.

It should be self adjusting. If as you say its needing adjusted I take it the handbrake is not holding. So its a case of one side is holding and other side not. Both sides have got to hold by the same amount to make the handbrake. One problem with this handbrake mechanism is, the nearside cable is almost straight via compensating junction to rear drum. Whereas the offside cable has to go from nearside compersator over to offside then down to drum. So you have different lengths of cable.

But all you can do is forget what I have said, open up the drum/discs and adjust by taking up the slack in the most probably seized adjusters. If you are new to this sort of maintenance, don't pull your hair out, just ask. But mind this is a safety related job if you have no faith.

Does this help, its for 2.5crd either side of 2003.....You don't give details of your car.

All I can tell you is its between box and a module as that's what they said on the dote com forum. Just a case of getting down there and tracing all wires from box and where they go to.

Check back the forum someone put the part no on here recently.

Good to know that Berkswolf and the bit about the garage guy saying they commonly fail, is of interest to us regarding fuel rail loss of pressure. Loss or lower, anyway out of parameter as to what ECU expects.

Further too QinteQ. Voyager V6's can suffer from fried wires to the Autobox. There is a wire that goes from box to a module that earths. Check all wires it might surprise you how simple the repair was before changing modules.

Have you checked the wiring from gearbox to modules etc...

Fuel Filter housing. Fuel rail sensor or Pressure relief limiter valve. Injectors bypassing. What's the odds...Some results are interesting. Like a Motorhome recently on Out and about live, diesel of course, cutting out. Pages and pages, codes, scans of ECU running schematics/graphs....And answer was one Injector leaking a little too much...But what was it leaking when it cut out though. Max 25ml of fuel leak off/min each for CRD... 

Fleebay but these are second hand and possibly on way out. Or get them reconditioned at a diesel specialist, be interesting to know price.

Yes give it the boot tomorrow to check the pressure is there. And here's the valve fitted on the end of the Fuel Rail, one with the Yellow sticker on it. Other picture is the Air Purge Valve I've never heard about, it's behind the Alternator.

Yes I've got the manual in here somewhere but got it again with proper heading. Still can't find the relief limiter valve in the manual but there is a fuel rail return line indicated. There's a flow back valve but that's on the injector spill line. Interest in the Air Purge Valve on the HP Pump for removing air in LP pipes. Oh and any injector that has a spill return rate above 25ml/min at idle should be replaced. Looks like its a looksee for this relief valve then...

Pressure relief valve has been replaced on here. Symptoms were poor starting. Injectors leaking and relief valve leaking cause slightly different issues that need understanding.

Re-issue my words: has been replaced on chryslerforum.com as I haven't traced back on here. Valve on fleebay right enough, looks just like a pressure valve, pressure in rail lifts the spring loaded piston in the valve. £56 odd quid, Bosch make, but I'm not sure where it goes as I don't see a relief fuel pipe on the rail...

Sounds like the well known on here fuel running back to tank due to air admission. But lets wait to see what they find.

Powering as in Booting it, hard acceleration. This can give the answer. Good that garage is taking it over but we'll see.

As to the reversing lights check out the switch on nearside of gearbox. To check if its the switch, bridge across the two wires with the ignition on and if they light up its the switch at fault. If they don't check fuses and wiring.

Second thoughts here check wiring connections in boot.

A bit taken aback her Jason, I thought by now having a Voyager a hard reset was a known thing. The lesser reset is to just remove the neg terminal and leave disconnected for say 20 minutes. The hard is a case of removing both battery terminals and holding them together to draw down any power in the capacitors and electronics. I have to check again to see I'm on the right forum. Here I thought QinteQ was on here. 

So its a fuel pressure issue then but there's a "Y" junction here, either go the injectors and pressure regulator leaking past or the other branch is the fuel running back due to air getting into the system. One question, is it cutting out on powering.

Ahhh seen them on a car on E-bay, very smart it was too. A bit Car Porn here.

Just noisy but what's a Startech Bar...

Any answer to this Jason as it sounds like a Hard Reset required.

Leakoff on bypass valve but no difficulty starting or cut out in powering, interesting, or is it a guess by the garage.

If your not having any issues regarding cutting out under load your injectors must be ok. Sounds like you have a little air in the fuel line. Try leaving ignition on a little longer before going for start and see if there's any difference. 

Find us as in name on Car as in Chrysler Voyager. Hello nice to meet you all, I come from Dumfries which is glowing with the heat just now. Was 26/79 degrees today and too hot to sit in car. Used to do much car repairs but due to damaged back I am now an organiser, organise work to car that is. Gathering faults on cars now and rectifications is now a hobby. How's that.