gordy

Your car would pull to the left or right under top strutt windup where the top strutt bearing had gone and top of spring grinds into the top hat metal. So when you turn left the spring turns partly and rest goes into spring. Then turn to line car up straight ahead and there's a pull in spring to left. Overturning steering wheel might untwist spring but dangerous. Sounds a windup this but I'm sure anyone who has had a top bearing go will confirm a steering pull.

Our dogs could hear me coming a mile away as well as my friendly neighbour. Turn out to be the Alternator and only thing we could find with it, was the shaft/pulley was not as free turning as it should be. Got a replacement tensioner too just in case. 

Before removing head try drilling out centre of plug so far that heated element doesn't fall inside. Then use stud extractor to remove plug casing. If this fails, well second option is to remove head.

Best place to try as it has been found before to cause your problem is the EGR pipework between EGR and inlet manifold. It is known to split.

I'm reading here about replacing rusted through steel coolant pipework that could be replaced with copper pipe. Course the copper pipe would need to be annealed at bend places and either do the bending with spring inside pipe or tube bender. Then I'm thinking that I bridged out my auxiliary heater with coolant hose of the correct inner diameter. So why not replace the rusted pipework with coolant hose. Of course steel pipe is good at supporting itself with few clamp to underbody and this is probably why they use steel. So why not use rubber hose with extra clamps.

Wonder how many other people have this problem and like me are just taking it as being a rolling along sound. I've just really thought about it since it started to rumble more when going around corners this year, Jan2017 to be precise. But saying that there has been a rolling noise for a few years now. Took it too my son's house yesterday some 70 odd miles as he said he would change the two of them. I'm saying two of them because there is a rolling noise from both. But sorry to say with the rain, then sleet and snow it was a no, no. So we rumbled back home after included shopping trip. Aiming to get them replaced this week if possible, otherwise we rumble on.

Just wondering if there's a reason for your stripped belt. Are all the wheels turning and not seized, as like Alternator pulley.

Thats them arrived, got 2 of them as think other side is suspect too. Quite amazed by delivery time on 24hr Royal Mail, ordered yesterday received this morning. Jeep-chrysler uk was chosen and looks like their made in Poland where lots of Chrysler parts come from. £72 odds seems good for these well made hubs. Just emm need to get them fitted now. Have two offers so thats not too bad for someone who used to do it for others.

It looks like Chrysler wheel bearing run dry for a long time before they give up.

Heres a few related things that I think are, well related. Been a rumbling sound from front end for some time now. ABS light sometimes comes on then goes away. There's a groaning noise sometimes from below left side passengers floor. And the answer may lie from grumbling noise from offside from end when going round left hand corner but goes away as you straighten up. I'm going for wheel bearing here to start with and see if it's causing excessive gap clearance at ABS sensor.

As too wheel bearings there are many to chose from from fleebay, Euro and Chrysler parts. Euro want £235 on their site but £79 odds on fleebay. Chrysler are same. Fleebay has then ranging from £32 to £80 each or £65 for the left and right. But Chinese ones are there somewhere. Does anyone recommend a seller.

Is this Diesel or Petrol. If its diesel could be fuel problem. For a test, turn ignition key to on several times and each time wait 10 seconds. This should pump any air out of engine and tell us something.  Then try for start.

Certainly seems like your loosing he fuel pressure as in air in the fuel. Filter is a know factor to problem. Doesn't sound like a sensor. Check fuel side.

You'll need to get this key dance with ignition key done right as there must be a P code. Check under Key Dance on here. Your words of leave for a while then it starts maybe a clue to a sensor. Crank sensor has habbit of not leaving a code. But fuel system should be checked from filter to fuel rail of air getting in or leak off.

This slow cranking is possibly the answer. I was going to say to renew the starter but you have did that. Need to check starter connections or even if possible try another starter.

Seems to be three issues here. Looks like battery is loosing its charge overnight with old battery then with new battery. Common occurence on here with paracetic drain. Then it cuts out on acceleration which sounds like fuel pressure problem as to injectors or bypass valve leaking too much. But second could be a third issue which could cause it not to start as well. So to cut things down, does the car start ok first thing after Right away fitting a Fully charged battery. This cutting out on slowing to a stop clouds my mind with Vauxhalls petrol idle control valve needing cleaned...But first try Charged battery.

Get a pair of higher spec cars self leveling rear shocks, like for an Ltd edition car. They are recognised by their bigger diameter around body. If your lucky get a good pair from a car breaker. Then whatever you have in the boot it only drops slightly..

Leak may also originate from rear window wash hose which travels along floor channel below handbrake mount to back door. But centre consol requires removal to check it out.

Maybe an MOT issue this. Removing a Cat on a petrol that had one when new likely to be an MOT failure. Check first.

With no undue smoke or running problems only thing I can instantly think of is engine temp sensor telling ECU it's still cold. Service item like air filter should be nice and clean of course. There's been a few of these high mpg issues mentioned on forums, but, if there was an answer, we're not getting to know.

Right here we go, this relates to a BMW 1 Series which have loads of problems so don't buy one. Cracked ABS Rings its headed. Reports of juddering from the car from around 30mph upwards. Misfire is described. ABS & Traction warning lights may be on. Stored code relating to ABS sensor signal incriminating a sensor. As I said this issue appears to show a misfire. This cracking of the ABS rings is a common occurrence on this model so don't buy one.

Locked out from above answer.

Bignev sounds about right. Read this story as yet to find, where this car not a Chrysler, went from Garage to dealer and they couldn't fathom it out. Until while car was up on the air someone found a crack on one of the castle rings. Well they solved it, not by plugging in sophisticated equipment or turning bedside light on, but by luck.

Its one of these things that doesn't come up on diagnostic equipment, or person that doesn't understand what their looking at. 

Go you gremlin...got it.

Spade connector on starter coil gives this fault if loose, had this on mine. Squeeze spade connector with pliers and press onto coil spade. Test for start.

Some starters have a loop connector on the coil wire and secured by a small machine screw to coil terminal.

Possibly looking at a break in soldier joint behind dash clocks.

Maybe a battery issue, is yours quit new.