gordy

Try exhaust bandage. Repaired a few leaks in mine a few years back. Need to check for more before next MOT..

Crankshaft sensor usually shows its head when it heats up, sending back wobbled-DE-goop voltages to the ECU...Then when it cools down it seems ok, until !

Wondering if your Turbo Wastegate actuator is actually working. Hose not connected to boost side after being renewed. Either that or a Turbo hose leak. But low boost might give black smoke unless ECU corrects.

Noticed an intermediate cable for sale with the 90deg bends that goes from left side to right side on Shpoch the internet seller. Alright if you stay near the seller. 

Yes I've got your bigger battery choice as well, having to cut a bit of battery tray out. Worth while job. I got rid of my battery drain problem by turning off interior lights at the adjuster wheel every time I get out.

P0235 still on going with my car, goes into temp limp mod if I boot it. Thought to be over-boost with Turbo waste-gate not being operated by the actuator. Had the complete shutdown issue on booting it but Boost sensor sorted that. 

Check your coolant as Aux Heater may be cracked inside. 

This P0132 associates with other car brands as well and comes under O2 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 1. Front sensor. Fault in the car that I was reading about lay in the wiring loom between o2 sensor and ECU. You've not got a DPF fitted have you, or is that just for Diesels...

Wait for it to return...

Don't forget that Eurocarparts usually run with a 33-45% discount.

I costed them at about £110 each with those part numbers. There is other suppliers though that I found before Christmas but put car aside as can't work outside in this permanent rain.  Buycarpartscouk. Bestpartstorecouk. With makers as Dorman & ACDelco. Van Wezel. Silly cheap prices for some cars about £15 each..

Overheating...Blowing out coolant...That large bore coolant pipe from Thermostat, around top of engine, then into radiator is probably full of air so get it out. Bleed for us...

My Shoe Backplates, dust covers, flying saucers, on mine are a bit knaff...Got to use 4mm machine screws through the springs and shoes to secure...

5073 640AA - RH.

5073 641AA - LH

Found a supplier but they don't go by those part no's.

Car off road at mo....It's tooo cold outside for my knackered body...

Amen......

There is a grommet hole in floor, probably for left hand steering wheel shaft, under the carpet. It's low down in engine bay so not sure if I had to get underneath to retain the wire and guide up to Battery. This is fused power wire for towing relay of course which sits behind offside rear lights in panelling.  

Yes Everyone "MERRY CHRISTMAS" to you ALL... So with a Hic..Burp...Belch...Not so much Boaking....Whine Here...There...Starter Whirring...No Start...Kick it There...Hammer Even...Fill the Tank...Again...Sit...Drink...Have Another...Hic....Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....

Sorry to say Loved France when we went in Motorhome. So Bl**dy laid back. Quiet roads. Old world Villages and Towns. Had intension of going to work and live there but contract fell through. Blast...And weather...what more can you ask for...

Check Vacuum Solenoid on nearside at front of engine that operates the EGR. Has 3 small vac pipes fitted. If it is from there is obviously sticking. 

How about Caravan pipework fittings. Its flex hoses with quick hard plastic connectors. Could even fit 15mm copper pipe front to rear and use quick fittings.

Check its at fault by removing left front wheel, pull off sensor connectors and bridge over connections. If lights now work its faulty. I got mine off Fleebay. Mine's a 2.5CRD though.

Did you test the Waste Gate actuator was working before installing. Or did a new actuator come with each Turbo.  

just a wee thing after having worked on 3000HP diesels and overhauled the seals myself. I don't know what the thickness of the CRD seals are or if they have been annealed but they should be easily bent if annealing has taken place. The seals have to crush slightly, hence the annealing, to form the seal when injector clamp is tightened. From what I've seen of these copper seals, they have only been pressed out of copper plate as annealing makes copper look dirty. Just wondering if this is why so many people get black death.

It's been mentioned particularly on the dote com forum (chryslerforum.com) that there is a problem taking this pulley off and welding is required to weld the two parts together so it can be either screwed off or pulled off. So take this into consideration.

Now there's a thing. I was running with this odd noise from the vicinity of the auxiliary belts and pulleys for about 2 years till I got to bottom of it. Sitting in a Wicks car park this Voyager came in and it was louder that mine but I wasn't sure of the repair required. Well I had purchased a replacement Alternator of fleebay from a breaker for £120, maybe a lot but it was like new. Anyway my friend removed the Alternator (well I continue to be knackered with back pain), and checked the belt tensioner which was found to be ok. Alternator replaced with new belts and god what a difference, as I can hear myself think now. So it wasn't the alternator pulley which was still clutching but the bearings in the alternator were what looks like dried out as shaft was stiff. So if your running with a loud hum from engine check the alternator.

Fuel rail pressure sennsor AND Bypass/over pressure valve. Certainly pressure fault but got to go a few places like possible air in fuel due to filter letting air I. Then there's possibly an injector spilling too much so spill test required. If you see to all this your engine should run faultlessly on and on....Well there is other things but.

Hotrod 21st Feb 2017 on tother forum (dot com) had this come up (together with P1685) and he ordered an air flow meter. Then there was a mention of a fuel temp sensor fault for code. Wonder if trying to start engine with meter removed would confirm this.

This dieing on acceleration could be the boost sensor.