bignev

I believe the alarm horn is a separate unit to the main horns ?. If so, and if you can find where it is, simply cut the wires to it. The flashers keeping going isn't such a pain. If you do find exactly where it is please post on here, as I get that now and then and will happily cut mine. I don't care if it makes it more stealable, or that the insurance might not like it. What self respecting toe rag is going to steal a 15 year old V'ger ?
Other than that perhaps there's an alarm fault code that could be read ?, or visit an auto electrician, or live with it. Even with the elevated 2nd hand value of cars at the moment, an old V'ger with issues isn't worth very much at all .  

2007 Grand Voyager 2.8CRD (2006 model ) - RG 
Twice now the alarm has 'detonated' after unlocking the car. Relocking does not reset it. Fortunately the immobiliser does not initialise, therefore I was able to drive it with the alarm sounding and the flashers going. After around 3 miles the alarm just switches off.  After the first time I changed the fob battery and assumed that was the cause but today, three days later it just went off again. This is a U.K .vehicle. and has the Thatcham alarm system fitted Any ideas please ?

Unfortunately you don't say how many miles it's done, which would be a good indicator as to whether or not it's even worth the cost of changing the oil .
If say we're talking 150 - 175K, then maybe an oil change and filter will save the box. If it's more than say 200K you'll be very lucky IMHO.
If you only bought it 2 weeks ago it is unbelievable that the previous owner didn't know there was a problem, and as such sold you a dud. A few words need to be exchanged.

1. I am no expert on these auto boxes (or anything else on these over computerised beasts, the combination of electronic and mechanical 'challenges' complicate things but having searched and read many problems concerning the transmission I would suggest the following approach.
Being as it gets worse when warm / hot I would suspect an oil change might resolve the problem.
Change the fluid and filter as you state. Do not add any 3rd party product to the oil initially, see how it responds to the new oil first. You must use ATF4.
Whilst draining the old fluid check with your fingers for 'grit', if the fluid is smooth then it's a good but not conclusive evidence of a sound box.
As far as I understand it the computer needs to relearn it's cycling after an oil change - didn't seem so when I did mine but have read that a number of longish runs are required including kick downs, up-hill climbs etc. to optimise the gear change 'point'. Also this gives the box's valves to be 'washed' with the new fluid and may clear any partial blockages caused by old contaminates.
I wish you the best of luck & hope it's nothing more than ancient oil causing the problem. Please update the thread with any results to help everyone else.
 
Richard
 

I know it's been a while (a very long while) - but I got hold of the latest software version, so here you all go!

Hello Everyone,
As of yesterday, the proud owner of a Crossfire! Desperate to get the top down but it hasn't stopped raining all day! :-(
Happy to be part of the forum - have waited years to get this car!  Bodywork is lovely for its age, but I hope it is as good under the bonnet! Got a three month warranty, but guarantee something will go wrong after three months and one day. :-)
 
Ferrysider.

Hi everyone. I'm a lifetime fan of American cars and owned many. For me, the GV is the best MPV even though it's an 04, I've owned it from new and it has served me well.
 
JollyJack (JJ)

Long story, 
 
2.8 CRD 2007, New head gasket (correct size and properly torqued), eight valve lifters, new top end gasket set, new water pump, timing belt and pulleys, fitted at 90 degrees after TDC using camshaft and crankshaft locking pins.
 
Now the sad part:
 
First start ok ....... will not accelerate beyond 2500 rpm.
 
Stripped it it all down again (except the head gasket), reassembled .............  same story
 
The damn thing is in "Limp Mode" 
 
PNDR123 all have little green squares indicating this fact.
 
The engine work was done in situ and I didn't touch the gearbox.
 
 
ANY IDEAS ????
 
 

Assuming there are no knocks on running this is probably an electrical fault.Check for shorts or o/c.
There's an awful lot of cables that go across the head, including the accelerator sensor cable. Suggest check if any cables have been caught during the strip, rebuild. I had an intermittent short on this particular cable and it caused all PNDR123 to light up. A short on cable can cause strange things to happen on this vehicle& prove a bugger to track down. 

Just an update on that £80.00 alternator I bought from ebay. It's great. Waited till now 'cause I wanted to make sure it lasted more than a couple of days. It works great, charges at 14.2 when the battery's down at 12.2 volts before starting ( I do leave her for a few days sometimes), then goes down as the battery charges. (I do not have the temp mod).
The advert says 160Amp which concerned me originally but it certainly does the job and doesn't appear to be overcharging the battery (Optima Redtop [AGM]).
 
Just an adjunct on the battery.
When I bought the car the battery wasn't charging properly so bought a new (as above) battery. With the poor starting also bought one of these magic chargers that repairs duff batteries. Plugged it into the old battery and after a couple of days and a couple of repair mode attempts Voila! battery was back up to charge and holding charge. -> It now sits in the old girl with the new one powering the bought for spares one until I get around to changing them back.

If there is any wear in the suspension setup at all the tracking will only be based on where the car has settled. for instance a worn track rod will give different reading depending on how it's at rest. 
 
Obviously a respectable/honest outfit would say to you that there was wear, and that they couldn't guarantee the setting, but in my experience such places are nowadays few and far between, and if the name starts with 'Kwik anything' be very beware..........

Thanks or the reply Andy, the Pressure Relief Valve was changed some months ago before finding the original cold or warm no go was caused by the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing had a split diaphragm. Any idea how accessible the crank and speed sensors are AND.. why does it kick off straight away when wafted with some Quick-Start ? dur...............

Hi Richard,
 
Welcome! Others will probably stop by and help, hopefully my memory of these beasts will help, sadly I no longer have my own.
 
So this is one that has cropped up from time to time quite often. It's also a problem I had on my old CGV (The second one I owned). Same thing, it's a warm start problem and it's very repeatable as you describe.
 
My suspicion though is it was mechanical. When hot there is expansion in most components, and in my thinking it's down to poor compression why it won't start. It just turns over and over, it occasionally tries to catch but then dies (If you listen carefully to the engine you can hear it almost catch then immediately fail and back to starter motor just spinning the engine).
 
If I still had mine I'd be starting to look at the cylinder head gasket or even cylinder rings getting worn and loosing compression when hot. Once engine is running it sort of self-heals as it's not as noticeable but when starting that's when you need it most.
 
BUT after all that, sensors also deteriorate when hot so your thinking of swapping sensors is logical. My first thoughts would be the PRV on end of the diesel rail, the crank and speed sensors too, one by one is sensible here. All of those can affect the startup and are also sensors very prone to temperature related failures.
 
On the radio/CD you should be fine fitting. You'll need the code from the old one though. The codes are normally stored in the ECU and 'pair' when they connect up, fitting a different unit I suspect will trigger the need to enter the code, which if you don't have the original manual/code doc for the donor car might not work, but I'd say give it a go.
 
I recall that relay you mention but cannot for the life of me remember it's function. I'll see if I can find out!
 
Cheers,
Andy

@@Sentech There are actually two locations for the 2.8CRD (and 2.5CRD) fuel filter on 4th gen. On every 2004/2005 model I've owned they are underneath to the rear by the fuel tank. None in the engine bay, but I've worked on ones with the filter (with the small rubber manual primer on the top) in the engine bay as you describe also.
 
There seemed to be several variations on the design and so you need to physically check as I've yet to find a way of finding which edition matches which location for fuel filter and lift pump!

I too had serious overheating issues in the past, which I thought I had sorted by fitting a new Thermostat at first, and then a new Radiator.
 
All worked well for 2 years with the needle only going past centre when either really booting it, or on a long hill on a hot summers day, until this week 
 
Currently I'm on holiday in the south west of France, and thought we'd pop over to Spain for a few hours. I've done this before by going to Vielha which is a bit hilly but not too bad. This time I thought I'd go through the Aragnouet/Bielsa Tunnel. However what I didn't know was that the Tunnel entrance is at 5,920ft (according to the wife's Iphone) and by the time the old girl (Voyager not the wife) got up there, the temp gauge was near vertical with bells ringing and the Oil pressure light on  . Fortunately there is restrictive traffic through the Tunnel and waiting 5 mins for a green light gave the engine enough time to cool down. On the Spanish side the road is more forgiving but even still by the time I was back up at the Tunnel entrance on that side, the gauge was also near kissing the limit. Fortunately coming out on the French side was straight into a rainstorm so the rest of the journey was uneventful.
 
The car seems to be running okay despite its 'cooking', with the Temp gauge just as it was before, but time will tell if it makes it back to Blighty.
 
Moral of the story is that on an old Voyager don't put it in a position where it could get excessively hot, and trying to fault find what can be done (other than the obvious fixes) to stop overheating, will be a time consuming and expensive business.   

Hi there, yes the non stow n go is a totally different exhaust, and I also didn't think the 2.5 had stow option, as it was an earlier model, and I think it was a manual not auto. I've never found an aftermarket exhaust for my 3.3 petrol stow n go, in this country anyway. They are available from the US but not for a diesel, sadly you could quite possibly be into having one made. Or is it so bad it can't be patched up? I've bandaged and pasted ours a couple of times now!

Have you checked for crud build up on the radiator affecting airflow?
Or it could be that the rad is clogged up internally, despite the flushing.

Mine is also black and blue, but only for a short time before it turns itself off. If yours works, think yourself lucky irrespective of colour 

Hiya Richard, do you get it to start by proving the fuel pressure manually?
On another vehicle my problem was caused by the fuel non return device failing so it drained back to the tank. And the pump can't pull if there's air in the line! New non return on, sweet as you like!

Well just went out and disconnected the power to the big solenoid and the engine management light has gone out. The code still shows when doing the key dance ,but at least it is now clear according to the dash board.

Try giving the boot struts a good oiling. I thought mine were failing and gave a wd40 spray to the hinges at each end and also where the strut "telescopes" and it fixed it.

Thats fine, but how much easier with a drain plug. Then when you drop the pan there is not loads of oil coming out from a large area. When I change my engine oil, thats how the gearbox should be also. Lets be fair. you don't drop the sump for engine oil.

I have this trouble all the time. I am a Babe Magnet. Women are just after my body. Although I dare say it's just for scientific research.

Hi there and welcome!
 
However, I'd suggest that you post questions for help in the relevant area of the Vehicle Assistance section! It seems many members don't habitually check the newbie area!
 
Good Luck! 
 
Nev

The electrics on these cars are so odd, now its mot`d and driving it the mirror adjustment and folding function are now working fine , the only thing to start working again is the tail gate