bignev

And well what do you know, our 2005 has just done the same thing, again. Only this time the resisitors are far more readily available, part number 04885482AC, and only £20 to £30 on that wonderful market place ebay. i got one only a few miles from home, £20, fitted and sorted, well for now.......

Flat battery!??

OR: Check to see if your brake light switch works, as it's the signal to let it come out of park. Do the brake lights work? When in park, which yours obviously is, when you put your foot on the brake you should hear a small click, if not it could be simply that.

Hey - Congratulations there!!!!

Personally I would do them all, give it a treat and change that old fluid all through!

Welcome! Taking a guess at your car, if it's a Chrysler, Grand Voyager, Diesel, then if you search the many posts on battery drain you'll see it's all too common. And the remedies for it. Cheers, Nev

Yep mine's similar, 3.3 petrol, won't stay in high gears and let you use the torque with more throttle, just changes down and revs.

Hiya fella and welcome! I've never come across a GV with front sensors myself. An acquaintance of mine fits aftermarket sensors, but they have a switch for the front ones somewhere. Because they can't be connected into the car ecu to detect speed to activate, or deactivate if they were activated by the reverse lights.

Hi there, the switch on the ignition key side of the steering column stops it happening automatically, flip the switch forward simply turn them off so they stay out all the time.

I also would reckon the remote, either battery or not coded to the car. The key does only unlock the one door, on both my GV's. So that's not a problem, or the other ways its working, it's what it does.

Or does it have too low a viscosity oil in there, if it's ok on start up till the oil thins and the perceived pressure drops. Had it on an Impreza quite a few years ago, not quite the same as the oil pressure light would come on when starting hot and take a while to go out, soon swapped it back to Mobil 1!

Follow the link QinteQ put on his reply #4, and in short sadly it is probably going to cost you some money to actually do it - good AUTO locksmith and second hand remote and you should be good to go.

Hee hee, yep!!

Hi there, try wheelfitment.eu

Well there you go - that possibly explains why on my first GV, that when I reversed, having not released the park brake, the bugger then started to stick and drag if I used it. So I got into a bad habit of not doing once I eventually sorted the whole lot out.

Hi there, the noise when you put your foot on the foot brake in Park is the releasing of the gear lever catch. To enable it to change out of Park and into the gears. I was very confused about your phrasing of the pedal not latching when you press down on it, correct - it doesn't and shouldn't. The handbrake LEVER is pulled up. So I wasn't sure you actually had the right car, as some do have a foot operated parking brake.

Welcome! Indicators usually flash faster (assuming no blown bulbs) if they have been changed for lower wattage items, as the flasher unit is designed for a rated load, usuallu 2 x 21w plus approx 3w for the side repeater. Have they been changed for LED's? They are often lower watts so could cause the problem. The mirrors are a frequent problem, I've had it on 2 of mine, but check the plug connectors just inside the wing next to the door opening. Or the cabling to them, one side on mine won't fold to the correct place anymore. So I taped it up, got fed up with it!.

Welcome! Yes they do tend to have a few niglges!

Sadly for you it was only on the 3.3 petrols for some reason. You would need the pipework for the heater, and AC, and the pipes at the front these tee into are different anyway. And the heater / cooling coils at the back, and the ducting, and a new controller at the front, and maybe the wiring harness is the same, but unlikely, and knowing Chrysler possibly other stuff, or buy an LPG version!!

Yep straight up mate, my Lisa was very amused when I read that out to her!

Er, actually, yes she is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

yep I know the one, with the little strop too, who's ruddy moved it etc hee hee. Followed by piss taking by the wife. They have way too many separate bits of ruddy kit for my liking, too many different brains all thinking different thoughts!!!!! My local guy charged £70 for the key and transponder, coded in to the car, and another £30 to code in the remote as he needed a code from Chrysler which he had to pay for. I know he's genuine, my MOT man uses him too. Of course that also pays for him to turn up at your house too. The other "shopfront" guys were cheaper for a key, £50, but said the fob was a main dealer only job, which it wasn't. And would need a new fob, which it doesn't.

Oooh as my Mrs would say - did you do a man look??? Ah, I was thinking the ecu was the "main" unit in the chain, and this would control the alarm from it. On my petrol I changed the "Powertrain Control Module" because the "Transmission Control Module" wasn't communicating. There is also of course the "Body Control Module" as well. Not to mention the control modules in the sliding doors and the tailgate! I tried pairing the extra fob on mine from the details, but no joy, so I had the auto locksmith code it in. (I had an original to do it with). None of mine have made any sound on arm or dis arm - but plenty when they go off!! Personally, for all the hassle you will most likely get, now you have a key and fob again, I'd get a second hand remote and get the auto locksmith to code it in when he cuts you the new key and transponder! That's what I did.

Yep that's the job in a nutshell, I'm slightly wary every time I have to do stuff on mine recently as it's an ungrateful bugger and it almost always ends up leading to something else too.

Hi Gareth, sadly of course then it's a guess if the other ecu works anyway, and may not talk to the other component ecu's, transmission and powertrain and others around the car without reprogramming but I don't know. I tried a replacement ecu on my old petrol 3.3 as a (cheap) desperate attempt, but it didn't help with the problem I had, however once I put the original back in it had no ill effects. So worth a try in your case - Battery disconnected first! Just swap the ecu and ignition barrel. The remote fobs and keys are coded to that ecu so I'm quite sure will work with it. Assuming they did to start with of course!! But your old one won't. And you shouldn't need to move the sensor ring, it senses the key immobiliser. I personally hardly ever use the door keys so obviously you could do that job later and get the weekend out of the way. Oh just a safety caution - leave the windows open when you do it - better safe than locked out!!