crispinchurch

i have since put a longer pipe on and have it running a bigger bend when doing one do the other as well 
but have seen in Wilcos that they do a quick connect the correct size 
will say buy 16mm hose by 10m roll was a money saver as have hand the long metal heating pipe that are in front rust on bracket so ran new hose there as well

download them off net  google is your friend
 
http://en.chrysler-club.net/manuals.php?ddlb_model_category=4&ddlb_category=11&ddlb_model=13&ddlb_language=2&ddlb_submodel=64&cb_ok=Filter
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/

26" and 16" rear

use 5w30 5w is telling you its very thin 15w is too think you could us it for a top up when it only needs half a pint 
asda sell 5/30 under £20 most of the time or europarts have 4l for £14

Can we have a tab for lpg converted grand voyagers. To discuss problems, tips etc

I was closing the tailgate when I heard a loud metallic crack and it stopped moving.
Let’s get some tools out and remove the trim that covers the motor, Low and behold its chain driven; Motor drive chain which moves a slider up and down a guide had snapped.
So off to my local engineering parts supplier and ordered some 3 spring links (only 2 damaged but got an extra one as spare) which arrived the next day.
With the new chain links in my grubby little hands, I rushed home and with a bit of patience chain repaired and readjusted all is now well.
With £5.00 spent and about 2.5 hours of my time this was an inexpensive and easy repair.
 
This is not a good design as the guide and slider run at angle to the perpendicular and the adjuster lock screw was not very tight.
If the adjuster is not checked occasionally and the chain becomes loose it can jump the lower sprocket.
If you are lucky, it’s just a simple job to relocate the chain on the sprocket and adjust.
 If you are unlucky, the chain breaks.
Dread to think how much the agent would charge, assuming they would replace the damaged links.  

Hi Guys
Having struggled to find the correct type for the fog lamp bulb for the facelift model, with round fogs, I thought I would stick them on here for info now I've been under the car and popped one out:
Halfords list it incorrectly - anyone need some HB4 (9006) bulbs?
 
Low Beam - H7
High Beam - H9
Side lights - W5W
Fogs - H10 (also called 9145)
 
Hope that helps someone.
 
On the low beam - try HID conversion kits - cheap as chips currently. I paid £12.99 inc delivery
 
Looks like a few of us have tried them!
 
Cheers,
Nev

Hi Folks,
It's my first day here today and before I post my own plea for help - I can help with this one!
I've just fixed my window motor.  I had the same problem with my previous Grand Voyager.
Banging the motor might work for a short while but the problem is that the carbon brushes that touch the commutator of the electric motor have worn down.  (The driver's window is usually the one that gets the most use, so it makes sense that this will wear first.)
I'm sure that a dealer would charge an arm and a leg to replace the whole motor, but the worn brushes will probably cost a couple of quid.  I'm not sure of the price because there's a way to squeeze more life out of them!
Take the door panel off as forster81 has described
.
The next thing to do is to remove the tie wrap from the window motor - it holds one of the cable runs to the motor.  It's fairly easy to release the tie wrap with a small screwdriver to lift the little locking flap where the tie-wrap is poked through itself - that way it can be re-used.
Next you need to use a suitable Torx (if that's how to spell it?!) bit with a socket set to undo the 3 bolts holding the motor to the door.  You might need to use some WD-40 and a Mole-grip to hold the back of the nuts.  It's a little bit fiddly to get a good grip if the nuts are tight.
 
Once you've removed the motor, there are a couple of brass coloured bolts that you can undo with a screwdriver.  These hold the motor together.  Then the housing of the motor armature (the heavy bit with lots of wires wound around it) can be taken off. It will feel weird as it has some powerful magnets built into it.  The top of the armature has a screw thread on it.  As the screw thread comes out of the top housing, the brushes - which are spring loaded - will fill the gap a little.  It's actually this movement that is not enough as the brushes will have worn.  This squeezing together of the brushes will be stopped by the little wire cables that are embedded in the carbon.
 
Before we deal with this, pick up the armature and clean the part that the brushes rub against.  Personally, I use a small screwdriver and clean the carbon deposits out from between the little copper rectangles.  Then I use a small piece of wet&dry or an emery board to gently rub the copper plates until they're nice and shiny.
 
Now, back to the brushes.  You will see that they have little springy pieces of wire that push them in.  Take a photo of them - to help remind you how they fit, and then remove them and put them somewhere safe.
 
To get more life from the brushes, gently flatten the little cables and carefully push the brushes into the centre so that they move further than they did - and the little cables lie flat under the housing.
 
Then screw the armature back into the top.  Move the brushes aside first.  Then refit the little springs for each of the 2 brushes which should hold them against the copper bits that you cleaned.
 
Replace the armature housing - and don't be surprised when the magnet makes it jump into place. Replace the 3 Torx bolts. Refit the tie-wrap. Then refit the door panel.
 
Eventually they'll wear more, and I'll have to find someone to provide replacement brushes, but at the moment, I can open my window with confidence! 

Thanks for the links I'll be sure to read and digest.
So I think I found what the tester was failing the car on. If I yank on the hand brake it goes full travel, as opposed to just a nice normal putting brake on.
Anyway, I'd disconnected the nearside brake and hand a go on my hand brake which now felt normal. I've since replaced the brake cable. Interestingly there's a half inch bolt that needs to come off, this was rusted badly I thought it was going to be a sod to get off. The hardest thing was actually pulling the cable through and out. Haynes suggest a method of using a spanner to compress the locking tabs. My method, use leatherman to snap locking tabs, then pull through. Installation is easy, I used the handbrake to pull the bit with the locking tabs through the hole. To try and do it manually is next to impossible.
Results as follows, hand brake no longer goes full lock. it stops the car rocking when put into Park. When I'm on an incline I need 2 or 3 extra clicks to stop it rolling away. However there's still something not quite right, I may bite the bullet and put a new cable on the offside. The bit that's not quite right is that when I get my extra clicks in, I'm very close to running out of travel. As I get 10 days for a retest, I may put it in as is and go from there.

I'm sure this is way too late but for future reference on the forum - Pentagon Chrysler in Barnsley, Yorkshire, have a very helpful parts department. I have just had the water and air con pipes from them, which run from under the drivers foot area to the 2 rear coils, heater and AC, supplied in 2 days, all 4 aluminium pipes £165.00!!!
Would not suggest a delivery as they are so massively long, one from breakers arrived bent in half, not much good.
Complete sod to fit though!
And I have also done the pair of coolant pipes from behind engine on the bulkhead running down to meet these new pipes, leaking due to corrosion under the drivers foot area.
Also a sod to do!

back seat normal only go flat back wards
play station are you pressing the AUX on remote 

Haynes Repair Manual,  number 30014.
DODGE Grand Caravan
CHRYSLER Town & Country
2008 thru 2012
includes Caravan Cargo
 
This manual will give most of the imformation required to repair your UK model.
The biggest fault with the manual is that the 2.8 Diesel Engine option is not covered.
3.3 - 3.6 - 3.8 and 4.0 litre V6 petrol engines covered 

@@JMCC Hi mine was a easy fix in the end that the 40amp fuse needed a good clean - the fuse itself and the socket itself. Since this both the seat, memory and volume are working as normal. Let me know how it goes and hope this works for you as well

water pump
after a run jack car as high as poss and look from rear engine upwards if wet around
not too bad to do and europarts was cheapest £23 
you don't need to undo engine mount as some say just pry over

holts make most chrysler paints a local diy store even carrys it so have a look

by any chance does it go off after a few days of dry weather
if so front wheels off and take off the plastic inner arches  2 screws and a few plastic pull off plastic pins
top rear on body work theres a wire connector from wheels sensor  
clean it check and solder wires if needed 
clean the ring with the humps in just behind the front wheel bearing / disk this is abs wheel sensor 
this has stopped mine coming on  

try the connectors front from the sensor wire to main car wireing its in wheel arch top forward just behind plastic arch body a few pull off fixers and two screws clean and refit has maded mine work for some time

i posted this a few years ago on another forum of my 3.3 voyager wiring loom.
This loom melted on the right hand side corner of the the rear cylinder head.
If your suffering from a missfire or loss of power its well worth checking this.
 
I actually repair this loom and years on its still working.
 
I hope this helps someone out.
 

Nope not the neighbors night in but from the upper dashboard/tip of the screen area.
I changed the anti roll bar bushes a week ago and after a few days there was a knocking again, gutted i thought maybe id placed the bushes a little off or something.
I spent the best part of a day re positioning the bushes lobe up and down no effect still banging, went over the whole front suspension checking for play and all good but still the knocking persisted.
Medium knock over loose ground which then gets very heavy knock on say a small pothole like somethings going to give.
Finally removed the wiper mechanism and scuttle and was instantly greeted by the nut and shaft of the front right shock absorber , it had burst through the suspension top mount penetrated the underside of the wiper scuttle (unseen when together) and was in direct contact with the mounting nuts hence the heavy knocking. 
Totally unexpected and after replacing the bushes assumed it was something id done, anyone else had it? genuine top mount but how old is anyone's guess the car is a 2.5 crd with 144k on the clock.

http://en.chrysler-club.net/manuals.php?kols=4
 
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Official_Owner_Manuals/

the guage is a caliper that measures internal one side and external on the other.simply set the gauge to inside dia of the rear hub then using the other side pass over the shoes and adjust handbrake until it just touches as you pass gauge over.This needs to be top and bottom centre of the shoes.

If anybody is interested ive solved the problem. it turned out to be a loose wire to the plug that connects to the blower resistor.