blackvelvet

when you shift into reverse gear. the sensors in the rear bumper 2 each side, cause lights to appear in the rear of the ca,r if you are within 6 ft of an obstacle. At 6 feet the light should show yellow, as you get nearer to the obstacle the yellow lights increase in number,. when the yellow lights go out and red light shows on it's own, that is as close as you want to get.

P1685-SKIM SYSTEM INVALID SECRET KEY IN EEPROM When Monitored: With the ignition on. Set Condition: The ECM detects an internal mismatch of the secret key code when performing an internal EEPROM check. P0403 - EGR CONTROL CIRCUIT When Monitored: Engine running. Battery voltage greater than 10 volts. Set Condition: The EGR solenoid control circuit is not in the expected state when requested to operate by the PCM. One Trip Fault.

Gordy is right, look for the simple answers first. Garage nearby couldn't find a no start fault on a Vauxhall. Sold the owner another car. I bet it was nothing.

OBD 111 is a system to backup OBD11 to ensure that the motorist gets the repairs detected by OBD 11, done in good time, Satellites and roadside monitors [ police] can read codes, and has been tested in bumper to bumper traffic at 100 MPH. The monitor can pick out the car with a code on it's computer and it's VIN and any other information needed. The owner can then be issued with a ticket with a time limit for repairs, and if neccessary a court appearance and fine if the repairs are not carried out within the time limit. The system has been tested in California since 1994, and will soon be law. Dont expect to get an OBD 111 reader soon!!!!!!

https://www.obd-codes.com/u0101

P1685 SKIM SYSTEM INVALID SECRET KEY IN EEPROM P1685 SKIM SYSTEM WRITE ACCESS TO EEPROM FAILURE P0100 MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR P 0620 GENERATOR BATTERY FLOW These are the codes, What are the syptoms? Try the battery disconnect. QuintQ wrote this "SKIM is your immobiliser or Smart Key Immobilizer Module, the code is in the BCM."

http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html

Amazing trip computer showed 31 MPG in reality 26 MPG none of it adds up.

Stephen don't look for the complicated things first. Does it pull violently to the left? or just a slight pull. Has it just started doing it? Have you checked the obvious.....tyre pressure... uneven tread wear on the tyre....brake pad binding, it doesn't need much. Is the steering wheel in the correct position when you drive straight, could be simple toe in, Check the left hand track rod. Change the tyres around, left to right, see if that alters things, I've seen cars change road control drastically by just putting good tyres on. Do the front tyres have the same tread pattern? Jack up the front left wheel and feel for play in the suspension. could be a loose wheel bearing. The ABS light could be anything if it is on and off. My ABS comes on occasionally, not for long, then it goes off, could be days in between this happening, it doesnt mean anything, when it stays on then you need to check it. If you start looking for major problems before checking the obvious it will cost you a fortune.

My main consideration was the trip computer readout. It reads 35 MPG and in reality I was getting 22MPG, I have 2 Cadillacs one at 7.5 litre and one at 8 litre. Driving with a light foot is obligatory for me and my wife. I dont think 22 MPG is bad if you consider I live in the Welsh mountains, and most of the local roads are narrow. I just don't understand the trip computer readout.

What colour are the loose wires? I will take a look at my GV tomorrow. I can also look at the wiring diagram.

thanks Andy, Love your thermstat tip, and video by the way.

Can anyone tell me? If I get the car on stands, how accessible is the oil filter at the back of the block? 2.8 diesel

Interestiing that it only happens at idle. Something loose. Make a stethoscope from some plumbing tube and try to pinpoint it. The noise will get louder as you put the tube nearer to it. Is it front of engine / rear..... Left or right hand side. Top or bottom. Check the pulleys for tightness. Is the exhaust to engine connection tight.

Check the obvious. Put the front wheels on the back, run the car and see if there is a difference. Put the spare on each wheel at a time run the car, see if it changes anything. Be careful at speed with a space saver. tyres usually vibrate at a certain speed. And pass through the imbalance. When you rev the engine when moving you put whatever is vibrating under load. When you take your foot off the gas it is free to vibrate again. Try the same speed in different gears, does it still vibrate. Make notes of everything. If the vibration occurs at the same speed. something is out of balance. If it was a mechanical fault it would get worse the faster you go.

If the glass is fastened to a plastic backing plate it can be removed. the backing plates sometimes slot over small tabs. If your's is broken remove the glass carefully and take a look. Wear goggles the mirror glass can splinter.

I remember reading somewhere about this problem. The recommended advice was....disconnect the battery for about 20 mins, make sure it's got a good charge, then reconnect battery. Like a lot of digital gear this is the cure.. power off leave for a few mins power on. Make sure you have a radio code!!!

My thermostat arrived today Mon. I will fit it tomorrow and see the result. I have 2 Cadillacs and a Chevy van, the heaters are hot enough to poach eggs. Yank vehicles are never poor heaters. I hope this solves the Voyager problem.

Filled the tank Sunday, drove like a tw#t, stopped started often while the old ball and chain did her running. Filled it monday 24 MPG. gauge was still way off the mark, but I got 2 MPG more while not being very light footed. There must be a moral. Phoned a main dealer, they never heard of such a problem.

I've not been impressed with the way the battery is being charged on my Grand Voyager. Here is a practical and easy way to alter it -- no messing with the alternator. 1) Measurements over time indicated that initial alternator voltage after starting was 13.9volt. This dropped to 13.4 after a few minutes. This was consistent over time, and results in the battery being consistently under charged for most modern batteries. Measurements were done on a professional "Fluke" digital multimeter. Trust me, it's accurate. 2) Since most batteries sold over the counter are either lead-acid-calcium, or lead-acid-calcium-calcium, these type of batteries are undercharged at the above alternator voltages. Possibly these voltages are intended for some other type of battery. Fortunately, there is an easy way to raise the charge voltage to 14.4volt without over stressing anything, as the design of the system is intended to do this -- I refer to the maker's own design here, not mine. 14.4volt is the 'old' charging voltage as used to be. It consists of inserting a 33K0 (33,000ohm) half or one watt simple carbon film type resistor (worth about 10p.) in series with the live 5volt lead to the "cold battery sensor" mounted under the battery tray. On my GV, the leads are easily accessible coming out from under the battery tray, and on mine are colored blue and brown. The blue is the earthy one, the brown is the 'live' at around 5volt. I just used a small connector block to do the job. The circuit is "dead" at ign. off, there's no need to disconnect anything. Cut the brown lead, strip back and insert into a small connector block of the 2A. type. Fit the 33K0 resistor on the other side of the connector block so the resistor becomes in series with the brown lead. Caution: These colors are on MY diesel GV., they MAY be different on yours! But the sensor is easy to find, just slip your hand under the battery tray. Explanation:-- The voltage used to charge any type of lead-acid battery is crucially important even down to a few tenths of a volt. Types of lead acid batteries: "Wet" type: The acid is visible and can be topped up with distilled water. These were charged at 14.4volt from the alternator in the old days by a regulator either inside or outside the alternator. Wet batteries are rare on domestic cars nowadays. "Sealed" type: Or sometimes called no-maintenance. The proper charge voltage here is anybody's guess. Some are vented, some aren't. Some only vent under pressure by blowing out a rubber plug. They work by catalyzing the hydrogen and oxygen produced under gassing back to water. Thusly the SG (specific gravity) of the acid comes back to 1.28 at full charge. "Calcium" type: The positive lead dioxide grid is laced with about 1% of calcium. This improves the self-discharge condition markedly. "Calcium-calcium" type. Both the positive lead dioxide grid AND the spongy lead negative plates are calcium laced, reducing the self-discharge condition even more. Both the calcium types are advised by the battery manufacturers to be charged at a higher voltage, 14.8 to 15volt is advised for calcium-calcium types, 14.5 for calcium types. The alternator is not controlled the "old" way by a separate or included regulator. Nowadays, and certainly on Chrysler motors, the field/rotor current to the slip rings is provided by the microprocessor system, and is pulse-width-modulated to control the effective current to the rotor. Therefore, altering the cold-battery sensor to improve the charging voltage does not make either the alternator or the charge-control system do anything it wasn't intended to do in the original design. In this design, if the sensor (which is a simple -ve. temp. coefficient resistor) goes o/c, the micro defaults to exactly 14volt. And it does, I've measured it. It's crucially important to get the charge voltage right for the type of lead-acid battery you have fitted -- it's not "fit and forget". If you don't get the charge voltage right, the result will be a short battery life, made worse by short-trips. Add to that the parasitic battery drain, and you have the dreaded "heavy-click" no-start when you come to use the car after a few days rest. Finally, there is a new type of lead-acid battery coming. It's a lead-carbon containing a supercapacitor built in. They are already being called "supercabatteries". It is said they are capable of thousands of charge-discharge cycle.

qinteq is spot on with this. Connect a volt meter to a glow plug, and when the light goes out you will see voltage for a bit longer.

If it takes time to start the engine, there is fuel build up and this will manifest in a small amount of "exhaust crud". Operating the glow plugs twice warms the engine more,thats fine but it points to a minor problem somewhere. Probably the glow plugs failing, or are you in an area of exceptionally low temperatures?

Sounds like a starter issue. Check connections for tightness, check voltage at the battery and then check voltage on the pos lead at the starter connection and starter ground, they should be the same, any significant volts drop replace the leads. Perform a current draw on the battery when turning the starter. Too much current draw, sort the starter.

The only real cure is to cut it out and weld in a patch. Otherwise grind as much out as possible coat with curerust or similar and fill with fibreglass. Should last for a while.

1651 cooling fan no 1 relay presume it's failed, check all conections especially ground.