blackvelvet

Underneath the Voyager are a four metal pipes. One is feed from the diesel tank to the underfloor heater, one is exhaust for it to purge burnt fuel and the other 2 are water send and return. They cost mega bucks to replace, even second hand. The water pipes do rust, and can spring a leak. I have cut both of these pipes leaving enough metal to fit rubber heater hose.Works well. Time will tell.

Does anyone know if the cabin heater tubes under the voyager can be cut, and rubber heater hoses attached instead?

Both sides can go at the same time, but as above, clean the reluctor wheel. If the fault persists, chech the new sensor.

Check here also. Most parts for the Voyager are the same as Chrysler Town and Country Rock auto.com Rock also take the VAT at source, so shipping is quick. i.e. No customs

Disconnect the battery for a short time, clear the memory. Reconnect and drive the car the way you normally do. Shift the gears manually when it gets warm. You should feel the changees.

Hi Andy Great vid. You have obviously gone to a lot of trouble with this. I hope evryone views it and responds kindly.

Thanks for both replies Andy. I thought the diagram told me that the fuse for fuel heater is also fuel pump. I will check again tomorrow. My car has been starting fairly well since I returned from Bolton. Of course the weather is warmer, so I don't believe Bolton is to blame. However, when the engine is running,I notice the RPM doesn't change at all when I shift to drive from park. and vice versa. Do you know where the pump is located? is it in the tank? My manual says it is in front of the rear axle. 2006 2.8 Thanks Mate

I watched Andy's youtube vid on glowplug removal. I also watched autoshaman vid, both seemed quite simple...... arkwardness notwithstanding. Has anyone ever had a glowplug shear off and is it common ? I'm guessing my coldstart is glowplugs, because easystart works well.

SJ Why did the battery stop turning the engine over?

What I find strange FROG the fuse also serves the fuel pump. So how can the fuse be disconnected? unless someone has found the path of the cable and diverted the power to the pump from somewhere else.. If so it could lead to major problems finding out exactly where.

Thanx for that frog. Here is somthing that may be of interest to anyone having elec problems. I am going to order one when i get back home....£170 on Amazon Power Probe ECT2000 Short Open Circuit Detector

Got home. The car started using easystart, stumbled about for a bit then it warmed up and ran OK. I think the fuel may have been air locked, and the battery didn't have enough to start in the cold. I am in Bolton at the moment and it is freezing. After using the car for half an hour, I left it to cool down. 2 hours later I went to it, there was ice on the windows and the doors were stuck. I know other people have got worse weather, but i have never been this cold for years. Took a few turns but it started. the new battery is priceless. I am guessing the car has a cold start issue. Does anyone know if it has a glow plug relay?.... I cant believe all the glows have failed at the same time. This has been a comedy of errors. The lesson learned is don't assume it is only one problem. These vehicles need a good battery. I have found a guy on my doorstep in Abergele, Tayma Batteries, he sells American batteries, not cheap, but they will definately be up to the job. I am convinced that most starting problems are battery related, even if the battery appears to be good. I hope to use the car tomorrow and it will probably be easystart, it's freezing here. What I have learned about the fuel heater fuse is, it also powers the fuel pump in the tank.

Hi everyone. My problem was an easy one as far as the fuse is concerned. The fuel heater had been disconnected and the cable were wrapped in insulation tape, then pushed up behind the radiator. The tape had rotted off and the cable was shorting on the chassis. The fuel heater fuse is also the fuel pump fuse. Now that that is sorted. the car still won,t start without a blast of easystart. All the turning over has also flattened the battery. I just went out and purchased a new bigger battery, I will now have to do some surgery to make the battery fit the tray. I am hoping the fuel line has an air lock, i will know tonight. when I get home.

I just got this problem too. Drove from Wales to Bolton on Fri. Saturday morning the car started, ran for a few seconds then stalled. The fuse for the fuel heater had blown. Unfortunately, no tools. I called the AA they somehow got the car running, and I used it all day Sat. Sunday morning the same issue as above. Fuse blown. Called the AA again but this time the guy couldn't start the car, the fuse kept blowing. I guess the fuel heater wiring has a short circuit. I'm stuck in Bolton for exams and no Chrysler. I have a mobile electrical guy coming tomorrow. If he finds the fault, I will post it. Meanwhile if anyone can shed a light on this problem it will be a great help. I've printed Andy's post for the auto electrician.

I just got this problem too. Drove from Wales to Bolton on Fri. Saturday morning the car started, ran for a few seconds then stalled. The fuse for the fuel heater had blown. Unfortunately, no tools. I called the AA they somehow got the car running, and I used it all day Sat. Sunday morning the same issue as above. Fuse blown. Called the AA again but this time the guy couldn't start the car, the fuse kept blowing. I guess the fuel heater wiring has a short circuit. I'm stuck in Bolton for exams and no Chrysler. I have a mobile electrical guy coming tomorrow. If he finds the fault, I will post it. Meanwhile if anyone can shed a light on this problem it will be a great help. I've printed Andy's post for the auto electrician.

The problem with my Voyager is now solved. If you look at my previous post ...Chrysler stall..... and you get the same or similar symptoms. Here is the solution. The battery had gone a bit flat after trying to start the car a few times. This caused all the weird elec problems. The battery in these vehicles has to be the correct model or of equal capacity and type. The actual stall and no start was caused a minor leal in the fuel system. I primed the pump till it felt rigid, the car started and I drove it to the local garage. The problem would likely happen again if the car is left to stand for any length of time. If you read the first post and you get any of these electrical symptoms, no matter how odd and perplexing they seem. Check the battery first. I will try and find out what the battery type and system is. I know ordinary batteries work ok, but as soon as they lose a bit of charge, GRRR!

Thanks Mike I will check the drain off. I made another discovery today. The battery measured just 12 volts. I jumped the car with a new battery, the instrument lights all came on as normal no hesitation. However the stereo auto changer went mad clicking away like a loon. This may be because the battery has been disconnected for a few hours. I didn't try to start the car, I will tomorrow. when I put a fully charged battery on. The existing battery is still quite new though, about a year old.

Thanks for the imput BigNev The problem seems to be in the ECM just next to the battery tray. The electrics are doing inexplicable tricks. We have had horrendous rain over the last couple of weeks. I am going to pull all the fuses and relays from there and dry it out, if it is wet of course. If it does any good I will post the result for someone else to use.

Thanks Mike the light don't come on now when I switch the ignition on, thats something at least. I opened the fuse box on the int power module and looked for relevent fuses. The first fuse I tried to pull was the PCM... as I pulled it up the engine turned over...ign off. This caused the alarm to start and it refused to go off untill I disconnected the battery. Does this indicate a problem in the IPM. i.e. should pulling the fuse cause the engine to turn over with the ign switch off?

Thanks AD Just went out to the car again. Turned ignition on.. no warning lights for a few seconds, then they turned on but this time the headlights did not turn on....but sadly the heater did. If I turn the heater off and switch the ignition on, the heater turns itself on again. When I turn the key to start the battery now appears to be flat again. Fuel is good and the key is the same one. The code reader that I have indicates no codes. We have had a lot of rain here. i live in the Welsh mountains.

Update on the above. Charged the battery fully. Turned ignition on....no dash warning lights, but the headlights / sidelights came on, with the light switch off. Turned ignition switch off, then on again. Dash light then illuminated headlight / sidelights did not come on. Still no start.

2006 2.8 Grand Voyager Started the car today drove 10 yards and engine stalled. Wont start again...... turns over nicely but no start. I notice the dash warning lights are also slow to light up when I turn ignition switch to run. Don't know if this is related. Charged the battery in case but still the same problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

https://www.dgtech.com/common-trouble-codes/ this site is helpful, but you do need codes.

Have you done the key jig?

Therin may be the problem. I put a new battery on mine when I bought it. The old one seemed OK, but simple things like folding mirrors all started working, there were other issues but they all cleared. The battery is an essential part of things these days, even has a sensor underneath for temp.