Penguin2007

I had a similar problem to this with my Delta diesel.
Garage said I was not doing mileage during pandemic ......
Eventually replaced battery with an uprated unit.
Took into garage - put onto computer checker and battery good, but was drying before their eyes 14.71 .... 14.XXX etc
Error code came back to the clutch system!  
Elaboration: I have size big feet. In the intervening weeks when having this problem, I had somehow 'kicked / nudged / moved' a make break switch on the clutch pedal. There is no warning light - but it throws up an error code. Effectively there was a closed circuit draining the battery.
Remedy: Replace the switch* above the clutch pedal and then fabricate a 'box' to prevent it being nudged.
The *switch was ok looking from outside - but refused to open / close on examination. Stupid place for a switch was the mechanics commentary.
Has worked now for 18 months without any further problems.
 
Hope this maybe of use
 
 

Thanks Mike,
 
I have a sneaking suspicion mine were still original. I suppose I cant complain at 7 years and nearly 60k. Front inner pads were heavily worn, the outers still had a bit of life in them. Rears will probably need doing in the next few months but look OK for now.
 
I noticed there were two different sizes for the pads when browsing online, so took some dimensions before ordering. I also noticed some sets of pads only have the wear sensor on one side, mine has them on both, so passed that on to my local parts store as well.

mine is 3864 - you don't know my reg plate - so I'm happy putting it on here.

Plastics degrade with age & thermal stress.
 
Remember they wizzes around at a great rate of knots - yours by implication is at least 16 / 17 years old (2019 - 2003), so it has had a good life.
 
Once one blade is shed - it may well catch another blade and knock it - damaging the T connecting it to the disc / hub ... etc etc
 
 
Don't be tempted to fit a metal fan if it was a plastic one - as they have the suicidal tendencies of costing you a new radiator as well. 
 
Kind regards
 
Penguin

no

Glad to be of help - ps ordinary bulbs now last a long time and are far cheaper than LEDs and the associated cabling / transformers / additional bits!!  A couple of extra fish for my supper or beers for you! :-))

As you have changed the specification of the car - your insurance may not be valid. I would be extremely careful. The Police could if they felt really bolshy say that its a modification - check insurance - not valid and have your car off you!
 
There was an article in 'Dear John' or on 'BBc radio 5 Mr (midnight) Mechanic' within the last few months. Maybe just before clocks went back ..... pedantic but, if you needs to be safe and wants use of car, I would seek alternative sources of info first.

Bravo springs are equivalents
 
Penguin 2007

I have not yet had to do this repair, but on my Tipo, LEDs constantly flipped, as well as the odometer mileage LED strips failing.....
 
When you get to the 'I have got you nearly out of the pub stage', there may be identifying marks on the LED.
 
Sometimes it is on the LED plastic itself (rare - but on older types), else it is on the stem of the LED metal shaft.
 
You may find further information on the wiring schematic in the handbook.
 
When / if you remove - note / check the polarity of the LED, bimp, bump, cutaway on LED plastic etc.
 
Penguin

Please see my comments in:
 
 
Pot Hole Society - Newest Member 
They can manufacture a spring for you.
 
I had bravo springs fitted and they appear to be ok
 
 
Have been told to hit speed humos with one side full on, and then alternative side next time. Not to straddle as this causes the springs to break and also the inside shoulder of the tyre to wear disproportionately.
 
Penguin

the pollen filter has supposedly to be changed (have 30k miles on clock)in next service.
 
Is this under the rhd pedals?
Or in LHD footwell?
 
Thanks in advance
 
 
Sniffles coming on ... needs to attend to my smaller grade particles...
 
 
Penguin

Hi Mikey
 
Bought via a Fiat (box) car shifter in Northamptonshire.
 
There is a Chrysler Jeep dealership in Northampton, and if computer codes have to be read, thats where they take it on a low loader.
 
(My car it transpires is an ex-Fiat management car run out of Fiat city in the southland of the Oxfordshire area....)
 
 
Luckily, the little black cable spoke clear italien to the English USA computer and ... well it got sorted.
 
Penguin

Did you solve this?

Oil should be runny and off brown.
 
When was last fluids service? Check service history in handbook??
 
Black indicates carbon deposits being put into oil.
Thick black would make me a little worried.
 
 
mpg - depends very much on how you drive .... but ....
 
https://www.carkeys.co.uk/review-archive/chrysler-grand-voyager-2-8-crd-executive-xs
 
say about ....  the best the trip computer showed was 29.1mpg (real life driving by the looks of it)
 
 
http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/chrysler/grand-voyager/estate-2001/36929/
 
say about ........ 33mpg (probably the hypothetical value that all companies use)
 
Feels like you should have it back to the seller and get him to give it a once over ....
Service? Sale of goods - fit for purpose.... etc etc
etc etc
 
Penguin

hi Glen
 
One may need the use of the 'Trading Standards' book of words here.
 
If they merely clean up a connection, it would not be construed as a 'change of parts' or is it?
 
If they have put on a new connector, this is a change of the original wiring - and would be classed as a new part.
 
(According to the man with the pint in the pub chat from TS).
 
 
So, it may be worth re-asking them as to what they had completed in the previous repair. It should state clearly on the job ticket, if its a main dealer (or Garageman of repute). You state Chrysler Hailsham.
 
A garage would normally give you some time limit on your repair ticket also - again check paperwork.
 
Good luck!
 
Penguin
 
 

 

Engine mounts and gearbox mounts are usually cast iron?
 
Photo 1 is / appears as a cast unit.
 
Photo 2 appears as a weld
 
Penguin

Hi Paulook
 
Any (shaken / stirred / whizzed) water in any oil = emulsion....
 
Try
To olive oil (or any variant in the kitchen) add some water and blitz with a (hand / machine) whisk. = emulsion....
 
-> Salad cream (if you use vinegar, and eggs as well), stabilisers are used in commercial products.
 
Cooling
Don't know about the major details of oil pump cooling, but as it is contained in the engine, heat must radiate from the working oil through the engine casing, sump and oil filter. As well as the cooling effects of the water jacket around the engine as well.
 
Just a point of info ... is the engine oil coming out of the dip stick hole? or the engine filler hole?
If so, it could it be over filled?
 
 
 to find oil coming from my overflow tank on my rad is probably as first diagnosed
 
P

Classic blown cylinder head gasket symptoms
 

 
Penguin