ben

I still pop in every now and again
By downloads, I assume you meant attachment uploads? This was set at a max total of 5MB before - I've changed that to 50MB now, so you should be good to go!

I know it's been a while (a very long while) - but I got hold of the latest software version, so here you all go!

My bad, the license on one of the components ran out (but didn't alert me!) 

My bad, the license on one of the components ran out (but didn't alert me!) 

We're really glad you did, but we do wonder how you stumbled upon us?
 
Please let us know, as it's useful so we can see which methods are working and which aren't

One year ago, we started off - it took us a while to gain some traction, and whilst we aren't still the sprawling hub of activity we could be - we're getting there
 
So thanks everyone for taking part - and HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHRYSLERFORUM!

http://en.chrysler-club.net/manuals.php?kols=4
 
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Official_Owner_Manuals/

Remember though, you may not need a garage - post up any problems in our Ypsilon section and someone might be able to solve it for you

The blue smoke is from burning engine oil. Could be worn Turbo spindle bearing and seals causing oil to be pumped into the exhaust. Worn piston rings general engine wear. Worst case is dieseling on your lubricating oil when the turbo spindle is worn and lubricating oil is being pumped into the compressed air scroll and into the combustion chamber. Eventually all of the lubricating oil is consumed as fuel and the engine siezes.
 
White smoke could be unburnt diesel or coolant. Could be a damaged fuel injector, fault with injector timing or DPF (if you have one). Knowing how most people don't know how to look after a VM diesel engine, I reckon it is probably a coolant problem, cracked head or failed head gasket.
 
A VM turbo diesel needs at least 30 seconds of idling after starting to ensure good oil pressure is on the turbo spindle bearings before driving.
It also needs at least a minute of idling before switching off to allow the turbo to slow down and cool down with oil pressure on the spindle bearing. If the car has just done a high speed journey or been driven hard to get high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) it will need longer idling to cool down, 3 minutes or more. Today you won't find any manufacturer say this is necessary, but if you do this from new with any turbo diesel engine you are likely to have fewer problems with cracked heads, failed gaskets, failed turbos or dieseling on your lubricating oil.

Well looks like I've gone and done it, now the proud owner of a 2008 4th Gen Grand Voyager Executive XS. Only flashing warning lights and bits falling off at random intervals can stop me now

Hi Rob, what model car do you have?

Many thanks Ben that clears it up, it looks as if it's a gen 4 i'm looking at then but no complaints it's still a beast of a car

We're really glad you did, but we do wonder how you stumbled upon us?
 
Please let us know, as it's useful so we can see which methods are working and which aren't

To keep things a bit more simple, the Grand Voyager and Voyager sections have been merged together.
 
For the older generation Voyagers, they now have their own subforums inside the main Voyager one (with the current model being the root).
 
Should make things much easier for people now, and much simpler to find your specific model

Hey Mark, welcome welcome!

Hello and welcome to the site!
 
I've moved your message to the voyager section where it should be more visible :-)

Hey Ron and welcome to the forums, hope we can be of assistance!

Hi Pat,
 
Welcome to the nuthouse
 
some folk reckon the timing belt should be changed every 100,000 + miles, others 60,000 / 4 years - myself, I would play safe and do it at 60,000 and don't forget to do the water pump as well.
 
Trev

Hi and welcome to the site :-)

Hi Folks,
It's my first day here today and before I post my own plea for help - I can help with this one!
I've just fixed my window motor.  I had the same problem with my previous Grand Voyager.
Banging the motor might work for a short while but the problem is that the carbon brushes that touch the commutator of the electric motor have worn down.  (The driver's window is usually the one that gets the most use, so it makes sense that this will wear first.)
I'm sure that a dealer would charge an arm and a leg to replace the whole motor, but the worn brushes will probably cost a couple of quid.  I'm not sure of the price because there's a way to squeeze more life out of them!
Take the door panel off as forster81 has described
.
The next thing to do is to remove the tie wrap from the window motor - it holds one of the cable runs to the motor.  It's fairly easy to release the tie wrap with a small screwdriver to lift the little locking flap where the tie-wrap is poked through itself - that way it can be re-used.
Next you need to use a suitable Torx (if that's how to spell it?!) bit with a socket set to undo the 3 bolts holding the motor to the door.  You might need to use some WD-40 and a Mole-grip to hold the back of the nuts.  It's a little bit fiddly to get a good grip if the nuts are tight.
 
Once you've removed the motor, there are a couple of brass coloured bolts that you can undo with a screwdriver.  These hold the motor together.  Then the housing of the motor armature (the heavy bit with lots of wires wound around it) can be taken off. It will feel weird as it has some powerful magnets built into it.  The top of the armature has a screw thread on it.  As the screw thread comes out of the top housing, the brushes - which are spring loaded - will fill the gap a little.  It's actually this movement that is not enough as the brushes will have worn.  This squeezing together of the brushes will be stopped by the little wire cables that are embedded in the carbon.
 
Before we deal with this, pick up the armature and clean the part that the brushes rub against.  Personally, I use a small screwdriver and clean the carbon deposits out from between the little copper rectangles.  Then I use a small piece of wet&dry or an emery board to gently rub the copper plates until they're nice and shiny.
 
Now, back to the brushes.  You will see that they have little springy pieces of wire that push them in.  Take a photo of them - to help remind you how they fit, and then remove them and put them somewhere safe.
 
To get more life from the brushes, gently flatten the little cables and carefully push the brushes into the centre so that they move further than they did - and the little cables lie flat under the housing.
 
Then screw the armature back into the top.  Move the brushes aside first.  Then refit the little springs for each of the 2 brushes which should hold them against the copper bits that you cleaned.
 
Replace the armature housing - and don't be surprised when the magnet makes it jump into place. Replace the 3 Torx bolts. Refit the tie-wrap. Then refit the door panel.
 
Eventually they'll wear more, and I'll have to find someone to provide replacement brushes, but at the moment, I can open my window with confidence! 

got it done - very fiddly job. Not sure if I did it right but it worked and everyone went back together fine.
 
if anyone else interested;
 
1. remove triangle plastic cover from inside rear of window by prising it towards front of car.
2. remove the two torx screws holding the cover that fits over the inside door handle.
3. once this is prised off there is another torx screw to remove which fixes the plastic decorative door panel to the door.
4. the door panel should then prise away from a whole series of press studs that hold it in place.
5. there were two electric connectors to separate just inside the handle mounting to remove the panel completely.
6. there is then another smaller metal panel to remove. i firstly removed all the hex head bolts from around the edges using a 10 mm socket. I think there were around 12 of these.
7. at this point the door panel came away enough but I couldn't see how to get it to come completely off. there is some kind of connecting bracket to towards the rear of the panel that I could see but not access. There is another hex head bolt that goes through the door further back and I wondered if this was the final fix but wasn't confident to remove this one in case it was for something else.
8. anyway it didn't matter as with the window up and the door panel loose enough to pull slightly away and down, it is possible with a long socket extension to access the 8mm hex head bolts that hold the handle in place from the inside.
9. this part was fiddly. there are two bolts toward the front and one towards the back. there was also some tape to remove over one of the access holes.
10. There is also the pull cable to remove. this unsnaps from a slot and then the ball end of the cable can be twisted to come out of its retainer. its hard to see but you can see how it attaches by looking at new handle. i also got my son to shine a light behind the door panel but its a bit awkward to have someone else there as there is not a lot of room. if you trace this cable it will help to undo other end to give some slack to play with. at other end, there is a little black to unclip to get to cable ends and the end just prises out. 
11. new handle fits by sliding back portion into door first and then rotating front. 
12. fit the ball end of pull cable first and then pull cable back to snap it into position.
13. refit everything in reverse and should be fine.
 
hope that helps someone else who might be looking to do this.

Yes you could use the full workshop manuals ranging from 82-2009, and in particular the diesel manual

Does this help?
 
Replacing Front Fog Light
 
Reach behind the front fascia from under the vehicle. Twist the front fog light bulb to remove from the fog light module. Disconnect the electrical connector and replace the bulb.  

Hi,
 
Im almost certain it will be the suspension top mount.
 
If you pop the bonnet, and look in the top right hand corner where the plastic grill is (right at the bottom of the windscreen). Look through the grill and you will see the suspension turret top mount.
 
They're pretty straight forward to replace. You can remove the plastic trim to get to the top strut mounting bolts. Then you need to remove the 2 mounting bolts that hold the strut to the hub carrier, disconnect the drop link and then remove the whole strut from the car.
 
Safely compress the spring using spring compressors and remove the top mount.
 
Obviously safety is critical here, as compressing suspension springs can be VERY dangerous, so if you haven't done it before, its best to take it to a garage. I replaced the top mount on mine a while ago and it was around £55 for the parts.
 
Hope that helps,
Alan

Both went on the same day - are you sure you have not switched them off at the dimmer switch ? - the RHS vertical one ?
 
 http://i.imgur.com/lGdb2Iu.png