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  1. Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)
    8 points
  2. vincey832

    Hi! I'm Back!

    Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.
    4 points
  3. Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!
    4 points
  4. soulie147

    Known Issues And Faults

    Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!
    4 points
  5. You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.
    3 points
  6. ForzaLancia

    Looking To Buy

    Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!
    3 points
  7. Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!
    3 points
  8. vincey832

    Hi! I'm Back!

    My Saturday was full on....
    3 points
  9. Lampard

    New Delta Owner

    Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.
    3 points
  10. 7up

    Sexy

    flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.
    3 points
  11. Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.
    3 points
  12. Dorian

    Delta Active Suspension

    Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg
    3 points
  13. Josboogz

    Sump Plug And Washer

    Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps
    3 points
  14. Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible
    3 points
  15. gordy

    Self Bleeding Brakes?

    May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....
    3 points
  16. Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x
    3 points
  17. Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.
    3 points
  18. So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!
    3 points
  19. https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email
    3 points
  20. This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....
    3 points
  21. BarryScott

    Dash warning chimes

    Mine is also odd. Whenever I open the door to get in it says: 'You will regret buying this car. Wait until you see how soon the battery will go flat'' Then when getting out it says: "Phew, we made it. THIS time!".
    2 points
  22. Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on
    2 points
  23. Hi Richard, Welcome! Others will probably stop by and help, hopefully my memory of these beasts will help, sadly I no longer have my own. So this is one that has cropped up from time to time quite often. It's also a problem I had on my old CGV (The second one I owned). Same thing, it's a warm start problem and it's very repeatable as you describe. My suspicion though is it was mechanical. When hot there is expansion in most components, and in my thinking it's down to poor compression why it won't start. It just turns over and over, it occasionally tries to catch but then dies (If you listen carefully to the engine you can hear it almost catch then immediately fail and back to starter motor just spinning the engine). If I still had mine I'd be starting to look at the cylinder head gasket or even cylinder rings getting worn and loosing compression when hot. Once engine is running it sort of self-heals as it's not as noticeable but when starting that's when you need it most. BUT after all that, sensors also deteriorate when hot so your thinking of swapping sensors is logical. My first thoughts would be the PRV on end of the diesel rail, the crank and speed sensors too, one by one is sensible here. All of those can affect the startup and are also sensors very prone to temperature related failures. On the radio/CD you should be fine fitting. You'll need the code from the old one though. The codes are normally stored in the ECU and 'pair' when they connect up, fitting a different unit I suspect will trigger the need to enter the code, which if you don't have the original manual/code doc for the donor car might not work, but I'd say give it a go. I recall that relay you mention but cannot for the life of me remember it's function. I'll see if I can find out! Cheers, Andy
    2 points
  24. maxcaddy

    Front Suspension

    Okay, carried on and prised out the Bush, it had to come out one way or another, and with that out the sub frame was lowered and the Arm came out. Old Bush off, new one on, well on once I spent a long time cleaning the inside of it out of over-rubberisation (note to self - do not but cheap eBay replacement parts), and now all back together . Now to address the other thing it failed on, smoky engine bay .
    2 points
  25. maxcaddy

    The End

    In the past if you stuck something in a garage/barn for 40 years it would suddenly become rare and valuable, if it were actually worth something in the first place, it could then be worth quite a lot , and receive rose coloured praises from writers who actually never drove one in the first place. That said, I'm not sure how vehicles of today will fair in the future especially if say in another 40 years there's no such thing as petrol/diesel, or that if there is, it would be absolutely horrendous cost per litre. A while ago I bought a Ford Explorer and had it converted to LPG, it drove superbly was extremely reliable and did everything and more that a full size 4x4 could be expected to do. After 9 years and 80,000 the timing chain broke and ruined the engine (and people worry about timing belts). I could of rebuilt the engine, but at that age and mileage it really wasn't worth it, so it went to the great recycler in the sky, mainly because there were many 4x4 alternatives around, most giving as much performance and better economy that an old 'exploder'. However for me the point is that I'm unaware of any suitable replacement for my Stow n Go (as and when it gives up the ghost), hence I will keep mine going as long as is practicable. When it does die I'm not sure what its replacement will be, and I can't really think of any new or vintage which could even come close to it. What else can be used as a large comfortable car one minute, a van the next, and take a full load on a 600 mile trip at 80mph and still touch 30mpg ? 40 years ago you didn't worry much about car electrics as the bodywork was going to rust away long before that ever become a problem
    2 points
  26. jonnyjeep

    U140E

    Sorry, should have posted this in the problems page. Next time I will...promise Anyway, if anyone was wondering what the solution was to code U140E....it was indeed down to a long term flat battery. Took the car to 'D.Salmon' in Colchester today & they sorted it out within an hour. They re-flashed the PCM, took it for a test drive & all sorted. I've got to admit that I have always been a bit wary of main dealers, but 'D.Salmon' were the only place in Essex that I could find that were still servicing Chryslers & still had Starscan/Wi-Tech & the knowhow to use it. They have now changed my opinion of main dealers. They were absolutely fantastic & the guy doing the job really did know what he was doing, he was a real pro & so much more knowledgeable than every local garage/mechanic that looked at it & said.."it's the ABS pump mate ! " The price was £99 (inc VAT) & I suppose that also includes the one off £35 pass to Techauthority for access to the Chrysler database, so that's not a bad price. After four months of owning a Chrysler 300C with no ABS, ESP, Cruise control etc & not having the software to fix it (I thought I did when I bought it, but I was wrong), it's nice to finally find a main dealer (open after the lockdown has lifted) that still has the tech to service Chryslers.
    2 points
  27. MikeyRules

    Lowest Price Yet?

    Yeah agree re-the 100k miles, but unfortunately consumers generally still regard the 100k mark as past its sell by date. However out of date that perception might be given how micro engine tolerances and efficiencies are now. Plus how many we see with plus £250k becoming more common. But It's not for me unfortunately as it breaks a few of my trade buying rules having once bought and sold Italian cars... I never buy light coloured cars, as generally dark metallic's look and sell better, so Essex white handbags I'll leave to you Neil! Secondly one too many owners, as most traders like me stop at 3 unless banger money...and 60k miles is my other threshold too.
    2 points
  28. Hi guys & gals. First time owner of a Chrysler. Brought a 2007 Grand Voyager Executive CRD auto 84’000 miles 4 months ago. Learnt a lot from the forum before joining today. Already done the button mod. Thanks leedsman. Really enjoying ownership so far. Nice big barge to drive. When I brought the car it had a Exide EB741 battery on (unknown age but looked old), worked fine till it got cold. Decided to buy a RedTop. Mistake. Yes it had great cranking power, but drained heavily when not used for a couple of days. I borrowed a high tech amp meter which recorded over a long weekend of no use. Car was only drawing minimal ma consistently. Yet my battery tester had it down to 40% charge. When I charge the RedTop up to 100% and leave disconnected, it retains charge. Apparently the self discharge when connected is common on these red tops. Quality is not what they used to be. In the end gave up and brought a Advanced 096R XD battery for £80 delivered. This battery is perfect. No self discharge and plenty of power to spin the crd over on cold mornings. Volt meter reads 12.8v after leaving all weekend. Result. Sorry for the long first post, but wanted to share my experience. I like to do my own servicing and repairs, and pretty handy with electrics and fault finding on management systems. Hope I can contribute to the forum as much as it’s helped me already. Paul.
    2 points
  29. Gafis

    Springs

    Just change Chrysler Delta coil springs. Fitted with no problems. KYB RH6389 rear KYB RH3908 front. Fits 100%
    2 points
  30. Birima

    Advise On Steering Issue

    Hi Guys, A little late but never too late. For future readers and reference I let you know that my problem has been solved. Despite her perfect looks when bought, the car needed som serious maintenance like rubbers and control arm included cam belt change and tires (Pirelli's). The strange 'spaces' if felt when steering have disappeared. Cheers
    2 points
  31. Thanks for the kind words. A non-nav petrol SR in white with the black roof was my preference, then with Peterborough being not too far from Norwich it all lined up. I do think it is a tad pricey & he won't budge on that but there aren't many about & the mileage is probably one of the lowest to be found I suppose. Not that that's a priority for me but I appreciate it does affect valuations. And I guess he has to pay to register & MOT it, which no doubt I will be covering! I've looked through your thread about Lancia badging which looks great; yours plus I think nearly all of the SRs I've seen have the dark alloys but on this one they are just silver. Perhaps because it is white, I don't know? I also don't know which centre caps to go for, I've seen on here people saying they're specific to size but the 17" do usually seem to be darker. I have headrests, airbag, rear & side badges but I held off wheel caps & grille until I knew what car I was getting (if it had been a dark colour I'd have gone for the Momo grille), as it is I think it'll be the 'waterfall' grille & the light silver caps I've not come across yet!
    2 points
  32. Enjoy the car, it looks an absolute belter. I'm not keen on white cars, but the Delta just seems to suit it, especially with the black roof.
    2 points
  33. Well everybody finally sorted the oil pressurs out it was a new faulty oil switch put on oil gauge and a new switch oil is running at 2 bays hot and 5 bar hot so it is all good. So now for led head lights trying some new ones out there called slimline leds they gave the same pattern as the original but brighter and it goes on.
    2 points
  34. Rich

    User Manuals

    Hi I've uploaded the ones I've found online to my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c0wtebrlqv5hbce/AAAb0jWqmIvgrciDuA8nVZu9a?dl=0 Cheers Rich
    2 points
  35. QinteQ

    Front Strut

    - used a capable M18 + big battery, lotsa high rothenburger gas, black grade socket and a scafee bar over a 1 yard snap on bar, did it but it was a pig, even with 5 spring compressors couldn't get them down so i had to borrow a foot operated automotive hydraulic commercial spring compressor,you would never know / see how bad they were till you completely disassemble !
    2 points
  36. bignev

    Air Con Broken - Advice Please

    Oh just a bit of info chaps, the body of the diesel steering pump is the same - I've had both on my bench - but with a different pulley and inlet pipe connection. The pipe is easy enough to get off and swap, but the pulley is a completely different matter - ruddy impossible without the correct tools. Rock Auto USA will sell you the body for a lot less than we can get them over here!!
    2 points
  37. Dorian

    Delta Active Suspension

    Done! :-) http://i63.tinypic.com/b533o0.jpg
    2 points
  38. Hi Bex, As Andy's list, the very common one is the fuel filter housing cracking, or a slightly iffy O ring seal.
    2 points
  39. mikebh8

    Identifying Relays.

    Try to find your model in the link below. It is a manual with pictures and detailed texts which I found very useful. http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/
    2 points
  40. Nello

    Delta Lancia Badging

    Well done DeltaDrew - and welcome - whereabouts are you based? Looks much better
    2 points
  41. vausey

    Egr Heat Exchanger

    For the benefit of anyone else who has the egr heat exchanger cover fail... I can confirm that the Vauxhall part 55590953 is identical and has been working a treat for the past couple of weeks with nearly 400 miles covered since it was fitted and absolutely no issues whatsoever. Quite pleased it only cost me £30 delivered.
    2 points
  42. Andrewgrale

    Clock Display

    How do we know that he doesn't ???? ;-) Like the Punto and power steering system failure.. usually follows a clutch change . . The engine earth is more of a culprit than the actual power steering Just cos he died after his breakfast, doesn't mean that it was the breakfast that killed him !!!
    2 points
  43. DRL ordered today, €220 delivered :-D
    2 points
  44. 2 points
  45. richjharris

    Delta Lancia Badging

    Just wanted to thank Nello for his instructions on how to replace the front grill and yes, I know this post is getting quite old now. We've got two Delta's - a Volcanic Black Momo 'S' model and my white SR, both 1.6TD. I found a grill on eBay Italy but the guy wouldn't ship it to the UK for some reason. (He also ignored the messages that I sent him), so I got it shipped to a friend in Germany who kindly shipped it to us. Yesterday we took the front bumper off the S and replaced it with the Lancia grill, then moved the Momo grill to my SR. The grill wasn't cheap, it was 199 Euro. Also the back Lancia badge was another 22 Euro. The right hand side, underneath the car is a total pain in the arse because its got plastic screws which hold a cover in place. The rest of it was fairly simple. The first bumper took about an hour and a half as we were learning on the job, where as we did my SR in about half that time. I'm not convinced yet by the black grill on my SR, but it does look good on the S. Here's some pics of before and after.
    2 points
  46. Welcome to the site! Yes the pricing especially from dealers can be vastly ranging, seen some for ridiculous money because they had "low" mileage. We've had 3 and not seen any rot, but ours are all 2002 / 2005. All our we're petrol, on LPG, so not had many of the running problems of the diesels. I changed the wheels on 2 of ours, porous on one and scabby on the other!! Try the PCD checker website as a backup. Yep the central locking motors can be a problem, bu they cost pennies to fix. If your family is growing and you are using buggies - you WILL notice the difference to the Grand, our twins buggy wouldn't fit in the shorter Voyager with the rear seats slid to the back. Handbrake not holding - yes got that, so I park it in "Park" it clunks when i comes out on hills, other than that not a worry for me. In 12 months and 11,000 miles a set of new 18" Accelera 245 50 PHI R wore by 1mm on the back from 8mm centre 7mm outers. No they are not the same depth all the way across I measured brand new ones.The fronts were down to 2mm so I replaced them, for more Accelera's. Top front suspension mounts - yep fairly common, but is that because we talk about it and other car sites don't as it's an easier / less expensive fix so just gets done? Wiper stalk problems, I've had the indicator not self cancelling on one of our cars. Got a brand new pattern unit recently for £28.00, and 20 minute to replace it. No problems as yet! with the lights. They are super things to drive, we also now have a 2007 Ford Galaxy Ghia with loads of toys, panoramic roof etc, but the Grand Voyager is a much nicer "posher" car (and in petrol / LPG silky smooth), and he Ford is far from fault free!!!!
    2 points
  47. Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.
    2 points
  48. here is a link that has all years and models in PDF format, just pick the one for your car and download/save I got mine from here http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/ hope this helps
    2 points
  49. Inja

    Delta Lancia Badging

    HI All, very interested in possibly re badging mine but has any one check to see if this is legal in UK as with a new badge etc it will not agree with DVLA information held by them.
    2 points
  50. Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM. 5w 30 fully synthetic oil is recommended for your 2.8. Alan
    2 points
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