ryden

All the info you'll need below: - 
 
http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1441-how-much-antifreeze-do-i-need/
 
https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/hoat-coolant-22894/

Chrysler stipulate using only one battery instead of two ( ill dig it up from the manual when i get home) but I couldn't really comment on why.
 
Not to long back I had a few issues regarding the fob locking/ unlocking and it working at different distances. Turned out to be the battery - well that's all i changed and it fixed my problems.
 
Haha, yeah I've heard about that trick. Apparently there is method to the madness, regarding that trick. 

I put my hands up to that as well nev! 

Hi Legons and welcome.
 
You wont regret getting the Chrysler, such a versatile vehicle!
 
This link might help you http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/428-manual-workshop-manuals/but between everyone on here, you're covered id say!  
 You'll find with your model that the bench only reclines, it doesn't fold in on itself like the older models - a bit annoying to say the least! 

I think it's just for the auto dim mirror to stop headlight glare

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions.
Just to re-cap.
no codes, drives normally, but under hard acceleration hesitation and engine shutdown.
yesterday I cleaned the MAP pressure sensor, after cleaning it felt that the engine starts a little better.
This morning I done a test drive (best to do while it is cold as it will ask for more fuel).
I run from 1st to 4th to about 3500-4000 rpm, there were a couple slight hestitations, but that's all, engine did not cut out.
So I feel quiet confident that this was part of the problem (clogged up pressure and temp sensor).
I will now regulary check if the small hesitations will go away or not. If not I will buy a new sensor.
Also will check fuel filter and housing etc.

Noticed one had nouchy gears but that was due to the clutch bitting at the top.
Left that car alone as not had a service in 50k miles.
I don't want an auto as I don't like them much prefer to change gear when I want to.
 
I sold my car yesterday (sat afternoon) so need a car now and no matter what other cars I'm getting told to look at like a (cough cough) Kia Sedona err the Chrysler voyager for the looks of MPV's look far nicer
 
Nearly every car I've had I've tastefully modified mostly cosmetic i.e. Lower and alloys. My plans when I get one is just to make the car mine. By changing the wheels once what ever tyres on get worn. This car once I have one is just a family bus for daily duties I'll be getting another VR6 vw as a toy once my and my misses are married.
 
Cars are under my skin and have been since I was a kid. I feel if you don't look back at your car when walking away you have bought the wrong car. Also look after it better too.

Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed? If a while ago, it may be restricted under load, if recently, it may be drawing air as it's not tight enough. 

Think yours is at the rear, next to the fuel tank. Unplug the wiring and check for damage as well, which might point to a crack in the housing, which will allow air into the fuel system. 

Remove the filter bowl as well, to check there's not two sealing o-rings in there too. 

Quick and easy check, if even just to discount it. 


 

Welcome to the site!
 
Yes the pricing especially from dealers can be vastly ranging, seen some for ridiculous money because they had "low" mileage.
 
We've had 3 and not seen any rot, but ours are all 2002 / 2005.
 
All our we're petrol, on LPG, so not had many of the running problems of the diesels.
 
I changed the wheels on 2 of ours, porous on one and scabby on the other!! Try the PCD checker website as a backup.
 
Yep the central locking motors can be a problem, bu they cost pennies to fix.
 
If your family is growing and you are using buggies - you WILL notice the difference to the Grand, our twins buggy wouldn't fit in the shorter Voyager with the rear seats slid to the back.
 
Handbrake not holding - yes got that, so I park it in "Park" it clunks when i comes out on hills, other than that not a worry for me.
 
In 12 months and 11,000 miles a set of new 18" Accelera 245 50 PHI R wore by 1mm on the back from 8mm centre 7mm outers. No they are not the same depth all the way across I measured brand new ones.The fronts were down to 2mm so I replaced them, for more Accelera's.
 
Top front suspension mounts - yep fairly common, but is that because we talk about it and other car sites don't as it's an easier / less expensive fix so just gets done?
 
Wiper stalk problems, I've had the indicator not self cancelling on one of our cars. Got a brand new pattern unit recently for £28.00, and 20 minute to replace it.
 
No problems as yet! with the lights.
 
They are super things to drive, we also now have a 2007 Ford Galaxy Ghia with loads of toys, panoramic roof etc, but the Grand Voyager is a much nicer "posher" car (and in petrol / LPG silky smooth), and he Ford is far from fault free!!!!

Different year & car, diagnosis is the same, especially for the  '[ryden #5] comment, everyone thinks spending £1000 of your cash on parts darts is a good idea, first always always ask them have the tested the part, are they sure that component is actually goosed !

birmingham is a little[lot] to far in limp mode!
with regards to diagnosis i have requested the fault code and am waiting on these, the garage is not a speedy gonzales one.

What evidence have they provided to say that the relay selector box is at fault? Just curious.

Hi guys sorry for the delay been off line I've sorted it new map/boost sensor and some 550 miles later all good now. nice easy and cheap to fix 10 minutes.    Thanks all for the reply's.

Its not very clear admittedly, but it is on top of the engine/manifold. Also im referencing a 2003 2.5crd GV engine.
 
I have inserted a photo with the w/shop manual image to allow cross reference. 
 

Above is the location of the sensor in question. it will be held in place with a cap head bolt.
 
Any sort of contact cleaner will do the job, but i recommend spraying onto your choice of cloth/rag and not directly ( unless its an electrical contact cleaner)
 
Also if you need: Link to a picture of the sensor http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-706862199-sensor-presso-map-bosch-0281002845-ducato-23-apos-09-iveco-_JM

Did it!!
Excellent video andyb2000 thanks!
I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant.
I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types.
I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8.  It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type.  I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter.
It works a treat!  
Thanks all for your help.

robthemuso and ryden, thanks so much for the information!  I've picked up a thermostat and will hopefully get the chance to fit it this weekend!
I'll follow up to let you know how it goes.

If interested here's the link regarding fitting the second in-line thermostat as rob mentioned above.
 
http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/fitting-second-thermostat-20480/
 
Also someones done a vid now - http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/fitting-second-thermostat-guide-26641/

Ah ok.
 
Not sounding good then - if it was "overcharging on tickover" then it would seem that there is some other source of the problem.
 
In my old world experience, alternators never failed to an over rated output - they packed up as a winding went, so no output.
 
However - stuff and technology move on.......

As above, same experience pretty much.
  Also if it helps, my thread for roughly the same issue - http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1067-hard-acceleration-causing-eml-to-come-on/

A very recent fault this one on here and we seem to have narrowed it down to the Turbo Actuator. What's happening is the actuator operates the waste gate on the turbo and whether the actuator diaphragm is goosed or the hose to it from boost side of turbo is blocked with carbon, the Waste Gate is not operating. So hence we have over boost on booting it, ECU operates the management light, power is reduced and code P0235/7 is recorded. P0069 is probably over boost pressure. Sounds too good to be true but hope it works for you. If not record your answer on here. I have same problem at moment but working on it is a problem. Mine started shutting down quite recently but a new boost/temp sensor sorted that out. The problem is getting an Actuator as their normally sold with a turbo.

I have had P0235 for ages now. Yes Boost pressure related.

While you checked the voltage at the sensors did you manage to check the condition of the speed sensor rings?
 
One of mine was duff and did the same as yours are doing now.
 
I pulled the fuse till I replaced the shaft with ring, and obvioulsy have full braking, but no anti lock function - way better to have brakes!!!

You don't need to shut down engine and restart to clear the fault and light. When limp mod comes on just lift foot off accelerator slightly and it will keep going, full power returns in about 30 seconds. It's a b#gger when you want to accelerate past another car, but it can be done, just don't boot it so hard.