bignev

flip sake, thought it was just me.
Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

First off it's worth a try at removing the "IOD" fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay, left side wing (drivers side on LHD - of yours is of course!).
 
Leave it out for 20 to 30 minutes and it might just reset things for you!
 
Or disconnect the battery instead, or afterwards if the first doesn't work!

Hi and thanks for ur help everyone sorry it's been a while only I am disabled and I haven't been very well and able to do anything to the car just had to concentrate on getting better again. It all turned out to be a leaky diesel filter, at the bottom it had no rubber seal inside the electrical cap that screws to the bottom of the filter hence the low pressure cos when u crank it the diesel leaks out, so much for the RAC it's been off the road since November all for the sake of a new diesel filter which cost about £12. Put a new one on and its back to normal, once again thanks everyone.

Hi all, 
 
I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. 
 
The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. 
 
You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. 
 
I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. 
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0
 
 
Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more. 
 
 
 
 
 

Ok
 
It seams to work after reseting of the module.
 
To reset it you need to disconect positive lead from batterry for 10min.
 
I hava also checked IOD fuse (M13) and give it a clean.
 
Aparemtly it is the software failour and it happens now anf them.

Hello all
Just an insight into my saga.
One of my front top bushes collapsed, so I thought I would replace my self, being a mechanic I thought no problem.
 
Oh my f#@*ing god......how wrong I was.
 
The problem....... compressing the spring.
 
I have a professional tool that couldn't do the job.
 
I went to several other garages to see if their tool could do the job, and they couldn't, and some said they wouldn't try as the car had developed a reputation of dangerous/stay clear of concerning these springs.
 
Finally I found a garage that worked on vans and mini buses who was willing to give it a go........ 40mins later ..... he said omg ...... he had never come across a spring as bad to do as mine.
 
Seriously !!!!! I can't believe it.
 
Car still not finished as ive had enough.
 
There is no value in my comments today but equally if I found a comment like mine.... I would of purchased a complete assembly, of which I've seen for sale and spared myself the heart ache.
 
I did think at the time a false economy to buy complete assembled strut but I know better now.

As long as it is thin enough to flow at low temperatures and thick enough to perform satisfactorily at high temperatures where you live. 6L of 5W30 will perform correctly up to -25 degrees C and in 75 big round years of driving I've never seen those temps. Manky filter-change it !

I've double checked mine and the revs drop only slightly, maintaining some level of engine braking. As well as keeping the engine / gearbox speeds close so when you get back on the pedal there isn't a physical impact as the drive takes up again.
Fairly sure all 3 of my petrols have done the same. And it's the same 41TE gearbox as yours.

After a brief stint with a C4 Grand Picasso. I picked up my new Grand Voyager 07 plate today!
I had the standard Voyager before (a Y reg) so this is a huge upgrade both on stature and in terms of features.
 
I'm glad to be back part of this great forum!

Problem solved!
 
I went out today to take a look at that 3rd relay, and unfortunately those 3 relays are all for the fans.To my surprise though, while I was fiddling in that area, I found another relay hanging loose that I assume had come off the crossmember and was tucked away where I couldn't see it underneath the battery area. Nowhere, in any of the manuals & documentation I've found, is this relay mentioned at all and if I hadn't been pulling on the loom for more slack I would never have known it was there. I checked the colour coding of the wires, and it matched the wiring I expected for the TC Relay. This relay is the same type as the other 3 for the fans, so I swapped one of those over with the TC Relay, giving all the contacts a good clean in the process. I cleared all the codes with a borrowed ODBII tool, and I'm back to all 4 gears again. I've done around 20 miles and made sure all 4 gears are kicking in so I'm happy that my problem's solved. Thought I'd post this up here in case it helps any others with the same problem. 

Hi All,
 
I bought my first Chrysler for my birthday around 8 months ago, a 2007 Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD, and I have to say I like it. I've got through a lot of company motors in the past and I've worked for a couple of car / van sales firms too so I've driven many different types of vehicles over the years. I'm a big lad, so while cars have more comforts than a van, I've always enjoyed the size of a transit / sprinter, the GV seems to be the perfect mix between a van & a car. Added to the comfort is the convenience of being able to fit 8 x 4 sheets in the back and I can take the whole family on a jolly, I'm more than happy with the motor. 
 
It was in reasonably good condition when I bought it, it had a few problems, knocking noise on the front passenger suspension, I indicate right, the car sometimes indicates left, stow & go seats were sticking, pop out cup holders were broken, I've repaired all the little problems with the help of my 3d printer and the ever trusty WD40 but just recently I've been introduced to the engine light & "limp mode." That's what brought me here.
 
I don't want to post my problems in the newbie section though, especially as my first message, that would be a bit rude I'll browse the forum for a while to see if there's any existing info and if not, will post up a more detailed bit of info in the relevant section. I'm sure it will be an interesting read to see what others have experienced with their GV's in the UK
 
 

I have a voyager (not grand) with electric sliding doors 4th gen

Recently bought a super 300C with low mileage.  An enthusiastic passenger pressed all the buttons in response to a question on a different topic.   Result .....  Everything is now in French.  The manual is no help as nothing is listed under language.   Please ..... how can I be English again?  I'm not a mechanic.... in fact I'm an 81yrs old lady with mobility problems (until I start driving and all else is forgotten).  Can you guide me through the process of changing to English?

Yes pal very good chance lots of stuff will interchange!
 
Depends what you're after achieving, but take a look on moparwholesaleparts.com and rockauto.com for some info.

I had a bit of a brainwave - I decided to look on ebay for 2.5CRD gearboxes and found the attached photo.
It shows the orientation of the 3 bolts that need to be undone.
 
From that, I had another look at the diagram. I realised that I had misidentified the 3 bolts - the diagram only shows 2 of the bolts, but if you trace the dotted line down from one of them, it splits into 2 locations. 
 
I think I'll use a length of old exhaust pipe to direct some air from a heat gun onto the bolts and then use another length on my ratchet to get a bit more torque onto the offending bolts.

Another update this weekend...

Just had a quick look and a pair of brand new headlights can be had from rockauto.com from under £100 delivered in 4 to 5 days.

Just had a quick look and a pair of brand new headlights can be had from rockauto.com from under £100 delivered in 4 to 5 days.

Hi guys!
i got round to swapping the actuator today, while doing a couple of other bits like some exhaust repair paste on a hole in the middle silencer, hoping to get a bit longer out of it because as it's a stow n go I haven't yet found an aftermarket one (can find diesel ones).
 
I can get a stainless steel one made & fitted fairly locally but am reluctant to spend money on the ungrateful sod of a machine.
Put a new radiator on in the middle of November then the ignition coil goes one week later, at only 4 months old. I sent it back and got a refund no problem, just ruddy mither. New coil from the States in 2 days!
 
Then changed the front drop links as one end of the nearside has gone, and noisy, significantly, after only 18 months. They were bought from Jeep Chrysler parts who are pretty good, so that was disappointing. But an easy job.
 
So anyway I would guess you have done yours by now! Hey @@CJE ! Give a reply how it went?!
But for others the removal of the door card is a Philips screw in the recessed handle / "ash tray" at the top of the door, pop off the surround for the rubber bumper, then start at the bottom and (loudly!) pop off the door card, raise it over the locking knob, release from the upper window surround and it's away.
It has a heavy plastic sheet behind this, and a polystyrene block, presumably for a bit of noise insulation.
A little torx screw to release the actuator from the door, slide forward a little, release the door knob rod from the clip on the actuator, remove the electrical connector and you're away.
Refitting is not simply a reversal as you need to ensure the arc of the arm on the actuator is situated on the little barrel that is part of the door closer cinch motor, otherwise it won't disable this when "locked" and the opener button will operate. And it's hidden well, but isn't hugely difficult to feel for.
 
The actuators are the same both sides, but the arm is handed. The ones I have bought came with both arms each time.

Hi I i'll found some led head light bulbs that work in the voyager at a reasonable cost they are Q1 H7 and H9 cost £12 and cheaper and will not blind other road users and mot friendly have fitted two sets so far with good results you can buy on ebay now.Jeff

Welcome aboard!
 
They are pretty jolly good aren't they!! When they're not messing you about......

I haven't got a sat nav but I suppose the old fashioned way of mile posts on a motorway and stop watch. Only worried due when going past speed cameras.

Ok it turned out to be the panhard rod bushers and the rod was loose at the floor mounting so just check the bolts on the panhard rod now and again.

Hi there,
 
It's probably my video you've found:
https://youtu.be/MpfQLsWLiic
 
It's based on a mod not by myself but others on the .com forum, many people have done it in the past and on this forum so if you search you'll find many people that have done it. Worked great and haven't seen any negative issues raised by anyone so far on it.
 
Hope it does the trick, getting to the original thermostat has been done (several people) but I've never managed it myself, access was just too difficult as tried several times from top and bottom and couldn't get to the bolts to sufficiently undo.

Try a sat nav you will know for sure.

Hi there!
Have you confirmed it by swapping another relay around ?
It's quite possible I have a spare as I bought the whole IPM last year while investigating a fault, but I'm working away and not back till Thursday 17th.
I can check when I get back for you!